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My 1st loop : putting everything together

post #1 of 2
Thread Starter 
Hi guys, me again
It's been some months now that I come on OCN asking you several questions hardware-related and wc-related, and once again big thanks to all of you, really.

Now is the time for this watercooling thread to sum all up, gather the answers and help me plan things right altogether. I'd like this thread to first help me figure out the remaining parts to collect, and only then to help me with the building processes. I'm focused on performance and balance.
I say it again, I'm a first-time pc-builder and same goes for watercooling of course smile.gif So here we go..

My future rig : oc'ed 4670k - M6Gene - 2x8GB RipJawsX 2400 CL11 oc'ed - oc'ed Gtx 770 ( and later 2x oc'ed 880's ) - Super Flower Leadex Gold 1300W - NZXT Phantom 410 - Win8.1 Pro 64

Usage : primarily for hardcore gaming, running VM's, and a bit of video editing and of benchmarking. I'll be overclocking ( the most I can but without getting things too risky ) and watercooling the 4670k and the SLI of 880's, with a big external radiator.
I plan to watercool the cpu directly on its die, with thermal paste ( non-metal ) between the block and the die.


Here are the selected parts so far :

- CPU block : EK Supremacy copper/acetal + Naked-Ivy Precise Mount ( for direct-to-die cooling.. it fits Haswell too )

- Radiator : Phobya Xtreme Supernova 1260
Copper fins and pipes, brass chambers, good flow, 460x420x46mm. With that much radspace I can aim for low rpm and have low-rpm fans, and the 1260 is more suited for low rpm than the Mo-Ra3, and doesn't need lots of static pressure.
I've also bought that stand/cage for it

- Rad fans : The 1260 can be mounted with either 9x 140mm-fans or 4x 200/220mm-fans. Firstly I'll go with the Yate Loon D22BL-12H 220mm ( as I've seen them do well on the 1260, at low rpm ) so 8 of them in a push/pull config... and then when I can I will see how 9 good, more recent 140mm-fans compare to them on that rad.
9x 140 and 8x 220 of fans cost about the same price here, and I really want to know what will perform best between those two configurations... will test that but that's for later.

- Fans control : Those YL aren't PWM fans but I've read and been told that they could be somewhat software-controlled. I will use this splitter with 4pin->2x4pin splitters plugged into its 4pin female connectors, so all 8/9 fans could fit, be connected to a fan header on the board and be software-controlled ( not separatedly, is not a problem ) without even risking to burn the fan header since the power would be drawn directly from my psu through the molex wire.
Not sure if that's feasible but I want to try and see what happens. If it fails I can still get a controller, will see.


Now the rest..

- Thermal paste : still have to dig around the web to see which thermal paste would be the best for naked-die cooling. I'm not going liquid metal as it won't improve temps by much when used between the die and the block and can cause hassle. Also there is some Gelid Extreme included with the EK block.. but well, will see.

- Pumps : I will be using two ( more reliable, a bit more performant, and it's possible that I'll go parallel with the gpu blocks ). They'll be PWM, low wattage ( 10-22W ) pumps. Of course I want good "performers" and quiet, as most as possible. I'd like them to be placed inside my case since it will be dampened.. will see later how I will place them inside the Phantom 410 ( there should be enough room for them ) and how to proceed with decoupling.

I've been advised to use D5 pumps, but actually the only thing I know about pumps is that D5 have higher flow rates and less head pressure than DDC.. my cpu block and the Phobya rad will allow for good flow ( don't know yet about gpu blocks, nor if they'll be in series or parallel ) ..well all in all I don't know what would be better for my config between two D5 and two DDC.
And a pump top ? I don't even know what's that used for.

- Reservoir : So no res/pump combos. Still don't know if I will mount the res internally, on the pump(s), or externally, on the rad stand. I don't know if there are pros and cons to both.. and if internal : bay-res? dual-bay res?
And what capacity ?

- Tubing : The connection threads on the rad and on the block being G1/4" I thought maybe that going for that tube size would be better ? I know that the pros and cons of each size are related to pressure and flow, and looks, but I can't tell much more than that. The good choice here would be the one that would fit the more with the rest of the config, performance-wise.
Polyurethan ? Polyethylen ? Silicon ?.. I've heard vinyl is bad. Maybe a material that is a good heat conductor ?
And I'd like them to be translucid and red, and maybe flexible too if that can help the flow.

- The liquid : So what I hope here is that the blocks/rad/pumps/res/tubing won't get corroded by the liquid or react with it, and that "dirt" won't appear in the loop. I guess the liquid should be a very good heat conductor.. but better make it myself ? buy it ? What quantity ?
I've heard of pure water/ osmosed water/ distilled water/ demineralised water/ ionized water/ cooling liquid for cars + algicide/anti-moisture and anti-corrosive.. but here I have no clue what I should go for. And I won't add any colorant.

- The rest : compression fittings or clamps ?
Draining port / T-fitting / Silver coil...
any brand would do ?


Whew... that's a lot, I know x) but your help would be greatly appreciated on that one. When it is about balancing things altogether, there's actually too much to consider for the noob that I am.
If you have advices, pointers, recommendations on brands/models, or just thoughts, they're very welcome.

Thanks for your attention !
post #2 of 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by White Wind View Post

Hi guys, me again
It's been some months now that I come on OCN asking you several questions hardware-related and wc-related, and once again big thanks to all of you, really.

Now is the time for this watercooling thread to sum all up, gather the answers and help me plan things right altogether. I'd like this thread to first help me figure out the remaining parts to collect, and only then to help me with the building processes. I'm focused on performance and balance.
I say it again, I'm a first-time pc-builder and same goes for watercooling of course smile.gif So here we go..

My future rig : oc'ed 4670k - M6Gene - 2x8GB RipJawsX 2400 CL11 oc'ed - oc'ed Gtx 770 ( and later 2x oc'ed 880's ) - Super Flower Leadex Gold 1300W - NZXT Phantom 410 - Win8.1 Pro 64

Usage : primarily for hardcore gaming, running VM's, and a bit of video editing and of benchmarking. I'll be overclocking ( the most I can but without getting things too risky ) and watercooling the 4670k and the SLI of 880's, with a big external radiator.
I plan to watercool the cpu directly on its die, with thermal paste ( non-metal ) between the block and the die.


Here are the selected parts so far :

- CPU block : EK Supremacy copper/acetal + Naked-Ivy Precise Mount ( for direct-to-die cooling.. it fits Haswell too )

- Radiator : Phobya Xtreme Supernova 1260
Copper fins and pipes, brass chambers, good flow, 460x420x46mm. With that much radspace I can aim for low rpm and have low-rpm fans, and the 1260 is more suited for low rpm than the Mo-Ra3, and doesn't need lots of static pressure.
I've also bought that stand/cage for it

- Rad fans : The 1260 can be mounted with either 9x 140mm-fans or 4x 200/220mm-fans. Firstly I'll go with the Yate Loon D22BL-12H 220mm ( as I've seen them do well on the 1260, at low rpm ) so 8 of them in a push/pull config... and then when I can I will see how 9 good, more recent 140mm-fans compare to them on that rad.
9x 140 and 8x 220 of fans cost about the same price here, and I really want to know what will perform best between those two configurations... will test that but that's for later.

- Fans control : Those YL aren't PWM fans but I've read and been told that they could be somewhat software-controlled. I will use this splitter with 4pin->2x4pin splitters plugged into its 4pin female connectors, so all 8/9 fans could fit, be connected to a fan header on the board and be software-controlled ( not separatedly, is not a problem ) without even risking to burn the fan header since the power would be drawn directly from my psu through the molex wire.
Not sure if that's feasible but I want to try and see what happens. If it fails I can still get a controller, will see.


Now the rest..

- Thermal paste : still have to dig around the web to see which thermal paste would be the best for naked-die cooling. I'm not going liquid metal as it won't improve temps by much when used between the die and the block and can cause hassle. Also there is some Gelid Extreme included with the EK block.. but well, will see.

- Pumps : I will be using two ( more reliable, a bit more performant, and it's possible that I'll go parallel with the gpu blocks ). They'll be PWM, low wattage ( 10-22W ) pumps. Of course I want good "performers" and quiet, as most as possible. I'd like them to be placed inside my case since it will be dampened.. will see later how I will place them inside the Phantom 410 ( there should be enough room for them ) and how to proceed with decoupling.

I've been advised to use D5 pumps, but actually the only thing I know about pumps is that D5 have higher flow rates and less head pressure than DDC.. my cpu block and the Phobya rad will allow for good flow ( don't know yet about gpu blocks, nor if they'll be in series or parallel ) ..well all in all I don't know what would be better for my config between two D5 and two DDC.
And a pump top ? I don't even know what's that used for.

- Reservoir : So no res/pump combos. Still don't know if I will mount the res internally, on the pump(s), or externally, on the rad stand. I don't know if there are pros and cons to both.. and if internal : bay-res? dual-bay res?
And what capacity ?

- Tubing : The connection threads on the rad and on the block being G1/4" I thought maybe that going for that tube size would be better ? I know that the pros and cons of each size are related to pressure and flow, and looks, but I can't tell much more than that. The good choice here would be the one that would fit the more with the rest of the config, performance-wise.
Polyurethan ? Polyethylen ? Silicon ?.. I've heard vinyl is bad. Maybe a material that is a good heat conductor ?
And I'd like them to be translucid and red, and maybe flexible too if that can help the flow.

- The liquid : So what I hope here is that the blocks/rad/pumps/res/tubing won't get corroded by the liquid or react with it, and that "dirt" won't appear in the loop. I guess the liquid should be a very good heat conductor.. but better make it myself ? buy it ? What quantity ?
I've heard of pure water/ osmosed water/ distilled water/ demineralised water/ ionized water/ cooling liquid for cars + algicide/anti-moisture and anti-corrosive.. but here I have no clue what I should go for. And I won't add any colorant.

- The rest : compression fittings or clamps ?
Draining port / T-fitting / Silver coil...
any brand would do ?


Whew... that's a lot, I know x) but your help would be greatly appreciated on that one. When it is about balancing things altogether, there's actually too much to consider for the noob that I am.
If you have advices, pointers, recommendations on brands/models, or just thoughts, they're very welcome.

Thanks for your attention !

Thermal paste-The Gelid Extreme is a good non-conductive TIM, Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra is great conductive TIM.

Pumps-I run dual AQ D5's, these have a custom board and are more versatile than normal D5's. The D5 at full power can have some vibration but most can have adequate flow at much lower power settings. I have the 2 D5's on a xspc dual bay res, this is the least desirable mounting as it transfers pump vibration to the case. It's only a issue at 70% or above power settings. D5's mounted in the case and decoupled should be completely noise free.

The liquid-I prefer distilled h20 and a biocide additive like PT Nuke. I drain and refill at six month intervals. All EK blocks, nickle and copper, no signs of corrosion... yet, time well tell.

The rest-Compression fittings are my choice although I do have a few clamps. I have a T fitting in the lowest line to aid draining.
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