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Super Flower Leadex and rebrands/variants club - Page 320

post #3191 of 3909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reystar View Post

I will use a 2 way outlet splitter, i think it looks the simplest and safest way as it will just the same thing as having another outlet wired nearby...1 outlet of the splitter will go to the UPS and the other one to the powersplitter, seems like a good plan i think

Sounds OK to me. But keep an eye on the UPS in case it doesn't like the combination for whatever the reason (**** happens).
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post #3192 of 3909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reystar View Post

@shilka some guy over some other forums (linustechtips i think?) told me that awhile back the Super Flower Leadex was found to have issues when severe brownouts occurred at the wall the PSU is plugged into and was encouraging me not to buy one

Do you know anything about this?
first
at least in my industry
3 phase - black out loss of all power on all 3 legs
brown out - loss of one leg, or power dropping too low on one or more legs

single phase -
black out loss of power ( all phases )
brown out - loss of power on one leg or power dropping too low ( IE 110v on 220v leg - 220 is 2* 110v legs in the us )

please show me a single psu that will deal nicely with the power dropping too low ( 90v, 80v? on 115v ) japan afaik has the smallest voltage of any country at 100vac and the bottom for most all electronics is 100vac that i have seen
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reystar View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Sometimes bad outlets or bad wiring (low quality power being delivered to the PSU) can cause major problems for even the best PSUs. So, if the power is bad to begin with, a brownout could cause major problems.

My old HX650 handled a brownout beautifully about 3-4 years ago. The 100W incandescent bulb in my ceiling light fixture looked like a dim night-light, yet my computer was still working just fine. Even my monitor was fine. Of course, my speakers, router and cable modem weren't working during the brownout. smile.gif

A UPS will help with all that scenarios though right?

( a pc working through a brown out ) your house ( in the us ) has 2 phases of 115 it is quite possible that one phase was not affected
as to the question of reystar usually yes a ups will work great for what you need
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reystar View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Yeah, an Uninterruptible Power Supply powers your computer with its batteries when the input power drops too low (or is cut completely). That provides you with enough time to turn the computer off properly. Some people refuse to be without a UPS, even if they pretty much never have any problems with their power. I don't really have a good excuse for not having a UPS, other than it would take up space that I really don't want it to take up.

Great, i just ordered this one https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1500pfclcd

Now i gotta figure out how to connect power strips, powerlines , ups and all other devices on just 1 wall plug lol
great choice ! great ups !!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thoth420 View Post

FWIW my EVGA 850 P2 and 750 G2 both trip my backup quite frequently so maybe there is something to that claim. My previous Corsair RM 1000 and TX 750 basically never did. Same brand same unit battery backup in the same outlets obv same location. Just my 2 cents

I am having issues with my sig rig and never consider the PSU since it all seems RAM or chipset/cpu related but maybe I should try a different PSU. I would be sad to go back to Corsair units...

what do you mean " trip my backup " do you mean ups? by trip do you mean the built in circuit breaker ? need mor einfos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reystar View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Is that known to be a good UPS? I don't know UPSs. I just know the basic idea of how they work.

Are you sure that wall outlet (it's not a plug tongue.gif) can handle everything you intend to put on it? You can buy things that you plug in to the wall outlet to get more outlets, but you need to make sure the outlet itself is on a circuit that has enough power. Of course, it's good to make sure the outlet itself can have that much power passing through it.

APC and Cyberpower are the best Consumer UPS makers yes

you mean an outlet splitter? something like that:


I don't know, its not allowed to use a power strip before or after the UPS, i am not sure if i can use an outlet splitter though....

fixed for you
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post #3193 of 3909

No, my entire system was on the same outlet and the entire neighborhood was affected by the brownout (and so our entire house was affected by it). When I say "my entire system", I am talking about everything I mentioned in my post. If my computer's PSU and monitor were still receiving 115 or 120V, then my speakers, router and cable modem would've stayed on. Like I said, it wasn't just our entire house that was affected; it was the entire neighborhood.

 

I later asked Phaedrus2129 how my PSU and monitor were able to do this, and he taught me that the reason why they were still working was that they automatically adjusted. Sure, they were extremely inefficient during that time, but they were automatically adjusting so as to continue providing the same amount of power.


Edited by TwoCables - 7/8/16 at 4:13am
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post #3194 of 3909
Impressive. I can see why they would esp if all digital voltage change but still.
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post #3195 of 3909
Just got my Super Flower Leadex, installed it and everything is great, i also ordered some red braided cable kit

Got a LeGrand normal Power Strip, not a one with surge protection, got my UPS too!

So here is the connectivity:

Wall outlet ---> Power Strip ---> and then on the power strip i plugged my UPS and my power line along with the Desk Lamp and one monitor

So far it says that it is working ok on Cyberpower's software so im happy smile.gif Hope it stays healthy like that xD
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post #3196 of 3909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reystar View Post

Just got my Super Flower Leadex, installed it and everything is great, i also ordered some red braided cable kit

Got a LeGrand normal Power Strip, not a one with surge protection, got my UPS too!

So here is the connectivity:

Wall outlet ---> Power Strip ---> and then on the power strip i plugged my UPS and my power line along with the Desk Lamp and one monitor

So far it says that it is working ok on Cyberpower's software so im happy smile.gif Hope it stays healthy like that xD

 

It will be fine because the power strip is grounded to your grounded outlet (it's just extending your outlet's reach) and you're also not overloading anything. Like I said, don't let that statement on CyberPower's website cause you to worry. They're just trying to reduce the number of service calls from idiots who don't know what they're doing.

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post #3197 of 3909
Two Cables, I meant that the unit kicks on for a second and then back off. My unit makes a click sound when it goes to battery so basically the symptoms of a brownout without the light flicker as my lamp is the only thing in my room not plugged into a battery backup aside my phone charger. Then again the bulb is one of those fancy LEDs that never gets hot to the touch so maybe it doesn't flicker like the old ones during a brownout. I only hear it if I am in my room so if it happened when I am elsewhere in the house I wouldn't notice unless I see the light flicker. I wish I had a clone to watch the backup 24/7 and log whenever it clicks.
P.S. battery is at 100% still as it has never seen anything worse than brownouts while systems were up.
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post #3198 of 3909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thoth420 View Post

Two Cables, I meant that the unit kicks on for a second and then back off. My unit makes a click sound when it goes to battery so basically the symptoms of a brownout without the light flicker as my lamp is the only thing in my room not plugged into a battery backup aside my phone charger. Then again the bulb is one of those fancy LEDs that never gets hot to the touch so maybe it doesn't flicker like the old ones during a brownout. I only hear it if I am in my room so if it happened when I am elsewhere in the house I wouldn't notice unless I see the light flicker. I wish I had a clone to watch the backup 24/7 and log whenever it clicks.
P.S. battery is at 100% still as it has never seen anything worse than brownouts while systems were up.

 

No, LED lights get hot to the touch. They just take a long time to heat up. Touch your LED light after it's been on for 30 minutes. Be careful; expect it to be very hot. They also take a while to cool off. Even a "40W equivalent" LED light will be warm after it has been on for a while. It might not exactly be hot, but it'll be warm. We don't possess lighting technology yet that doesn't produce heat. That's why LED lights have some sort of a heatsink or other means to dissipate the heat. If they didn't make any heat, then they wouldn't need any way to get rid of heat.

 

I've had this argument dozens of times in the past few years because it seems everyone thinks LED lights don't get warm just because they don't get hot within a few seconds after turning them on like incandescent bulbs do. Incandescent bulbs get hot super fast because there's a metal filament burning inside at an extremely high temperature. It's basically like a bonfire inside of the bulb. With LEDs, the LEDs themselves produce some heat, but the main source of heat is the part built into the base that's providing proper power to the LEDs. It's not 100% efficient, and so there's a gradual heat build-up over time due to some of the power being lost as heat. At some point, a point is reached where the LED light's cooling design reaches its limit and that's when it's at the highest temperature. This point is usually reached about 15-30 minutes after turning the light on.

 

This is why LED lights are generally not suitable for enclosed light fixtures. They will get too hot and the built-in power supply or power converter unit or whatever it is will burn out (its life will be shortened quite a bit).

 

If your LED light isn't dimmable, then a brownout will cause it to either cut off or flicker.


Edited by TwoCables - 7/8/16 at 1:16pm
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post #3199 of 3909
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

No, LED lights get hot to the touch. They just take a long time to heat up. Touch your LED light after it's been on for 30 minutes. Be careful; expect it to be very hot. They also take a while to cool off. Even a "40W equivalent" LED light will be warm after it has been on for a while. It might not exactly be hot, but it'll be warm. We don't possess lighting technology yet that doesn't produce heat. That's why LED lights have some sort of a heatsink or other means to dissipate the heat. If they didn't make any heat, then they wouldn't need any way to get rid of heat.

I've had this argument dozens of times in the past few years because it seems everyone thinks LED lights don't get warm just because they don't get hot within a few seconds after turning them on like incandescent bulbs do. Incandescent bulbs get hot super fast because there's a metal filament burning inside at an extremely high temperature. It's basically like a bonfire inside of the bulb. With LEDs, the LEDs themselves produce some heat, but the main source of heat is the part built into the base that's providing proper power to the LEDs. It's not 100% efficient, and so there's a gradual heat build-up over time due to some of the power being lost as heat. At some point, a point is reached where the LED light's cooling design reaches its limit and that's when it's at the highest temperature. This point is usually reached about 15-30 minutes after turning the light on.

This is why LED lights are generally not suitable for enclosed light fixtures. They will get too hot and the built-in power supply or power converter unit or whatever it is will burn out (its life will be shortened quite a bit).

If your LED light isn't dimmable, then a brownout will cause it to either cut off or flicker.

I touched it last night after it was on for about 8 hours approx. I know it was at least 6 because I had that long of a game session and when I finished I decided to touch it and it was ice cold. Maybe it isn't an LED bulb but it is some fancy 60 dollar non mercury non agenda 21 non coil bulb and not an old filament style either. It also manages to not break when dropped as the housing seems to be plastic or some synthetic. i just recall the packaging saying it was LED but it is just standard white light no RGB or anything crazy. I more opted to get it because I don't like those new coiled bulbs even the new mercury free ones.

I don't doubt you just decided to mention it as I left my fingers on it for almost a minute and it didn't even remotely feel warm.
Edited by Thoth420 - 7/8/16 at 3:27pm
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post #3200 of 3909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thoth420 View Post

Two Cables, I meant that the unit kicks on for a second and then back off. My unit makes a click sound when it goes to battery so basically the symptoms of a brownout without the light flicker as my lamp is the only thing in my room not plugged into a battery backup aside my phone charger. Then again the bulb is one of those fancy LEDs that never gets hot to the touch so maybe it doesn't flicker like the old ones during a brownout. I only hear it if I am in my room so if it happened when I am elsewhere in the house I wouldn't notice unless I see the light flicker. I wish I had a clone to watch the backup 24/7 and log whenever it clicks.
P.S. battery is at 100% still as it has never seen anything worse than brownouts while systems were up.

That is normal and should not be caused by power by power output but power input. I know I can adj all set points on mine

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thoth420 View Post

Two Cables, I meant that the unit kicks on for a second and then back off. My unit makes a click sound when it goes to battery so basically the symptoms of a brownout without the light flicker as my lamp is the only thing in my room not plugged into a battery backup aside my phone charger. Then again the bulb is one of those fancy LEDs that never gets hot to the touch so maybe it doesn't flicker like the old ones during a brownout. I only hear it if I am in my room so if it happened when I am elsewhere in the house I wouldn't notice unless I see the light flicker. I wish I had a clone to watch the backup 24/7 and log whenever it clicks.

P.S. battery is at 100% still as it has never seen anything worse than brownouts while systems were up.

No, LED lights get hot to the touch. They just take a long time to heat up. Touch your LED light after it's been on for 30 minutes. Be careful; expect it to be very hot. They also take a while to cool off. Even a "40W equivalent" LED light will be warm after it has been on for a while. It might not exactly be hot, but it'll be warm. We don't possess lighting technology yet that doesn't produce heat. That's why LED lights have some sort of a heatsink or other means to dissipate the heat. If they didn't make any heat, then they wouldn't need any way to get rid of heat.

I've had this argument dozens of times in the past few years because it seems everyone thinks LED lights don't get warm just because they don't get hot within a few seconds after turning them on like incandescent bulbs do. Incandescent bulbs get hot super fast because there's a metal filament burning inside at an extremely high temperature. It's basically like a bonfire inside of the bulb. With LEDs, the LEDs themselves produce some heat, but the main source of heat is the part built into the base that's providing proper power to the LEDs. It's not 100% efficient, and so there's a gradual heat build-up over time due to some of the power being lost as heat. At some point, a point is reached where the LED light's cooling design reaches its limit and that's when it's at the highest temperature. This point is usually reached about 15-30 minutes after turning the light on.

This is why LED lights are generally not suitable for enclosed light fixtures. They will get too hot and the built-in power supply or power converter unit or whatever it is will burn out (its life will be shortened quite a bit).

If your LED light isn't dimmable, then a brownout will cause it to either cut off or flicker.
Very true and why leds were not used till recently as widespread as they are / as bright
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