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Water evaporating from reservoir? - Page 2

post #11 of 19
A well sealed loop should not lose a noticeable amount of water, except over a very long time.
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post #12 of 19
Thread Starter 

Alright, after looking over the advice given and a fresh refill I found the leak! Appears one of my radiators sprung a leak. Reason I couldn't tell right away? Apparently since I have my AP-15's in push every time the radiator would drip the fan blades and the air they were pushing would pretty much turn the droplet into a mist and push it upwards back into the radiator. I would never have noticed this otherwise - or until there was a catastrophic amount of water pouring down. Thanks for the advice about rad corrostion.

 

Thankfully having QDC's made this an easy issue to resolve. =)  Now to save up some money to replace the rad =/

    
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post #13 of 19
If you can find the leak you might be able to seal it with a drop of solder. Obviously leak check afterwards and flush the rad.
post #14 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 15goudreau View Post

If you can find the leak you might be able to seal it with a drop of solder. Obviously leak check afterwards and flush the rad.

 

Awesome idea!

    
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post #15 of 19
Keep in mind that most (all, unless someone specifically makes some for this purpose that I don't know of) solder isn't made of copper, so you're gonna have a mixed metal issue if you solder up your loop. Minor enough that some corrosion inhibitor should solve it of course.
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post #16 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post

Keep in mind that most (all, unless someone specifically makes some for this purpose that I don't know of) solder isn't made of copper, so you're gonna have a mixed metal issue if you solder up your loop. Minor enough that some corrosion inhibitor should solve it of course.

Hate to be argumentative but no he won't have mixed metal issues, or at least no more than he already had. Most radiators are not a solid chunk of metal with fins, the radiator itself is soldered together. All those lanes are soldered to the chambers using a tin based solder.

OP, if you're going to solder it shut be sure to get unleaded solder and flush fairly thoroughly after it cools. I'd always recommend a good corrosion inhibitor., mayhems X1 is my go to fluid as you can get it in clear, or any color you need.
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post #17 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by werds View Post

Awesome idea!

I've had several leaking rads fix by my local Automotive Radiator repairer, they will need to be repainted to. thumb.gif
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post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by werds View Post

Alright, after looking over the advice given and a fresh refill I found the leak! Appears one of my radiators sprung a leak. Reason I couldn't tell right away? Apparently since I have my AP-15's in push every time the radiator would drip the fan blades and the air they were pushing would pretty much turn the droplet into a mist and push it upwards back into the radiator. I would never have noticed this otherwise - or until there was a catastrophic amount of water pouring down. Thanks for the advice about rad corrostion.

Thankfully having QDC's made this an easy issue to resolve. =)  Now to save up some money to replace the rad =/

Glad you found the source of the problem!

Considering that one hole corroded through, there are almost certainly other sites withiin the rad where the corrosion is well under way but hasn't broken through yet. I would say replacing the rad is the best course of action unless the automotive radiator repair process addresses nascent corrosion as well.
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post #19 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post

Glad you found the source of the problem!

Considering that one hole corroded through, there are almost certainly other sites withiin the rad where the corrosion is well under way but hasn't broken through yet. I would say replacing the rad is the best course of action unless the automotive radiator repair process addresses nascent corrosion as well.

If he has an air compressor and a one way valve with a PSI monitor he could always rig it in, and push up to 20PSI of pressure. Most rads are only rated for 1.5 bars, or 21.75(insert annoying long conversion decimals here) so if it can handle that more than likely the corrosion hasn't worked it's way through other spots far enough to present a risk, if they had they would probably burst through when pressurized. You do raise a valid point though, no point in fixing something that's going to fail a few weeks later, especially if when it fails it could potentially harm hundreds of $$ of stuff.
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