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Barrow Fittings - Page 24

post #231 of 857
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

I don't think anyone makes that size. Ppcs.com has 5/8 (~15.88mm) and 16mm od as their largest tube they sell.


But, there is an alternative. Its very contraversial among some in the world of water cooling and I had a go at it. Its a tricky thing though, with picking the right parts to make it all work. This alternative came from the mod-zoo guys where they took a 1/2x3/4 tube and threaded the internal diameter. This allowed them to do a uber beefy look with acrylic:


I tried this a couple of years ago and sort of failed. But there's hope if you're wanting to go down this rabbit hole Alice!

I recently had another go at it and made some crucial (and previously confirmed/tested) observations:

-The fitting/adapter is very crucial. Not all brands mill the exact G1/4" bspp threads. Some brands were notoriously bad (Alphacool), other's mediocre (ek, phobya), and lastly, the few that sort of worked still had an element of danger present non-the-less (xspc and bitspower).

I cant say for sure on Barrow but give me a couple of days to dig up my samples and i can test their threads smile.gif

-Threading the inside is very tricky. First, you need a G1/4" tap (mcmastercarr.com or ebay). Next, you need decent small to small-medium vise. And lastly, you need 1/2" internal diameter by 3/4" outer diameter tube. I'm very lucky I have E-plastics.com just 10 minutes from my home. I picked up a few rods a couple of years ago. The tube is extruded, so there's obvious variations but there's also noticeable variations in the extrusion where the walls will have significant variations in thickness. This is an element of danger you have to contend with as you want to avoid significant variations or it can crack the tube when threading it or threading/installing the fitting, and you may not get a good seal. Speaking of seal, you need to sand the ends flush and polish them to a near flat and clean surface in order for the o-ring to seal properly.

-You'll need mostly male-to-male adapters but again, brand is crucial as not all g1/4 threads are the same. Also, longer threads are ideal though this is another challenge. Long threads were common a few years back and so were the grumbling complaints about them. Even with included spacers, ppl just didn't like long threads. Eventually, the industry settled on a few mm's of threading not only for clearance, but allow block makers more intricate milling and designs with less and much more lighter materials to use (chunky blocks, aka "pig" blocks, were going out of fashion; looking at you my dear DD, rip).


After my testing, not all ends and threading went well. I had some fittings just yank out easily and others leaked. Either the variations in the tube or the crappy threads caused most headaches. Another big contributor to probable failure is that fact a G1/4 thread requires an 11.8mm hole and 1/2" comes in at 12.7mm. So you have little "meat" to actually carve your threads in. So little, most threads failed right away or went in crooked.


In all, its a bit of a waste imho even though I made a few working non-leaking samples. I got some harsh criticism in the water thread but I expected that and really, in the end, it makes no practical sense going at it in this manner: It may seem like I submitted to peer-pressure and gave up but in reality, I gave into common sense and wanting to avoid pissing off the bawhz (aka wife).


You can have 1/2 id tube if you go w/ Monsoon 5/8 od or 12mm id w/ 16mm tubes.























Lastly, you can have 3/4 od going with some traditional soft tube.


Wow very informative! Rep for you sir...this is why we are here correct? To push ourselves, just saw an SMA8 build yesterday using 12mm tubing, and they look like drinking straws, it's so tiny and quite frankly, looked out of place to me. Just my opinion though, 16mm would look decent but to get the full bling factor, i want to try 19mm.

I can get the tubing and the tap, i'm confused on what fitting i can use though. I guess a dual rotary male to male G1/4 fitting? That way i can thread into the port or elbow and just spin it to make it stay? As for leakage, likely i'll seal off the thread with plumber's cement so it stays put on that end, and just remove the outer end if i need to clean or overhaul the system. If it leaks it'll be from the G1/4 side that goes to the rad port or elbow
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post #232 of 857
if you use some clever geometry and the appropriate angle fittings (there's 30s and 60s besides the common 45s and 90s), you can achieve soft tube runs so straight, ppl think its actually hard-tube. I've seen a few builds that easily fooled me until I observed closer the fittings where soft tube compression. I think some ppl dip the tube in a hot water bath to make it a bit malleable and then stretch it in the attempt to eliminate the soft natural curve of traditional tube. One thing I will tell you from experience, this works best with thinner wall tube: ie 3/8x1/2 & 1/2x5/8. Because of the thinner wall, there's less resistance to try and curl back into a circle.
post #233 of 857
guys,
usually how long do things get to reach you? ordered from winfmod and took the 4-8 day delivery and it's been more than that and tracking from aliexpress shows it as still being in china though shipped from seller.
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post #234 of 857
Shipping (not processing) once the courier has it:


dhl: 3-5 business days

ems/china post: 1-4 weeks


That's why I recommend try to haggle with the seller for dhl shipping if you can't get a discount on the items. aka "bulk shipping discount".
post #235 of 857
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Shipping (not processing) once the courier has it:


dhl: 3-5 business days

ems/china post: 1-4 weeks


That's why I recommend try to haggle with the seller for dhl shipping if you can't get a discount on the items. aka "bulk shipping discount".
Yeah, i msged the seller but there was no reply. Oh well, for now there's no rush. Still have another 15 days of buyer protection. When it's close to endingand if the package still hasn't arrived i'll open a dispute
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post #236 of 857
thumb.gif
post #237 of 857
@wermad thanks for the help man. Hope to post my build here soon. As previously mentioned it'll be a cpu only loop till the new cards come out
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post #238 of 857
kewl thumb.gif


I think we should start a new thread. Let me check with the admins first but I don't think its a problem if we don't call it "official". Or I'll take over this one (or have some one do it). Ill keep you guys posted.
post #239 of 857
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

kewl thumb.gif
Nice. Wouldn't mind helping you out in some capacity

I think we should start a new thread. Let me check with the admins first but I don't think its a problem if we don't call it "official". Or I'll take over this one (or have some one do it). Ill keep you guys posted.
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post #240 of 857
Got a couple of 14mm multilinks to test out on my Lil MMRS. So far I like the looks. The 3 o-rings in Barrows is just the bomb!

 
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