****RELEASE THE KRAKEN!****
This little bracket makes liquid cooling your gpu affordable and fun! Mount any Asetek type cooler to it and have your own closed loop water cooling system for your compatible GPU!
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click to go to manufacture website
///NZXT KRAKEN G10 ///
The G10 bracket comes in 3 colors
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SIGN UP!
**Please also note if your card is a nonrefrence PCB!**
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1Fnq6cf2IPWqYKgqueJZsX64GdA8yAF8SORt_M-DNSaI/viewform?embedded=true
Members
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AmvdkgjzatVUdDV1ck9iY0FuWG1uRXZYSzR3NzY5N0E&output=html&widget=true
Here is the code..................................................................................
Code:
Here is what it looks like
NZXT KRAKEN G10 CLUB
Please take time to post and tell us what type of AIO cooler, gpu, and tips you have for mounting this bracket! Along with what kind of temps you are getting. This information will help future users get a better Idea of what to expect.
This little bracket makes liquid cooling your gpu affordable and fun! Mount any Asetek type cooler to it and have your own closed loop water cooling system for your compatible GPU!
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
click to go to manufacture website
///NZXT KRAKEN G10 ///
The G10 bracket comes in 3 colors
*** The Kraken G10 Is also compatible with many non reference GPUs too! Please check the form sign up for other members with non-reference cards **Original corsair H50 will not fit properly** Compatibility Nvidia : GTX 980, 970, 780 Ti, 780, 770, 760, Titan, 680, 670, 660Ti, 660, 580, 570, 560Ti, 560, 560SEAMD : R9 290X*, 290*, 280X**, 280**, 270X, 270 HD7970**, 7950**, 7870, 7850, 6970, 6950, 6870, 6850, 6790, 6770, 5870, 5850, 5830The compatibility list is based on AMD Radeon and NVIDIA's reference board layout, screw spacing and die height only. Please check the height restriction before purchase.* Some variation in die thickness and height may cause issues with screws being too short to install on some AMD 290-based cards.* Do NOT force the G10 to fit if your card is too thick, contact support for a revised screw set.** Some variations in AMD die height may require the use of a shim.Compatibility NZXT : Kraken X60, Kraken X40Corsair : H105, H110, H90, H75, H55 , H50Antec : KUHLER H2O 920V4, KUHLER H2O 620V4, KUHLER H2O 920, KUHLER H2O 620Thermaltake : Water 3.0 Extreme, Water 3.0 Pro, Water 3.0 Performer, Water 2.0 Extreme, Water 2.0 Pro, Water 2.0 PerformerZalman : LQ-320, LQ-315, LQ-310
I will try to post some helpfull tips under this section... One of the best tips is to add small heatsinks to the memory and vrms. While the fan on the Kraken does keep these in check its generally accepted that adding these little heatsinks help with overclocking and cooler running. Or if your like me and have the acclero twinturbo 3 you can use the "backside" cooler off of the kit and cool the memory/vrms too.
Here is a sample of the heatsinks member idewitt found and a person can get to cool there memory and vrms.
Here is a sample of the heatsinks member idewitt found and a person can get to cool there memory and vrms.
1. MEASURE YOUR 120/140mm slot before getting an AIO. I have a HAF923 and the H90 doesn't actually fit in to the 140mm back slot (with hoses oriented towards the ground) with a Noctua NH D14, couldn't fit it sideways since the pump blocks the side panel from closing. In the end, I lashed the radiator in to the 5.25 inch bays. In hindsight, I would've purchased a 120mm radiator AIO knowing this.
2. AIO Hose length, more is better. I would advise against the H90 for future buyers, this is cost optimized for the CPU cooling thus the hose is 4 inches shorter than the Kraken X40 despite identical specs (both are identical Asetek units) This extra 4 inches would've allowed me to mount the rad at the rear with the hoses oriented towards the ceiling (thus not needing to be zip tied) and still use the NH D14.
3. Mounting: the bracket has to be mounted to the GPU with the AIO, I suggest clearing space in the case prior to doing this since this will ease the final insertion of the GPU + AIO assembly later. Only 2-3 turns of the screw driver is neccessary, the fit is quite snug, any more and you risk cracking the GPU die or warping the PCB.
Results The Sapphire Tri X cooler was a brilliant design, the fans were placed in such a way that the air from the 3rd fan blows directly on to the VRM 1 area which was direct contact cooled with the whole heatsink frame. Thus, at 50% fan speed (barely audible) the core is 72 degrees (ambient 22) and VRM1 is around (75 degrees), VRM 2 is 45 degrees in EVGA OC scanner (a variant of Furmark)
Kraken G10 + H90 with no additional VRM cooling The overall noise is equivalent to the Tri X at 40% fan speed The core never peaks above 45 degrees but VRM 1 hovers around 82 degrees, VRM 2 reaches 60 degrees in EVGA OC scanner
Thus, I strongly recommend aftermarket VRM heatsinks if you want to overclock or using high stress apps, while the 92mm fan does a respectable job, there's actually an air dead zone in the VRM 1 assembly which lies directly under the 92mm fan's motor. If any of you has seen the Puget systems review, I believe this manifests as the giant red spot on the thermal camera. I recommend also either thermal adhesive (Arctic Alumina is the safest as I have read read 1 report of someone blowing a board fuse using excessive Arctic Silver adhesive) or a screw type heatsink assembly. DON'T use Sekisui 5760 for the VRM1 area. This tape has maximum adhesion around the 50-60 degree temperature range, 70-80 starts to see a degradation in the bond as the glue becomes less viscous. debonding starts to happen at 90-100 degrees over repeated cycles. Useful dimensions and features: On a reference AMD board, the distance from the first screw hole centre to the second centre on the VRM 1 area is 85mm The height clearance from the RAM chip to the NZXT bracket is ~5mm The height clearance from the VRM 1 zone to the NXZT bracket is ~6mm The width of the VRM area from the Choke to the nearest capacitor is 13mm The whole assembly takes 2 slots. The AMD VRMs are metallic and despite the size difference, are the exact same height. I have just ordered the GELID Enhancement kit for 290X from these guys http://www.feppaspot.com/servlet/the-897/GELID-Solutions-Icy-Vision/Detail so I don't have to DIY my own VRM sink.
2. AIO Hose length, more is better. I would advise against the H90 for future buyers, this is cost optimized for the CPU cooling thus the hose is 4 inches shorter than the Kraken X40 despite identical specs (both are identical Asetek units) This extra 4 inches would've allowed me to mount the rad at the rear with the hoses oriented towards the ceiling (thus not needing to be zip tied) and still use the NH D14.
3. Mounting: the bracket has to be mounted to the GPU with the AIO, I suggest clearing space in the case prior to doing this since this will ease the final insertion of the GPU + AIO assembly later. Only 2-3 turns of the screw driver is neccessary, the fit is quite snug, any more and you risk cracking the GPU die or warping the PCB.
Results The Sapphire Tri X cooler was a brilliant design, the fans were placed in such a way that the air from the 3rd fan blows directly on to the VRM 1 area which was direct contact cooled with the whole heatsink frame. Thus, at 50% fan speed (barely audible) the core is 72 degrees (ambient 22) and VRM1 is around (75 degrees), VRM 2 is 45 degrees in EVGA OC scanner (a variant of Furmark)
Kraken G10 + H90 with no additional VRM cooling The overall noise is equivalent to the Tri X at 40% fan speed The core never peaks above 45 degrees but VRM 1 hovers around 82 degrees, VRM 2 reaches 60 degrees in EVGA OC scanner
Thus, I strongly recommend aftermarket VRM heatsinks if you want to overclock or using high stress apps, while the 92mm fan does a respectable job, there's actually an air dead zone in the VRM 1 assembly which lies directly under the 92mm fan's motor. If any of you has seen the Puget systems review, I believe this manifests as the giant red spot on the thermal camera. I recommend also either thermal adhesive (Arctic Alumina is the safest as I have read read 1 report of someone blowing a board fuse using excessive Arctic Silver adhesive) or a screw type heatsink assembly. DON'T use Sekisui 5760 for the VRM1 area. This tape has maximum adhesion around the 50-60 degree temperature range, 70-80 starts to see a degradation in the bond as the glue becomes less viscous. debonding starts to happen at 90-100 degrees over repeated cycles. Useful dimensions and features: On a reference AMD board, the distance from the first screw hole centre to the second centre on the VRM 1 area is 85mm The height clearance from the RAM chip to the NZXT bracket is ~5mm The height clearance from the VRM 1 zone to the NXZT bracket is ~6mm The width of the VRM area from the Choke to the nearest capacitor is 13mm The whole assembly takes 2 slots. The AMD VRMs are metallic and despite the size difference, are the exact same height. I have just ordered the GELID Enhancement kit for 290X from these guys http://www.feppaspot.com/servlet/the-897/GELID-Solutions-Icy-Vision/Detail so I don't have to DIY my own VRM sink.
.......................................................................................................................................
SIGN UP!
**Please also note if your card is a nonrefrence PCB!**
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1Fnq6cf2IPWqYKgqueJZsX64GdA8yAF8SORt_M-DNSaI/viewform?embedded=true
Members
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AmvdkgjzatVUdDV1ck9iY0FuWG1uRXZYSzR3NzY5N0E&output=html&widget=true
Here is the code..................................................................................
Code:
Code:
[CENTER]:Snorkle: [B][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1487012/nzxt-kraken-g10-club] NZXT KRAKEN G10 CLUB[/URL][/B] :Snorkle:[/CENTER]
Please take time to post and tell us what type of AIO cooler, gpu, and tips you have for mounting this bracket! Along with what kind of temps you are getting. This information will help future users get a better Idea of what to expect.