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Stress on CPU/MOBO causing frequent crashes

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
I recently decided to do some upgrades custom build. I replaced everything but the GPU since it was only 3 months old, and the optical drive. Whenever I use anything stressful on my computer's CPU(i.e. watching Twitch.tv streams, playing video games like League of Legends) my computer will crash. This can force hard restarts, or it will sometimes reboot on it's own. I've received two kinds of BSOD's, x101 and x124, but they do not occur from most of the crashes. I do not crash on Youtube videos, average day to day websites, or any other basic programs.

I've been searching constantly through forums to find a solution to this problem for two weeks. I've run multiple tests including:

-switching to older GPU drivers
-making sure all chipset and network/audio/connection drivers are up to date
-Prime95(almost immediately crashes)
-Memtest86(did not run for too long, but it went fine. memory does not seem to be the problem)
-re-imaging the HDD 5 different times with full windows updates
-updating the BIOS
-taking the GPU out of the system and letting it run on integrated graphics(still crashed on prime95)
-formatting OS on new HDD(crashes still occurred)
-tried different PSU's
-double,triple,quadruple checking all hardware connections
-CPU temp and GPU temp are at optimal 25-35 degrees Celsius
-machine is free of dust
-underclocking the GPU with MSI afterburner
-changed out thermal paste for a different brand
-booting with only 1 stick of RAM
-Checking BIOS version(1801 for my MOBO, most current version is installed)
-All temperatures also seem to operating optimally as seen from HWmonitor

I'm out of options here. I work in IT and fix computer problems all day, but why it comes to my own setup baffles me. I brought my system into work with me and no one else could figure it out either. I've narrowed it to most likely a MOBO/CPU issue.

Since I bought the parts under a 30-day return policy, I took back the CPU/MOBO/RAM to exchange for the exact same parts. IT STILL EXHIBITS THE SAME SYMPTOMS. Before that I was pretty sure it was just a faulty MOBO. Now I do not know what to think. Here are my specs:

-ASUS M5A78L-M/USB3
-AMD FX6300 Black Edition(6 cores at 3.5Ghz each)
-CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO CPU FAN/Heatsink
-NVIDIA MSI Geforce GTX 650
-Ballistix 2-4GB SPORT DDR3-1600 RAM(8GB)
-Inland ATX ILG-550OE Gold Series PSU (Microcenter Comp/ Electronics Store's house brand)
-Antec 900 tower
-LG DVD optical drive(only piece of hardware that is about 7 years old, tried disconnecting, but crashes still occur)
-Seagate 500GB HDD
-Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium
post #2 of 5
Quote:
Inland ATX ILG-550OE Gold Series PSU

What The ??? I just went to the Micro Center site and they have that psu on sale for $2.24 ????? That cant be right.

Load Range +3.3V@20A; +5V@28A; +12@28A; -12V@0.6A; +5VSB@2A

I think that could be your problem.



Edited by cpmee - 4/11/14 at 12:54am
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-6300 @ 4.9ghz M5A99X EVO R2.0 PNY 2gb NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 PNY DDR3-1600 9-9-9-24 2X4gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel 330 SSD Samsung HD103SI Samsung HD204UI X 2 esata externals  Western Digital WD5000AAKX  
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Optiarc DVD RW AD-7280S Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus Windows 8.1.1 pro with media center Funai 32inch LED HDTV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000 Corsair CX600 Custom twin full tower, 12 - 5 1/4 bays total Logitech M510 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Combo Mouse Pad, Calculator, USB ports USB stereo speakers Custom 5.1 digital sound system 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-6300 @ 4.9ghz M5A99X EVO R2.0 PNY 2gb NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 PNY DDR3-1600 9-9-9-24 2X4gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel 330 SSD Samsung HD103SI Samsung HD204UI X 2 esata externals  Western Digital WD5000AAKX  
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Optiarc DVD RW AD-7280S Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus Windows 8.1.1 pro with media center Funai 32inch LED HDTV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000 Corsair CX600 Custom twin full tower, 12 - 5 1/4 bays total Logitech M510 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Combo Mouse Pad, Calculator, USB ports USB stereo speakers Custom 5.1 digital sound system 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
I thought I double checked the PSU. From what my friend and I could tell, it was the amperage acting too low with that terrible PSU. Could you give me some ideas on how to know in the future what I need to pay attention to when shopping for PSU's? I thought wattage was the only factor, but I must be wrong with the result I have now.


The amperage for the 12v rail was too low. It need to be around 21-25 instead of 18-21. I never thought to think of amperage when considering PSU's. Thanks so much for helping in solving my headache. Cheers.
post #4 of 5
Quote:
I thought wattage was the only factor, but I must be wrong with the result I have now.
Well wattage is a factor, but for modern motherboards its the wattage of the 12 volt rail that is sucking most of the juice. You also want clean (little ripple) and steady rails under a load. The best thing to do is look up in depth online reviews of the psu before purchasing.
Also you would want a single 12v high amperage rail rather than split 12V rails.

12v X 28A = 336 watts claimed on the Inland ATX ILG-550OE Gold Series PSU should have been marginally OK for your system if that spec was true. However, there are NO psu police. Its definitely not a Gold efficiency rated psu, so if they mislead with that statement, they will generally mislead with others too. Plus they were claiming wattage by adding up ALL the rails in total. Most conservative reputable psu vendors now generally rate the psu somewhere close to the 12v wattage.
Edited by cpmee - 4/12/14 at 5:55am
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-6300 @ 4.9ghz M5A99X EVO R2.0 PNY 2gb NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 PNY DDR3-1600 9-9-9-24 2X4gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel 330 SSD Samsung HD103SI Samsung HD204UI X 2 esata externals  Western Digital WD5000AAKX  
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Optiarc DVD RW AD-7280S Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus Windows 8.1.1 pro with media center Funai 32inch LED HDTV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000 Corsair CX600 Custom twin full tower, 12 - 5 1/4 bays total Logitech M510 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Combo Mouse Pad, Calculator, USB ports USB stereo speakers Custom 5.1 digital sound system 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-6300 @ 4.9ghz M5A99X EVO R2.0 PNY 2gb NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 PNY DDR3-1600 9-9-9-24 2X4gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel 330 SSD Samsung HD103SI Samsung HD204UI X 2 esata externals  Western Digital WD5000AAKX  
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Optiarc DVD RW AD-7280S Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus Windows 8.1.1 pro with media center Funai 32inch LED HDTV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000 Corsair CX600 Custom twin full tower, 12 - 5 1/4 bays total Logitech M510 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Combo Mouse Pad, Calculator, USB ports USB stereo speakers Custom 5.1 digital sound system 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5 of 5
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmee View Post

Well wattage is a factor, but for modern motherboards its the wattage of the 12 volt rail that is sucking most of the juice. You also want clean (little ripple) and steady rails under a load. The best thing to do is look up in depth online reviews of the psu before purchasing.
Also you would want a single 12v high amperage rail rather than split 12V rails.

12v X 28A = 336 watts claimed on the Inland ATX ILG-550OE Gold Series PSU should have been marginally OK for your system if that spec was true. However, there are NO psu police. Its definitely not a Gold efficiency rated psu, so if they mislead with that statement, they will generally mislead with others too. Plus they were claiming wattage by adding up ALL the rails in total. Most conservative reputable psu vendors now generally rate the psu somewhere close to the 12v wattage.

Thanks for the insight!
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