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[Tutorial] Sleeving EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 With Capacitors and "Stealth" Lacing - Page 3

post #21 of 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithcity View Post

Understanding the double wires is probably beyond everyone except the guys who designed the PSU,
...
The other bizarre thing about some of the double wires is difference in wire gauges as I observed when making my own pin diagram. Looks like they go to the extreme to save $ on wires by changing from 22 all the way up to 16awg wire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OwaN View Post

You're completely right about the double wires, the fact that they're obviously different gauges is very strange... like the output from the thick wire wasn't sufficient and the second wire is an auxiliary source to bolster output, but only a little bit so they don't need more than 22awg. The smaller gauge is what makes me wonder how important it could possibly be.

Nothing to do with trying to save money or boosting output.

It's called a Kelvin Bridge and it's the basis of how a voltmeter works. The smaller wires are used because they provide a higher resistance, by which you can measure voltage on the thicker wires. Although a proper Kelvin Bridge would have four sensors, PSUs use two simpler methods to do voltage sensing. One on the 3.3V often with a brown wire to pin 20, and often another method on the 5V and/or 12V lines where you add in a single high resistance force wire, and then compare to the other 5V/12V lines than don't have the force wire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithcity View Post

I guess I always thought voltage regulators help maintain a constant voltage level and that voltage levels can vary with power draw, hence corrections in the voltage regulators take place as the power draw changes leading to load regulation and line regulation ratings for voltage regulators. Perhaps I was mistaken.

Yes and no. There are going to be several places inside the PSU where voltage droops. Remember that modern PSUs have several functions: filtering mains voltage, transforming from mains voltage to 12V, smoothing AC sinusoidal signal to steady DC, down-stepping from 12V to the other voltages. All the components involved in this have different effect on the voltage, at different loads the effect is different, what you see from the PSU is the sum of those effects, plus the effect of the voltage regulators.
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post #22 of 66
^^interesting and informative response. I guess I'll have to work around it, but if I can mess around with where the splice happens its something I can probably deal with from a functional/aesthetic standpoint


As far as creating a custom set of replacement wires goes, are the standard 18 and 10pin connectors fine for the PSU side? I seem to recall reading something about some modular PSU manufacturers "keying" the PSU side connectors with non standard physical layouts.
post #23 of 66
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfsbora View Post

That is a perfect explanation! I'll make sure to do the same. I'm certainly glad I just bought a soldering iron and all of the stuff to go with it. I bought it just in case I bought a PSU that would need it. Sure enough... rolleyes.gif +1

Glad I could help. If you run into any troubles let me know :-).

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post


Nothing to do with trying to save money or boosting output.

It's called a Kelvin Bridge and it's the basis of how a voltmeter works. The smaller wires are used because they provide a higher resistance, by which you can measure voltage on the thicker wires. Although a proper Kelvin Bridge would have four sensors, PSUs use two simpler methods to do voltage sensing. One on the 3.3V often with a brown wire to pin 20, and often another method on the 5V and/or 12V lines where you add in a single high resistance force wire, and then compare to the other 5V/12V lines than don't have the force wire.
Yes and no. There are going to be several places inside the PSU where voltage droops. Remember that modern PSUs have several functions: filtering mains voltage, transforming from mains voltage to 12V, smoothing AC sinusoidal signal to steady DC, down-stepping from 12V to the other voltages. All the components involved in this have different effect on the voltage, at different loads the effect is different, what you see from the PSU is the sum of those effects, plus the effect of the voltage regulators.

Thanks for the detailed information Wisk! If their choice of wire diameter's is not based on a decision to save money, and if the diameter of the sensor wires are chosen to provide proper resistance, than isn't that design all messed up by anyone that uses a cable extension on their 24-pin cable? It seems it'd be bad practice to use 16awg cable extenders in that case.

As for the connectors on the PSU side, I'm not sure sure if EVGA's are custom or a standard set. I'd just assume use their connectors, remove the pins, re-use their cables or make your own and you should be all set.
post #24 of 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithcity View Post

isn't that design all messed up by anyone that uses a cable extension on their 24-pin cable?

I wouldn't go so far as to say it's all messed up. It'll still be within ATX spec, just not working optimally. Really you'll only see an issue if you are a reviewer wink.gif
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post #25 of 66
Question.. I have the pre-sleeved cables from EVGA for my 750G2 and since you sleeved your G2.. would it be hard to pop the connectors off the pre-sleeved cables and add cable combs from Lutro0?
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post #26 of 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACallander View Post

Question.. I have the pre-sleeved cables from EVGA for my 750G2 and since you sleeved your G2.. would it be hard to pop the connectors off the pre-sleeved cables and add cable combs from Lutro0?
It can definitely be done, just make sure that you get a good ATX Molex pin remover such as Lutro0 Customs'. For whatever reason my connectors weren't easy at all to remove the pin. They should just slide out. You may not have the same experience.
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post #27 of 66
This looks awesome, I have 2x EVGA G2 1300W with the EVGA G2/P2 Black sleeved cables from EVGA.com shop (two packs of those too), but I would really love to do that cable lacing with the extender that sit on my dual PSU cable. What kind of thread do you use for the lacing? I wish to use black if I am doing it though, I love black cabling.
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post #28 of 66
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gobigorgohome View Post

This looks awesome, I have 2x EVGA G2 1300W with the EVGA G2/P2 Black sleeved cables from EVGA.com shop (two packs of those too), but I would really love to do that cable lacing with the extender that sit on my dual PSU cable. What kind of thread do you use for the lacing? I wish to use black if I am doing it though, I love black cabling.

For the lacing I used a clear thread: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053A4FUI/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have black cables black thread makes sense. You are probably fine just going to the store (Target, Walmart, Hobby Lobby), looking at the black thread they have and pick something you like. I did have an issue with my thread being really thin. At first it snapped half way through my first row of cable threading. Moving forward I had to double up on the thread to prevent breaks.
post #29 of 66
What thickness/sizing heat shrink should be used? I see things like 1/2" 3:1. 1/4" 3:1, 3/16" 3:1. etc and don't really know which is better. I kind of assume any will work but whats the best option here?
post #30 of 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarhero23 View Post

What thickness/sizing heat shrink should be used? I see things like 1/2" 3:1. 1/4" 3:1, 3/16" 3:1. etc and don't really know which is better. I kind of assume any will work but whats the best option here?
Are you doing heatshrink or the heatshrinkless method (this still requires heatshrink)? The best option is to use the smallest gauge heatshrink for the guage of wire and also making sure it fits over the fins on the pin.
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Other Hardware Mods › Cables and Sleeving › [Tutorial] Sleeving EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 With Capacitors and "Stealth" Lacing