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post #31 of 43
Thanx for the clarification Derick.
I do remember reading something to the effect of silver with EK's blocks..
I thought I read it on my block's litterature.
Maybe I just read it on the net here and assumed it was on he litterature fro
EK.

In general, all anti-corrosion stuff is toxic enough to prevent algea as well.
So I say put in some anti-corrosion juice and be done with it. Mayhems X1 comes

And you guys should look into alternatives for the jet plate on the supremacy block.
I am getting ready to make a plexi jet plate to replace the SS one.
Should look awesome.

And plexi, or acetal should be cheaper than stainless anyway?
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post #32 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

He does have a point,posting that up without actual proof one way or the other is pretty poor. Thats what got EK in trouble last time.
Evidence. There is none there Derick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by derickwm View Post

Ahh you guys. 
413.gif

I came in here to simply clear up facts about our warranty policy concerning silver. That's all. We have a huge table of test gear with a multitude of crap running through the loops to test corrosion and algae growth so we can also learn and inform the consumers. We do our best to provide as accurate info as possible, some photos leak through the cracks simply for demonstration purposes. If the brown gunk in said photo is plasticizer or algae, either way we recommend against both things. We offer ekoolant and ek-zmt tubing for a reason. They are the only products I use as well. 

You can nag me for little things all you want, all I came in here was to clear up wrongly stated facts concerning our warranty policy.

As an EK customer, I for one sincerely appreciate your participation here, and the clarification about warranty policy. I posted my criticism under the assumption that EK would want to know that there was misleading, inaccurate information in their knowledge base. It would speak poorly of a company's reputation and credibility to make unsupportable claims based on unscientific data, and if it were my company, I'd want to remove that bad information quickly, and be grateful when someone pointed it out. I don't have any issue with the knowledge base article except the use of that photo, since it is not reliable evidence. If this photo in particular was only intended for demonstration purposes, then the caption should reflect that, although I'm not sure what purpose an inconclusive demonstration photo would have in the context of that knowledge base article.
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post #33 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

Thanx for the clarification Derick.
I do remember reading something to the effect of silver with EK's blocks..
I thought I read it on my block's litterature.
Maybe I just read it on the net here and assumed it was on he litterature fro
EK.

In general, all anti-corrosion stuff is toxic enough to prevent algea as well.
So I say put in some anti-corrosion juice and be done with it. Mayhems X1 comes

And you guys should look into alternatives for the jet plate on the supremacy block.
I am getting ready to make a plexi jet plate to replace the SS one.
Should look awesome.

And plexi, or acetal should be cheaper than stainless anyway?

 

They're a bit fragile is the problem, let me know how yours turns out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post
 
As an EK customer, I for one sincerely appreciate your participation here, and the clarification about warranty policy. I posted my criticism under the assumption that EK would want to know that there was misleading, inaccurate information in their knowledge base. It would speak poorly of a company's reputation and credibility to make unsupportable claims based on unscientific data, and if it were my company, I'd want to remove that bad information quickly, and be grateful when someone pointed it out. I don't have any issue with the knowledge base article except the use of that photo, since it is not reliable evidence. If this photo in particular was only intended for demonstration purposes, then the caption should reflect that, although I'm not sure what purpose an inconclusive demonstration photo would have in the context of that knowledge base article.

 

I'll speak to the guy who created them :thumb: 

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post #34 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

Thanx for the clarification Derick.
I do remember reading something to the effect of silver with EK's blocks..
I thought I read it on my block's litterature.
Maybe I just read it on the net here and assumed it was on he litterature fro
EK.

In general, all anti-corrosion stuff is toxic enough to prevent algea as well.
So I say put in some anti-corrosion juice and be done with it. Mayhems X1 comes

And you guys should look into alternatives for the jet plate on the supremacy block.
I am getting ready to make a plexi jet plate to replace the SS one.
Should look awesome.

And plexi, or acetal should be cheaper than stainless anyway?

OT, but FWIW changing a jet plate thickness significantly effects bow and performance, I doubt you'll be able to make it strong enough with plexi without being significantly thicker and significantly increasing bow. While SS will cause a slight galvanic reaction because it's not plated you won't ever notice an issue - it will erode, but it's only an issue for plating because the copper erodes underneath the nickel giving it no base to attach to. In fact if anything if in contact with nickel plated copper then it will be used as a sacrificial anode instead of the copper. (Based on my limited understanding - please correct me if my science is bad).
Edited by stren - 4/14/14 at 2:22pm
     
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post #35 of 43
Basically nothing works except for EK coolant is what that is saying, on a EK website, from an EK rep.


LOL.
post #36 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by derickwm View Post

tumblr_n0y48ldcc61sfoav0o1_500.gif

Yes, our Ekoolant's can be run by themselves in a loop and they are what we recommend the most when using our products. 

Thanks man, thumb.gif


Picking up the EK clear fluid and the D5 this week, so many small steps to sort out, ugh, at least building and filling, bleeding and testing the entire loop "outside" of the rig will be not as scary when turning on the pump for the very first time.

Considered the XSPC tubing, yet only briefly, hoping the Tygon A-60-G Norprene ages much better.
    
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post #37 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by stren View Post

OT, but FWIW changing a jet plate thickness significantly effects bow and performance, I doubt you'll be able to make it strong enough with plexi without being significantly thicker and significantly increasing bow. While SS will cause a slight galvanic reaction because it's not plated you won't ever notice an issue - it will erode, but it's only an issue for plating because the copper erodes underneath the nickel giving it no base to attach to. In fact if anything if in contact with nickel plated copper then it will be used as a sacrificial anode instead of the copper. (Based on my limited understanding - please correct me if my science is bad).

Yeah I did consider the use of a sacrificial anode.

Anyways, the stuff I am getting is 0.8mm thick clear plexy.
It's the stuff they use for guitar picks.
So I am hoping it's stong enough....we'll see.

The jet plate for the 2011 socket is 0.7mm thick.
I'll just give it a quick sanding to slim it down from 0.8 to 0.7mm.

To be honest, it's also an aesthetic thing for me. To be able see right through the jet plate and onto the fin matrix.
And it makes visual inspection for blockage, bubbles, and corrosion a lot easier.......and it gets rid of the stainless.
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post #38 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by stren View Post

To be honest that looks more like standard tube aging from those XSPC kits. What was the replacement tubing brand OP used? I had used one of those kits once and after six weeks all the tubes were brownish and it wasn't algae. I would inspect your blocks and coolant to see how clean they are inside before saying it's algae for sure.

FWIW I have had algal growth with silver.

FWIW the same effect that makes silver anti-bacterial is supposed to also be the case with copper::

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oligodynamic_effect

Silver is supposed to be stronger in effect, but it does make me wonder we trust silver but not copper.

I agree, I had used the tubing from the XSPC kit originally when I first got in to water cooling. It turned a nasty brown color pretty quick.....

I am only using primo chill stuff LRT for now.

That being said, my tubes didn't look anywhere near as bad as the Op's tubes.
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post #39 of 43
Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanBruce View Post

Thanks man, thumb.gif


Picking up the EK clear fluid and the D5 this week, so many small steps to sort out, ugh, at least building and filling, bleeding and testing the entire loop "outside" of the rig will be not as scary when turning on the pump for the very first time.

Considered the XSPC tubing, yet only briefly, hoping the Tygon A-60-G Norprene ages much better.

Anything ages better than the XSPC tube, even tube from home depot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

Yeah I did consider the use of a sacrificial anode.

Anyways, the stuff I am getting is 0.8mm thick clear plexy.
It's the stuff they use for guitar picks.
So I am hoping it's stong enough....we'll see.

The jet plate for the 2011 socket is 0.7mm thick.
I'll just give it a quick sanding to slim it down from 0.8 to 0.7mm.

To be honest, it's also an aesthetic thing for me. To be able see right through the jet plate and onto the fin matrix.
And it makes visual inspection for blockage, bubbles, and corrosion a lot easier.......and it gets rid of the stainless.

Well that's a good idea, seems like it would be strong enough then, a guitar pick should be robust enough. The DD M6 block had those really thin sheets of plastic you could install for your jetplate/shim and they just seemed too flimsy to me. I have to admit I like being able to see the gunk in there too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HardwareDecoder View Post

I agree, I had used the tubing from the XSPC kit originally when I first got in to water cooling. It turned a nasty brown color pretty quick.....

I am only using primo chill stuff LRT for now.

That being said, my tubes didn't look anywhere near as bad as the Op's tubes.

advanced LRT though not pro LRT. There's a good difference in aging between the two smile.gif
     
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post #40 of 43
Thread Starter 
Wow. So, lots of information there that was a little beyond the scope of my original problem, but all very interesting. I guess now I have to figure out if it's actually algae or if it's my tubing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

If it were algae it would have clogged your waterblock up by now. Have you tried taking it apart to look at the channels?

My cpu temps are all stable under 40° C, so I don't think my block is clogged. . . should I check the channels anyway? (I ask because I really want to put off taking it apart until I know what it is; this is my only computer).
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post

It's not algae, and it never was. It's plasticizer. You did a such a good job nuking anything that could possibly live in your loop that I don't see any other logical explanation.

What kind of tubing are you using?

The tubing I'm using is just straight off the shelf of a hardware store, so I would definitely consider that as a possible cause. It seems like the tubing quality is a bit more important than I thought. If I replace all my tubing, should I replace the fittings as well?

Thanks so much for all the responses everyone; this is actually very helpful!
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