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post #11 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Ok cool. Get the Kill A Watt and only plug your PSU into it. Then, multiply any reading you see by .85 to estimate 85% efficiency. The result of your calculation will be the amount of power that the computer is pulling out of the PSU.

Just looked it up and 20$ is not to bad. + rep for the help and I will report back with my findings.

Thanks
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post #12 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Divey View Post


Just looked it up and 20$ is not to bad. + rep for the help and I will report back with my findings.

Thanks

 

Nice. I wasn't concerned about getting a Rep.

 

Anyway, you're very welcome.

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post #13 of 22
I don't see how a Kill-A-Watt will help because if the computer turns on and operates normally, the PSU is at least partially OK. It's much safer to do the paperclip test and measure all the voltages without the PSU connected to anything in the computer. Then if the voltages check out OK, turn off, connect everything, and measure voltages again while the computer runs.

A way to see if a PSU can put enough power is by comparing the output voltages at idle and at full load. No positive voltage should change by more than 5%. It's best to do this with a meter because the motherboard's measurement hardware can be inaccurate.
post #14 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by larymoencurly View Post

I don't see how a Kill-A-Watt will help because if the computer turns on and operates normally, the PSU is at least partially OK. It's much safer to do the paperclip test and measure all the voltages without the PSU connected to anything in the computer. Then if the voltages check out OK, turn off, connect everything, and measure voltages again while the computer runs.

A way to see if a PSU can put enough power is by comparing the output voltages at idle and at full load. No positive voltage should change by more than 5%. It's best to do this with a meter because the motherboard's measurement hardware can be inaccurate.

I just sleeved the whole thing and before I hooked it up I checked every line with a volt meter. I'm not worried that it maybe failling but maybe I drew to much power at one point and tripped the psu. I also would like to know how much total power is being drawn as I am having a feeling that my oc may have not been stable.
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post #15 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Divey View Post

I just sleeved the whole thing and before I hooked it up I checked every line with a volt meter. I'm not worried that it maybe failling but maybe I drew to much power at one point and tripped the psu. I also would like to know how much total power is being drawn as I am having a feeling that my oc may have not been stable.
That's not how you're supposed to think about it.

A Kill-A-Watt is a poor indicator for PSU problems related to overclocking stability, and it's much better to measure the droops in output voltages between idle and full load.

When you checked your sleeving, what voltages did you measure for each PSU pin, and how did they compare to the voltages you measured for each corresponding pin of an unmodified PSU, preferrably when you held identical connectors from each, right next to one another and in the same orientation (held together with tape or a rubber band)?
post #16 of 22
Thread Starter 
So I just did a few test and I do not think the psu was ever overloaded. Running 3dmark 11 the max was 720w x .85=612w. I then tested the gpu's alone with msi kombuster and the max was 875w x .85=743w. I tested the cpu alone with intel burn test and the max was 480w x .85=408w. Now I tested both test at the same time. Max was 980w x .85=833w. I chose these test because of how much load they can put out so it's same to assume I would really never get that high in gaming. Does this sound right?

Thanks
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post #17 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by larymoencurly View Post

That's not how you're supposed to think about it.

A Kill-A-Watt is a poor indicator for PSU problems related to overclocking stability, and it's much better to measure the droops in output voltages between idle and full load.

When you checked your sleeving, what voltages did you measure for each PSU pin, and how did they compare to the voltages you measured for each corresponding pin of an unmodified PSU, preferrably when you held identical connectors from each, right next to one another and in the same orientation (held together with tape or a rubber band)?

I just wanted to see if I was overloading the psu and if not then I know for sure it's the oc. When I sleeved the cables I have a semi modular psu so I didn't do anything that could have messed with voltages. And I used my extra psu to compare from.
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post #18 of 22

See larymoencurly, this is why I supported the purchase of the Kill A Watt.

 

Divey: Yep! You did those calculations correctly. So, it's just as we suspected: the PSU was not being overloaded at all. I don't know where that leaves us, but at least we found that out.

It's a computer!
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
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250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (OS) 3 TB Toshiba P300 (storage) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
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Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate Basic, but premium round 
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It's a computer!
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (OS) 3 TB Toshiba P300 (storage) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate Basic, but premium round 
AudioAudio
X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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post #19 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

See larymoencurly, this is why I supported the purchase of the Kill A Watt.

Divey: Yep! You did those calculations correctly. So, it's just as we suspected: the PSU was not being overloaded at all. I don't know where that leaves us, but at least we found that out.

Thanks for all the help. This meter comes in handy for other household things as well.
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Gamer
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Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG DVD EK Supremecy CPU EK GTX 980 Ti Black Ice SR-1 360/240 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
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post #20 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Divey View Post


Thanks for all the help. This meter comes in handy for other household things as well.

 

Yeah, it's a fun toy! :)

It's a computer!
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (OS) 3 TB Toshiba P300 (storage) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate Basic, but premium round 
AudioAudio
X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
It's a computer!
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (OS) 3 TB Toshiba P300 (storage) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate Basic, but premium round 
AudioAudio
X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
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