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[User Review] Mayhems Blitz Pro Cleaning System. - Page 8

post #71 of 78
Have you read the directions included with the Pro kit &/or watched the Blitz tutorial vids by Mayhems? He explains how and why the products should be used, and that includes Part 2 to be used in a full loop.

First you said you wouldn't trust Part 2 did more than neutralize Part 1 unless you heard it from Mick (Mayhems) himself. Then once pointed out what Mick has written, saying just that, it sounds like you won't trust anything but your own intuition. headscratch.gif
post #72 of 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Have you read the directions included with the Pro kit &/or watched the Blitz tutorial vids by Mayhems? He explains how and why the products should be used, and that includes Part 2 to be used in a full loop.

First you said you wouldn't trust Part 2 did more than neutralize Part 1 unless you heard it from Mick (Mayhems) himself. Then once pointed out what Mick has written, saying just that, it sounds like you won't trust anything but your own intuition. headscratch.gif

Yes, I have used the product myself as directed... And didn't I say that I could understand what Mick said regarding the foaming? I also agreed that its function would be to remove residue, but the other poster said "a lot more than just that" and based on what you quoted Mick as saying, I'm not sure I believe it. And sorry, its not just intuition, but several years of formulating commercial cleaning products in a professional setting.
post #73 of 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by OwaN View Post


Aside from the foaming action, I haven't known most nonionics to be "potent biocides", and Blitz only seems to contain enough quat in part 2 to be biostatic rather than anti-bacterial, and even if it was, it wouldn't be enough to leave residual biostitatic activity after being drained and replaced by fresh DI water. I can accept that the foam would help remove debris, but how does that explain why you'd want to run it through the whole loop? Wouldn't shaking the rad with some part 2 be preferred so you aren't depositing junk in other parts of the loop? I'm not trying to be negative toward the product, because lots of people have had good experiences with it, but when I see statements like "it does so much more than just foam" it sets my chemist alarm bells off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OwaN View Post


Yes, I have used the product myself as directed... And didn't I say that I could understand what Mick said regarding the foaming? I also agreed that its function would be to remove residue, but the other poster said "a lot more than just that" and based on what you quoted Mick as saying, I'm not sure I believe it. And sorry, its not just intuition, but several years of formulating commercial cleaning products in a professional setting.

Thirty minutes of thread shuffling later:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

Yes it is possible you would only need part two.

Mayhems Blitz Part two not only is it PH Neutral its also a combined Disinfectant and Detergent and is based on a QAC Biocide. Just never leave in longer than 24 hours.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

*snip*
Part 2 of Mayhems Blitz Is more viscous than Pastel, Blitz part 2 can remove stuff that has blocked a hole but it also helps fluids you put in afterwards flow better because of a micro layer it leaves behind to make fluids flow better. There is a lot of extras in Part two that we do not let on about because we do not wish for others to copy our fluids.thumb.gif

-Z
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post #74 of 78
Ok.
I've read through this thread and I'm still searching about online...
I do want to use Part 1 to scrub out some used Rads, and I'll prefer to neutralize the acid in them after wash out.
However, must I use Blitz part 2 to do this? Would a PH neutralizing agent not also work?
(I'm not that keen on the "micro layer it leaves behind to make fluids flow better" part of Part 2. I won't be using colored coolant, and am suspicious of "micro layers" - this just sounds like contamination to me.
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post #75 of 78
Noo...
I couldn't resist.

Did buy some Mayhems Deep Red dye.
Just had to try it sometime... only used distilled with corrosion blocker and dead water.

Good to hear/read that people have good experience with the cleaner. Gives me some peace of mind in case things go south and the dye does mess up my stuff.
    
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post #76 of 78
Hi!

1. In Mayhems Blitz Part One contains a concentrated solution of phosphoric acid? Or are there any other supplements? Phosphorous acid does not react with copper at a temperature offrom 20 to 95 °C, but how it will react with the coating of the stator of the pump? Or nickel-plated water blocks?
2. My pastel Blue Berry due to lower acidity levels change color? If so, what level of acidity is needed to preserve the original color? How to raise the level of acidity (pH)?
post #77 of 78
I just want to double check that the PH strips are for testing the water for a return to a neutral PH,after running part 2 through the loop. There's no need to test the mixture of distilled water and part 2 for an ideal PH?
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post #78 of 78
does anyone know whats the percentage of Phosphoric acid in part 1? I was looking to get just the phospheric acid cheaper to buy it and then add the water. I was looking at this for 32 oz. I have 4 monsta quads 240mm that will need some major cleaning in 3 months so looking to use phospheric acid i thought this would be cheaper since i have to cut it down with water.
https://www.amazon.com/Phosphoric-Acid-High-Purity-1000ml/dp/B009S05Z2Q

any ideas
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