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[Official] NZXT Kraken G10 Owner's Club - Page 465

post #4641 of 6447
Quote:
Originally Posted by MEC-777 View Post

I have all my fan controlled via fan xpert through the motherboard. I can set custom fan curves for the rad fans, but the problem is fanXpert doesn't read the GPU temps. It only reads CPU or motherboard temps, which doesn't help.

So I set 3 stages of custom fixed rpm profiles in fan Xpert and just use the little desktop hidden widget to change between silent, standard or turbo mode, depending on how demanding the game I'm playing is. It's quick and easy to do, if I remember to do it.

Been thinking about getting the NZXT Grid + to run all my fans because then the CAM software will actually allow me to control the fans by GPU temp. wink.gif

I don't know why motherboard manufacturers haven't implemented fan control based on GPU temps as GPUs produce the most heat in most PC setups.

Im a little spoiled, but I have a 4th monitor over the center screen of my surround setup. All I use it for is monitoring software ............current draw, cpu and both gpu temps and several other pieces of random software that I like to use to monitor. But it is nice to see it all right there over me.
   
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post #4642 of 6447
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR4G00N View Post

It's a 3:1 ratio of water and ethylene glycol I think, you don't have to worry about it all since it won't start boiling till 140-150C, if not higher.
I was of the thinking that they were just using distilled and some basic anti-corrosion and anti-bacterial/organism additves. Of course the former may well be glycol but pretty sure 25% concentration of glycol is not going to do much for you. (Looked it up...) Looks like at atmospheric pressure, 25% glycol only raises the boiling point to just a little above 100C. The reason why ethylene glycol is more effective in cars is because typically the concentration is much higher (40-60%) and, more importantly, it's under pressure--usually about 15psi gauge. (Incidentally this is why when you remove the pressure cap from a car's rad or surge tank, when the vehicle is hot, the coolant can instantly boil as you just relieved the pressure in the system.)

Even 70% glycol only raises the boiling point to 116C, without pressurisation. And I seriously doubt you're getting any kind of pressure even near to 15psi with AIO/CLC coolers given the hoses, connectors, and rads show no evidence they'd ever withstand that pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MEC-777 View Post

I've had both my 290's with H55's hit 90C+ when I forgot to turn up the rad fans while gaming. 800rpm isn't enough apparently, lol. But it was no problem, they can take quite high temps without failing so don't worry. wink.gif
Granted it's still probably above 100C but given the fact that localised boiling and vapourisation may occur before that, it's much safer to stay a good bit below 100C IMO. 90C is probably where you'd (or again at least I) would want to be peak, but not continuously. Also if your 290s hit 90C that doesn't mean the liquid did, necessarily. If it was for a short time, the liquid probably didn't get all the way up there.

You guys are free to run your AIOs at 100C if you wish but personally I'd not be comfortable getting anywhere near that and under regular use I haven't seen any dies they were cooling get nearly that high either.
Edited by WindowsRevenge - 10/23/15 at 11:28am
post #4643 of 6447
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultisym View Post

Im a little spoiled, but I have a 4th monitor over the center screen of my surround setup. All I use it for is monitoring software ............current draw, cpu and both gpu temps and several other pieces of random software that I like to use to monitor. But it is nice to see it all right there over me.

Yeah, I have a 2nd display I use for watching movies, youtube etc. while gaming and more importantly, for monitoring temps with MSI AB. I happened to glance over after gaming for a while and saw both cards approaching north of 90C. Alt-tabbed out of the game, switched to the turbo fan profile in fan Xpert and all was fine as the temps crept back down. wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by WindowsRevenge View Post

Granted it's still probably above 100C but given the fact that localised boiling and vapourisation may occur before that, it's much safer to stay a good bit below 100C IMO. 90C is probably where you'd (or again at least I) would want to be peak, but not continuously. Also if your 290s hit 90C that doesn't mean the liquid did, necessarily. If it was for a short time, the liquid probably didn't get all the way up there.

You guys are free to run your AIOs at 100C if you wish but personally I'd not be comfortable getting anywhere near that and under regular use I haven't seen any dies they were cooling get nearly that high either.

Nobody is saying it's OK to run that hot, nor are we OK with running our hardware at temps that high. We're just saying that they can handle much higher temps than what you're running at and thus; you have nothing to worry about. That's all. wink.gif

I think maybe you misunderstood. I don't run my 290's at 90C all the time, nor do I want to. They generally run in the high 50's, low 60's under load. They only ran that hot once when I forgot to turn up the speed of the rad fans while playing a demanding game, that's all. And I only mentioned that to prove the point that these AIO's can handle higher temps without failure.
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post #4644 of 6447
Hi again,

Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.
post #4645 of 6447
Quote:
Originally Posted by anti-duck View Post

Hi again,

Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.

@4thKor should be up in a few hours. He likes to talk about backplates and shims and washers.
    
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post #4646 of 6447
Quote:
Originally Posted by hertz9753 View Post

@4thKor should be up in a few hours. He likes to talk about backplates and shims and washers.

Haha! Awesome tongue.gif
post #4647 of 6447
Quote:
Originally Posted by anti-duck View Post

Hi again,

Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.
You don't need anything special. Use the stock screws and Kraken backplate, but remove the rubber washers from the thumbscrews and take off the foam standoffs.
post #4648 of 6447
Quote:
Originally Posted by anti-duck View Post

Hi again,

Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.


You need M2.5X30mm screws to mount the NZXT backplate on the back of the EVGA backplate (or M2.5X25mm screws) if you do not use the NZXT backplate. The stock screws won't work since they are too small to accommodate the backplates and shim correctly. For using the NZXT backplate you will need to peel off the foam on the backplate which is very easy to do.

I didn't use any washers but any washers that are good for a M2.5 screw should work. For copper shim the PS3 YLOD kit for fix is better than a 1.6mm copper shim as the 25X25X1.6mm shim keeps on moving about whereas the PS3 42X42X1.2mm shim was a perfect fit for me and conducts heat properly even if it moves slightly (which it will trust me).

Screws: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00917LV9M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
Shim: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VCU2SK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Edited by KickAssCop - 10/25/15 at 5:51am
post #4649 of 6447
Quote:
Originally Posted by anti-duck View Post

Hi again,

Just wondering if anyone can tell me which finishing washers (and possibly screws) I would need to mount the G10 to my 980 Ti without the NZXT backplate? Bear in mind that I'll be using the EVGA backplate, mid-plate and a 1.6mm copper shim.

If you already have a backplate you do not need the nzxt back plate. The existing backplate is already isolated from the PCB. If the screw heads are larger than the holes in the backplate you dont even need washers. But use them if you wish.
   
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post #4650 of 6447
I use these with the stock bolts.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E3Q7H8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
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