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[Official] NZXT Kraken G10 Owner's Club - Page 302

post #3011 of 5901
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoom View Post

I had to put a few VRM heatsinks on the underside of my 970. The card already has a few heatsinks directly on top of the VRMs on the front. Even then the VRM temperature hits a max of 92c in Dying Light. I have a NZXT Sentry 3 so I hooked up the temperature probe to directly under VRM heatsinks and I'd say its pretty accurate to a degree of 1-2C. For now I don't have many issues except with the same memory OC I get artifacts so I had to tone down the OC. The 90mm fan helps quite a bit, I'm sure I'd be easily hitting over 100c without it.

Since you have the 7 series cards I'd imagine they will run even hotter and it's going to be much easier to fry those VRMs.

I also had a MSI 760 Hawk (stock cooler) which I had to RMA thrice just for running Furmark and Valley.

Whoa whoa whoa, you fried your GTX 760 Hawk for runninf Furmark? I thought the card had like friggin' overbuilt VRM systems? How much TDP % did you hit in Furmark? Since I'm hitting 80% on the LN2 BIOS with a 1.3V overvolt and a 1345MHz core OC with the 100% being 275W so I really don't wanna fry my card too. Also I've been running Valley all the time for the stability tests I do and it doesn't seem to hurt my card at all so I think it's just Furmark that fried yours.
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post #3012 of 5901
Sorry if this is aside from the current topic at hand, but I do need help with possibly a new AIO pump for the NZXT Kraken G10 bracket?

I'll keep it short. I have a Diamond Radeon R9 280X. I am using the G10 combined with a refurbished Antec Kuhler H20 620.
I used Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0 to stress the gpu, and temperatures are still very high (87 celcius with just 1 4:30min benchmark)

I reseated and re-applied thermal paste (Arctic Silver 5) as well as double checked cable wirings. Pump is connected directly to the PSU, Fan is connected on the CPU_FAN Mobo header.

I am certain that the pump is simply a bad one (it is refurbished). It is also a common problem from Antec Kuhler 620 owners that they have a lot of trouble with it.

Any suggestions on some solutions? Any good AIO liquid cooling pumps that work well for anyone else with the G10 bracket?

post #3013 of 5901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Awesomeguy10578 View Post

Whoa whoa whoa, you fried your GTX 760 Hawk for runninf Furmark? I thought the card had like friggin' overbuilt VRM systems? How much TDP % did you hit in Furmark? Since I'm hitting 80% on the LN2 BIOS with a 1.3V overvolt and a 1345MHz core OC with the 100% being 275W so I really don't wanna fry my card too. Also I've been running Valley all the time for the stability tests I do and it doesn't seem to hurt my card at all so I think it's just Furmark that fried yours.

Furmark also bricked my stock MSI 770 Lightning. Its a dangerous program that should never be used.
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post #3014 of 5901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoly View Post

Why would you choose thermal pads over thermal tape? Could you recommend some? I actually didn't know that you could "mount" something to thermal pads. I just know them from the stock coolers and they just fly arround by demounting the cooler biggrin.gif.

For your card, I chose pads over tape because you have a naked card, and will be mounting directly onto the circuitry instead of on a midplate. I have also heard of one instance of someone using tape which melted and broke the card. It could be because he used a bad tape, I dunno, I would avoid it and use pads. Im not sure what brand is available in your region if you could link some and i'll give my input. It needs to be double sided adhesive thermal pads.
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post #3015 of 5901
@snakcaz

Refurbished AIOs are always risky, especially one with a propensity for pump failures. One commonissue that people have when temps are too high when everything is plugged in correctly is that sometimes there isn't enough pressure. Before investing in a new AIO, make sure that you have it screwed down tight enough. Not so much that it is causing flexion or bending of the PCB, but enough pressure just before that bend/flex occurs.

If that still doesn't work, try to return the AIO if its within the return period. If not, the H55 is generally the lowest cost option that provides the best performance.
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post #3016 of 5901
Since I order my heatsinks and some cables (Audio Y splitter, sleeved USB to USB, black fan screws) here, I could add some of these pads: http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Thermal-Paste-%26-Pads/

Otherwise I could also use arctic ones. They ship 30 of them with there Accelero S3. I just don't know if they are double sided or if I have to use them for the backside of the card to space the backplate from the components. I didn't read there manual 100% now since I'm actually playing with some numbers in terms of cash. But if you are curios:

http://www.arctic.ac/de_en/accelero-s3.html

I can just repeat myself. Freaking thanks for your time and input.

Would you actually recommend to cut the heatsinks in half to cover the 1x sized VRM chips? (There are sometimes two next to each other in terms of widths, so I can put one heatsink on two. But if I put one heatsink on 1 chip it will "hand over" on the opposit site and may contact the PCB or something else.)
post #3017 of 5901
Hello all!

I recently came to my attention that the Kraken G10 was a thing and I'm about to buy one to pair it with a Zalman LQ320 to cool my Asus Radeon R9 280X DirectCU II TOP.

I've seen many reviews and videos trying to figure this out, but there is one thing that still puzzles me, and man, no one explained it!

Where do I connect the pump header and the fan header? I have two motherboard fan headers available, but I thought that I needed to connect the two headers into the GPU fan header using a Y splitter. If it's not needed, what do I connect to the GPU and what to the motherboard (An Asus Maximus Hero VI)?

Thanks!

Edit: What do you think of the Zalman LQ320 AIO? I still have to buy it, but I think it's a pretty solid cooler and one of the few that fits in a 120mm fan slot. The rear fan slot of the BitFenix Ghost only allows 120mm fans. frown.gif

Another edit: I searched for pictures of the PCB of my card and looks like it's using a custom 5-pin header. What sould I do?

Edited by Deses - 3/30/15 at 9:51am
post #3018 of 5901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoly View Post

Since I order my heatsinks and some cables (Audio Y splitter, sleeved USB to USB, black fan screws) here, I could add some of these pads: http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Thermal-Paste-%26-Pads/

Otherwise I could also use arctic ones. They ship 30 of them with there Accelero S3. I just don't know if they are double sided or if I have to use them for the backside of the card to space the backplate from the components. I didn't read there manual 100% now since I'm actually playing with some numbers in terms of cash. But if you are curios:

http://www.arctic.ac/de_en/accelero-s3.html

I can just repeat myself. Freaking thanks for your time and input.

Would you actually recommend to cut the heatsinks in half to cover the 1x sized VRM chips? (There are sometimes two next to each other in terms of widths, so I can put one heatsink on two. But if I put one heatsink on 1 chip it will "hand over" on the opposit site and may contact the PCB or something else.)

I am looking on the moddiy website, and not having much luck. I have emailed one company asking if their product is double sided, so I will respond back as soon as they do. You don't need to use them with the backplate, just on the VRMs.

You want it to look something like this:


Then you mount the heatsinks on top of those pads. I would try and use one heatsink per VRM, even if you have to space them out irregularly, but try and get them as over center as possible. You don't have to cut the heatsinks in half, and I imagine that will be difficult without the right tools, so leave them as they come. Just make sure to remove the included thermal adhesive that comes pre-applied to the heatsink. Then clean the bottom of the heatsinks very well so there is no residue left over.

The only two adhesives that I am seeing on moddiy that might work are the Laid Tflex 700 Series which is very expensive, and it sounds to me like it is very messy. It sounds like it is more like formed thermal compound than a thermal pad.

The other one I am looking at is the ATI Original Thermal "Tape" I have already emailed them asking if it is double sided. Hopefully it is. If it is, then that is the one you should get from that website.

Is there no other website you can use to order from? eBay does a good job of shipping international for cheap. Most times it comes from China, and the shipping is already factored in. I have ordered many items from eBay that came from China and it worked well. If not, are there any other websites you could use?

I'm happy to help! I'm also really excited to see how a Titan performs when cooled via the G10. I just want to make sure you are doing it safely, because it is one of the more power hungry cards we have seen in recently months.
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The Peacemaker
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post #3019 of 5901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deses View Post

Hello all!

I recently came to my attention that the Kraken G10 was a thing and I'm about to buy one to pair it with a Zalman LQ320 to cool my Asus Radeon R9 280X DirectCU II TOP.

I've seen many reviews and videos trying to figure this out, but there is one thing that still puzzles me, and man, no one explained it!

Where do I connect the pump header and the fan header? I have two motherboard fan headers available, but I thought that I needed to connect the two headers into the GPU fan header using a Y splitter. If it's not needed, what do I connect to the GPU and what to the motherboard (An Asus Maximus Hero VI)?

Thanks!

Edit: What do you think of the Zalman LQ320 AIO? I still have to buy it, but I think it's a pretty solid cooler and one of the few that fits in a 120mm fan slot. The rear fan slot of the BitFenix Ghost only allows 120mm fans. frown.gif

Another edit: I searched for pictures of the PCB of my card and looks like it's using a custom 5-pin header. What sould I do?

I would go for a Corsair H55 instead of the Zalman. Its the same 120mm, and not as prone to pump failure which the Zalmans apparently are. You should also look into adding a 2nd 120mm fan if room and budget allows.

Is this the PCB of your GPU?


If it is, thats a good looking card with heatsinks already on the VRMs.

For plugging the pump and fan(s): There are a few ways to go about this, but I'm going to mention the most common and most recommended. Also, if you end up buying a 2nd 120mm fan, you will need to buy a 3 or 4pin Y-Splitter for the radiator fans. If not going with two fans, then no Y splitter is needed.

With the pump you have two options. You can either plug it into the motherboard, and then set that motherboard fan header to 100% on RPM mode. Or you can use a Molex to 3pin adapter and plug the pump directly into the PSU. Either way you choose, you want the pump to be running at or near full speed.

For the radiator fan, I will recommend you have it plugged into a motherboard fan header, this will give you the greatest amount of control. If you buy a 2nd 120mm fan, this is where the Y splitter comes in handy. You will plug both 120mm radiator fans into the Y splitter, then use the Y splitter on the motherboard fan header, giving you control over both radiator fans so you can fine tune the noise:performance you want.

Lastly, the 92mm fan. What I strongly recommend is buying a VGA to PWM Adapter. This allows you to plug the 92mm fan into the GPU. In that picture above on the lower right hand side, you will see kind of a beige looking fan header. It is a special header, which is why you need that adapter. You plug that adapter in, then plug the 92mm fan into that adapter. You will then control the 92mm fan through MSI afterburner. Do not set up a fan curve. You want this fan to be running at or near 100% at all times. It is very important to have this fan running at full speed.

If you don't want to buy that adapter, you can plug it into the PSU via molex to 3pin adapter. Or you can find another open motherboard fan header, and have it run at 100% at all times in Fan Xpert.
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The Peacemaker
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post #3020 of 5901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deses View Post

Hello all!

I recently came to my attention that the Kraken G10 was a thing and I'm about to buy one to pair it with a Zalman LQ320 to cool my Asus Radeon R9 280X DirectCU II TOP.

I've seen many reviews and videos trying to figure this out, but there is one thing that still puzzles me, and man, no one explained it!

Where do I connect the pump header and the fan header? I have two motherboard fan headers available, but I thought that I needed to connect the two headers into the GPU fan header using a Y splitter. If it's not needed, what do I connect to the GPU and what to the motherboard (An Asus Maximus Hero VI)?

Thanks!

Edit: What do you think of the Zalman LQ320 AIO? I still have to buy it, but I think it's a pretty solid cooler and one of the few that fits in a 120mm fan slot. The rear fan slot of the BitFenix Ghost only allows 120mm fans. frown.gif

Another edit: I searched for pictures of the PCB of my card and looks like it's using a custom 5-pin header. What sould I do?

I can just speak for the Kraken X41 / 61 series. On the 61 you need 1 fan header, 1 usb header and 1 sata header and for the 41/31 you need 1 usb header (of 2.0) and 1 fan header.
Edited by Evoly - 3/30/15 at 12:43pm
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