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post #81 of 437
Quote:
Originally Posted by phazer11 View Post

Anyone know if the AP-14's come sleeved normally?

Also I couldn't find any PT Nuke on PPC so I guess one of the only places is on sidewinder (which would be where I'd be getting it since I'd ship it with the fans) and how much should I need for the reservoir I have?
Also how often do you guys have to change your tubing?

Get Mayhems X1. It comes in clear, or colored.
It acts as both a biocide and anti-corrosion.
Anti-corrosion is more imoprtant than biocide IMHO.

And if you get Primochil Adcanxed LRT, you likely won't have to change your tubing ever.
Cheaper brands will require as many as 2-3 times a year.
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post #82 of 437
Thread Starter 

How often do you change your fluid 1-2 times a year or less unless you need to adjust something? Just curious so I can tell whether or not I want to get the Red X1 or the Biocide Extreme


Edited by phazer11 - 4/13/14 at 12:53pm
     
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post #83 of 437
Usually once a year for regular maintenance(cleaning clocks, thoroughly dusting rads, etc), unless I'm draining to add new hardware, then I change the coolant at that time as well. I have gone about 18 months without a coolant change and saw no difference when changing after a year.
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post #84 of 437
Keep in mind that red die will stain.
Blue, green, yellow, not so much.
But red, orange, or purple will stain.
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post #85 of 437
Thread Starter 

Ah so it'll stain the res. Something to consider, not really worried about it staining the tubing since it's red already. I guess I don't really need any unless I have a bay reservoir to help tell the levels since I don't have a plexiglass window in this case...


Edited by phazer11 - 4/13/14 at 2:02pm
     
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post #86 of 437
True, the reds a purples will cause staining. If you are still planning on going with the Bitspower Tube res, they do make a version that is red plexi instead of clear
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_657&products_id=30838
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post #87 of 437
Thread Starter 

To be honest I'm still trying to figure out where I'm going to mount it inside the case if I go with the bitspower, but I can't really spend much more, the red one you linked would probably be about the most I could get ($50). I figured pach might be able to help me out since his case is virtually identical. But he hasn't made a comment here in the past couple days.


Edited by phazer11 - 4/13/14 at 2:21pm
     
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post #88 of 437
Thread Starter 

Not sure where I'll mount the tube reservoir now that I get back to looking at the case (even without the monstrous air cooler). Here's the album I made when I put in the GTX 780 and tied my cables up and together, it's quite the rat's nest.


Edited by phazer11 - 4/13/14 at 6:37pm
     
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post #89 of 437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinaesthetic View Post

The stuff that gunks up your loops when using dyes, etc. isn't the dye. It is plasticizer leeching from your tubing, which the dye then does............well dyes that plasticizer gunk. The particulate matter on dyes is far too small to cause any gunking up of your loop.

Glycol and CuSo4 gunk, plasticizers deposit themselves in the gunk turning the gelatinous gunk into a much thicker more viscous gunk, making it harder to clean. Plasticizers in of themselves are way too small to gunk up or clog anything. I mean they look like crap and are a pain to clean out of your loop, forcing you to take a toothbrush to your entire loop, but they won't physically abstract the flow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phazer11 View Post

Anyone know if the AP-14's come sleeved normally?

Also I couldn't find any PT Nuke on PPC so I guess one of the only places is on sidewinder (which would be where I'd be getting it since I'd ship it with the fans) and how much should I need for the reservoir I have?
Also how often do you guys have to change your tubing?

Go with PT Nuke PHN, as opposed to PT Nuke standard. The difference is one is CuSO4 which will lower the pH of the loop, the PHN variant is benzyl chloride and wont mess with the pH of your loop, but it will obliterate dyes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post



Get Mayhems X1. It comes in clear, or colored.
It acts as both a biocide and anti-corrosion.
Anti-corrosion is more imoprtant than biocide IMHO.

And if you get Primochil Adcanxed LRT, you likely won't have to change your tubing ever.
Cheaper brands will require as many as 2-3 times a year.

This^
Quote:
Originally Posted by phazer11 View Post

How often do you change your fluid 1-2 times a year or less unless you need to adjust something? Just curious so I can tell whether or not I want to get the Red X1 or the Biocide Extreme

I change mine about every 18 months, so right in that realm of 1-2 years. Without a coolant it's advised to change it every 6 months as the constant adding of more biocides, usually CuSo4, can cause the water to ionize quickly, accelerate corrosion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

Too often, whatever gunk or crap you find in your loop will be died the same color as the coolant die itself.
So than people tend to blame the die when it could be something entirely different.

And apparently, you can't run 40W of fans on a 30W channel
......I'm still trying to figure that one out. rolleyes.gif

You also can't run a pot and a fan off the same 12v+ in parallel without a dist or both will get equal current and the pot will fry.
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post #90 of 437
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

You also can't run a pot and a fan off the same 12v+ in parallel without a dist or both will get equal current and the pot will fry.

Okay.
What's a dist?
And why would anyone run a pot and a fan in parallel anyways?

Btw, I was just kidding about not being able to figure oyt why you can't run 40W of fans on a 30W channel....but you hopefully know I was kidding.
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