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[Tutorial] Sleeving EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 With Capacitors and "Stealth" Lacing - Page 4

post #31 of 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfsbora View Post

Are you doing heatshrink or the heatshrinkless method (this still requires heatshrink)? The best option is to use the smallest gauge heatshrink for the guage of wire and also making sure it fits over the fins on the pin.

Heatshrinkless but I'm specifically talking about on the double wires with capacitors where the heatshrink stays even when ends are heatshrinkless.
post #32 of 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarhero23 View Post

Heatshrinkless but I'm specifically talking about on the double wires with capacitors where the heatshrink stays even when ends are heatshrinkless.
You'll see a lot of people on here, including myself, that went without the capacitors. They are quite insignificant in the scheme of things. My 1300 G2 powers 2 OC'd 780 Ti SCs and an OC'd 3770k. My GPUs are folding non-stop for most of the week. I've had this setup for months now and haven't ran into a single issue.

Disclaimer: Please note that I am not responsible for which route you go and that it is only an opinion. tongue.gif
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post #33 of 66
What I thought would be a rather simple project turns out to be a lot more difficult than I thought. I just ordered my sleeving and 750W SuperNova G2 PSU. What are these Capacitors used for? Trying to think back in class, they allow current to flow when it's either charging or discharging...? Why are they on this PSU? Why do others say they can be removed? The thicker the diameter, the less resistance there is in a wire, so I thought that 16AWG would be fine, but now I hear that some cables want the higher resistance hence the 20 and 22AWG...

Looking at Smithcity's work, it looks like he cut a wire apart just to solder it back together? Also what is splicing a wire? Man so confused.
post #34 of 66
Thread Starter 
I didn't cut any wires apart for the 24pin cable, only removed wires from the connectors to sleeve them, then put them back into the wiring harness.

You feed the power supply an AC voltage, the PSU converts this to DC and carries power to your components. You never really have a perfectly flat DC voltage, but things are usually "clean" enough. The capacitors help smooth out the voltage, keeping it within a designed tolerance, especially under high loads.

A lot of people here remove the caps and never run their PSU beyond 80% capacity, with a high-end power supply, you can usually get away with this w/out consequence.

Hope that helps....I left the caps on as an insurance policy.
post #35 of 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithcity View Post

I didn't cut any wires apart for the 24pin cable, only removed wires from the connectors to sleeve them, then put them back into the wiring harness.

You feed the power supply an AC voltage, the PSU converts this to DC and carries power to your components. You never really have a perfectly flat DC voltage, but things are usually "clean" enough. The capacitors help smooth out the voltage, keeping it within a designed tolerance, especially under high loads.

A lot of people here remove the caps and never run their PSU beyond 80% capacity, with a high-end power supply, you can usually get away with this w/out consequence.

Hope that helps....I left the caps on as an insurance policy.

Thanks. I bought this power supply because of the 5 star rating it had and 10 year warranty. I think will keep my capacitors attached and work around them. So, sleeving the 24 pin connector will be easy, but didn't you do something called splicing? Why did you do that?



Also I didn't understand what you did here:


but with a little bit of a 'derr' moment, I figured it out...
post #36 of 66
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zinic View Post

Thanks. I bought this power supply because of the 5 star rating it had and 10 year warranty. I think will keep my capacitors attached and work around them. So, sleeving the 24 pin connector will be easy, but didn't you do something called splicing? Why did you do that?



Also I didn't understand what you did here:


but with a little bit of a 'derr' moment, I figured it out...

The G2 is great, it is rock solid!

Ahh, yes, this was a while ago, memory is failing me. These pics are from my build-log.

As for the double wire, the way the manufacturers do the double wires it is very difficult to sleeve the wires and make it look good. Instead, I replaced the wire entirely (requires that you have your own atx pin ends / crimping method), and moved the second wire to a more convenient location on the main wire such that sleeving and heat-shrink can be applied in a manner that looks more attractive.

You can see from my pin diagram (it is important that you make your own) that, for example, pin 6 from MB side goes to both pin 10 and pin 9 on the PSU side. This is why the splicing was done.

As for the last picture you referenced....yes, I cut the wire for the 4-pin molex cable, slid sleeving on, then soldered the wire back together as there was no other way to get the sleeve on between the two molex pins. The professionals would probably make their own wire from scratch, sleeve / crimp molex connectors appropriately for a continues run. I did it the lazy way.
Edited by Smithcity - 4/11/15 at 6:08pm
post #37 of 66
Hey Smithcity. I am almost done with my vga cable but I might have a problem. I know where all my cables should go back into the plastic ends, for the two cables with the capacitor on them. I don't know which ends takes on the negative end. Do you know?

post #38 of 66
Glad I found this guide, I plan to resleeve my PCIe cables, they used the worst light red color on those...
post #39 of 66
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster_is_better View Post

Glad I found this guide, I plan to resleeve my PCIe cables, they used the worst light red color on those...
I could not agree more! I was quite happy to be done with mine.
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post #40 of 66
thanks you i have my 1300 g2 cables on my desk and was wondering about the cap...
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