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MSI 970 Gaming anyone? - Page 24

post #231 of 459
Well in 5 days Ill have a new board to stick my 8350 in (GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3) and Ill give this to the father in law with my old 6300
Just hope the new board isnt a fire hazard when I oc on it thumb.gif
    
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post #232 of 459
As long as it is Rev. 4.1 or 4.0, then it will be fine.
post #233 of 459
Its a R5 (rev. 1.0) so should be ok havent seen any bad comments on new egg or tiger direct other than bios
    
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post #234 of 459
R5 has the same VRM as Rev. 4.1 & 4.0 (doubled 4+1 phase digital) smile.gif
post #235 of 459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwamotto Tetsuz View Post

I'm just saying. don't look at the brand.

So much fail in so little words......
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post #236 of 459
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stilt View Post

Those cheap thermal pads used between the mosfets and the heatsink start bleeding out the silicone oil, once things get extremely hot. High quality stuff from e.g. T-Global doesn´t bleed like that.
Can this be a problem for the UD3P?

Can you suggest a thermal pad for the EK waterblock for the Formula Z board? I was able to locate the block used but it came with no pad. I've looked into pads but have seen varying advice. Also, would the same pad work for replacing the UD3P's?
post #237 of 459
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

Can this be a problem for the UD3P?

Can you suggest a thermal pad for the EK waterblock for the Formula Z board? I was able to locate the block used but it came with no pad. I've looked into pads but have seen varying advice. Also, would the same pad work for replacing the UD3P's?
I think this is off topic.
But if your getting proper contact wihout pads. Then use non counductive thermal paste.

If not then you will need to use either a 1MM 1.5 or 2MM pad. Depends on the design of their mosfet waterblock
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stilt View Post

R5 has the same VRM as Rev. 4.1 & 4.0 (doubled 4+1 phase digital) smile.gif
If I am not mistaken were talking about the 990 ud3 right?

I had it and
It was one of a board. it clocked high with great socket temps it was awesome
post #238 of 459
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

Can this be a problem for the UD3P?

Can you suggest a thermal pad for the EK waterblock for the Formula Z board? I was able to locate the block used but it came with no pad. I've looked into pads but have seen varying advice. Also, would the same pad work for replacing the UD3P's?

You can be pretty sure that the thermal pads used by the ODMs are not the top shelf stuff. The mainstream bulk thermal pads might have thermal conductivity of 1.0 W/mK while the top-shelf stuff might be rated to 12.0 W/mK (such as T-Global TGX). I haven´t seen any pad used on Gigabyte boards to weep oil, so I´d say they are pretty decent stuff. I have no clue about the thermal conductivity of their pads thou.

Depending on the board, you might be better off with thermal paste instead of thermal pad. For example if your board has a thick and rigid PCB and the cooling element has decent mating surface finishing, then you should go with thermal paste. C5F-Z for example has extremely rigid 8-layer PCB so basically it is guaranteed that it stays relatively straight. However for boards with thinner PCBs it is recommended to use thermal pad.

If you choose to go with a thermal paste, make sure the paste you use is not conductive or capacitive. Having conductive or capacitive paste in wrong places in your VRM can make it go pop.
post #239 of 459
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stilt View Post

You can be pretty sure that the thermal pads used by the ODMs are not the top shelf stuff. The mainstream bulk thermal pads might have thermal conductivity of 1.0 W/mK while the top-shelf stuff might be rated to 12.0 W/mK (such as T-Global TGX). I haven´t seen any pad used on Gigabyte boards to weep oil, so I´d say they are pretty decent stuff. I have no clue about the thermal conductivity of their pads thou.

Depending on the board, you might be better off with thermal paste instead of thermal pad. For example if your board has a thick and rigid PCB and the cooling element has decent mating surface finishing, then you should go with thermal paste. C5F-Z for example has extremely rigid 8-layer PCB so basically it is guaranteed that it stays relatively straight. However for boards with thinner PCBs it is recommended to use thermal pad.

If you choose to go with a thermal paste, make sure the paste you use is not conductive or capacitive. Having conductive or capacitive paste in wrong places in your VRM can make it go pop.
Thanks for the post. I think the board is on the flexible side. Is there a specific pad brand/model you'd suggest? I know some of them are more conductive but I've also read suggestions from people to avoid the highest conductivity pad because it's too rigid or something.

Also, is there a thermal glue that could be used to mount DIY heatsinks? Or is the glue's conductivity too low to make it worthwhile?
post #240 of 459
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

Thanks for the post. I think the board is on the flexible side. Is there a specific pad brand/model you'd suggest? I know some of them are more conductive but I've also read suggestions from people to avoid the highest conductivity pad because it's too rigid or something.

Also, is there a thermal glue that could be used to mount DIY heatsinks? Or is the glue's conductivity too low to make it worthwhile?

In case you 're interested, i 've actually just ordered this, in the 1mm variety for an Asrock 970 Extreme3 i have, from which i have removed the pad (damn curiosity to see the mosfets) and have it on Arctic Ceramique for now.

https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/thermal-pad.html

Although here i didn't have much choice. It was the only one the shop had. biggrin.gif But the thermal conductivity is on par with that of pastes, so it should be good enough. I will probably install it in a month or so, too bored in this period. I am not sure i chose the right thickness, but i figured 1 mm should be OK...

If you consider the UD3P flexible, you haven't seen the Asrock 970 extreme3. biggrin.gif When you install the 24 pin power plug, if you don't put your finger underneath to support the PCB, you can almost touch the bottom of the case with the edge of the PCB while it bends.
Edited by Undervolter - 1/31/16 at 12:52pm
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