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post #21 of 33
Pure alcohol, not rubbing alcohol. wink.gif
post #22 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by cutty1998 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldozer72 View Post



That stuff works but is very over priced. A FYI for in the future. I dampen section of an old t-shirt and scrub the HS base. I have never taken more than two minutes cleaning a HS base with either of these two.

98% Isopropyl alcohol. Much better than the arctic clean system and costs iess than four dollars for a 12oz. bottle at Walgreens/Riteaid type drug stores.

Acetone. I use this to clean 10+ year old grunge off of Harley parts and I guarantee you it will get your HS base pristine. Use it only in a very well ventilated area and avoid prolonged exposure to your skin (wear some gloves if you really have to scrub the base). If not available at the local Napa, Pep Boys, Autozone type store, they should now where to get it. I just bought a quart at my local Napa store for $14.

Doyll is spot on with the high pressure shower head cleaning method. I have been using it for about twelve years now. My computer room does not have AC and I rarely have temp probs on my OC's, even in the middle of August. Cleaner runs cooler.
You're so right! I bought that cleaning kit like 6 years ago ,for $25 !! I always like to get the stronger rubbing alcohol also ,as I knew it left like zero residue and is nice and flammable ,and has many more uses than the 70% crap ! Acetone is nail polish remover I'm pretty sure ?,or can get at the paint store much cheaper!
Quote:
Originally Posted by cutty1998 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldozer72 View Post



That stuff works but is very over priced. A FYI for in the future. I dampen section of an old t-shirt and scrub the HS base. I have never taken more than two minutes cleaning a HS base with either of these two.

98% Isopropyl alcohol. Much better than the arctic clean system and costs iess than four dollars for a 12oz. bottle at Walgreens/Riteaid type drug stores.

Acetone. I use this to clean 10+ year old grunge off of Harley parts and I guarantee you it will get your HS base pristine. Use it only in a very well ventilated area and avoid prolonged exposure to your skin (wear some gloves if you really have to scrub the base). If not available at the local Napa, Pep Boys, Autozone type store, they should now where to get it. I just bought a quart at my local Napa store for $14.

Doyll is spot on with the high pressure shower head cleaning method. I have been using it for about twelve years now. My computer room does not have AC and I rarely have temp probs on my OC's, even in the middle of August. Cleaner runs cooler.
You're so right! I bought that cleaning kit like 6 years ago ,for $25 !! I always like to get the stronger rubbing alcohol also ,as I knew it left like zero residue and is nice and flammable ,and has many more uses than the 70% crap ! Acetone is nail polish remover I'm pretty sure ?,or can get at the paint store much cheaper!

Nail polish remover is really watered down acetone. And it probably is cheaper at a paint store. I do not get out much. I run a Harley repair and custon shop for the last 20 years and I have pretty much all my shop supplies delivered. I use quite a few of my shop supplies cleaning my rigs. I am currently putting together a build for my son (his PC got stolen) and I spent about three hours of my time and 2-3 oz. of Mother's polishing compound to get the Venomous X HS exceptionally shiney. It is shinier than any chrome part I have ever seen.
Edited by Bulldozer72 - 4/19/14 at 5:18pm
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post #23 of 33
Acetone is a better solvent than alcohol, but it reacts with certain plastics (will "chew" them right up).
If you're careful and/or aren't near things it could react with, no big deal...but if you're doing this around other components / peripherals, it's something to think about.

Isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters are all I've ever needed to clean chips / blocks/ bases off well enough.
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post #24 of 33
isopryl/rubbing alcohol 91% is best.. 98% leaves residue

acetone would probably eat PCB
post #25 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by candy_van View Post

Acetone is a better solvent than alcohol, but it reacts with certain plastics (will "chew" them right up).
If you're careful and/or aren't near things it could react with, no big deal...but if you're doing this around other components / peripherals, it's something to think about.

Isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters are all I've ever needed to clean chips / blocks/ bases off well enough.

I should have elaborated more in my post. I take my HS's outside when cleaning with acetone. I only clean the base with acetone to remoce goo'ed TIM. I then squitt a coffee filter with some Simple Green (?) and wipe the base thoroughly. Next I take another dry coffee filter and wipe it down again. I then hang it somewhere (often my paint drying room) for a bit before reinstalling the HS. The HS is the only PC part that gets within about 100 feet and two walls of the acetone. It will eat just about anything that is not metal. Thank you for brining that up. I will go and edit the post.
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post #26 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldozer72 View Post

The HS is the only PC part that gets within about 100 feet and two walls of the acetone. It will eat just about anything that is not metal.
As a chemist I cannot let this statement go past.biggrin.gif Acetone dissolves it doesn't eat. There are some engineered plastics that are not soluble in acetone one does not want to take any chances with a motherboard. To get the CPU clean it's best to use isopropyl alcohol. 70 & 90% isopropyl alchols are commonly sold in drug stores and pharmacies. Get the 90% as there is less water and it works just fine on the TIM that comes with the stock Intel cooler, Arctic Silver and a couple of other brands that I've used in the past. It takes no more than 5 minutes (if that) to full clean a heat sink and CPU.
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post #27 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan G View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldozer72 View Post

The HS is the only PC part that gets within about 100 feet and two walls of the acetone. It will eat just about anything that is not metal.
As a chemist I cannot let this statement go past.biggrin.gif Acetone dissolves it doesn't eat. There are some engineered plastics that are not soluble in acetone one does not want to take any chances with a motherboard. To get the CPU clean it's best to use isopropyl alcohol. 70 & 90% isopropyl alchols are commonly sold in drug stores and pharmacies. Get the 90% as there is less water and it works just fine on the TIM that comes with the stock Intel cooler, Arctic Silver and a couple of other brands that I've used in the past. It takes no more than 5 minutes (if that) to full clean a heat sink and CPU.

You are correct. "Dissolves" would be the proper terminology as opposed to "eats". + Rep. I usually use the 91%(just checked the bottle to be sure) iso alcohol just about all the time. I have not used acetone in a couple of years to be honest. It was a procedure that worked for me back in the day when one certain brand of TIM would completely goo and then harden on HS's and CPU's. I was just posting it as a last resort if the alcohol did not work.
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post #28 of 33
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Whoa! Is that you ,WW ? My Star. My perfect silence......................... Sorry ,I am on an extended BB binge. In any event, I am going to break down this rig on Monday,after this holiday . I am hesitant ,as it is my main all-around ,do everything system. Really my primary home cinema,as I do not game much anymore & have about 2 Tb of movies on an external HDD sitting on top! When I do game,it is on another rig that my Son mostly controls. I'll probably use one of the many laptops lying around while this rig is being spring -cleaned ! images21.jpg
post #29 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by tatmMRKIV View Post

isopryl/rubbing alcohol 91% is best.. 98% leaves residue

acetone would probably eat PCB
Alcohol leaves no reside. The purer it is the less the chance of residue.
post #30 of 33
Quote:
Acetone is a better solvent than alcohol, but it reacts with certain plastics
Acetone wont dissolve the fiberglass pcb, but it may the plastic socket, IDK I havent tested yet. Ive used acetone to get some stubborn TIM off the cpu (out of the socket of course) and the heatsink base. Then I clean it with alcohol before applying the new TIM.
    
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