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First Loop and I have some questions. - Page 15

post #141 of 190
Yeah its strange that the system would keep rebooting. It should not make any difference at all. The fan controller is a separate device.

The pump is designed so it is controlled manually with the dial on the back. To use a controller on it you need to either change the wiring from a molex to three pin or use an adaptor like this;
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2345
That combines the molex power and speed signal into one 3 pin connector.
Edited by Jakusonfire - 4/16/14 at 1:49am
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post #142 of 190
the RPM wire only reports, it does not control the pump in any way. Even more-so, there is no need to adjust pump speed to accommodate for temps. What you'll wan't to do is set it as high as it can go without being too loud, and leave it....3~3.5 is about perfect.

I had one of those Alphacool res's without the d5 on the back. the port is REALLY hard to turn, you sure it's tight enough???

and 2, is it over-full??? res's do need some air space to ebb&flow. I run these lil buggers (may not be applicable in your situation unless you mount it on the top-side of your top rad) but it will help you to understand what may be going on.

http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p14082_Aquacomputer-pressure-equalization-membrane-G1-4--high-version.html/XTCsid/09skll0k14fd82ad85mku1kre3
Edited by badtaylorx - 4/16/14 at 9:00am
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post #143 of 190
Thread Starter 
Okay guys, you were right... I plugged the fans directly in to the controller (again), bypassing the 3-way connector, and they started up fine... I'm now able to turn them up or down using the controller.

The pump is another story... I'll need to purchase an adapter for it or modify the wiring. I'm really quite apprehensive about stripping off the included connector and attaching a new one... I might do it anyways, we'll see....

The res still seems to have a leaking problem... In response to the suggestion to maybe tighten the fill port, It actually seems to leak MOST when the fill port is tightened... With the fill port pulled out (so it's sticking out of the reservoir), I've had no leaks. Of course if I started tipping the case with it like this, I'd probably have trouble.
post #144 of 190
I theorized before that controlling the pump's voltage from the controller instead of the pump's dial would reduce heat dump into the loop. But I tested this theory on the bench and it shows no dissernable differences in heat dump from the pump into the water.

So yeah, there aten't a lot of good reasons to have variable speed control on your pump.
But during bleeding, I like to ramp the pump up and down to loosen up the stubborn bubbles.
I also like to have my pump on the lowest setting while filling up.
Control from the front panel makes all that a bit easier.

Something funny thought....
The slowest the CW611 can dial down the pump is 60%, or 2400 rpm.
And 2400 rpm seems a bit more quiet when using the controller over the pump's dial.

But don't quote me on this. It could be merely wishful thinking on my part.
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post #145 of 190
Thread Starter 
Yeah, it's kind of a pain to open my case to modulate the pump... and since I have the channels to spare, I'd like to get the pump on the controller as well. I don't plan to vary the speed much, but the ease of it is appealing for noise testing / filling, etc.

I went out and bought the 3 pin molex housing / connectors.... I'm willing to modify the pump to plug in to the controller. Here's my understanding of the steps:

I need to remove the current 4-pin housing unit from the red / black cables providing power to the pump

I need to remove the 3-pin housing unit from the single blue cable that reports voltage

I need to strip down the wire tubing, and crimp the three cables to the 3-pin molex housing.

My question is, how do I know which cable goes in which hole on the 3-pin housing? Any thoughts?
post #146 of 190
You could just use one of the molex to 3 pin connecters you had hooked up to your fans to connect the pump to the controller. This way wouldn't show rpm's though since the blue cable will not be used. If you need to see the rpm's you can hook the 3 pin with the blue wire to a fan connector on the mobo and use software to check it. Plugging it in to another channel on the fan controller might also show the rpm's but I'm not sure.
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post #147 of 190
Thread Starter 
Maybe I'll try that when I get home. I'm not sure the housing configuration is right on the adapter but I'll check, because that's a lot easier
post #148 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by e64462 View Post

Yeah, it's kind of a pain to open my case to modulate the pump... and since I have the channels to spare, I'd like to get the pump on the controller as well. I don't plan to vary the speed much, but the ease of it is appealing for noise testing / filling, etc.

I went out and bought the 3 pin molex housing / connectors.... I'm willing to modify the pump to plug in to the controller. Here's my understanding of the steps:

I need to remove the current 4-pin housing unit from the red / black cables providing power to the pump

I need to remove the 3-pin housing unit from the single blue cable that reports voltage

I need to strip down the wire tubing, and crimp the three cables to the 3-pin molex housing.

My question is, how do I know which cable goes in which hole on the 3-pin housing? Any thoughts?

What you are suggesting can be more complicated than you think.
In order to fit your pump's Molex size wires into a fan connector, you will need to find the following:

- a spare 3-pin female fan connector
- 3x female crimps
- a crimp tool. good luck doing it with snips. No way i could do that.

But I have an even easier way for you.
All you will need is a 3-pin fan connector with the
3 wires still attached. Something like this:
https://www.allpinouts.org/images/6/67/Connector_mb_fan_3pin.jpg

Can you find that? It can be cut from an old 3-pin fan you have laying around. If you can find that, I can show you how to connect it to your pump.

Or an even easier option would be to send your pump to someone who can crimp it for you.
I can do that. It would take me all of 10 minutes. But you might not trust a stranger over the net with a brand new 90$ D5 pump.
Edited by PepeLapiu - 4/16/14 at 6:03pm
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post #149 of 190
Thread Starter 
Yeah, the female 3-pin on this adapter that came with the fans isn't an option. There's only one cable going in to it, I'm pretty sure I can't power the pump off of that

@Pepe, I actually have all that stuff.. the housing, the crimps, and the tool... the more nerve racking thing is stripping off all the current housing / crimps and stripping the pump wire to use the new housing that has me nervous. I'm guessing if I need to return my res / pump combo back to frozencpu (for the leak problem) that modifying the wiring is going to void any warranty that they offer.
post #150 of 190
I am getting confused here.
Can you provide a pic of the pump's cables and connectors?
And a pic of the fan's cables and connectors?
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