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post #11 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoid.srg View Post

If you properly sterilize your loop before assembly you wont need silver or any other biocides. For biological growth to occur you need to have a steady presence of microorganisms, by eliminating said microorganisms you can acchieve a loop that is 100% free of biological growth.

@ pepelapiu
The galvanic index is only relevant for metals that are in physical contact with eachother, for metals submerged in electrolysis you need to refer the standard electrode potential.

1) That is very risky. Even if you pasteurize it and your loop is sterile, as you open the res to top up while bleeding, you will likely allow life forms to get into the loop.

2) As each metals dissolve ions into the water, they will eventually get in direct contact. So both your chart and mine apply here. Just taste your water after a year running. It will likely have a metallic taste. That's direct metal to metal contact for you
Edited by PepeLapiu - 4/11/14 at 9:51am
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post #12 of 22
And OP, here is my plan of attack for this build.
All my tubing will be copper, as I am tired of dealing with plastisizer probs.
All my blocks will be bare copper with plexy tops so I can spot any corrosion or blockage on quick visual inspection.
My EK CPU block has a stainless steel jet plate. I'll be making my own jet plate out of clear acrylic or acetal to remove the SS from my loop.
All fittings will be Alphacool as they are bare brass inside, not plated on the wetted parts.
And no silver for me thanx. I'll use Mayhem's X1 as a biocide and anti-corrosion. Why bring silver into the soup when other alternatives exist?

And still, I will innevitably be mixing metals: copper on blocks, rads, and pipes, tin or pewter on rad solder, and brass on fittings and rad parts.
But tin, brass and copper are very close on the galvanic chart. But silver and stainless steel, not so much.
So the X1 should take care of the relaively low chance of corrosion between copper, brass, and tin.

That's my plan anyways.

Cheers cheers.gif
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post #13 of 22
Thread Starter 
That sounds like a pretty good plan Pepe, I'll be going with a full copper-block build with the inevitable addition of brass and the extra protection of a silver coil, IandH copper sulfate, and tygon's silver tubing which looks amazing in my opinion. The tygon silver will prevent biological growth from developing in the tubing while the IandH drops and the silver coil will provide longterm protection of the distilled water. Personally, I'd avoid using too many additives, but I've heard great things from using IandH drops.

Good plan for both I'd say, cheers thumb.gif
post #14 of 22
I think.you are way too worried about biocides.
You got the silver tubing, which is a biocide, the skc which is also a biocide, and the landh, which is a third biocide.

And you have absolutely nothing.to protect for corrosion..
Too worried about algea, and not worried enough about corrosion.
Loose two of your biocides, maybe the landh, and get an anti-corrision in there.

Yes, too many additives will reduce efficiency. So X1 clear only for me.
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post #15 of 22
Btw, one sure way of completely avoiding algea and microbial growth is to get your loop in the complete darkness
Not a popular option as too many want a clear res. And it's hard to see water levels without any light going through.

But no light, compkete darkness will prevent 100% against algea. It's a plant and they can't live without light.
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post #16 of 22
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I imagine light would help to reduce algae. I'll see about limiting my LED use haha. Thanks for the help bud.
post #17 of 22
I used to grow hydroponic "tomatoes".
I used a 60 gallon reservoir filling with nutrients dissolved in water to be delivered to the "tomatoes" at timed intervals.
Now that reservoir has enormous potential for algea.
Imagine that, water filled with plant food....an algea magnet.
But all I had to do is completely seal the ligh from getting into the reservoir. And I mean complet darkness.
One little speck of light is enough for the algea.to grow there, just a pin size hole is all it takes.

But once I got it completely blacked out, there was no algea growth.
An amazing success for such a breeding grown to algea.

But again, not a popular option for WCers.
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post #18 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

Btw, one sure way of completely avoiding algea and microbial growth is to get your loop in the complete darkness
Not a popular option as too many want a clear res. And it's hard to see water levels without any light going through.

But no light, compkete darkness will prevent 100% against algea. It's a plant and they can't live without light.

There are forms of algae that grow in near total darkness, most that we see commonly do need a lot of light. A strong enough UV light kills algae. With several manufacturers not honoring their warranty if you use any silver in the loop has caused me to stop using kill coils. Just distilled h20 and ptnuke, it works for me.
post #19 of 22
Algea is a plant.
Plants need light to survive.
No light equals no algea.
No plant can survive in complete darkness.
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post #20 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by bounti View Post

Hello, can anyone tell me where I can find 45 and 90-degree angle Bitspower True Silver Fittings?

I can't seem to find them anywhere, not even on the website: http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/product02.aspx?kind=58&kind2=58

It seems strange to me that the shining silver and black fittings would come in these angles and the true silver would not?

Thanks!
Shifting gears a little bit back to the original question from the first post:

You could likely get any fitting in BP's catalog in any of their finishes if you ordered it directly from them in Taiwan, regardless of whether that particular fitting/finish combination is listed in their catalog. That was the case for me when I ordered a bunch of red fittings for my build a few years ago, I got several pieces that weren't listed. The shipping was very expensive (to the east coast USA) but if you're looking for something specific and can't find it anywhere else, that's an option to consider.

About algae, just want to add that it's actually quite rare in watercooling loops and most people worry about it far more than is necessary. The most important steps are to flush out your parts before use, start with a sterile coolant such as distilled or a pre-mix, add your preferred biocide if not a premix, and keep the loop sealed. Then do your regular maintenance (replace coolant twice a year, tear-down and clean every year or two) and you won't have any growth.
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