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Budget Watercooling Kit? - Page 8

post #71 of 437
hmm, kit wise i'd stick with EK, not a big fan of XSPC as much as i use to be, EK products have great quality, i also heard Koolance does aswell, if you need me to try and piece a kit together i can, or i have enough parts for sale to build a kit for 250, worth alot more than 250 lol

when i tried to piece together my first kit, i used frozencpu as a database pretty much, then just searched for the parts on other websites, because frozencpu is so damn expensive lol, but they have pretty much everything
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post #72 of 437
If you can't get gentle typhoon fans, than anything else you get is pretty much the same dude.

I'll let someone else do the talking:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Honestly, there is no comparable fans to the Gentle Typhoons in terms of a balance of radiator airflow & noise, but a whole lot of others that come in a distant cumulative 2nd place - all comparably the same - take your pick. Just look at Martin's test results ...

Martin's Rad airflow to Noise level chart

Full size image link

That chart shows each fan's rad airflow to noise level curve. The closer the fan's curve is to the bottom right corner of the chart the better its balance is of radiator performance vs noise. As you can see, the Gentle Typhoon lineup stands well apart from all the others, or, if you really don't mind louder, but with a similar performance curve, then there's the Delta VHEs, but other than that they're all just one big glob bunched together so you can't hardly tell one from another.
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post #73 of 437
Do not just wire a bunch of fans into a single channel. Fans are controlled from what's called a potentiometer or pot for short. Basically it is a really long resistor with a little metal "wiper" that contacts the resistor. The wiper is literally the thing you spin or slide, it moves over the resistive material, and goes to your fan. Putting more power through the pot than it's rated for will literally make it explode, it will be an extremely small one and isn't dangerous but non the less it will destroy it. Like Pepe said, don't ask how i know that, there was a bright lite in my pot when i turned on my homemade controller followed by smokeand i wanted to see why so i ripped off the shell and put in another pot. biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxpantherrrxx View Post

I would never put dye in my water. I run straight distilled from the grocery store with a killcoil. That stuff will gunk up your pump and blocks over time No matter what the manufacturer
says.
i see much misinformation here, gunk is caused by a chemical reaction between propylene glycol or ethylene glycol and copper sulphate. It's such a problem because MANY coolants and even some ultrapures have a glycol in them and CuSo4 is such a popular brocide. Many people use crappy tubing and switch from plain water to coolant and all the sudden their loop is cloudy and quickly blame it on the coolant not realizing coolants are more prone to plasticizer leaching.
Edited by ZytheEKS - 4/13/14 at 8:10am
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post #74 of 437
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

Do not just wire a bunch of fans into a single channel. Fans are controlled from what's called a potentiometer or pot for short. Basically it is a really long resistor with a little metal "wiper" that contacts the resistor. The wiper is literally the thing you spin or slide, it moves over the resistive material, and goes to your fan. Putting more power through the pot than it's rated for will literally make it explode, it will be an extremely small one and isn't dangerous but non the less it will destroy it. Like Pepe said, don't ask how i know that, there was a bright lite in my pot when i turned on my homemade controller and i wanted to see why so i ripped off the shell and put in another pot. biggrin.gif
i see much misinformation here, gunk is caused by a chemical reaction between propylene glycol or ethylene glycol and copper sulphate. It's such a problem because MANY coolants and even some ultrapures have a glycol in them and CuSo4 is such a popular brocide. Many people use crappy tubing and switch from plain water to coolant and all the sudden their loop is cloudy and quickly blame it on the coolant not realizing coolants are more prone to plasticizer leaching.

Too often, whatever gunk or crap you find in your loop will be died the same color as the coolant die itself.
So than people tend to blame the die when it could be something entirely different.

And apparently, you can't run 40W of fans on a 30W channel......I'm still trying to figure that one out. rolleyes.gif
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post #75 of 437
Thread Starter 

Well I would only be putting two fans per one Y-connector which I've done with all of my CPU fans so far, including my current Excalibur fans.

I guess my biggest question is whether or not the AP-14's have sleeving by default or not. I would assume not since there is an option to add it. If they do I can skip out on the added sleeving and eat the extra shipping. The only Typhoons PPC has are the AP-11's.

 

Also what's the best kind of kill coil for me to get I hear they're a pain to install and you have to break down your loop each time you replace it, but that there are some easier to replace ones.


Edited by phazer11 - 4/13/14 at 8:43am
     
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post #76 of 437
Best kind of silver is none at all.
Silver is a metal, and there is no need to add more metals to the soup, further increasing your chances of galvanic corrosion.
I suggest PT nuke, or X1 from Mayhems instead.
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post #77 of 437
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

Best kind of silver is none at all.
Silver is a metal, and there is no need to add more metals to the soup, further increasing your chances of galvanic corrosion.
I suggest PT nuke, or X1 from Mayhems instead.
Agreed. I switched from a silver coil to PTNuke during my latest rebuild
post #78 of 437
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxpantherrrxx View Post

I would never put dye in my water. I run straight distilled from the grocery store with a killcoil. That stuff will gunk up your pump and blocks over time No matter what the manufacturer says.

 

The stuff that gunks up your loops when using dyes, etc. isn't the dye. It is plasticizer leeching from your tubing, which the dye then does............well dyes that plasticizer gunk. The particulate matter on dyes is far too small to cause any gunking up of your loop.

post #79 of 437
Thread Starter 

Anyone know if the AP-14's come sleeved normally?

 

Also I couldn't find any PT Nuke on PPC so I guess one of the only places is on sidewinder (which would be where I'd be getting it since I'd ship it with the fans) and how much should I need for the reservoir I have?

Also how often do you guys have to change your tubing?

     
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post #80 of 437
Normally, most fans don't come sleeved. Often resellers, such as Performance PCs, offer the option to sleeve the fans for you, sometimes for a small additional charge. Performance PCs doesn't sell PTNuke, but Mayhems Biocide Extreme and IandH DeadWater are basically the same thing. You really only need a few drops. Normally there are instructions on the bottle of how much to add per liter of water. The only time I ever change y tubing is if I change the routing of the tubes. Some of the pieces of tube I am using now have been the same pieces for about 3 years. If it isn't clouding, leeching plasticizer, or staining, I keep using the same tube over and over.
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