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Heavy FPS Drops in League of Legends - Page 6

post #51 of 177
1.4v is stock settings so even if he does reset it will do the same exact thing. mine would boost up to 1.41-1.43 on stock settings which is un-needed. But I agree,you can easily run 1.34v stable with the stock settings and turbo disabled.

still need to mount a fan on your vrms preferably like an 80mm on 50-100%
 
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post #52 of 177
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06yfz450ridr View Post

yes now restart hwinfo and hit sensors only and post your temps, make sure to scroll down and select the hard drive group, rightclick, and hit dont monitor, it sometimes causes weird glitches and freezes while gaming
Done: http://i.imgur.com/aK5fTm6.jpg seems like the voltage is also dropping the moment the fps drops
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06yfz450ridr View Post

1.4v is stock settings so even if he does reset it will do the same exact thing. mine would boost up to 1.41-1.43 on stock settings which is un-needed. But I agree,you can easily run 1.34v stable with the stock settings and turbo disabled.

still need to mount a fan on your vrms preferably like an 80mm on 50-100%
Is there a way to lower the voltage?
Edited by ImmortalTechniq - 3/24/14 at 12:25pm
post #53 of 177
hmm doesnt list your vrm temps. might not be one on that board.



you will have to enter your bios for that, restart and hit delete once you first see your monitor turn on.

from there you will have all the options from overclocking, voltage control, memory speeds etc.

You may have to go into an advanced section like most asus boards have to reach the actually manual tweaking.

from there you should see something like this







this was on my old cpu when I was tweaking things. I would recommend disabling pcie and cpu spread spectrum from the start but that really can be left alone.

there will be an option that says turbo, hit disabled and then from there you can raise the multiplier to the desired speed of I believe 20-20.5 with a 200 Bclk

then you will hit manual voltage control and select say 1.34 etc.

for now you could also disable two cores if you really want to to ease the stress on your vrms and cpu. disable core 8 and core 6 which will still keeps the last two modules working
Edited by 06yfz450ridr - 3/24/14 at 12:31pm
 
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post #54 of 177
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06yfz450ridr View Post

hmm doesnt list your vrm temps. might not be one on that board.



you will have to enter your bios for that, restart and hit delete once you first see your monitor turn on.

from there you will have all the options from overclocking, voltage control, memory speeds etc.

You may have to go into an advanced section like most asus boards have to reach the actually manual tweaking.

from there you should see something like this







this was on my old cpu when I was tweaking things. I would recommend disabling pcie and cpu spread spectrum from the start but that really can be left alone.

there will be an option that says turbo, hit disabled and then from there you can raise the multiplier to the desired speed of I believe 20-20.5 with a 200 Bclk

then you will hit manual voltage control and select say 1.34 etc.

for now you could also disable two cores if you really want to to ease the stress on your vrms and cpu. disable core 8 and core 6 which will still keeps the last two modules working
And how do I disable the 6. and 8. core?
post #55 of 177
there should be another tab under the advanced section that say cpu, norht bridge, south bridge etc. it should be under cpu and from there it should say like core control set to auto. you will have to hit enable or manual i forget exactly and you will be able to enable or disable certain cores in most cases.
 
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post #56 of 177
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06yfz450ridr View Post

there should be another tab under the advanced section that say cpu, norht bridge, south bridge etc. it should be under cpu and from there it should say like core control set to auto. you will have to hit enable or manual i forget exactly and you will be able to enable or disable certain cores in most cases.
OK so the CPU Voltage setting was at 1.325, but it was on offset so I changed it to manual. I found the option to disable the 7. and 8. core and disabled them. However I couldn't find the spread spectrum settings your were talking about and they were also some settings for Dram should I change these? Going to check if it affected the drops

EDIT: Still dropping frames in the same fashion :/
Edited by ImmortalTechniq - 3/24/14 at 1:05pm
post #57 of 177
Thread Starter 
NVM the setting was on auto and I changed it to 1.34 now and also deactivated amd turbo I'm going to check if it works now.

edit: still dropping frames
Edited by ImmortalTechniq - 3/24/14 at 2:45pm
post #58 of 177
Disabling cores isn't a solution here. Leave them all active. Parallelism improves compute efficiency and spreads out thermals. The only time 8 cores will use more power than 6 is when the load actually saturates more than 6 cores. Furthermore, this is a module based architecture whose performance scaling is not proportional to the parallelism of the load. Keeping all 4 modules activated offers the best chance of achieving the highest possible compute performance with the lowest power dissipation in real world workloads.

Understanding the voltage settings of an AMD system is complicated because there are several things in play...

1. Base VID: The default voltage that the CPU will call for to run at base (non-turbo) clocks. (usually ~1.2V-1.3V). This default will only be revealed/used with APM/Turbo disabled.
2. "Turbo" base VID: The default voltage that the board will use as the "base" VID when Turbo is activated. (usually ~1.3-1.4V) This default will be revealed/used with Turbo/APM enabled.
3. Turbo Pstates: Voltage ABOVE the "turbo" VID that APM can scale up to in order to ensure stability at turbo speeds. (usually ~1.40-1.50V)
4. APM induced voltage reduction: This is when APM pulls voltage down below the "turbo base VID" when the chip is under very parallel workloads. (usually ~1.20-1.30V)

Voltages vary from chip to chip, board to board, so I'm giving "general" ranges. There are some chips with base VIDs BELOW 1.20V, and there are some that run OVER 1.50V for turbo P-states, but the important thing is that you understand that when turbo and APM were enabled (default) in offset voltage mode, you likely had voltages varying from ~1.225V-1.425V depending on load conditions (except when the chip was put in low-power states either for thermal reasons or for reduced idle power consumption, in those cases it drops to ~0.9V)

By manually setting a fixed voltage setting of 1.34V, you probably haven't reduced dissipation AT ALL from defaults. May have even made it worse depending on the workload/conditions.

At 3.1ghz, most BD/PD chips would be stable at ~1.1V, possibly less. There's a lot of overhead voltage thrown at these things to ensure absolute stability and error free operation even with motherboard tolerances accounted for and vastly different VRM designs from board to board. Unfortunately, a lot of older VRM designs on the AM3+ platform were inadequate for the real-world power consumption of these chips, so they overheat and force low-power-states to protect themselves.

If you want to get serious about tackling this problem, you need to ACTUALLY UNDERVOLT the chip. 1.34V, is NOT under-volted by any measure. The "default" VID@3.1ghz is probably closer to 1.2V.

Set it to 1.20V and work your way down from there. Don't be surprised if you can run just fine at 1.1V or LOWER with turbo and APM disabled at stock 3.1ghz clocks.

Assuming it will run at 1.1V (I bet it will), you'll have reduced your dissipation by over 30% from where you are at now, and your thermal throttling issues should be effectively solved.
Edited by mdocod - 3/24/14 at 11:36pm
     
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post #59 of 177
As mdocod said, you'll need to turn down the voltages a lot to see a significant change in power consumption. But once you push them down enough the differences will be pretty big as the power output goes by voltage squared.

Try adding some form of cooling to your VRMs, You can buy small heatsinks and maybe a fan to blow air over them. Adding another fan to the case might also help.

If the problem persists, you could consider getting a new motherboard.
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post #60 of 177
Guys I'm going to have to disturb some people and maybe break a forum rule

Temp Max: 68 C

This tells you instantly everything you need to know. Lower the volts manually down to 1.2-1.3v and either check your thermal paste or get a better CPU cooler (hyper 212 etc.). You do not want to be over 60C at all, almost all AMD chips will throttle when you get anywhere near the 60-70 range.

On a personal note I recently went to a LAN with some mates who play League, they saw me playing at 200+ fps on my Lightboost monitor and went "How do you get so many frames? Is Intel better than AMD? I always drop down to 20~40's"

Turns out the four mates who I played with all had the same problems
  • #One hadn't checked his paste in over four years on his i5 760
  • #Two was running a Deneb at 1.4v on a stock cooler that had improper contact
  • #Three also had his FX6100 on a stock FX cooler running 1.44v (!)
  • #Four had been running his Thuban on a H50 while the molex on his rad fan got cut, effectively passive cooling for the last month while his rad ran like a car radiator

Needless to say I spent the rest of the night repasting and cleaning out dusty cases, not my definition of a fun LAN party rolleyes.gif
Edited by SpartanVXL - 3/25/14 at 3:29am
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