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[Official] Galax (Galaxy / KFA2) HOF Owner's Club - Page 359

post #3581 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hionmaiden View Post

It's getting colder here in the UK again so my temps have actually gotten much better. more like 70'c max. I don't even feel the warmth of the gaming pc anymore, it's just my natural heater thumb.gif

have you opened the side of the case? maybe do some home diy and slow two fans at the side of the gpu blowing air on it. just helps to push cold air onto it.

The 980ti HoF is notorious for being a pretty warm card.

what is your voltage at? forced to 1.194/1.212v? mines 1.204v constant, and boost is constantly locked to 1470mhz core, and 3900mhz memory. have my fan speed on 60% nopw too. however I have some great front fans, and good rear fan which pull a lot of cold/hot air in and out.

My forced voltage is 1.2V the air 540 don't have a spot for any fans on the side so would have to mod but because it has a windows on the side I feel scared that I might break the panel when trying to mod it. i also tested from another pc that's running a phanteks enthoo pro case but temps is actually worse. Also 600W FSP Aurum S 80+ gold so not a bad psu any way and I was running the aircon there where at home I don't have aircon and my room temps can go anything from 27-30C. I know it's darn hot here and might be a huge factor why my card is getting hot and my asic is only 64.7% and that also might be factor due to gpu being inefficient. I'm only doing 1420 now stock memory 1.2V and temps is 73-80C depending on what happens in games it can go to 80C-83C.

My main concern is that it's on max fan speed so it should get as hot. Another thing about galax cards is the fans doesn't look like very high quality. it feels cheap like you might break it when trying to clean it gently so maybe the fans doesn't push a lot of air.

I have another question. I have a lot of these stock intel stock heatsinks lying around here. I can reuse the fan cause by testing it it doesn't run loud at full speed at all so maybe if I can sort of hack a fan blowing air directly from the front over my gpu. do you think it will make a difference? I know I can test for myself but any way to reuse them as they do push a lot of air.
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post #3582 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiceAir View Post

My forced voltage is 1.2V the air 540 don't have a spot for any fans on the side so would have to mod but because it has a windows on the side I feel scared that I might break the panel when trying to mod it. i also tested from another pc that's running a phanteks enthoo pro case but temps is actually worse. Also 600W FSP Aurum S 80+ gold so not a bad psu any way and I was running the aircon there where at home I don't have aircon and my room temps can go anything from 27-30C. I know it's darn hot here and might be a huge factor why my card is getting hot and my asic is only 64.7% and that also might be factor due to gpu being inefficient. I'm only doing 1420 now stock memory 1.2V and temps is 73-80C depending on what happens in games it can go to 80C-83C.

My main concern is that it's on max fan speed so it should get as hot. Another thing about galax cards is the fans doesn't look like very high quality. it feels cheap like you might break it when trying to clean it gently so maybe the fans doesn't push a lot of air.

I have another question. I have a lot of these stock intel stock heatsinks lying around here. I can reuse the fan cause by testing it it doesn't run loud at full speed at all so maybe if I can sort of hack a fan blowing air directly from the front over my gpu. do you think it will make a difference? I know I can test for myself but any way to reuse them as they do push a lot of air.

Do you have any high grade thermal paste? or a relatively good thermal paste? Take entire heatsink off the pcb, the fan connector will still be plugged in but you can leave it like that. Rub all the thermal paste of from the gpu die. most people use alcohol rubs, but i've never ever had a problem with just wiping it off with a cloth if i don't have alcohol wipes at hand. Then apply a reasonable amount. When i took mine off i noticed the stock paste had a lot missing from the die, when I changed it i gained like 10'c from that. If you've already done that, do it again anyway. blow all dust out from the heatsink/fans as well. Next step, open the side of your air 540 and leave the side panel off (dust will build up if you do this for a few days and so on)
grab a few 120/140/200mm fans and place them standing up ontop of something so that they can blow air onto the side of the gpu.

Test all of this by running Unigine valley on 1080p and 8xAA. you need to push the card and do a reasonable benchmark to test temps. Use msi afterburner with rivatuner to see the temps, let it do 2 full runs of the benchmark and take the max temp. after doing this, remove heatsink do thermal paste and so on, then do these other steps, then do the same benchmark with same variables.

If that doesn't do anything, maybe you have an airflow problem. Maybe the cpu isn't pushing enough heat away. Most AIO struggle to dissipate heat around the vrm/pump so it just gets stagnant. My AIO has a 70mm fan ontop of the pump to counter that. I saw 71'c today after an hour on Rust. and 70'c after 45 mins on RB Siex Siege. all with 65% fan speed which for me is nice and quiet!

I don't think the fans on the gpu are to blame. Is the gpu close to the cpu cooler? are the fans being obstructed by the PSU cover if there is one and so on? in the bottom slot my card was hitting 80-85'c in summer, moved it to normal slot went to 75'c.


If temps are really a problem where you live please please please get either of these for your next card. it doesn't have to be the 1080, it can be the next generation but these Ichill inno3d cards are the COOLEST air coolers on the market. and the hybrid is actually better than EVGA's as well. I shouldn't really advertise a different brand in the Kfa2 thread, but if you really don't want to water cool one then you NEED an x4 ichill airboss. the x3 won't suffice for your temp concerns. Or grab a hydro which will cool it a lot better, but then you do have a risk of water leaks, but they're super rare now.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/inno3d-geforce-gtx-1080-ichill-black-hybrid-8192mb-gddr5x-pci-express-graphics-card-c108b-3sdn-p6dn-gx-06h-in.html

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/inno3d-geforce-gtx-1080-ichill-air-boss-x4-8192mb-gddr5x-pci-express-graphics-card-c108v4-2sdn-p6dn-gx-062-in.html
Edited by Hionmaiden - 9/26/16 at 1:40pm
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post #3583 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCautiousOne View Post

I've got an ad out right now for anyone trying to sell a 980ti or 980 HOF

Let me know.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1612251/980ti-galax-hof-and-hof-waterblock/0_20

TCO

I have a 980 Ti HOF with the block from Bitspower that I mounted myself. I will probably be selling it soon if I get a Titan XP. But I'm in Norway.
post #3584 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hionmaiden View Post

Do you have any high grade thermal paste? or a relatively good thermal paste? Take entire heatsink off the pcb, the fan connector will still be plugged in but you can leave it like that. Rub all the thermal paste of from the gpu die. most people use alcohol rubs, but i've never ever had a problem with just wiping it off with a cloth if i don't have alcohol wipes at hand. Then apply a reasonable amount. When i took mine off i noticed the stock paste had a lot missing from the die, when I changed it i gained like 10'c from that. If you've already done that, do it again anyway. blow all dust out from the heatsink/fans as well. Next step, open the side of your air 540 and leave the side panel off (dust will build up if you do this for a few days and so on)
grab a few 120/140/200mm fans and place them standing up ontop of something so that they can blow air onto the side of the gpu.

Test all of this by running Unigine valley on 1080p and 8xAA. you need to push the card and do a reasonable benchmark to test temps. Use msi afterburner with rivatuner to see the temps, let it do 2 full runs of the benchmark and take the max temp. after doing this, remove heatsink do thermal paste and so on, then do these other steps, then do the same benchmark with same variables.

If that doesn't do anything, maybe you have an airflow problem. Maybe the cpu isn't pushing enough heat away. Most AIO struggle to dissipate heat around the vrm/pump so it just gets stagnant. My AIO has a 70mm fan ontop of the pump to counter that. I saw 71'c today after an hour on Rust. and 70'c after 45 mins on RB Siex Siege. all with 65% fan speed which for me is nice and quiet!

I don't think the fans on the gpu are to blame. Is the gpu close to the cpu cooler? are the fans being obstructed by the PSU cover if there is one and so on? in the bottom slot my card was hitting 80-85'c in summer, moved it to normal slot went to 75'c.


If temps are really a problem where you live please please please get either of these for your next card. it doesn't have to be the 1080, it can be the next generation but these Ichill inno3d cards are the COOLEST air coolers on the market. and the hybrid is actually better than EVGA's as well. I shouldn't really advertise a different brand in the Kfa2 thread, but if you really don't want to water cool one then you NEED an x4 ichill airboss. the x3 won't suffice for your temp concerns. Or grab a hydro which will cool it a lot better, but then you do have a risk of water leaks, but they're super rare now.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/inno3d-geforce-gtx-1080-ichill-black-hybrid-8192mb-gddr5x-pci-express-graphics-card-c108b-3sdn-p6dn-gx-06h-in.html

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/inno3d-geforce-gtx-1080-ichill-air-boss-x4-8192mb-gddr5x-pci-express-graphics-card-c108v4-2sdn-p6dn-gx-062-in.html


First my card is still under warranty. I'm scared to remove the heatsink because of the way they did the cooling for the VRM. Maybe someone can tell me if I remove the cooler will I damage the thermal pads on the vrm and memory as it's super hard to get hold of thermal pads here. My cpu cooler is a h100i that's situated at the top of my case as exhaust. I've replaced thermal paste on my old gpu's but didn't realy gained anything. I used arctic silver and letting it cure for a few weeks. I maybe gained like 1-2C maybe 5C max but not much.

With my side panel off I get about +-3C cooler temps. I'm willing to upgrade my 3x front cougar fans if it will help me. Could be that the way they did the mounting for the HDD on my air540. It sit's right underneath my Graphics card so it's basically drawing hot air in from the HDD's. But maybe that's a minor thing but if i can get a way to mount it at the back of my board It might also help with temps. Maybe I should move them to the back of my case for a test to see what happens. I was playing bf4 tonight and gpu never went above 73C so was super happy with temps and I only have this high temps during the day or some nights when it's super hot here.
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post #3585 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiceAir View Post

First my card is still under warranty. I'm scared to remove the heatsink because of the way they did the cooling for the VRM. Maybe someone can tell me if I remove the cooler will I damage the thermal pads on the vrm and memory as it's super hard to get hold of thermal pads here. My cpu cooler is a h100i that's situated at the top of my case as exhaust. I've replaced thermal paste on my old gpu's but didn't realy gained anything. I used arctic silver and letting it cure for a few weeks. I maybe gained like 1-2C maybe 5C max but not much.

With my side panel off I get about +-3C cooler temps. I'm willing to upgrade my 3x front cougar fans if it will help me. Could be that the way they did the mounting for the HDD on my air540. It sit's right underneath my Graphics card so it's basically drawing hot air in from the HDD's. But maybe that's a minor thing but if i can get a way to mount it at the back of my board It might also help with temps. Maybe I should move them to the back of my case for a test to see what happens. I was playing bf4 tonight and gpu never went above 73C so was super happy with temps and I only have this high temps during the day or some nights when it's super hot here.

Mines got another year and a bit of warranty left so i'm not fussed. Don't be scared to remove the heatsink, the thermal pads are stick on, they can be removed, but both sides are sticky i believe. when i removed my heatsink they just peeled off the pcb and were still on the heatsink. they won't remove easily. Just take the heatsink off, change the thermal paste. Like I said it could be bad thermal paste on the gpu die.

is your H100i set in Pull or push? Fans at the top and rad below may cause not enough hot air to be pushed through it. I have a Cryorig A40 Ultimate in push, so all my hot air also gets pushed up. if it's in pull then it will mainly pull the heat from the rad out. Which means your rear fan is doing all the work and probably can't handle it.

I never look at the temps any more. The card is safe up to around 86'c I think, actually I think it's safe up to 90'c. lower the better though

Look at these photos and you will see how mine is set up. I have a different case, which is notorious for bad-ish airflow but I kick some great temps with my setup.


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post #3586 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hionmaiden View Post

Mines got another year and a bit of warranty left so i'm not fussed. Don't be scared to remove the heatsink, the thermal pads are stick on, they can be removed, but both sides are sticky i believe. when i removed my heatsink they just peeled off the pcb and were still on the heatsink. they won't remove easily. Just take the heatsink off, change the thermal paste. Like I said it could be bad thermal paste on the gpu die.

is your H100i set in Pull or push? Fans at the top and rad below may cause not enough hot air to be pushed through it. I have a Cryorig A40 Ultimate in push, so all my hot air also gets pushed up. if it's in pull then it will mainly pull the heat from the rad out. Which means your rear fan is doing all the work and probably can't handle it.

I never look at the temps any more. The card is safe up to around 86'c I think, actually I think it's safe up to 90'c. lower the better though

Look at these photos and you will see how mine is set up. I have a different case, which is notorious for bad-ish airflow but I kick some great temps with my setup.



thanks for the info. So i can remove the heatsink and install a the following on the card and has been confirmed by arctic that it should work on my card but don't know if I should worry about doing it as it's still a lot of money and I might just gain lower temps rather than increasing my overclocking. My H100i is set as exhaust at the top

https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/accelero-xtreme-iii.html

or

https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/accelero-hybrid-iii-120.html


The xtreme III might just cool a little bit better but the hybrid III-120 will drop temps by a fair amount i say will make the card stay under 60C at the very least. i don't know if it's worth voiding the warranty. I played bf4 last night and temps was about 71C but I must admit was not that hot in the room. Was a litle bit cooler than some of the hotter night's here so temps seems to be alright. As long as I also keep the vrm nice and cool it's fine.

I feel that i shouldn't do much on a 980ti these days and just stick with my temps for now unless I know that temps will increase my overclocking on the card.


ok been thinking a lot and I a ctually bought the following form a guy here on overclock.net before and still have it unused so I can buy the cheapest AIO cooler. This is the cheapest one from cheapest to more expensive

Cooler Master Seidon 120V Plus.
Antec Kühler H600 Pro
Corsair H60


This is the bracket's i have. It comes with an additional piece that you install on the card to be able to have a 120mm fan blowing air across the card to cool the vrm. Just one stupid thing about the 980ti hof is that the vrm heatsing is not a seperate heatsink so I will have to cool the vrm with just fans. I can get these or these or these

But if I get the hybrid III-120 I will be sure that I have the correct things i need but will be spending more money than I have to. I still have some arctic silver 5 left here so will use that.
Edited by DiceAir - 9/27/16 at 2:59am
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post #3587 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiceAir View Post

thanks for the info. So i can remove the heatsink and install a the following on the card and has been confirmed by arctic that it should work on my card but don't know if I should worry about doing it as it's still a lot of money and I might just gain lower temps rather than increasing my overclocking. My H100i is set as exhaust at the top

https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/accelero-xtreme-iii.html

or

https://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/accelero-hybrid-iii-120.html


The xtreme III might just cool a little bit better but the hybrid III-120 will drop temps by a fair amount i say will make the card stay under 60C at the very least. i don't know if it's worth voiding the warranty. I played bf4 last night and temps was about 71C but I must admit was not that hot in the room. Was a litle bit cooler than some of the hotter night's here so temps seems to be alright. As long as I also keep the vrm nice and cool it's fine.

I feel that i shouldn't do much on a 980ti these days and just stick with my temps for now unless I know that temps will increase my overclocking on the card.


ok been thinking a lot and I a ctually bought the following form a guy here on overclock.net before and still have it unused so I can buy the cheapest AIO cooler. This is the cheapest one from cheapest to more expensive

Cooler Master Seidon 120V Plus.
Antec Kühler H600 Pro
Corsair H60


This is the bracket's i have. It comes with an additional piece that you install on the card to be able to have a 120mm fan blowing air across the card to cool the vrm. Just one stupid thing about the 980ti hof is that the vrm heatsing is not a seperate heatsink so I will have to cool the vrm with just fans. I can get these or these or these

But if I get the hybrid III-120 I will be sure that I have the correct things i need but will be spending more money than I have to. I still have some arctic silver 5 left here so will use that.

Before you do anything, take the heatsink off and apply new thermal paste and make sure all the heatsink fins and fans have no dust. Then do the same with your intake fans and exhaust fans.

with the radiator you didn't understand what I meant. are the fans in push or pull mode? if they're in pull they won't pull any heat from the middle of the case out with them so only the rear fan can extract the stagnant hot air building up around the gpu/cpu. you will need to put the fans into push, so it will be... top of case, then rad, then fans. that will allow them to not only cool the rad, but also pull hot air through the fins which will help dissipate more heat.

do all of this before you buy an acrtic product. Plus the HoF will end up looking crap, it's made to look how it is imo biggrin.gif
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post #3588 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hionmaiden View Post

Before you do anything, take the heatsink off and apply new thermal paste and make sure all the heatsink fins and fans have no dust. Then do the same with your intake fans and exhaust fans.

with the radiator you didn't understand what I meant. are the fans in push or pull mode? if they're in pull they won't pull any heat from the middle of the case out with them so only the rear fan can extract the stagnant hot air building up around the gpu/cpu. you will need to put the fans into push, so it will be... top of case, then rad, then fans. that will allow them to not only cool the rad, but also pull hot air through the fins which will help dissipate more heat.

do all of this before you buy an acrtic product. Plus the HoF will end up looking crap, it's made to look how it is imo biggrin.gif

my h100i fans is as exhaust on the bottom. i also agree it looks sweet with the stock cooler. I might as well just do the thermal paste thing as what's the worse that can happen. I'm sure it can't worsen the thing unless arctic silver 5 is not good at all but i think it is good cause I used it on many system builds with no issue but I also haven't compare it to some decent thermal paste. I know when it's working the best to worse won't make a huge difference but hey maybe I'm wrong. I don't have a lot of experience by modding a card or replacing thermal paste. I only did my previous cards and I saw a 1-2C drop in temps but there wasn't any huge issues anyway.

One other thing that scares me is that I don't want to be putting it back and don't have even pressure on the card and sit with more issues. I also think they should start adding thermal pads at the back of the cards so that the backplate can dissipate heat from the back a little better

I know everyone is getting frustrated with me as people like you keep telling me what I can try but it looks like I don't want to and just want the magic thing that will cost me nothing to make my temps drop and I know now that won't happen but I'm also a person that likes to play it safer than most other people.
Edited by DiceAir - 9/27/16 at 6:09am
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Main Gaming RIG
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-4790k ASUS VII Ranger Galax hof gtx 980 ti 16GB 1600mhz adata ram 
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128GB SSD Samsung 840 evo 1TB WD blue Liteon 256GB SSD Phanteks PH-TC14PE 
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Windows 8.1 ASUS PG279Q Cooler master Quickfire XT Corsair AX850w 
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post #3589 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiceAir View Post

my h100i fans is as exhaust on the bottom. i also agree it looks sweet with the stock cooler. I might as well just do the thermal paste thing as what's the worse that can happen. I'm sure it can't worsen the thing unless arctic silver 5 is not good at all but i think it is good cause I used it on many system builds with no issue but I also haven't compare it to some decent thermal paste. I know when it's working the best to worse won't make a huge difference but hey maybe I'm wrong. I don't have a lot of experience by modding a card or replacing thermal paste. I only did my previous cards and I saw a 1-2C drop in temps but there wasn't any huge issues anyway.

I just think something is causing heat issues with your card. when i changed my thermal paste it made a big difference for me.
Black & White
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I5-6600k MSI Z170A KRAIT KFA2 Gtx 980ti hall of fame Seagate 1TB SSHD 
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Western Digital caviar Blue 1TB Western Digital Passport Ultra 1TB Cryorig A40 Ultimate Windows 10 pro 64bit 
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Asus Vc239h Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 EVGA G2 750W 80+G NZXT H440 V2 2015 edition 
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Black & White
(15 items)
 
CPUMotherboardRAMHard Drive
I5-6600k MSI Z170A KRAIT KFA2 Gtx 980ti hall of fame Seagate 1TB SSHD 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Western Digital caviar Blue 1TB Western Digital Passport Ultra 1TB Cryorig A40 Ultimate Windows 10 pro 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Asus Vc239h Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 EVGA G2 750W 80+G NZXT H440 V2 2015 edition 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Razer abyysus Technet foam pad Logitech Z506 
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post #3590 of 3998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hionmaiden View Post

I just think something is causing heat issues with your card. when i changed my thermal paste it made a big difference for me.

Ok cool then will arctic silver be good enough for my GPU. I don't want to go out and use something that might be worse than the stock thermal paste.
Main Gaming RIG
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-4790k ASUS VII Ranger Galax hof gtx 980 ti 16GB 1600mhz adata ram 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
128GB SSD Samsung 840 evo 1TB WD blue Liteon 256GB SSD Phanteks PH-TC14PE 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 ASUS PG279Q Cooler master Quickfire XT Corsair AX850w 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Air carbide 540 Steelseries Ikari Laser Steelsereies QCK+ sound Blaster Z 
Audio
Sennheiser HD 598 
  hide details  
Reply
Main Gaming RIG
(17 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-4790k ASUS VII Ranger Galax hof gtx 980 ti 16GB 1600mhz adata ram 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
128GB SSD Samsung 840 evo 1TB WD blue Liteon 256GB SSD Phanteks PH-TC14PE 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 ASUS PG279Q Cooler master Quickfire XT Corsair AX850w 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Air carbide 540 Steelseries Ikari Laser Steelsereies QCK+ sound Blaster Z 
Audio
Sennheiser HD 598 
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Reply
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