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How long will my parts last?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hey,
So with building my first loop, I am deciding what size of radiator want. Since I won't be adding a video card soon, I was wondering how long will each part of the loop last under frequent maintinence? Also, I usually turn my computer off when I go to sleep. I am going with an XSPC kit:http://www.xs-pc.com/watercooling-kits/raystorm-d5-photon-rx360-v3-watercooling-kit
Thanks.
post #2 of 12
Chance of WC parts failing is pretty slim. You'll really just have to replace the tubing every couple of months.

The first part to fail will probably be the pump, and that will take several years. I think some guys here are still using like 7-10 year old waterblocks.
post #3 of 12
I've not replaced the tubing since 2003. The pump is a Laing DDC-1T 10W still running smoothly 24/7/360 for the last 11 years.

As for failing, the fans on the RAD tend to die more often. Then the RAD gets clogged with dust bunnies and needs an air hose treatment or air in a can. Careful not to broadcast that dust everywhere.

If you have flushed clean each part with white vinegar and distilled water, use clear tubing that is durable and flexible, and use a mixture of 90% distilled water with 10% automotive Propylene Glycol coolant, expect many years over a decade of good cooling.

Tubing like Clearflex60 is sold many places in this hobby.
http://www.aetnaplastics.com/site_media/media/attachments/aetna_product_aetnaproduct/122/ClearFlex%20Vinyl%2060.pdf

Another plus is a fast acting and high joule clamping surge protector. Mine is a Tripplite. It's survived a lightning strike.

That kit should hold up well.

The only draw back to the D5 is the cavitation that could occur and the binge point in the volute that wear away inside. If the D5 is a variable speed, run it at the lowest possible setting that can keep the computer cool under a heavy load. This will keep the D5 to live longer.
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post #4 of 12
As far as the actual liquid cooling parts go I'd say pump or radiators will be first to die. I'd recommend corrosion inhibitors. The parts wont fail for a long time, but when they do usually the rads are the ones to fail due to the solder in them reacting with the copper, eating their way through the radiator. WHen they fail it's not replacing the liquid cooling parts that is the problem, it's the possibility of it leaking on your super expensive mother board, cpu, or video card. Please realize that these horror stories are few and far from, but they do happen can can usually be avoided by using corrosion inhibitors.

If you DO use corrosion inhibitors your pump will be the first to fail after a few years. Then the pump will be the second thing to fail, once it's replaced. The solid parts will last a VERY long time if you use corrosion inhibitors. Keep in mind I'm not including the fans in this explanation, they will probably be the first to fail period. More than likely it won't be because the fan stops spinning, it will be because the bearing is failing and all the sudden the fans are 4x louder.

So yeah, don't use corrosion inhibitors and a couple years, do use corrosion inhibitors and last a LONG time.
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post #5 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmaverick View Post

I've not replaced the tubing since 2003. The pump is a Laing DDC-1T 10W still running smoothly 24/7/360 for the last 11 years.

As for failing, the fans on the RAD tend to die more often. Then the RAD gets clogged with dust bunnies and needs an air hose treatment or air in a can. Careful not to broadcast that dust everywhere.

If you have flushed clean each part with white vinegar and distilled water, use clear tubing that is durable and flexible, and use a mixture of 90% distilled water with 10% automotive Propylene Glycol coolant, expect many years over a decade of good cooling.

Tubing like Clearflex60 is sold many places in this hobby.
http://www.aetnaplastics.com/site_media/media/attachments/aetna_product_aetnaproduct/122/ClearFlex%20Vinyl%2060.pdf

Another plus is a fast acting and high joule clamping surge protector. Mine is a Tripplite. It's survived a lightning strike.

That kit should hold up well.

The only draw back to the D5 is the cavitation that could occur and the binge point in the volute that wear away inside. If the D5 is a variable speed, run it at the lowest possible setting that can keep the computer cool under a heavy load. This will keep the D5 to live longer.

Dont use vinegar for flushing anything,hot water is sufficient. Rad flux is water soluble,not acid soluble. Running a D5 at max will not shorten its lifespan significantly,unlike all DDC bar the 10w,it is widely regarded as the most reliable WC pump available.

Rad solder seams are the main weak point for me,they do develop leaks from the thermal cycling or corrosion.....eventually anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

As far as the actual liquid cooling parts go I'd say pump or radiators will be first to die. I'd recommend corrosion inhibitors. The parts wont fail for a long time, but when they do usually the rads are the ones to fail due to the solder in them reacting with the copper, eating their way through the radiator. WHen they fail it's not replacing the liquid cooling parts that is the problem, it's the possibility of it leaking on your super expensive mother board, cpu, or video card. Please realize that these horror stories are few and far from, but they do happen can can usually be avoided by using corrosion inhibitors.

If you DO use corrosion inhibitors your pump will be the first to fail after a few years. Then the pump will be the second thing to fail, once it's replaced. The solid parts will last a VERY long time if you use corrosion inhibitors. Keep in mind I'm not including the fans in this explanation, they will probably be the first to fail period. More than likely it won't be because the fan stops spinning, it will be because the bearing is failing and all the sudden the fans are 4x louder.

So yeah, don't use corrosion inhibitors and a couple years, do use corrosion inhibitors and last a LONG time.

I dont use inhibitors and I have kit going on 7-8 years old,still in use and still as good. Not a bad thing to have in a loop but not make or break by any means.



OP- Basically you get what you pay for,skimp on something and it will need replacing sooner rather than later. A high quality pump should be top of your list,anything with a moving part is prone to wear and you should spend a little extra on these components.
Also,fan controllers...if you are getting one,are mostly junk unless you spend money,the cheap ones are cheap for a good reason....they are garbage. thumb.gif
Edited by B NEGATIVE - 4/5/14 at 12:18am
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post #6 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrDragon50 View Post

Chance of WC parts failing is pretty slim. You'll really just have to replace the tubing every couple of months.

The first part to fail will probably be the pump, and that will take several years. I think some guys here are still using like 7-10 year old waterblocks.

replace tubing every couple months? Where did you get that idea...
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post #7 of 12
Your fans will last you longer if.you grease/oil your bearings.
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post #8 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by HardwareDecoder View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrDragon50 View Post

Chance of WC parts failing is pretty slim. You'll really just have to replace the tubing every couple of months.

The first part to fail will probably be the pump, and that will take several years. I think some guys here are still using like 7-10 year old waterblocks.

replace tubing every couple months? Where did you get that idea...

Because that is the way it used to be,plasticizer free tube is a recent development.
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post #9 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by HardwareDecoder View Post

replace tubing every couple months? Where did you get that idea...

Tubing will leach plastisizer into.the coolant, gum up your blocks, and the tubing will get cloudy.
Two of my loops had that problem with tygon and masketer brands. I hear Primochil Advanced LRT doesn't have that problem.
I'm not taki.g any chances, all my tubing will be copper.
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post #10 of 12
Many parts that I have in my loop have an age between 9 and 11 years and none of them show any real problems so far. As precaution I have changed the o-rings of the blocks etc. every few years. I think B NEGATIVE is right here: you get what you pay for.
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