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First Loop and I have some questions. - Page 8

post #71 of 190
Thread Starter 
Honestly, I don't see any mention of the ST30s in that image anywhere. It does have the UT60s though.... to be honest I was thinking of saving some money and taking blazed_1's advice by going push only on both rads... But based on what you're telling me if I go push only at low RPMs (probably with the AR-14's again to save some money), then I should get dual ST30s rather than an ST30 and a UT60
post #72 of 190
Id say for sure leave room for a push/pull setup... even if you dont buy the fans now.... this way you can add them down the road when you decide you want to ry the next hobbyist thing and overclock something :-p
post #73 of 190
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I guess Pepe did say that I wouldn't be able to detect a difference between the UT60 and the ST30 without precise tools... so I'll stay with my current plan of getting one of each, rather than dual 30's. I'm currently shopping around trying to find the best prices on things... I think I'm going to go with the GT AR-14's rather than the suggested GT AR-45's just because they operate closer to the speeds I expect to be working at, come at a nicer price tag, and are MUCH cheaper to ship (since there are distributors in the US right now).

Thanks again for everyone's input... You guys have corrected so many errors I would've made already, so please don't hesitate to keep the suggestions coming.
post #74 of 190
AP-14 I think you mean.
But yeah, if you go with 120.4 instead of 120.2, than the AP-45's 2150 rpm is not as important to get.

And as far as rads go, the Alphacool ones are also just about the cheapest you can get.
The workmanship on them could be improved on according to some people.

You will have to rince them thoroughly for sure. Sometimes they do have some flux and other crap left inside.
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post #75 of 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by e64462 View Post

Honestly, I don't see any mention of the ST30s in that image anywhere.

Mea culpa.....here you go:
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/alphacoolst30-th2.png
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post #76 of 190
Thread Starter 
I know that several people have recommended EK water blocks, but I'm pretty nervous about the one I linked in the opening post, for the following reasons: I was reviewing the return policy on FrozenCPU's website, and they say I have to return incompatible parts within 7 days AND I have to pay a 20% restocking fee; that's bull****, considering how many non-reference PCBs are out there. Manufacturer's don't have complete foolproof compatibility lists either, and mine in particular has only been verified for compatibility "visually". When you factor in the shipping costs that start building up to ship incompatible parts back to FrozenCPU.. I'd rather go with a part with verified compatibility. I did some googling, and about the only thing that I can find is:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15718/ex-blc-1097/HEATKILLER_GPU-X_GTX_680_LT_Reference_Design_Full_Coverage_Water_Block_13105.html

and from:
Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/wahegpgtx680.html View Post

Update 5-17-2012 We have confirmed this block works with some GTX 670 cards, such as p/n GV-N670OC-2GD from Gigabyte. See the attached images.

This seems like maybe the way to go. What do you guys think? Is heatkiller a good brand, or should I risk it and go with EK?

The other thing to consider, is that FrozenCPU isn't stocking the EK cooler at the moment, while the heatkiller is in stock.
post #77 of 190
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

Mea culpa.....here you go:
http://martinsliquidlab.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/alphacoolst30-th2.png

Ah Yes, there it is! =p
post #78 of 190
HK is a very good brand. thumb.gif
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post #79 of 190
Thread Starter 
I've started shopping for barbs now. I'm probably going to go for 1/2" ID tubing, and pursuant to suggestions I've received I'll go with Primochill primoflex LRT tubing.

I'm trying to look at the geometry of the situation.... to decide if I should get barbs with a bend in them.

My Thoughts are:

for the pump: straight barbs

for the top radiator: one 90 degree bend (for intake) one straight for exhaust

for the CPU: probably two straight

for the GPU: two 90 degree bends

for the bottom radiator: two straight

Any critiques?

I'm going to do the 1/2" barbs with 7/16" ID tubing I think, just for the funsies.
post #80 of 190
Make sure that tubing is the Advanced version. The older Primochill tubing had some problems with clouding up but the newer Advanced LRT looks pretty good so far. If you want to go with barbs, 1/2" barbs with 7/16 ID - 5/8 OD tubing works great. That's what I used on my first setup and never had a problem with leaks even with no clamps or zip ties holding it on. It can be a tight squeeze going on though. If you want to try compression fittings the ones XSPC make work really well and don't break the bank. I'm not sure how you plan to set up your loop so I can't really say if you will need any angled fittings but they are nice to have when you need to make a sharp bend.
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