Congratulations on your new speakers. Andrew Jones is a living legend in speaker design, and the Pioneer line shows just how true that is. I suggest looking up the article where he describes the process from conception through production, it's a great insight into what it is that makes these $70-150 speakers an absolutely amazing unit, and why they are punching many times higher than their weight class.
Of all my speakers (excluding my vintage collection), which consists of names like Sonus Faber (Cremona/Auditors), the Pioneer are the absolute best return for the money for anythingeexcluding my studio work.
I personally prefer Pioneer receivers, the SC-79 and 1222K I have are both a big step up from the equivalent price Denon/Onkyo (in the actual components used, too, as I've stripped them all down to find out whateach iis made of), but the Pioneer Class D3 amp is truly top of the top (1/3rd the voltage ripple of the second best, and as much as 1/25th of others).
I have little experience with new Yamaha, but if their history is anything to go buy, yours should be a very quality unit.
As for cables, I recommend and use exclusively Monoprice, whether for my home theater room-within-a-room overkill system (11.4ch using two dual woofer subs to eliminate bass resonance, McIntosh amps, the SC-79, and two different speaker systems; Sonus Faber premier line towers for FR/FL/C/R/L/SR/SL and wide-angle units for front highs and wides; the second is all Pioneer SP51 towers with the BS41's for FH/FW; also have a pair of Cerwin Vega VE12 Limited Edition for rocking out), to my computer audio, and even my professional audio work equipment... I have ABX'ed cables costing up to $1100/3ft And never has there been a single bit of difference, not one, and they were outputting through a pair of very high end monitors I use for production and fed through a McIntosh 2x500w amp using audio I recorded and mastered (hence am entirely familiar with), playback at the both the original recording "editing bit rate" (48bit @ 384khz) and the masters of the same tracks (24bit/192khz).
I have done the house and systems wiring over time (home theater, living and family rooms, bedroom,and office, I did in-wall cabling using the "wall outlet" plugs, they are single/double width and the standard sizing for lightswitch and power outlet covers, but these have posts for banana clips, as few as 4 and as many as 16, as well as RCA, COAX, HDMI, and more, done when I added dual fiber channel lines to take advantage of the 48port switches + dozens of cables + Intel enterprise hardware NIC's with 2-4x10Gb + 2-4x1Gb and full support for link aggregation and teaming, which is to take advantage of primarily the servers' Areca 1882xi-24 4gig PCIe3.0/SAS3 dual-core hardware RAID controllers, and the numerous arrays which can well exceed 1.7GB/s when the link is also capable).
Still, if I had to guess, I would say there's a minimum of 1500ft of their wire, likely closer to 1.5x that, but I don't have my invoices handy.
All of it is their simple but perfectly constructed 12AWG, and I spent a solid 4 days (and a not insubstantial amount of funds) sleeving every, single, millimeter of wire, using TechFlex super-fine braided metallic EMI/RFI resistant sleeve, and then covered that layer with another made of ultra high density aramid fiber, and then the cables that plug into the speakers/reciever/etc and wall plates are topped with a layer of "traditional" aesthetically focused sleeve using the banana plugs pressure enough to make only a small, and hidden, bit of heatshrink necessary; believe it or not, but after doing so, I measured a fair improvement in noise/SNR, and even better and yet completely unexpected, is that it had an immediate effect on my wireless speeds (although everything important uses the runs on FC and CAT6E), and my new AC-68U (replacing the previous, a/b/g/n top Asus model), and I was even able to completely eliminate a few wireless hubs/repeaters that were previously needed to get complete house (and yard) coverage, as the new AC provides the same or better speeds at those distances without the bandwidth chopping block inherent to repeaters, as well as way better latency.
The main point I'm trying to make is that, with exceptions, it's the proper implementation and willingness to endure many headaches and tedious labor that makes the most difference between setups, but the cables themselves (again, I have been unequivocally Uber happy and impressed with the Monoprice 12AWG O2-free long-strand twisted Cu quad shielded cables at $25-30/100ft or less; oh, and having cut so many, I measured one and found that compared to every other brand cable on hand, the MP has the thickest "shell" and a good 15-20pct or more, larger copper core).
Another "pro tip":
- I can't emphasize this enough, but CLEAN POWER makes a speaker happy. You also need power protection for not only surges, but from the ripple in home lines, sudden blackouts, and the worst, brownouts. Just like a computer, stable voltage and amperage is a powerful (I made a funny) effector on all parts of the system.
Fortunately it doesn't cost, well, a fortune to implement. The Monster line conditioners and similar are overpriced and worthless. I can't recommend strongly enough the Tripp Lite ISOBar Ultra series of surge protection units, which utilize a "tiered" protection consisting of MOV's in a sacrificial setup as well as capacitor and other, much better means of protection that don't lose their ability to protect at a constant rate once plugged in.
Furthermore, the units have isolated outlet banks, in powers of 2 (2/4/6/8/etc), which addresses the typically ignored fact that power needn't come from the wall for it to be damaging. Even better still, the units provide a fair degree of voltage regulation or "smoothing", reducing the degree of droop/spikes to inconsequential levels. The amount of noise removed goes from 50dBa to upwards of 125dBa.
Oh,and they're $40-100 depending on the unit size.
As for the center, it's a very rare exception when you are able to use a different brand than the main L/R, but most of the time it is a very poor result. Thus, stick to Pioneer.
I also recommend that you skip the center until you have a sub, which will be many times more important especially since you are not using the 51's (towers) but rather the bookshelf speakers. I personally would not be using a center until you have speakers for at least 5.1, as 3.0/.1 is a very unusual setup and the results are not typically impressive.
Again regarding center channelspeakers, I ac tually recommend avoiding the models labeled as such. Turning a speaker on its side does funny things to the acoustics, and also creates a much more narrow sweetspot.
Instead, buy a third of the speakers used for the L/R, vertically set. The whole issue of voice matching becomes nonexistent, and balance between the three is almost always perfect without anything more than plug and play. It is something you can't "undo", once you use the setup, you will be hooked.
Anyway, best of luck, and enjoy in good health.