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is arctic silver 5 or artic silver ceramique any better then antec formula 7

post #1 of 4
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i have been trying to get the lowest temperatures possible because i want to overclock my i7 4770k . i tried gelid gc extreme after 3 weeks of using it my idle temps started jumping around from 29c to 42c . so i then tried antec formula 7 my idle temperatures are now stable but my temps under 100% load went up 2c . the only other thermal paste that is available in my area is arctic silver 5 and arctic silver ceramique are any of these two thermal compounds better then antec formula 7 ?
    
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post #2 of 4
Ceramique is better than AS5, but neither is all that amazing. If you are going to use an Arctic Silver paste, use Ceramique 2.

At any rate, most good pastes are within a 3 degree range from each other. Application technique, age, and secondary factors (price, electrical conductivity, viscosity, etc) play a bigger role than the thermal conductivity of the paste itself.
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post #3 of 4
You are going to be limited by the Intel TIM that exists between the die and the IHS, enough that any half decent paste (between block/HS and IHS) will be fine. I would even say, based on experience with a dozen or more IVB chips, that it would be a waste of money to use really good, expensive TIM without delidding.

As for application method, a small amount of paste, the size of an uncooked grain of rice or a .177cal BB, in the center of the IHS, spread out ONLY by the pressure exerted during the course of mounting the heatsink, is the best way to do it. Be careful to SLOWLY and EVENLY turn the HS mounting screws, as the more even the pressure during the mounting, the better the application of the TIM. I use both hands, and switch between having my left hand on the upper-left screw and right on lower-right screw, to LH at bottom left and RH at bottom right. The FIRST full rotation of each screw should be done as one consecutive 360 twist (simultaneously the L+R diagonal), then switch back and forth, and turn the screws 1/2 a twist at a time before switching, and when you start to feel resistance, go 1/4 turn at a time.

The more advanced, but significantly better performing, method is called "tinting". I have been doing this since my AMD Athlon64 FX-51 back in the day, and I have seen anywh ere from as low as 4C to as much as a 24C drop over the years, compared to the aforementioned method. It takes practice, I wouldssay it's more "art" than "science" in getting a good result (consistently) in that regard, but if you take the time to learn, you will be pleased. The goal is to have the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM of TIM, only serving to fill in the tiny voids in the metal, thus allowing the HSF/IHS metals to make direct contact as much as absolutely possible, but without the horrible pockets of air that exist without the use of a "filler" (tim). I do this with lapped and stock chips, and a good lap job CAN help, but if you do anythingl ess than a top class job, it can make it much worse. I have probably killed the thermals of a dozen (older) chips before I got it down pat, and I go all the way up to 8000grit paper, and also contact lap the two surfaces (lapping them concurrently and against one another, so that the metal of each is shaped just like the other).
With a perfect tint job, you should (until you have done it a few times) think that it's crazy, that you don'tssee any paste and it'll kill the chip. It won't.


Another tip, always, always use LESS paste than you think you should, make it small enough that you start to getuuncomfortable.
The reason is, I have seen hundreds upon hundreds of "custom PC" (self built) and I have only ONCE seen the proper amount used, the VAST majority of the time there is anything from 2 to 8 times as much paste oozing around the socket as is needed. This is NOT a "bigger = better" situation, in fact the more you add beyond the "ideal" amount, the worse Temps you'll get.
   
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post #4 of 4
^^^this

Also in order of best results

-delidding
-delid + relid using a Liquid Metal TIM
-lapping both HS & IHS till the CPU "sticks" to the HS by itself
-Liquid Metal TIMs: Indigo Extrem, Coollaboratory,

-brand name TIMs: Gelid, Prolimatech, etc
-OEM TIMS (which com with the HS) : Coolermaster, Zalman, ...
-Stock TIM which comes with the stock CPU intel/amd (+AS5 because of its age has been dethroned a long time ago)
-no name TIMs


note: there is very little difference between these last 4 categories... at best 1-2 °C difference ..... a correct mount/pressure & "flatness" is more important

-mayo, toothpaste, peanutbutter etc also work as tim, but are not advisable smile.gif
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