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Budget Watercooling Kit? - Page 43

post #421 of 437
Thread Starter 

Well it has an anti-corrosive built in, as well as the biocide was all I was thinking about. I am using Distilled (Steam Distilled, Ozonated, UV Treated, etc) after flushing with some Aquafina during the leak test (what I had on hand at the time that was passable for use since the water I was planning on using had actually already been opened by someone when I wasn't looking) but I flushed the tubing out with well water (triple charcoal filter) using my shower hose before putting the Aquafina in.

     
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post #422 of 437
AQUAFINA!?!! YOU CANNOT USE ANY KIND OF DRINKING WATER.. NO MATTER HOW PURE IT SAYS IT IS.. IT MUST BE DISTILLED WATER..
charcoal filter will not create distilled water..
post #423 of 437
You would want distilled/de-ionized water because it doesnt contain any minerals and less chance try your components if it leaks. I still dont get what is so hard. Ususally the only process people are doing is to fluch the rads with hot water and shake and then flush them with little distilled water. Then mount all stuff. Forget all chemicals and all other BS stuff.
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post #424 of 437
Thread Starter 

You should read my post again, however I'll post a list of the steps I took.

1. Rinse tubing out with well water (triple charcoal filtered)

2. Hook everything back up into case to start leak test.

3. Oops someone was drinking my distilled water and got stuff in it.

4. I have some Aquafina let's see if it's ok to use. Checks a few things referenced in the essentials guides such as link. Which is admittedly 10 years old, however I could not leave the house at the time so I just ran some through for the leak test.

5. Leak test done, use a siphon and shop vac with tubing to remove water from reservoir.

6. Add distilled water, let it run for a bit to help flush out the Aquafina from tubes and repeat siphon.

7. Pour in more distilled water and check for leaks one last time.

 

As far as not running an anti-corrosive that's something that doesn't jibe with all of the guides I've been reading which say to use an anti-corrosive and a biocide regardless.

     
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post #425 of 437
Distilled water and a small amount (1oz) of antifreeze is all the anti-corrosive/biocide you need.. EK doesn't even recommend the use of silver killcoils any longer.

You can't go solely by guides for what to put in your fluid, as some of them are dated, biased, and have in some cases been real-world proven inaccurate/false.

This is one of the times where I would trust real world tested advice over book knowledge. Just read a few pages of the Watercooling club thread, most of the old heads in there are saying they use strictly Distilled water and nothing else.
Edited by Destrto - 5/11/14 at 7:34pm
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post #426 of 437
smh.. please dont use antifreeze... =| if you want to use coolant.. Use stuff DESIGNED FOR PC.. not automotive.. 50/50 of koolance premix and distilled water works fine. you can dilute most premixes. they usually contain anti corrosion and some form of biocide. all distilled is fine.. but thats more for an advanced or someone who knows what they are doing measuring additives. premix is your best bet with distilled.
post #427 of 437
Thread Starter 

Looks like I'd be waiting to add the Mayhems anyways. Performance-PCs screwed up and sent me the wrong stuff. They sent me Mayhems XT-1 Concentrate (which I think is more for sub-zero) instead of the Mayhems X1 Concentrate I ordered. Glad I checked the label again.

     
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post #428 of 437
Thread Starter 

So, my i7 4770k only has 1.28v running through it at 4.3GHz yet, it's usually above 88C and throttles a fair amount (With Prime 95 27.9 Blend and about the same just using x264...) I was having a leak at the inlet port on the reservoir, one of the fittings coming loose but my DVD drive caught the water on it's lid and I was able to dry it off and tighten it. I've remounted it a few times to see if that made a difference and it made a minor one. So I don't know if it's the loop or just a really hot 4770k.


Edited by phazer11 - 5/15/14 at 2:23pm
     
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post #429 of 437
Funny the fitting came lose. You must be carefull that you dont twist the tube when putting it on the fitting because that can make the compression fitting unscrew. A way to avoid it is to put the tube on the fitting a couple of times so it becomes "wider" and hopefully easier to just slip on. Appart from that your temps seem high but really you wont get that great performance with such a slim 30mm rad. I cant help you though, there can be many reasons your temps are not that great. The haswells are hot as hell from nature as mentioned before and I dont have any experiance with them. Whats your temps while in idle?

Also whats your OC settings, you have fixed voltage 1.28 or does it increase/decrease during 100% load?
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Western Digital WD15EADS 1.5TB Samsung 840 250GB Crucial MX100 256GB Alphacool Eisblock XPX 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool ST30 360mm Alphacool ST30 140mm Alphacool Eisbecher 150mm Alphacool VPP655 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Masterkleer (10/13mm) Compression fittings (10/13mm) Corsair SP120 High Performance Phobya 6 Touch 30W 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacomputer Kryographics Titan X (Pascal) Aquacomputer Active XCS backplate Watercool Heatkiller SW-X MB-Set Alphacool Monsta 240mm 
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Windows 7 Professional Retail AOC Agon ag271qx CM Storm Quickfire Rappid-I Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W 
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post #430 of 437
i dont think you are doing something right.. it should never hit 88c on water.. the MAX i get WITH both video cards under water is 50c MAX thats motherboard ram 2x video cards and oc cpu. something in your loop is wrong.. can you post pics of the entire setup? i mean like 10 pics. dont be sheisty! =)
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