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post #41 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrockinWV View Post

That "wind tunnel" effect is exactly what I am trying to avoid, want to make sure I am getting good flow across all of the components
I think case cooling is the most important part of a build and sadly is usually the most neglected. Most don't know how to do it properly and even those who do spend many hours setting up different combinations and testing / monitoring cooler intake and other air temps inside of case. What works at idle may not work at full load, or visa-versa. Changing component locations, case and/or cooler fan speed/s, kind of fans used, vent grills, filters, case design, case placement, etc all effect how the air flows. Changing CPU cooler or GPU often cause major changes in airflow and cooling. Even cable management can have a huge effect on airflow. Or how much dust is in filters.

I've done setups where everything was perfect when system was in use but motherboard components ran hot at idle.. Had to increase idle speed 50rpm and problem was solved.

It's not uncommon for CPU cooler exhausting back toward rear vent to to cycle their own heated air toward the front and heat up their intake air.. especially when CPU is working hard / fans moving more air than rear exhaust fan can exhaust. I usually duct from back of cooler to exhaust vent and/or use a fan for case exhaust that moves at least as much, preferably more air as cooler fan/s do.
post #42 of 67
That's why us smart folks go to water tongue.gif
   
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post #43 of 67
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

I think case cooling is the most important part of a build and sadly is usually the most neglected. Most don't know how to do it properly and even those who do spend many hours setting up different combinations and testing / monitoring cooler intake and other air temps inside of case. What works at idle may not work at full load, or visa-versa. Changing component locations, case and/or cooler fan speed/s, kind of fans used, vent grills, filters, case design, case placement, etc all effect how the air flows. Changing CPU cooler or GPU often cause major changes in airflow and cooling. Even cable management can have a huge effect on airflow. Or how much dust is in filters.

I've done setups where everything was perfect when system was in use but motherboard components ran hot at idle.. Had to increase idle speed 50rpm and problem was solved.

It's not uncommon for CPU cooler exhausting back toward rear vent to to cycle their own heated air toward the front and heat up their intake air.. especially when CPU is working hard / fans moving more air than rear exhaust fan can exhaust. I usually duct from back of cooler to exhaust vent and/or use a fan for case exhaust that moves at least as much, preferably more air as cooler fan/s do.

There is definitely a lot invloved and a lot of trial error with getting the proper set up, but im also trying to avoid buying parts that i wont be needing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

That's why us smart folks go to water tongue.gif

I would have liked to have done a custom loop, but with being so early in my computer building career i didnt want to take on so much already, or spend that kind of money at the moment. Maybe a possibility during my next build a few years down the road!
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post #44 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

That's why us smart folks go to water tongue.gif
Need very deep pockets for real water.. and lots of studying to learn what components are needed and which are best for each given application too. tongue.gif
But once case airflow is setup properly it's almost maintenance free.. just keep filters clean.. and a faction of what you had to spend. biggrin.gif
I would like a really nice H2O setup. After all I have the perfect case.. Enthoo Primo. But there is no way I can afford it.thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrockinWV View Post

There is definitely a lot invloved and a lot of trial error with getting the proper set up, but im also trying to avoid buying parts that i wont be needing.
It's not that hard to pick components
  • A good cooler for CpU
  • A GPU with a good quiet cooler or a quiet aftermarket cooler
  • PWM hub and splitter for CP:U and GpU
  • Good fans

Here is the front of my R2
I use modified TY-147 fans. Here I can get them for £5.17. If I want even more powerful fans with same noise level at same speeds as TY-147 the TY-143 is very good. and only £6.99. But to fit them into the R4 front they need to be cut square.


Here are standard TY-147 & TY-140 1300rpm fans. TY-143 is same in red frame and orange with same performance up to 1300rpm/74cfm, but goes on up to 2500rpom/130cfm


Here is squared TY-140 with black frame.


Here is my case R2 interior (now has different GPU), grill removed from back (bottom grills removed too) and castor base.



Maybe tomorrow I'll put TRUE Spirit 140 Power in. biggrin.gif
post #45 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slink3Slyde View Post

I respectfully disagree, I just dont think the air will be pushed forwards quickly enough with the acx cooler mixing it up in there with the heated air from the h100. Im not saying it wont work i just think you can get it cooler around the Gpu better with another method in this situation. Of course I cant prove it thats why i suggested OP experiment and see what works best.

I think the intent is to generate enough air pressure from intakes to constantly be pushing that air out and replacing it with fresh air. The way non-reference GPU fans work does make it more difficult, but as long as the intakes are forcing enough air in the right direction it'll keep cycling new air in.

What'd you use to build the shroud on the back of your cooler, doyll? That thing is awesome.
Edited by Nisrock7863 - 4/22/14 at 12:33pm
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post #46 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nisrock7863 View Post

I think the intent is to generate enough air pressure from intakes to constantly be pushing that air out and replacing it with fresh air. The way non-reference GPU fans work does make it more difficult, but as long as the intakes are forcing enough air in the right direction it'll keep cycling new air in.

What'd you use to build the shroud on the back of your cooler, doyll? That thing is awesome.
That is a big part of it. But also it's about getting the cool intake air to the GPU and CPU cooler intakes and removing their heated exhaust out of the case without any of it mixing with the cool intake air.
Edited by doyll - 4/25/14 at 1:23am
post #47 of 67
Thread Starter 
Alright, well I just now ordered 2 Noctua 140mm NH-A14 PWMs, 2 Noctua 120mm NF-F12 PWMs (radiator replacement fans), and a XSPC LCD Temperature Sensor V2. For now I plan to use the 2 140mm fans for intake, and in another week or so I will be ordering 2 more (1 for bottom intake, 1 for exhaust), and also a Swiftech 8 way splitter.
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post #48 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

That is a big part of it. But also it's about getting the cool intake air to the GPU and CPU cooler intakes and remove their heated exhaust out of the case without any of it mixing with the cool intake air.

What material did you use to build the shroud on the back of your CPU cooler, and how did you attach it to your case? That thing is awesome. I've toyed with the idea of doing something similar, just wasn't sure what to use.
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post #49 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nisrock7863 View Post

What material did you use to build the shroud on the back of your CPU cooler, and how did you attach it to your case? That thing is awesome. I've toyed with the idea of doing something similar, just wasn't sure what to use.
File folders, glue stick and black spray paint. biggrin.gif
I sometime make a 'prototype' that has cuts and splices in it to get the fit right, than use that for a pattern for a nicer one. Paint softens the material but when it dries it is stiffer and harder than before.

There is no duct on the motherboard side of duct and the I/O panel is removed. This resulted in lowered motherboard component temps.

I also built ducting around bottom of cooler so airflow is force airflow through motherboard heatsinks. This lowered motherboard component around CPU by 5c.

It fits over cooler and tight against back of case.
post #50 of 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrockinWV View Post

Alright, well I just now ordered 2 Noctua 140mm NH-A14 PWMs, 2 Noctua 120mm NF-F12 PWMs (radiator replacement fans), and a XSPC LCD Temperature Sensor V2. For now I plan to use the 2 140mm fans for intake, and in another week or so I will be ordering 2 more (1 for bottom intake, 1 for exhaust), and also a Swiftech 8 way splitter.
Why not just use a cheapo digital indoor/outdoor thermometer like I show in link below. Once system is setup there is no need for it.
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