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Silencing the rig, recommodations on parts needed

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Hello OCN members,


It's been about 3 years since I built my current system. Even though I am still very pleased with it, it is running short on multiple levels.

With this thread I would like to list what I plan on doing and asking you for any form of advice!
The main objectives I want to achieve with building a complete new system is getting a top-end, slightly overclocked system as silent as possible.


My current system as stated in my Signature is running short on a few things. Let me make a quick list;
- PCI-E Lanes.
In a week I'll have 2 780GTX overclocked, and an NVS450 for the remaining monitors. The Sandy Bridge only has 16 lanes. Clearly this isn't enough to get the full potential out of my system.
- RAM
I am highly interested in running a large RAM disk to run games and apps off of. This would mean I'd be looking at about 64gb ram for a game like Battlefield 4. This again, the Sandy Bridge doesn't support.
- S-ata 600
There simply aren't enough connectors for S-ata 600.

The above I want to solve with getting a Haswell-E.

- New casing.
The casing I have right now doesn't fit the hardware I plan on purchasing. I need a bigger case. I want to mount the 360 radiator inside the case, fans on the bottom of the radiator for noise reasons, and put a 240 in the front. this of course with low RPM Fans of less than 1k rpm.
I want to stuff the entire casing with Dynamat as a base, and over that paste as much sound absorber as possible. If I keep the fans inside that means most of that sound gets damped.

I want a casing that isn't too large, will fit all my hardware + as much sound absorber as possible and looks sleek. Personally I fancy the Fractical Design R2 XL just to give an example.
Recommodations on what casing material to use for perfect damping would be great!


- New PSU
Personally I don't think that the AX850 will cut it for 2 overclocked 780's, a third gpu and an overclocked Haswell-E.

Ax1200? Something Seasonic? whichever comes best out of the test I guess.


- *Least important* DVI or DP connectors.
The NVS450 is nice. I mean, I get to connect all U2211H's, it's passive cooled, doesn't need additional power, is 1 slot and leaves the 780's power for my main monitor and projector. However, the card isn't fast enough. Quite a few apps like MadVR, Aegisub and Mocha just to name a few, lag.

I would be looking at replacing this card if there is a good alternative. In this case i would be looking at a 650 or higher. These aren't passive cooled, and I want it passive cooled for silence. I would either need to make it passive cooled, or get one watercooled. This would result in either putting a cpu and 3 gpus in one loop, or building 2 seperate loops. Neither of those are very good options. I really don't know what to do with this...


- Currently I am using 1/2 OD hose with barbs. Should I switch to smaller hosing and/or Compression fittings? I really don't care about the looks, just whichever works better and is safer to use.
- I am still using my old MCP655. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it. However, would I be better off with a 355 with custom top/res or is this still fine?
- I would love some sort of PCB that would turn down or even off some of the fans when the system is cold / idle, and lowers the pump speed. I have seem some devices that can do exactly that, but I am quite unsure what would be good.



That's about all I have in mind for a new build. It will take some time before I can start building simply because Haswell-E isn't released yet, but I like to plan ahead.

All the comments and help is much appreciated!
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post #2 of 9
The XL R2 is a good case for a silent build. Although you won' able to fit a 360 on top without any modification.

A 1200 watt PSU would be suffice for your build.

Is The 655 a vario? If it is, your fine with a CPU and 2 GPU blocks.

I've Used the Lamptron to ramp up my fans depending on the temp of the probes. That's one way of doing it.

Or you can use a swiftech PWM splitter and use PWM fans. Just don't use the SP120 PWM fans. They have issues with using those splitter.
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post #3 of 9
Ya might wanna take a look at my siggie..... my system pretty much follows yours almost to a tee. While the box's primary use is AutoCAD, that runs much better on GeForce cards than Workstation cards so I have no need for the NVS450.

Case / PSU / Fans - The Enthoo Primo walked away from Comdex with a Case of the Year award and I couldn't agree more. Very easy WC case .... comes with $100 worth of superb fans, vibration isolated pump mounts, unmatched cable routing / hiding features, an 11 fan PCB controller and more...... for the PSU, I had hoped to go with a HX850 as it ha better voltage stability and lower ripple than thr AX versions, but I wanted a bit more headroom given the dual pumps..... The Seasonic X-1250 was my choice ..... most it's pulled from the wall so far is 685 watts tho. The Primo comes with five superb fans right at the top of SPCR's performance / noise ratio listing. For your rig, I'd order 3 more..... I went with three new LED models on the top and moved the top one top the bottom. Here's how I will be covering my fan control as of next month when I add the 3rd PCB (right now have 5 case fans on one and 5 rad fans on other):

MoBo Header CPU => Pump No. 1
MoBo Header CPU_OPT => Pump No. 2

MoBo Header CHA_1 => Phanteks PCB_1 +> (6) Phanteks SP140s on XT45-420 in P/P
MoBo Header CHA_2 => Phanteks PCB_2 +> (4) Phanteks SP140s on UT60-280 in P/P
MoBo Header CHA_3 => Phanteks PCB_3 +> (5) Phanteks SP140s as Case fans

The Phanteks PCB takes a EITHER a PWM or Variable Voltage signal to control 3 pin variable voltage fans. I control all of them with FanXpert2 maintaining speeds from 325 - 850 rpm (1250 is max). System is dead quiet at up to about 900 rpm.

Block's - EK WB's on the GPUs. Koolance 380i on the LGA 2011 CPUs / EK Supremacy on SB / IB / HW


Rads - A 360 + 240 is a little short for twin 780s and a Has-E. I had planned on a XT45-420 (Top)+ UT60-280 (Bottom) in push / pull but held off buying the 5 extra fans until I could gauge the performance in push only. I am seeing 12.8C w/ fan speed limited to 850 rpm, at 1250 rpm, I'm at 8.4C with filters out. I'll add the 5 pull fans when Phanteks starts selling the PCBs as an accessory (reportedly this week).


Pump - This is a must have PC, one I can't afford to have down while I wait 3 weeks for a pump RMA exchange. So I went with the 35x2 W/ heatsink and fan. Two reasons, w/ 2 pumps I can run at half speed lowering noise greatly and if one breaks, I can stay up and running on the 2nd one. Putting the GPUs in parallel, you'd have no issues whatsoever with the 35x2.

Res - If ya get the Enthoo, the Res bracket is one of it's best features. You can do SLI with the 780s (at least w/ the DCII's) w/ EKs "Clean" WB which is an inch shorter than their other full cover blocks.....cards < 10.6" work fine .... bigger ones require a slight mod to the bracket. The EK Res3-250 works nicely.
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 3/23/14 at 4:09pm
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post #4 of 9
Quick tip for silencing your rig.

Search ebay for "sound deadener"
There'll be plenty of results for automotive sound deandening sheets. Its shiny on one side and black w/ adhesive on the other side.
These things are meant to stop car panels from making a ton of vibration noise.
A 1'x1' sample sheet costs like 5 bucks.
These sheets are also really thin, which was a requirement for me.

I grabbed one from GTMat on Ebay and I attached it to the sides of my dual bay reservoir, it does a good job of dampening the vibrations from the D5 pump. Doesnt kill the vibrations completely (I can still feel it if I put my hand on top of my case) but it definitely helped with the noise.

You can chop up the sheet however you want and find plenty of uses for it.
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post #5 of 9
How much are you looking to spend on this whole upgrade? Also, have you considered Ivy-e since its out right now instead of getting something that might be out soon, might not be?
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post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by PandaSPUR View Post

Quick tip for silencing your rig.

Search ebay for "sound deadener"
There'll be plenty of results for automotive sound deandening sheets. Its shiny on one side and black w/ adhesive on the other side.
These things are meant to stop car panels from making a ton of vibration noise.
A 1'x1' sample sheet costs like 5 bucks.
These sheets are also really thin, which was a requirement for me.

I grabbed one from GTMat on Ebay and I attached it to the sides of my dual bay reservoir, it does a good job of dampening the vibrations from the D5 pump. Doesnt kill the vibrations completely (I can still feel it if I put my hand on top of my case) but it definitely helped with the noise.

You can chop up the sheet however you want and find plenty of uses for it.

The Lamptron CW611 would be a much better choice than PWM based fan control.
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post #7 of 9
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the replies!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsmack View Post

The XL R2 is a good case for a silent build. Although you won' able to fit a 360 on top without any modification.
That won't be a problem. As long as I am able to fix it on top with cutting a space for it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsmack View Post

A 1200 watt PSU would be suffice for your build.
Alright.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsmack View Post

Is The 655 a vario? If it is, your fine with a CPU and 2 GPU blocks.
It is yeah. Just wondering whether the 355 would be a better choice due to the better performance with a lot of restriction.
The blocks I'll be using are EK, so those are supposedly "highflow".
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsmack View Post

I've Used the Lamptron to ramp up my fans depending on the temp of the probes. That's one way of doing it.
I have a scythe right now. It sucks... The temperature sensors were on the same place yet reading different values and fluctuating 5 degrees in a few seconds, lol...The key thing would be to have the controller inside and fully adjusts itself from the (correct) temperature readings for example. The system turning itself down when idle, that would be perfect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsmack View Post

Or you can use a swiftech PWM splitter and use PWM fans. Just don't use the SP120 PWM fans. They have issues with using those splitter.
I am not sure if there are any better fans than the Gentle Typhoons yet(?) but my choice will be those if that isn't the case. I've grown to like those.


__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

While the box's primary use is AutoCAD, that runs much better on GeForce cards than Workstation cards so I have no need for the NVS450.
The NVS450 is purely to support the additional screens. All 4 connectors are dedicated to the U2211H's, as soon as someone will sell me a 4th that is...
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

Case / PSU / Fans - The Enthoo Primo walked away from Comdex with a Case of the Year award and I couldn't agree more. Very easy WC case .... comes with $100 worth of superb fans, vibration isolated pump mounts, unmatched cable routing / hiding features, an 11 fan PCB controller and more......
That sounds very good. Though, it has a sidewindow. I was looking at a closed case to paste it full with sound killing material, so that'd be a shame of the casing. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

for the PSU, I had hoped to go with a HX850 as it ha better voltage stability and lower ripple than thr AX versions, but I wanted a bit more headroom given the dual pumps..... The Seasonic X-1250 was my choice ..... most it's pulled from the wall so far is 685 watts tho.
I've never done a reading since I don't own a device to measure watts or amperes used, so I'm unsure what the amount of power would be it consumes. Though, if I were to look at let's say an AX1200 or Seasonic with 1000+ watts and the system not using more than ~700 as you stated, that would mean that the fan pretty much never has to spin up, resulting in more silence.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

Rads - A 360 + 240 is a little short for twin 780s and a Has-E. I had planned on a XT45-420 (Top)+ UT60-280 (Bottom) in push / pull but held off buying the 5 extra fans until I could gauge the performance in push only. I am seeing 12.8C w/ fan speed limited to 850 rpm, at 1250 rpm, I'm at 8.4C with filters out. I'll add the 5 pull fans when Phanteks starts selling the PCBs as an accessory (reportedly this week).
I was thinking of doing a pump > cpu > fat 240 rad (like double the fatness of a normal rad if those work properly with low rpm fans) > gpu1 & gpu2 > 360 > res > pump. Would that be too little for a slightly overclocked rig? I usually set chips to their max safe voltage as stated by the manufactuer and don't go further than that, so the heat isn't quite that bad I'd suppose? A double 360 would suffice?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

Pump - So I went with the 35x2 W/ heatsink and fan. Two reasons, w/ 2 pumps I can run at half speed lowering noise greatly and if one breaks, I can stay up and running on the 2nd one. Putting the GPUs in parallel, you'd have no issues whatsoever with the 35x2.
I've had this pump for about 5 years now, and the owner before me owned it for quite some time as well. Right now it's running fine and the moving parts still look fine as well. Paralell would be a good solution. Though, wouldn't that create more noise and/or possible resonating between the pumps?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

Res - If ya get the Enthoo, the Res bracket is one of it's best features. You can do SLI with the 780s (at least w/ the DCII's) w/ EKs "Clean" WB which is an inch shorter than their other full cover blocks.....cards < 10.6" work fine .... bigger ones require a slight mod to the bracket. The EK Res3-250 works nicely.
I have a 10cm res right now. I don't really find it neccessary to get a huge res. Both GPU's will be getting a full cover nickel/acetal with backplate.
Would I need to replace the Kill Coil? it's almost 4 years old now...


___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by PandaSPUR View Post

Quick tip for silencing your rig. Search ebay for "sound deadener"There'll be plenty of results for automotive sound deandening sheets. Its shiny on one side and black w/ adhesive on the other side. These things are meant to stop car panels from making a ton of vibration noise. A 1'x1' sample sheet costs like 5 bucks. These sheets are also really thin, which was a requirement for me.
Yeah, I personally used that stuff to damp a few components in my car. The stuff I used is dynamat, which is a brand really, it's the same exact stuff. Atop of that I'd be looking at putting even more sound killers if possible though, to get the maximum silence.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PandaSPUR View Post

I grabbed one from GTMat on Ebay and I attached it to the sides of my dual bay reservoir, it does a good job of dampening the vibrations from the D5 pump. Doesnt kill the vibrations completely (I can still feel it if I put my hand on top of my case) but it definitely helped with the noise. You can chop up the sheet however you want and find plenty of uses for it.
I was thinking of maybe constructing something myself, that I could suspend the Pump in mid-air, literally, with elastics (heavy duty woven ones).


___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADHDadditiv View Post

How much are you looking to spend on this whole upgrade?
Not really relevant. I have enough to get the most expensive if I needed to. I prefer the "best bang for buck" usually though, spending needlessly is just silly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADHDadditiv View Post

Also, have you considered Ivy-e since its out right now instead of getting something that might be out soon, might not be?
I have. It's not that much better than a Sandy-E and the Sandy-E isn't that much better than the Sandy I have right now. Hence why I consider waiting for the Haswell-E, end 2014 recent news said. I am in no hurry right now as it still works fine. It could just... work better!


__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

The Lamptron CW611 would be a much better choice than PWM based fan control.
That looks pretty decent. Though, I have my casing stuffed away under the fairly large desk, so having a front panel controlled one would not be that good of an idea. Ultimately I would want one that adjusts or even turns fans off fully automatically. Either on it's own or by a piece of (decent working) software.
Main PC
(13 items)
 
Asus N75SF
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Hard DriveCoolingMonitorKeyboard
250, 128GB SSD, 12TB NAS Swiftech MCR320 - GT AP-15 Dell U3011, 3x U2211H (wtb 4th), HC5500 > 90" Ducky Shine 2 TKL Blue switch 
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AX850 Lian Li PC9F (silenced by Caseking) Roccat Kone XTD Sphinx Project 10, M1 DAC, Mirage M3-Si, HE-500... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2630QM Asus N75 HM65 GT555M 6 Gig 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
500 Gig Multi DVD drive Windows 7 Ultimate x64 17"  
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Main PC
(13 items)
 
Asus N75SF
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2600k @4,5 1,325v P8P67 Deluxe 2x Asus 780GTX CU-II 1.2ghz, NVS450 Dominators @ 1600 7-8-7-20 
Hard DriveCoolingMonitorKeyboard
250, 128GB SSD, 12TB NAS Swiftech MCR320 - GT AP-15 Dell U3011, 3x U2211H (wtb 4th), HC5500 > 90" Ducky Shine 2 TKL Blue switch 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
AX850 Lian Li PC9F (silenced by Caseking) Roccat Kone XTD Sphinx Project 10, M1 DAC, Mirage M3-Si, HE-500... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2630QM Asus N75 HM65 GT555M 6 Gig 
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post #8 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericie View Post

Thanks for all the replies!

1. The NVS450 is purely to support the additional screens. All 4 connectors are dedicated to the U2211H's, as soon as someone will sell me a 4th that is.

2. That sounds very good. Though, it has a sidewindow. I was looking at a closed case to paste it full with sound killing material, so that'd be a shame of the casing. Thanks for the suggestion though.

3. I've never done a reading since I don't own a device to measure watts or amperes used, so I'm unsure what the amount of power would be it consumes. Though, if I were to look at let's say an AX1200 or Seasonic with 1000+ watts and the system not using more than ~700 as you stated, that would mean that the fan pretty much never has to spin up, resulting in more silence.

4. I was thinking of doing a pump > cpu > fat 240 rad (like double the fatness of a normal rad if those work properly with low rpm fans) > gpu1 & gpu2 > 360 > res > pump. Would that be too little for a slightly overclocked rig? I usually set chips to their max safe voltage as stated by the manufactuer and don't go further than that, so the heat isn't quite that bad I'd suppose? A double 360 would suffice?

5. I've had this pump for about 5 years now, and the owner before me owned it for quite some time as well. Right now it's running fine and the moving parts still look fine as well. Paralell would be a good solution. Though, wouldn't that create more noise and/or possible resonating between the pumps?

6. I have a 10cm res right now. I don't really find it neccessary to get a huge res. Both GPU's will be getting a full cover nickel/acetal with backplate.
Would I need to replace the Kill Coil? it's almost 4 years old now...

7. Yeah, I personally used that stuff to damp a few components in my car. The stuff I used is dynamat, which is a brand really, it's the same exact stuff. Atop of that I'd be looking at putting even more sound killers if possible though, to get the maximum silence. I was thinking of maybe constructing something myself, that I could suspend the Pump in mid-air, literally, with elastics (heavy duty woven ones).

8. That looks pretty decent. Though, I have my casing stuffed away under the fairly large desk, so having a front panel controlled one would not be that good of an idea. Ultimately I would want one that adjusts or even turns fans off fully automatically. Either on it's own or by a piece of (decent working) software.

1. What i was getting at was the workstation vs GeForce card choice ..... obviously ya need something that can do 4 monitors.

2. I don't really see why noise if of any significant concern. Other than a click when I turn on my system, there are no other audible sounds. The Phanteks fans max out at about 1235 rpm....at 850 rpm, which is where I have set the fan curve to to out, they are completely inaudible. The 35x2 pumps are completely inaudible working under their "fan curve". The 35x2 will provide plenty of oomph for your system as planned while remaining completely inaudible.

3. Again, I was speaking tot he difference between the HX and AX series. At 850, the HX is cheaper and superior ti the AX .... at 1000 watts + the HX 1000 and 1050 are dogs so you are left with the more expensive AX series as the only available choice from Corsair. The Seasonic X-1250 is superb but last I looked it was $100 more than it was in October.

4. Again, a fat rad doesn't really have a significant effect on cooling. Here's the results for an Alphacool 420 @ 1250 rpm

30mm - 246 watts
45mm - 250
60mm - 256
86mm - 268

I thot I did a Rad analysis for you.... if I didn't will come back and add.

5. GPU WBs are massive as compared with their CPU counterparts and therefore are far more effective at cooling. Typical GPU temps when gaming are about 38-40C (40-44 when stress testing) while ya don't get concerned about temps until ya break 80C .... OTOH, CPU temps hit mid to hi 60s in gaming (80s when stress testing) .... pretty close to that same 80C which starts to be of concern. So running the GPUs in parallel is of no concern whatsoever flow wise and it also cuts flow restriction by about 62%. agaiun, with 2 or more GPus, I start thinking about running two pumps at half speed, the 35x2 being my own (and martin's) favored solution. And no, ya run the two pumps via PWM of at 50-60% of full speed where they are completely silent.

6. I listed the Res3-250 as it is a 60mm diameter res and the 250 length fits.... of course you could go smaller. But I like the larger thermal mass as it equalizes the heat load under varying loads in typical gaming situations and minimizes fans speed chasing temps under varying loads. I echo the full cover blocks but the acetal versions are longer which can cause fit problems. In the Enthoo....the clean plexi / nickel fits with the bracket in place. The acetal and nickel / plexi w/ the circles version does not.

7. I see no application for thermal material in today's rigs.... back in teh day of 30 fpi rads and 5000 rpm fans, yes. But today, if ya can't hear anything w/o the material, what value does adding it have ? The Seasonic 1250 is dead silent, the pumps are dead silent, the fans are dead silent.

8. I have a fan controller and it is completely redundant. I use it merely to display water temps (Top Rad In / (Top Rad Out / Bot Rad In / (Bot Rad Out / Ambient Air and Case Interior Temp) . The MoBo has 8 available fan headers and the included FanXpert2 does everything and more than I need.

Channel 1 controls the twin pumps via PWM via CPU and CPU OPT Headers
Channel 2 controls the Case Fans (325 - 1250 rpm) though I have yet to see anything > 750ish
Channel 3 controls the Top 420 Rad Fans (325 - 1250 rpm) though I have yet to see anything > 850ish
Channel 4 controls the Bot 280 Rad Fans (325 - 1250 rpm) though I have yet to see anything > 850ish

I had intended to control every aspect of fan speeds via water temps originally but found the practical aspects of WBs rendered such control inadvisable in certain instances. Primarily what defeats the logic of this approach is the measly heat output of the CPU (135 watts) as compared to the twin GPUs (600 watts). Under Furmark, my GPU temps hit 44C with the CPU temp determining fan speeds.... obviously 44C is nothing to worry about .... my CPU temp is much higher. Under prime 95 however, my coolant temp rises only about 2C over idle temps.....while my CPU temp is hitting 84C. How does one establish a fan control curve based upon water temps that a) will ramp me up to 90% or more fan speed at 25C water temp when running P95 and also keep fans below the inaudible range (60%) when gaming and CPU temps are at a comfy 65C and GPUs are at a comfy 40C ?

Now Haswell-E has a TDP of 130-140 at stock speeds, well above the Haswell's 84-95. So this will bring an OC'd E CPU to meybe 200 watts ? Closer to the 300 watts of a GPU but still the twin GPUs impact will be 3 times that of the CPU. As a result, CPU only intensive tasks will still maybe change water temps by about 3C and a system designed to provide a max delta T of 10C ..... so again, how do you get to max fan speed at a 3C coolant temp rise under CPU only intensive tasks with CPU in 80s and still maintain quiet fan speeds at a 10C temp rise when CPU is in mid 60s and GPus in 40s under normal gaming ?

Assuming your system is adequately sized rad wise, there simply is no conditions you can impose on a PC that I have ever found that puts ya GPUs anywhere near temps that would be of a concern. I can't get mine to break 44C with CPU temp controlling the fan speeds on rads and fans have never exceeded 850 rpm, GPU stress tests included. You GPUs will operate just fine at minimum fan speeds, even with fans off at low loads..... and yes, FanXpert2 will allow you to both stop the fans when below a certain temp and even stipulate set ramp up / ramp down periods up to 3.5 minutes in length (fan dependent). yes, controlling fan speeds via water temp would be better if GPU temps were higher than CPU temps but in a single loop system, can you make that happen ? I can't.
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 3/26/14 at 2:25pm
911 Carrera
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
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2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
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911 Carrera
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Seasonic X-1250 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis Asus RoG GX950 Laser Mouse  Logitech Z5500 
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post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericie View Post

Thanks for all the replies!
That looks pretty decent. Though, I have my casing stuffed away under the fairly large desk, so having a front panel controlled one would not be that good of an idea. Ultimately I would want one that adjusts or even turns fans off fully automatically. Either on it's own or by a piece of (decent working) software.

Once you have your channels all set and on automatic, you can pretty much forget about it all and never have to fiddle with it again.
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Dark Vader
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39 X AP-45 2150 rpm Gentle Typhoon fans Lamptron CW611 FrozenQ Dual Bay Reservoir 2x XT45 480. 1x UT60 480 ~ 1x UT60 360 ~ 1x UT... 
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