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post #11 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by EddWar View Post

And yes, is possible make a 2.1 system from a 2 channel amp, but you will need to get a subwofer with the option of connect speakers to it, and recive audio from the amp


That is a picture of a 2.0 w/subwoofer. A 2.1 system would have a discreet channel (e.g. LFE) for the subwoofer. A 1980's AVR could never be a 2.1 because it does not have the circuitry to perform the task.
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post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickeelion View Post

so how does the PM550DC's 65 watts per channel in 1970's terms compare today?

Yeah I was going to get a new cartridge and needle, I have also been told I should inspect the capacitors and check for DC offset as it has not been used for 10 years.
Also could you clarify what TOTL is?

I have looked into it a bit and I'm considering getting some more Marantz vintage components is there anything that you would suggest looking at?
Someone said 70's era stuff yes?
TOTL = Top of the Line

These days, with receivers and other so-called "hi-fi" equipment having high ranking wattage, they don't seem to have the power that an older receiver does. I have a simple Pioneer A-7 integrated amp from the early 80s that blows away my fairly current Denon AVR-688. The A-7 is rated using less wattage too.

Basically any silver-faced stuff made from brushed aluminum is a good sign that it is from the 70s. There used to be a lot of care put into the manufacturing of these components, and usually were made in Japan. They are all built like tanks. Although, there was plenty of well made components in the 80s as well. My Denon DR-M3 tape deck is from the 80s, and is a beast. Very well made. Pioneer was a huge brand for hi-fi back in that time. SX stereo receivers, SA intergrated amps, TX tuners, CT-F series cassette decks, and PL turntables. Good turntables to look out for are their direct drive ones, including the PL-518.

There are also people online that could help you service these components, or even help you find someone that does. They are certainly not throw-away items.
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post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 
Cool! Also I went into my local record store today and asked the shopowner about it, he didnt say much that wasn't already said here except he suggested on ortofon cartridge and he said that when listening to music you should use a 2.0 system not 2.1 or anything else and that 2.1 and larger were mainly made for movies and gaming, is this correct?

I've already dropped $420 on records... and being in Australia I did not get many for my money either ($50-60 per record redface.gif though I did get some rare ones)
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post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickeelion View Post

he said that when listening to music you should use a 2.0 system not 2.1 or anything else and that 2.1 and larger were mainly made for movies and gaming, is this correct?

The difference between a 2.0 and a 2.1 system is the addition of the LFE channel. Your LP's are recorded in stereo (a.k.a.2.0) so there's no need to worry about a 2.1 system. The picture submitted earlier by EddWar is the correct way to add a subwoofer to your system. The sub has a crossover built in which will separate the low frequencies from the highs and send them to the appropriate drivers.
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RONIN
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post #15 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by AuraNova View Post

Basically any silver-faced stuff made from brushed aluminum is a good sign that it is from the 70s. There used to be a lot of care put into the manufacturing of these components,.

Also, the engineering design and choice of parts used in today's equipment is done differently. In the '70s-'80s engineering budgets were devoted to making products that sounded good since that was the way they were marketed and sold. You went to stores and listened. If it didn't sound good, you didn't buy it.

Today, with the interwebs, people just look for "features" because that's all the can see on the internet. Engineering budgets have switched from better sound to more channels, knobs, buttons, connectors and whatnot to the determent of SQ. Faced with the choice of, say, using better capacitors/resistors, or paying royalties for Dolby Digital decoding, today's engineers are forced to choose more features.

The "used" SQ you can buy today would cost 5x-10x times more for current, equivalent "new".

I have an amp. It's full class A. It will Put out 270 wpc @ 8 ohms (1.2 kiilowatts @ 1 ohm).
Just try and find something new that will do that and you're looking at $10K plus.
I paid $350 (a lucky steal off of eBay).
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