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How to OC in exact 13Mhz intervals with EVGA Precision X? - Page 3

post #21 of 23
1254.5 is not a multiple of 13... tongue.gif No decimals when multiplying whole numbers.

As for the different programs reporting speeds that differ by a whopping 2/10ths of a Mhz, come on... For one, software reporting is never truly 100pct precise, which you can see with CPU BUS speeds all the time.

It could also be down to the fact that you are running multiple monitoring and overclocking programs, which can and does cause issues on a frequent basis. Pick one, and scrub your system of every last "bit" of the others. This is something that is not news, but it's your choice to ignore ssomething or not.


Reading your quoted post and, honestly, with the attitude you present, you are not exactly encouraging people to go out of their way to help you. EVGA cards are absolutely top of the top, but the GK110 die still comes from the mothership and thus is subject to the SIGNIFICANT variations in overclocking ability. You have a card that is advertised, and sold, with an explicitly listed clock speed, and that is the highest speed you can expect, because overclocking is a game of pushing your luck, and sometimes luck runs out. Calling a top tier card a "POFS" because it won't reach what is frankly a very optimistic speed on stock air cooling, well, I'm sorry but you will likely come across few "golden" (silver/platinum/Einsteinium, whatever) chips unless you are binning hundreds. It isaabsolutely not EVGA's fault that your card won't reach (very optimistic) clocks on air cooling, so long as it works with zero problems at the advertised speed, they have fulfilled 100 percent of their obligations.

If high clocks are what you want, well, there's a reason some of us pay the premium for the ultra premium, built from the ground up for intense overclocking cards like the Classifieds and MSI Lightnings. Heck, 1250 is about the limit for the hugely capable design of the Classy board, power phases, etc, and the Classy has a better cooler (although to me, one just sucks less, because I know that I need to have significant cooling to reach the clocks I want, and water is the only way to really break through that wall)...


My suggestions...
- Literally scrub the system of every single GPU OC program except for the ONE you intend to use
- Re-do the power connections, using COMPLETELY different cables from the PSU to each power input, rather than using a cable that plugs into a single PSU out and splits off a second 8/6+2/6 pin plug after the first using the same wiring... It puts a LOT of completely pointless stress on the cable (using a 1-to-2), and splitting the load across two independent cables can have a significant effect on reducing ripple and other "no-no's"; clean in is clean out.
- Restart your overclock from scratch using a fresh install of the ONE program you chose
   
Z77 Bench-a-lot
(31 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3930K @ 4.92Ghz Asus Rampage 4 Extreme EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB  EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws-Z @ DDR3-2248 9-10-9-26 1T Samsung 830 256GB SSD WD10EZEX 1TB HDD 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
WD10EALX 1TB HDD Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB WD3200AAKS 320GB HDD WD5000HHTZ 10krpm 500GB VelociRaptor 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W Custom MB-Backside VRM-sinks (Copper) 3x NZXT RF-FX140LB 1-2krpm 98.3CFM Case Fans 2x Corsair SP120-PE Case Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
4x Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm Fans Comp/Rotary Fittings (BP/XSPC/Monsoon) Primoflex Pro LRT - White (1/2x3/4) Windows 7 Professional 64bit  
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
Dell P2210Hb 21.5" 1920x1080p Viewsonic VA2012WB 20.1" LCD 1680x1050 Dell U3014 Eizo 27" 1440p 10bit RGB-LED Backlit AH-IPS Panel 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
55" LG HDTV (their top 2014 model) Ducky Mechanical (Browns) NZXT HALE90 850W + 8 blown-up AX1200/i's NZXT Switch 810 (White) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
R.A.T.3 + MX510 My Desk GRADO RS1i Headphones Grado PS1000 Headphones 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Bitfenix Hydra Pro Fan Controller 5ch 30W/ch Bitfenix Alchemy Individually-Sleeved Extension... NZXT Individually-Sleeved Front Panel Wires (Bl... Phobya Sleeved 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Fan Splitter 
OtherOtherOther
Sleeved Wires w Paracord myself (no Heatshrink) Custom Front and Top Panels w HexxMesh *In Prog... Working on Custom Pedestal Prototype 
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Z77 Bench-a-lot
(31 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3930K @ 4.92Ghz Asus Rampage 4 Extreme EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB  EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws-Z @ DDR3-2248 9-10-9-26 1T Samsung 830 256GB SSD WD10EZEX 1TB HDD 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
WD10EALX 1TB HDD Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB WD3200AAKS 320GB HDD WD5000HHTZ 10krpm 500GB VelociRaptor 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W Custom MB-Backside VRM-sinks (Copper) 3x NZXT RF-FX140LB 1-2krpm 98.3CFM Case Fans 2x Corsair SP120-PE Case Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
4x Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm Fans Comp/Rotary Fittings (BP/XSPC/Monsoon) Primoflex Pro LRT - White (1/2x3/4) Windows 7 Professional 64bit  
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
Dell P2210Hb 21.5" 1920x1080p Viewsonic VA2012WB 20.1" LCD 1680x1050 Dell U3014 Eizo 27" 1440p 10bit RGB-LED Backlit AH-IPS Panel 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
55" LG HDTV (their top 2014 model) Ducky Mechanical (Browns) NZXT HALE90 850W + 8 blown-up AX1200/i's NZXT Switch 810 (White) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
R.A.T.3 + MX510 My Desk GRADO RS1i Headphones Grado PS1000 Headphones 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Bitfenix Hydra Pro Fan Controller 5ch 30W/ch Bitfenix Alchemy Individually-Sleeved Extension... NZXT Individually-Sleeved Front Panel Wires (Bl... Phobya Sleeved 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Fan Splitter 
OtherOtherOther
Sleeved Wires w Paracord myself (no Heatshrink) Custom Front and Top Panels w HexxMesh *In Prog... Working on Custom Pedestal Prototype 
  hide details  
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post #22 of 23
Thread Starter 
I figured it out. What Precision X reported at 1254Mhz it would save in a log as a 1252Mhz. Other programs would also report one clock, but log a slightly different one. I figured out an OC that made all programs log the exact value of 1254.5Mhz and now all is set! My OC stayed the same and its fine because throttling part was gone completely.

All is good - thanks to all!
post #23 of 23
Thread Starter 
Just a note regarding EVGA cards quality. I only had 2-card experience, one of which resulted in a burned and dead card, but that was my fault. This card I got had a really nice polished heatsink but one of the worst TIM applications I have ever seen. Almost all of the TIM was beyond the edges of the dye but the dye itself barely had any TIM on it! So, TIM application was overdone & too much was used and yet, it was under-done for the dye! I don't know how good the quality of the TIM was on the first card or the second card, but such poor application resulted in temps at least 3-4C higher of where they would be if high-quality TIM was applied properly. The original TIM was extremely hard to spread - it felt dry! Luckily, Noctua NT-H1 saved the day.

The heatsink itself was good, but even after tighly screwing it back on top of the GPU, there was still room for movement and flexibility. I am sure it was meant to be that way, else my temps would go way up, instead of down after Noctua NT-H1 application, but it felt very flimsy. The same goes for power connectors - they were rather weak, bending the PCB even with slight pressure.

The next thing is that EVGA uses reference power phase for their SC ACX card offers with 1x 6-pin and 1x 8-pin connectors, while ASUS DirectCU 2 card offers, identically priced, have higher power phase and 2x 8-pin connectors. GTX 780 and GTX 780 Ti reference designs have one major weakness - VRMs. These weak VRMs often get fried faster than / before GPUs, limit overall OC, and ability to handle TDP above the reference 265W. Higher power phase = better VRM, likely higher OC, and ability to handle higher TDP better. EVGA does offer higher power phase cards, but they are more expensive than ASUS DirectCU 2 cards.

Why did I go with EVGA? Supposedly excellent warranty! At least that is what I heard and since this was a very expensive investment for me, I needed to feel secure and safe in case something went wrong past the first 30 days of purchase. I am not sure if I am safe though, because I am not using stock BIOS - I use Skyn3t BIOS that was based on the exact BIOS my card came with. If it dies and I am unable to flash back to stock - I don't know if EVGA will l look into it and approve RMA replacement. They say EVGA warranty is very liberal, but their policy says they may deny cards with non-stock BIOS for RMA replacement if those cards do not come with Dual-BIOS feature, which is not a feature on my SC ACX card... I don't know if may = very likely or may = not likely, but I don't feel safe after reading that policy, which is something I should've done before buying instead of relying on what people were saying about EVGA warranty. Again, my fault, but EVGA warranty is still better than ASUS non-warranty, which is often compensated by the higher quality products.

Side questions:
What lowers temps and improves card stability better - baseplates or backplates? EVGA uses baseplates on their cheaper cards, while ASUS uses backplates in almost all the cards. Also - is it true that backplates can actually trap heat instead of cooling VRAM and VRM chips? I know my ASUS motherboard has heatsinks on top of VRMs and also on the bottom, so I would guess backplates do help with videocard cooling and not make ti wrose. I wonder if adding a backplate to my SC ACX cards will improve my RAM and VRM temps. I think it would at least make it less flimsy. I should have one for free for receiving a card with such a bad TIM application, which I should've taken pictures of! biggrin.gif J/K wink.gif.
Edited by MonarchX - 5/17/14 at 7:08am
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