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FX 8320 3,5 GHZ vs. A960D+ - Page 2

post #11 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Here's some things i would recommend doing I'll start with things that won't cost any money.
1. reduce the voltage of the cpu, down to around 1.15-1.2v, if it's still stable at 3.6ghz try lowering it a bit more.

So to interpret you right on your method 1:

Disabling Turbo-Core, setting multiplier 18x (3600 MHZ), Reduce CPU-VID to let´s say 1.1586 and do a restart and stability test is the idea? rolleyes.gif

Sorry, i am kind of noobish, just read that undervolting can´t damage anything. wink.gifbiggrin.gif
post #12 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbozz View Post

So to interpret you right on your method 1:

Disabling Turbo-Core, setting multiplier 18x (3600 MHZ), Reduce CPU-VID to let´s say 1.1586 and do a restart and stability test is the idea? rolleyes.gif

Sorry, i am kind of noobish, just read that undervolting can´t damage anything. wink.gifbiggrin.gif
Disable Turbo Core, leave the CPU on stock frequency (3.5GHz) and drop the voltage down until your CPU becomes unstable when stress testing (aka, starts failing workers in Prime95, don't test for stability with AMD overdrive since it's crap), then set the voltage to lowest stable value. On 3.5Ghz it can generally go down to the 1.150-1.225V range, it depends on the chip.

And no, undervolting can't damage anything, it actually makes the CPU/motherboard live longer and run cooler. smile.gif
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post #13 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Disable Turbo Core, leave the CPU on stock frequency (3.5GHz) and drop the voltage down until your CPU becomes unstable when stress testing (aka, starts failing workers in Prime95, don't test for stability with AMD overdrive since it's crap), then set the voltage to lowest stable value. On 3.5Ghz it can generally go down to the 1.150-1.225V range, it depends on the chip.

And no, undervolting can't damage anything, it actually makes the CPU/motherboard live longer and run cooler. smile.gif

Didn´t do the job, even when undervolting to 1.2250 V, won´t last for long under 65 Degrees

Smart Fan is on Performance by the way....mmm...maybe the cpu is so cool, that the heatsinks don´t be bothered by my fan.

This Board is a shame biggrin.gif, guess i will go with standard config, left off ideas.

Disabling 4 Cores, naaaaah. biggrin.gif

Maybe messing around with the NB-VID? But idk, i am starting to getting afraid of blowing my system up. smile.gif
post #14 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbozz View Post

Didn´t do the job, even when undervolting to 1.2250 V, won´t last for long under 65 Degrees
To be honest, you didn't go very far, 1.225 is about the highest undervolt for these chips I've ever seen, on an 8320 with 1.32V stock voltage you should aim lower for the 1.150-1.200V range. Mine can do 1.156V with all 8 cores enabled on 3.5GHz and I even got it to work at 1.118V by going one core per module ways (which, if anyone is even interested, makes it nearly capable of running passive on a Mugen 4 heatsink in a system without a single fan in it biggrin.gif ), going lower makes it fail to boot. As I said, you can't damage the CPU/mobo by reducing CPU voltage, you can only extend component life.

By the way, which temperature gets to 65C, CPU itself or something else? In that AIDA64 pic you posted, my guess is that "Motherboard" value is the Northbridge, "CPU" is actually the socket, and "1. CPU / 1. Kern" is the CPU temperature, my 970A-UD3 has similar designations. My guess is the socket.

Also, as some have already said, put a fan to blow over the VRM area (between the CPU and rear I/O) unless you want to blow up the board, it's a must on un-sinked 4-phase boards and 125W CPUs. And one behind the CPU socket, to make sure the socket doesn't overheat either.
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post #15 of 27
To be honest, I would contact Biostar about the issue first and see what they say. (If you have not already, that is.) I checked the specs on that board and they claim that it will handle an FX 8350 and FX 8320 but clearly, unless your board is defective or you have a power supply issue, the board cannot do what you need it too. Have fun. thumb.gif
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post #16 of 27
Thread Starter 
Okay, just did another try, 1.200 V is running stable, but in the end we still reach our magic 65....i noticed the cpu-fan goes up lower at about 1200 rpm, guess i have to try something different...
Quote:
By the way, which temperature gets to 65C, CPU itself or something else? In that AIDA64 pic you posted, my guess is that "Motherboard" value is the Northbridge, "CPU" is actually the socket, and "1. CPU / 1. Kern" is the CPU temperature, my 970A-UD3 has similar designations. My guess is the socket.

Yep, the Motherboard Value rises, my guess is also the Northbridge.
Quote:
Also, as some have already said, put a fan to blow over the VRM area (between the CPU and rear I/O) unless you want to blow up the board, it's a must on un-sinked 4-phase boards and 125W CPUs. And one behind the CPU socket, to make sure the socket doesn't overheat either.

I tried several configurations with my fans, but nothing really changed....
post #17 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbozz View Post

Okay, just did another try, 1.200 V is running stable, but in the end we still reach our magic 65....i noticed the cpu-fan goes up lower at about 1200 rpm, guess i have to try something different...
Put the CPU fan to constant 100%.
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbozz View Post

Yep, the Motherboard Value rises, my guess is also the Northbridge.
I just realized which board this is, and this thing is hell! Northbridge gets very hot very fast since it has integrated graphics on it that can't be disabled (unless you physically rip out the NB die, but I'd advise against it), I had burns on my finger from one of those things, definitely needs a fan over it. The VRMs aren't all that bad as long as you have a fan blowing on them, and you need to have a fan there when running an 8-core.
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbozz View Post

I tried several configurations with my fans, but nothing really changed....
By "put a fan to blow on VRMs" I mean to put a new fan that is set to blow directly on the little black square mosfets between the CPU socket and the rear I/O, not to turn your case fans around or reconfigure them or anything like that. Any fan size would do as long as it doesn't obstruct the CPU cooler (I use the 60mm fan I got with my CPU cooler), but make sure it blows directly onto those mosfets. And put a fan on the Northbridge too, having one behind the socket wouldn't hurt either.
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post #18 of 27
heatsink on the vrms with a fan ghetto it haha as well as undervolt.

i would just grab a cheap used board tho. got my as rock extreme 3 r 2.0 for 40 bucks it will handle a stock 8 core ok, i run a 6300 in it now @ 4.4 with no issues
 
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post #19 of 27
Thread Starter 
Guess the best thing is thinking off for a new motherboard then...because there is not much room for a ghetto fan... maybe a cheap cooler, cooling the vrm´s? Perhaps an Arctic Freezer pro 7? It´s just such a pity, you go for a water cooling and think, ok everything cool now, and then you have problems with the heat..biggrin.gif
post #20 of 27
Yeahhh new mobo
    
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