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post #11 of 24
max temp limits on parts is why i would be worried about 40*C plus. that and the fact with MY ambient temp, 40*C plus coolant would warrant more rads. i came back and clarified my statement because i meant me and know some of you have no choice in the matter.
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post #12 of 24
Just come visit us here in Hoth, where we enjoy 19c idle temps with water cooling all the time and 27 load temps
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post #13 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

Not really a heat wave as such. Summer temps in Australia are pretty normal to be 30+ with the occasional 40C. Its one of the main reasons I started water cooling. We are heading out of summer now though of course. A Laing pump with standard plastic top is limited to 60C fluid and I think most flex tubing is recommended to max at least 50C. All other parts should be the same or higher.

Edit: Huh, Masterkleer reckon 70C+ is Ok for their tube. Now that is warm.

A 4C delta with twin 360's ... wow that is low. What sort of fan speed is that with? With a 360 and 240 my idle delta is 2.5C and BF4 load is about 10C with fans at about 1200rpm

I have a push set up of 1800RPM fans, but I think my low delta is mainly due to a large reservoir in a room that is an ambient temp of about 18-20°. I actually have a fair amount of evaporating cooling happening. And the RADs are the XSPC 360's...so they are nice and thick with a good amount of surface area.

It is in my utility room. I just run cables through the wall to my desk. Then I don't have to hear the fans. It actually took a while to get used to my monitors coming on in silence (Well, if I really listen close I can hear the fans...but they are just a whisper through the wall.)
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post #14 of 24
res size means nothing for temps unless you use a 50 gallon barrel. it just takes longer to heat that coolant. the temps will eventually be the same as if you had 5ml res.
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post #15 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

res size means nothing for temps unless you use a 50 gallon barrel. it just takes longer to heat that coolant. the temps will eventually be the same as if you had 5ml res.

...the reservoir is a 2.5 gallon bucket. That is where temp probe is at that I've never seen at more than 4° delta.

If the coolant can sit in it for a while and cool via radiation and evaporation. Though time is also factor. I am sure if I left the PC on for several hours it might warm up more...but it is rarely on for more more than four hours or so at a time.
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post #16 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vagrant Storm View Post

...the reservoir is a 2.5 gallon bucket. That is where temp probe is at that I've never seen at more than 4° delta.

If the coolant can sit in it for a while and cool via radiation and evaporation. Though time is also factor. I am sure if I left the PC on for several hours it might warm up more...but it is rarely on for more more than four hours or so at a time.

My guess is that with 2-3 gallons res, you will reach temps equilibrium within a few minutes depending on your raddage and heat load.
Your coolant will warm up more slowly, and will also cool down more slowly.

Evaporation is non-existant, or minimal in a closed loop.
And heat radiation is marginal in a plastic reservoir.
Unless you get a metal res with heatsinks stuck all over it, with fans trained on it, effectively turning it into a a 2 gallon rad.

Here is a little experiment you can make.
Turn on your PC and let your coolant warm up to 40° with you fans off.
Shut everything down and see how long your reservoir takes to drop down to 35°.
That is how much heat your 2-3 gallon res dissipates.

My guesstimate is it will take a good 20-30 minutes for your coolant to drop down from 40 to 35°.
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post #17 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vagrant Storm View Post

...the reservoir is a 2.5 gallon bucket. That is where temp probe is at that I've never seen at more than 4° delta.

If the coolant can sit in it for a while and cool via radiation and evaporation. Though time is also factor. I am sure if I left the PC on for several hours it might warm up more...but it is rarely on for more more than four hours or so at a time.

My guess is that with 2-3 gallons res, you will reach temps equilibrium within a few minutes depending on your raddage and heat load.
Your coolant will warm up more slowly, and will also cool down more slowly.

Evaporation is non-existant, or minimal in a closed loop.
And heat radiation is marginal in a plastic reservoir.
Unless you get a metal res with heatsinks stuck all over it, with fans trained on it, effectively turning it into a a 2 gallon rad.

Here is a little experiment you can make.
Turn on your PC and let your coolant warm up to 40° with you fans off.
Shut everything down and see how long your reservoir takes to drop down to 35°.
That is how much heat your 2-3 gallon res dissipates.

My guesstimate is it will take a good 20-30 minutes for your coolant to drop down from 40 to 35°.

Well the loop isn't really closed. It's air tight or as air tight as possible, but there is a large gap at the top of the reservoir. If I pull the lid off there will be coolant dripping off of it. I can put it back on and it not be long until it is dripping again. So there is a fair amount of evaporation going on. A few years ago I used a 10 gallon fish tank with a plexiglass lid that wasn't air tight...the wall paper border in my office actually fell off the wall due to the humidity even though the water temp wasn't that much above ambient in that case either.

Though a large part of the evaporation/radiation is the pumps moving the coolant around. If I just left it sat there still in the bucket it would only be cooling at a fraction of its true ability (LOL don't underestimate the power of the bucket). I think I have a submersible pump around somewhere...I might drop that in the bucket and give it a try one of these days. I am really curious what the cooling capability of it is. Really all I know is that temps will be much better with it in the loop. It might just be the radiation/conduction effect of it. That is a fair amount of surface area the water is moving past, but I know evaporation cooling can be fairly effective as well...but it is typically used on a much grander scale.
Edited by Vagrant Storm - 4/1/14 at 12:04pm
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post #18 of 24
I used 40 gal reservoirs when I was growing hydroponic 'tomatoes' biggrin.gif
Just a small computer 120mm fan across the surface of the water could keep it 2-3 degrees cooler than ambient temps.
But water chillers were ridiculously expensive to provide similar results.
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post #19 of 24
i love me some good green fried tomatoes.
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post #20 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vagrant Storm View Post

Well the loop isn't really closed. It's air tight or as air tight as possible, but there is a large gap at the top of the reservoir. If I pull the lid off there will be coolant dripping off of it. I can put it back on and it not be long until it is dripping again. So there is a fair amount of evaporation going on. A few years ago I used a 10 gallon fish tank with a plexiglass lid that wasn't air tight...the wall paper border in my office actually fell off the wall due to the humidity even though the water temp wasn't that much above ambient in that case either.

Though a large part of the evaporation/radiation is the pumps moving the coolant around. If I just left it sat there still in the bucket it would only be cooling at a fraction of its true ability (LOL don't underestimate the power of the bucket). I think I have a submersible pump around somewhere...I might drop that in the bucket and give it a try one of these days. I am really curious what the cooling capability of it is. Really all I know is that temps will be much better with it in the loop. It might just be the radiation/conduction effect of it. That is a fair amount of surface area the water is moving past, but I know evaporation cooling can be fairly effective as well...but it is typically used on a much grander scale.

The coolant dripping off the lid you are describing is condensation, not evaporation. My water level will change a lot in the first few weeks after filling and even after months of operation. There is an air gap in my bay res and condensation does occur. The water level change is almost 100% from the air in the system working its way back to the res. I am sure of this.
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