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First Loop and I have some questions. - Page 11

post #101 of 190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

You have copper, nickel, brass, and the solder in the rads is made of pewter (or tin?).
And, the EK cpu block has a stainless steel jet plate (wetted part). Not sure about the HK thought.
I'd just assume the HK stainless is wetted to be on the safe side.

Alphacool fittings are all brass on the inside, plated only on the outside. I wish I had known that before I bought most of my fittings.....woulda removed at least the nickel from my loop.

IMHO, we all should use anti-corrosion juice in our soup.

Ok good, cause I did include it in my order. I didn't order Alphacool fittings though, I got bitspower compression fittings. As Unicr0nhunter pointed out though, they're brass with a plating as well.

I'm looking at motherboards for my computer, and I'd like native linux support for the mobo components, can you tell me what board you use on Ubuntu / Mint (and the versions) and how your support was "out of the box" ?
post #102 of 190
I've never worried about a Linux supported mobo.
I don't even know that such a thing exits ?!?!
Aren't they all Linux compatible?
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post #103 of 190
Thread Starter 
Often times (most of the time, it seems), the kernel doesn't detect the different components on the mobo. So you'll install everything, boot up, and expect to have internet access, but there's no driver for your ethernet controller (good luck googling that problem). Same thing with bluetooth, wifi, audio controllers... it's all pretty hit or miss.
post #104 of 190
Yeah, on my last build, some 8 years ago, Linux would not see my sata HDDs.
I am a bit rusty on Linux supported hardware....again, it's been 8 years.
I just never expect everything to work out of the box.
For sure X-fire and SLI won't work on Linux....not that you'd really need it anyways.
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post #105 of 190
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So I'm now thinking about this positive pressure business. Should I have maybe the front radiator blowing in to the case, and the top radiator blowing out of it.. and then maybe put an additional fan on the back blowing in, to keep positive pressure in the case and help with dust? Or do I need to figure this out some other way, because blowing warm air in to the case seems like a dumb idea.
post #106 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by e64462 View Post

So I'm now thinking about this positive pressure business. Should I have maybe the front radiator blowing in to the case, and the top radiator blowing out of it.
That would be similar to running a rad sandwich. The air from the front rad will get blown into the top rad.
Quote:
and then maybe put an additional fan on the back blowing in, to keep positive pressure in the case and help with dust? Or do I need to figure this out some other way, because blowing warm air in to the case seems like a dumb idea.

Well, if your rads are sucking air into your case, your air cooled components will run a couple degrees warmer while your water cooled ones will run a couple degrees cooler.

I suggest you have both rads sucking into your case. That way, they both get fresh air and you get positive pressure. And have every other available case fans exhausting air out. You can also remove your free PCI slot thingy things to increase air exhaust.

But this is all academics. Once you have your rads installed in the face and roof, flipping your fans around to see what works best becomes easy.
Edited by PepeLapiu - 4/9/14 at 3:59pm
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post #107 of 190
Here is what our water cooling gure, Martin of MML, has to say about rad airflow direction:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

The trick with rad sizing is the installation where grill restriction, poor case air flow, and recycling of heat can easily cut performance in half or worse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

Also are both rads pushing air out of the case?
You don't want to recycle air through rads..thats a goo way to loose most of their efficiency.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

Yeah, don't bother...doesn't work in water cooling unless you planned to run ultra high speed 4000+RPM fans in push/rad/push/rad/pull type setup.

Bottom line, you need fresh cold air entering each radiator. Recycling already warmed air is bad juju..biggrin.gif
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post #108 of 190
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

I suggest you have both rads sucking into your case. That way, they both get fresh air and you get positive pressure. And have every other available case fans exhausting air out.
Ugh, I have no intuition for these things at all, it's so counterintuitive... my naive guess would be that having more air pumping in to the case would cause dust to accumulate FASTER, not slower. It also sounds crazy to talk about blowing warm air in to your case. Who am I to argue with science though?
post #109 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by e64462 View Post

Ugh, I have no intuition for these things at all, it's so counterintuitive... my naive guess would be that having more air pumping in to the case would cause dust to accumulate FASTER, not slower. It also sounds crazy to talk about blowing warm air in to your case. Who am I to argue with science though?
If you have dust filters where the rads are located it shouldn't be much of a problem. With negative pressure though you will have dust being sucked in to every little crack it can get into. Either way you're going to get some dust though which is why it's always nice to have something like a data vac. One of these can clear out all that dust in no time.

As far as blowing more heat in the case from having the air enter through the rads, it shouldn't be a problem as long as some air is getting out. Nothing should get warm enough to make a difference.
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post #110 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by e64462 View Post

Ugh, I have no intuition for these things at all, it's so counterintuitive... my naive guess would be that having more air pumping in to the case would cause dust to accumulate FASTER, not slower. It also sounds crazy to talk about blowing warm air in to your case. Who am I to argue with science though?

The idea of positive pressure is this:

Ya put filters on all your intake fans. That way, all air that goes in is dust free. So if air creaps through the cracks and crannies, it will be inside air going out, if you have positive pressure

But if you have negative pressure (more air being pushed out) than the air that creaps through the cracks will be dusty outside air, going into the case..

Makes sense?

Now about blowing rad air:

You have a choice, you can blow your warm rad air onto your air cooled components into your case. Or you can use your air cooled warmed up air into your rads.
One way your air cooled components suffer, the other way your water cooled components suffer.
Loose/loose. That's the P.I.T.A. of rads in your case.

If that stops you from sleeping at night, get external rads instead.

Either way, your are using warm air to cool sonething. You pick which one you prefer.
It will make a difference of a couple of degrees on either your air cooled stuff, or a couple degrees on your water cooled stuff.

But if you use one rad's air into the second one, might as well not even bother with the second rad. It will be crippled to almost completely useles that way.
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