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post #121 of 136
Yea i just wished for 4.8 5.0 redface.gif

Look like i settle at 4.4
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post #122 of 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by bonami2 View Post

Yea i just wished for 4.8 5.0 redface.gif

Look like i settle at 4.4
Not on a Hyper 212 unfortunately mate. Also remember that these chips can handle WELL in excess of 1.55v. And it will take that sort of voltage to get in the 4.8-5GHz zone. So don't feel sad.
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post #123 of 136
my hyper 212 can take it there.... i dont care 75c in prime 95 lol


Of what i know fx 4000 6000 max temp is 70c and 8000 60
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post #124 of 136
Quote:
my hyper 212 can take it there....
Yep. On my Hyper 212+ push/pull airflow up fans, Im at 68 - 72C core max (62 - 65C max socket) prime95 small FFTs @ 1.488v, 4.9 ghz (251 X 19.5).


Bonami2, on your picture here:




Compare what they do to the chips on the Sabertooth and Crosshair 990 boards.



That simple back bar heatsink is a mod that could be done on the M5A9 boards without disturbing the thermal pads on the frontside vrm heatsink. smile.gif It could help, at least Asus thought so. Those front vrm heatsinks arent so heavy that they need bar reinforcement, lol. tongue.gif
    
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post #125 of 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by bonami2 View Post

my hyper 212 can take it there.... i dont care 75c in prime 95 lol


Of what i know fx 4000 6000 max temp is 70c and 8000 60
New information thanks to AMD 's own Overdrive software has shown us that all FX chips have a max temp of 72C.

CPmee how does one go about doing the bar mod for the VRM sinks? I am definitely interested in anything that can reduce my temps even the tiniest bits. Not that it's too hot. But I am always interested in less heat.
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post #126 of 136
Quote:
CPmee how does one go about doing the bar mod for the VRM sinks? I am definitely interested in anything that can reduce my temps even the tiniest bits. Not that it's too hot. But I am always interested in less heat.
Yep, same here. And it could help if my back fan died and I didnt notice it for a while.

Heres a picture of the backside area and chips of the M5A99 boards. (interesting to note that the M5A97 boards dont have those chips. And that the M5A97 LE board doesnt even have that left pin hole)



For relative sizing, the cpu backplate clip holder is 4 3/8" long by 2 7/16" wide by a little over 1/8" (.14" thick at its widest). The square hole in the middle is approx 1" X 1". The push pin vrm heatsink holder holes, marked by the red arrows, are about 1/8th inch in diameter.

This is how I would do it IF I DIDNT HAVE A CASE WITH A BACKPLANE HOLE IN IT. In other words, similar to how Asus has done it.

Acquire a 5 inch piece of 1/6th thick aluminum bar, from 1/2" to 3/4" wide (it looks like Asus used about 1/2").
You dont want to disturb the vrm heatsink thermal pads, so I would hold down the vrm heatsink on the front with one hand while with the other hand with needle nose pliers pinch and push up the ends of the plastic push pins ends on the backside and take the pins out.
I would then take the cut aluminum bar, center and line it up so that no high solder component tips touch the bar.
Then I would take a black fine tip magic marker and from the front mark where the holes need to be drilled in the bar.
I would then drill the holes and lap the bar so thats its flat and smooth.
I would apply teeny tiny dots of my favorite non conductive thermal paste to the center tops of each of those 8 chips.
I would use small nuts and bolts, with the head on the backside (counter sinking them slightly if need be), to hold both the vrm heatsink and the aluminum bar instead of the original plastic push pins. (It looks like Asus used rivets or threaded the bar on the Sabertooth and Crosshair models) Or since I already have the tools to do so, I might thread the bar and use very short bolts.


Since I do have a case with a backplane area hole in it, I may use thicker aluminum bar or even an aluminum strip with fins on it chopped up from an old heatsink, once I figure out clearances.

I have lots of different size aluminum bar material, so its no cost and no problemo for me. For those that dont, sources are hardware stores or home centers or hobby stores. Also, cheap aluminum rulers could be a source. Flat aluminum bar material of this short length and size isnt all that hard to find. For example, it may be on a hinge of an aluminum folding chair that needs to be scrapped. smile.gif
Electrical supply places may even carry copper bar at these sizes, but I wouldnt layout much for this mod. If you want top heat conducting then layout for silver bar, heh. (probably be less than $75)
Edited by cpmee - 4/14/14 at 3:32am
    
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post #127 of 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmeway! url= 
Quote:
CPmee how does one go about doing the bar mod for the VRM sinks? I am definitely interested in anything that can reduce my temps even the tiniest bits. Not that it's too hot. But I am always interested in less heat.
Yep, same here. And it could help if my back fan died and I didnt notice it for a while.

Heres a picture of the backside area and chips of the M5A99 boards. (interesting to note that the M5A97 boards dont have those chips. And that the M5A97 LE board doesnt even have that left pin hole)



For relative sizing, the cpu backplate clip holder is 4 3/8" long by 2 7/16" wide by a little over 1/8" (.14" thick at its widest). The square hole in the middle is approx 1" X 1". The push pin vrm heatsink holder holes, marked by the red arrows, are about 1/8th inch in diameter.

This is how I would do it IF I DIDNT HAVE A CASE WITH A BACKPLANE HOLE IN IT. In other words, similar to how Asus has done it.

Acquire a 5 inch piece of 1/6th thick aluminum bar, from 1/2" to 3/4" wide (it looks like Asus used about 1/2").
You dont want to disturb the vrm heatsink thermal pads, so I would hold down the vrm heatsink on the front with one hand while with the other hand with needle nose pliers pinch and push up the ends of the plastic push pins ends on the backside and take the pins out.
I would then take the cut aluminum bar, center and line it up so that no high solder component tips touch the bar.
Then I would take a black fine tip magic marker and from the front mark where the holes need to be drilled in the bar.
I would then drill the holes and lap the bar so thats its flat and smooth.
I would apply teeny tiny dots of my favorite non conductive thermal paste to the center tops of each of those 8 chips.
I would use small nuts and bolts, with the head on the backside (counter sinking them slightly if need be), to hold both the vrm heatsink and the aluminum bar instead of the original plastic push pins. (It looks like Asus used rivets or threaded the bar on the Sabertooth and Crosshair models) Or since I already have the tools to do so, I might thread the bar and use very short bolts.


Since I do have a case with a backplane area hole in it, I may use thicker aluminum bar or even an aluminum strip with fins on it chopped up from an old heatsink, once I figure out clearances.

I have lots of different size aluminum bar material, so its no cost and no problemo for me. For those that dont, sources are hardware stores or home centers or hobby stores. Also, cheap aluminum rulers could be a source. Flat aluminum bar material of this short length and size isnt all that hard to find. For example, it may be on a hinge of an aluminum folding chair that needs to be scrapped. smile.gif
Electrical supply places may even carry copper bar at these sizes, but I wouldnt layout much for this mod. If you want top heat conducting then layout for silver bar, heh. (probably be less than $75)
Thanks man! +1 coming your way.

Now if you are right about the Asus 970 boards not having those MOSFET chips then it provides the evidence that I have Been looking for that the 970's phases, although 6+2 like the 990 boards, they are not as robust or powerful as the 990 boards. This shows that just because the 970 Asus boards are 6+2 they are not as good as their bigger brothers.

My GPU'S are going diving soon. And I over catered for RAM and VRM heatsinks. So I think I shall put some of those to the back of my mobo on those chips. However I want to have a bar as well. The reason being is I do not think the push pin style is as strong or provides as much mounting pressure as I would like. So I am going to have to do some work on that. I remember my MSI 990FX-GD65 board. The VRM sink is screwed in. And because of that I replaced the thermal pads with MX-4. But I wanted to do it on my last M5A990FX PRO R2.0 and I discovered that there is a huge gap between the sink and the chips. Meaning a thick thermal pad had to be used. I could not use my MX-4. In the end I had to RMA that board (I wonder why LoL) and I haven't played with the sink since. But now that I have this new info I think I am going to experiment!
Edited by Alastair - 4/14/14 at 4:50am
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post #128 of 136
Hmm..dump board and get m4a89gtd pro? Ch4? CH5? 890-990FXE? biggrin.gif
No one's mentioned checking RAM timings or raising CPU/NB and NB voltage.
http://www.techpowerup.com/186056/amd-super-pi-history-to-be-rewritten-courtesy-the-stilt.html a bit off-topic but..
 
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post #129 of 136
Quote:
Now if you are right about the Asus 970 boards not having those MOSFET chips then it provides the evidence that I have Been looking for that the 970's phases, although 6+2 like the 990 boards, they are not as robust or powerful as the 990 boards. This shows that just because the 970 Asus boards are 6+2 they are not as good as their bigger brothers.
Of course Im right. I thought I was wrong once, but was mistaken, heh. tongue.gif

Back of M5A970 R2




Back of M5A970 LE R2




Yeah, those extra chips must be doing something good, otherwise why spend the cost, time and effort to put them on ? Bonami2 deserves credit for measuring the temps of those hot little suckers. Even though I have an infrared thermometer, I doubt if I would have thought to measure back side temps. redface.gif

Now to look at the backsides of some Gigabyte boards. wink.gif
GA-78LMT-USB3 = no chips
GA-970A-UD3P = no chips
GA-990FXA-UD3 = no chips
GA-990FXA-UD5 = no chips
GA-990FXA-UD7 = no chips

So we can deduce that those chips have to do with New DIGI+ Power Control, which the M5A970 and Gigabyte boards dont have.
Quote:
I wanted to do it on my last M5A990FX PRO R2.0 and I discovered that there is a huge gap between the sink and the chips. Meaning a thick thermal pad had to be used. I could not use my MX-4. In the end I had to RMA that board (I wonder why LoL)
Because of that heatpipe that connects the vrm sink and north bridge sink, you have to be careful. Thats why I would want to keep the vrm sink very steady when doing this mod.
Edited by cpmee - 4/14/14 at 5:50am
    
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post #130 of 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmee View Post

Quote:
Now if you are right about the Asus 970 boards not having those MOSFET chips then it provides the evidence that I have Been looking for that the 970's phases, although 6+2 like the 990 boards, they are not as robust or powerful as the 990 boards. This shows that just because the 970 Asus boards are 6+2 they are not as good as their bigger brothers.
Of course Im right. I thought I was wrong once, but was mistaken, heh. tongue.gif

Back of M5A970 R2




Back of M5A970 LE R2




Yeah, those extra chips must be doing something good, otherwise why spend the cost, time and effort to put them on ? Bonami2 deserves credit for measuring the temps of those hot little suckers. Even though I have an infrared thermometer, I doubt if I would have thought to measure back side temps. redface.gif

Now to look at the backsides of some Gigabyte boards. wink.gif
GA-78LMT-USB3 = no chips
GA-970A-UD3P = no chips
GA-990FXA-UD3 = no chips
GA-990FXA-UD5 = no chips
GA-990FXA-UD7 = no chips

So we can deduce that those chips have to do with New DIGI+ Power Control, which the M5A970 and Gigabyte boards dont have.
Quote:
I wanted to do it on my last M5A990FX PRO R2.0 and I discovered that there is a huge gap between the sink and the chips. Meaning a thick thermal pad had to be used. I could not use my MX-4. In the end I had to RMA that board (I wonder why LoL)
Because of that heatpipe that connects the vrm sink and north bridge sink, you have to be careful. Thats why I would want to keep the vrm sink very steady when doing this mod.
Thank you! I shall put those in the Vishera Owners club for future reference. Of course all credit goes to you! thumb.gif Now I don't know how hot they are getting on my board because they have a backside fan blowing on them,. But they never get hot to the touch. Definitely nowhere near 113C tongue.gif But still. The sinks must go on! MOAR POWA!!!!!!!!!!!!! biggrin.gif

Yes I would also assume that those chips have something to do with the Digi+ settings. Maybe they somehow help provide the 130% 140% current options to the CPU and the CPU/NB. Although can't some of the 970 boards do that as well?
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