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First WC Setup. 3d Model included.

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Hey OCN!

So I've been putting this off as long as I could, but I just can't help but wait until its complete.

I did tons and tons of research on exactly what I want, how I want it to look, and how to get it there.
I'm on a limited budget, so in order to save money, i spent an entire day building a mach-up of a 3d model of how I Was going to route my lines, and what fittings to buy.

My system is in a corsair 500r case, i7 3770k, asrock z77 formula mobo, 2x8gb of Kingston hyper x best 2400 ram, and the GTX670 FTW 4GB GPU which will be included into the loop. The GTX650 and GTS 450 will be not in the loop.
I've been at 4.5ghz for almost a year with the H100 radiator @ 1.205V. But it's time for me to upgrade and join the 5ghz club biggrin.gif


My plan is to buy the
Swiftech MCP655-B 12v DC Watercooling Pump w/Tach Sensor
Phobya Balancer 150 Silver Nickel
XSPC Raystorm CPU Block for Intel Socket LGA 1156, 1155, 1366, and 2011
XSPC Razor nVidia GTX 680 Full Coverage VGA Block - Black - Reference Design (new style)
Antimicrobial fine silver-
Durelene Tubing 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD @10 feet.


1 Phobya 13mm (1/2') Fitting G1/4 with O-Ring - Knurling - Short - Black Nickel Plated
3 Phobya 19/13mm (1/2-3/4") Compression Fitting 45° Revolvable G1/4 - Compact - Black Nickel
1 Phobya 19/13mm (1/2-3/4") Compression Fitting 90° Revolvable G1/4 - Compact - Black Nickel
2 Phobya Angled 90° Adaptor Revolvable G1/4" to G1/4" Inner Thread - Cuboid - Matte Black Plated
2 Bitspower G1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD 30-Degree Dual Rotary Compression Fitting - Black Sparkle
1 Bitspower Multi-Transfer Base (Coupler) - Black Sparkle
2 Phobya 19/13mm (1/2-3/4") Compression Fitting Straight G1/4 - Black Nickel Plated

As you can see in the 3d model, I created all the fittings and tested out dozens of different ways to route it all.
Everything else is blocked in lol, but they are to scale.
I ended up creating over 20 fittings, which took all day, but it looks like it paid off.

My reservoir return and out to the pump will both be fitted at the bottom of the Phoyba Balancer 150 reservoir.. I don't want a fitting on the top of the reservoir to make ease of access to add water.

My Radiator which I already own from a previous OIL PC build (Magicool Extreme Dual 180mm x 35mm Slim Radiator (MC-RADI180X2)
) will be located under my desk out of sight, out of mind along with two SILVERSTONE FM181 180mm Case cooler I own as well.

I Hope i'm not embarrassing my self here LOL!
I appreciate any advice or constructive criticism or something I have missed to help me reach my goal.

Thank you in advance.

Image
post #2 of 13
Thread Starter 
I don't know why the photo didn't show up.
Here.

post #3 of 13
I would suggest getting 7/16" tubing, as they stay on fittings even without compression. You would more than likely have a much harder time using 1/2" ID tubing. And as always, the layout it my mind is Reservoir -> Pump -> Radiator -> CPU -> GPU -> And back to reservoir. I also use PTNuke in my system and have not had any bacteria, but I also use straight distilled water.

EDIT: Typo
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post #4 of 13
Thread Starter 
Interesting about the 1/2" tubing you say could "pop off"??? Is this a real thing?

Also, I'm running Reservoir > Pump > CPU > GPU > Radiator > Reservoir.
I want the water going into the Pump to be cooled down, to extend the life of the pump.. I Guess.

Thanks Smokeydabear!
post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
I've also heard nothing but horror stories about running additives in the loop. Creating thick hard black gum of corrosion on the blocks?
post #6 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by leblanc980 View Post

Interesting about the 1/2" tubing you say could "pop off"??? Is this a real thing?

Also, I'm running Reservoir > Pump > CPU > GPU > Radiator > Reservoir.
I want the water going into the Pump to be cooled down, to extend the life of the pump.. I Guess.

Thanks Smokeydabear!

1/2" inner diameter has the slight chance that can come loose due to the pressure, but if the compression fittings you purchase are able to hold 1/2" inner diameter tubing, than go for it. I just always think better safe than sorry, so getting 7/16" inner diameter tubing is a great idea IMO.

The reason that you want the radiator in line before the CPU and GPU is to ensure that you get the best possible temperatures. That way, when the water is cooled, it enters the CPU block and GPU block at the absolute minimum temperature possible for the loop.
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post #7 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by leblanc980 View Post

I've also heard nothing but horror stories about running additives in the loop. Creating thick hard black gum on the blocks?

Thick black gummy materials can be found in some tubing where they use plasticizer, or an additive that is not meant to be run. I've heard of Pentosin anti-freeze for European cars, and did run some, but every test result will tell you, distilled water is the best, and usually lowest temperature.

PTNuke itself is more of a biocide, and not an additive. It is more for killing germs and bacteria, than anything else. Harmful if swallowed though.
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post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
I'm totally picking up what your laying down about the coolest temperatures hitting the CPU First. I guess the reservoir does hold the potential of holding some warm water. Has there been any tests in the past that could verify this biggrin.gif

Again, appreciate the help.
post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Yeah. I was going to run 100% Distilled water as it is on a ready supply because it's all I drink.
post #10 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by leblanc980 View Post

I'm totally picking up what your laying down about the coolest temperatures hitting the CPU First. I guess the reservoir does hold the potential of holding some warm water. Has there been any tests in the past that could verify this biggrin.gif

Again, appreciate the help.

The reservoir basically feeds the pump the water, so any quality reservoir that you can buy for water cooling should readily be able to hold warm, or even hot water.
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