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0 DB build

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
I am considering this 0db build.

Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Blackout Windowed Edition.

CPU: Intel 4790k. Stock Speed. TDP 88 Watts
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117369&cm_re=4790k-_-19-117-369-_-Product

Motherboard: Asus Maximus VII Hero
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132125&cm_re=asus_maximus_vii_hero-_-13-132-125-_-Product

CPU Cooler: NoFan CR-95C Copper. Rated for up to CPUs with TDP less than 95 Watts.
http://www.nofancomputer.com/eng/products/CR-95C02.php

Memory: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance Low Profile Ram
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233252&cm_re=corsair_low_profile_16_gb-_-20-233-252-_-Product

GPU: Palit Passive 750 Ti
http://www.palit.biz/enews/event/worldwide/GTX750_Kalm/Palit-GTX750_Kalm-en_01.php

PSU: Silverstone Nitejar Passive 520
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=481&area=en

SSDs: 2x Samsung EVO 840 500gb
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147249

HD: WD RED 6TB.
http://www.wdc.com/en/products/internal/nas/

Anyone here running a 0 DB build? If so what have you encountered any issues regarding dust, heat and performance?
post #2 of 15
Cooling fan(s) for the case?
My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX6300 Black M5A99X EVO R2.0 Nvidia GTS450 Team Vulcan PC3 12800 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 PRO Asus DRW-1608P (x2) Custom Water Cooling Win7 (Ult), Win 8.1 & Win Server 2012 R2 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
MouseAudio
Logiteck G400s none 
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My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX6300 Black M5A99X EVO R2.0 Nvidia GTS450 Team Vulcan PC3 12800 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 PRO Asus DRW-1608P (x2) Custom Water Cooling Win7 (Ult), Win 8.1 & Win Server 2012 R2 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
MouseAudio
Logiteck G400s none 
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post #3 of 15
I'd just like to say that from the reviews of fanless coolers on Bit-tech and my own personal experience, the NoFan IcePipe CR95C is not a great choice. its performance is not worth the price compared to other coolers; even for a fanless cooler.

You'd be better off with one of these:
Zalman FX100 - performs slightly better for £ 52.99 on specialtech in comparison to £ 82.74 for the CR95C
NH-D14 Fanless - much cheaper than the icepipe,
Thermalright HR22
Edited by Lefik - 7/28/14 at 3:05pm
Main Rig
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570K MSI Z77 Mpower Asus GTX 980 8Gb Mushkin Redline 2133mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Intel 520 120gb WD Green 1tb slim slot load drive Noctua NHD14 
OSMonitorKeyboardCase
Windows 7 Ultimate QNIX Qx2710 @ 96hz Ducky Shine 3, MX Blacks, Magenta Silverstone RV04 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Mionix Castor Glorious XXL Extended Mouse Mat AudioTechnica AD900 Xonar DSX 
AudioOther
Antlion ModMic 4.0 Vortex Doubleshot Backlit Keycaps 
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Main Rig
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570K MSI Z77 Mpower Asus GTX 980 8Gb Mushkin Redline 2133mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Intel 520 120gb WD Green 1tb slim slot load drive Noctua NHD14 
OSMonitorKeyboardCase
Windows 7 Ultimate QNIX Qx2710 @ 96hz Ducky Shine 3, MX Blacks, Magenta Silverstone RV04 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Mionix Castor Glorious XXL Extended Mouse Mat AudioTechnica AD900 Xonar DSX 
AudioOther
Antlion ModMic 4.0 Vortex Doubleshot Backlit Keycaps 
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post #4 of 15
Oh right, a couple more suggestions;
The Silverstone nightjar 520 is a rebrand of the Seasonic 520w fanless. As much as I like Silverstone, their rebrand costs $30 more than the original, and their warranty is 1/7th of that of the Seasonic's. The only reason you should ever get the Nightjar is if you want an all white build, but that's really silly in this case.
You're going to want at least 1 case fan, fortunately Fractal's case fans are very quiet at full load, and dead silent once tuned.
Main Rig
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570K MSI Z77 Mpower Asus GTX 980 8Gb Mushkin Redline 2133mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Intel 520 120gb WD Green 1tb slim slot load drive Noctua NHD14 
OSMonitorKeyboardCase
Windows 7 Ultimate QNIX Qx2710 @ 96hz Ducky Shine 3, MX Blacks, Magenta Silverstone RV04 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Mionix Castor Glorious XXL Extended Mouse Mat AudioTechnica AD900 Xonar DSX 
AudioOther
Antlion ModMic 4.0 Vortex Doubleshot Backlit Keycaps 
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Main Rig
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570K MSI Z77 Mpower Asus GTX 980 8Gb Mushkin Redline 2133mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Intel 520 120gb WD Green 1tb slim slot load drive Noctua NHD14 
OSMonitorKeyboardCase
Windows 7 Ultimate QNIX Qx2710 @ 96hz Ducky Shine 3, MX Blacks, Magenta Silverstone RV04 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Mionix Castor Glorious XXL Extended Mouse Mat AudioTechnica AD900 Xonar DSX 
AudioOther
Antlion ModMic 4.0 Vortex Doubleshot Backlit Keycaps 
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post #5 of 15
Trying to go fanless on some parts, especially the CPU cooler, seems pointless when you have a mechanical drive in the build. And if you have the stuff enclosed, you'll definitely need some forced airflow with at least one fan (probably multiple at lower speeds is better) or else things will overheat under load anyway. At this point you may as well help your CPU out with a normal tower cooler running a decent fan at ~500 rpm or so. Same for the GPU, depending.

Also, this stuff all makes electrical noise above 0 dB, never mind the drive.
post #6 of 15
All PSUs make noise, even fanless. All VRMs make noise.
...

You can't make 0dB really.

Super quiet sure but not 0dB.
Remove all HDDs, replace with SDDs. If you have an ODD they you are nuts!
Any PSU that runs fanless will work.
Get as open a case as possible and orient everything to allow airflow go from bottom up.
You will probably want fully perforated top and sides and bottom, well as much perforation and open space as you can.

Desktop might be better for this than a tower, so the heat goes out instead of cross over other components, like GPU heat going over CPU.

How long can you run fanless is only a matter of how much heatsink area you have and how much power you put into it. It's best to have back up fans to kick in when necessary.
post #7 of 15
I don't have too much of an issue with my ODDs - suspending them properly makes a huge difference IMO.

Seasonc fabless are great, but if you're not drawing loads of wattage most of the Gold and Platinum models are "fanless" for most part also - i.e. don't spin up until 50% load.

I'd use a low speed fan on the CPU cooler and case too - even a small amount of airflow will help cool everything.
post #8 of 15
No such thing as a 0db case, apart from one that is unplugged. Even a fanless PSU has a DB reading, not much, but its not zero. Plus putting a mechanical HDD in there defeats the object of the exercise right from the start. Quietest storage is cloud, or other remote storage.Or of course SSD.
You will need air movement, or heat WILL build up, so high volume slow spinners from a grade a manufacturer are the only option, plus careful build and layout throughout.
For sub 125 watt CPUs I use Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro Rev.2 coolers, easy fit,. do a decent cooling job and the fans are super quiet up to a few years old, the the units are cheap enough to buy another and just swap the new fan for the old one. Cheaper than getting a new fan from the spares dept in Switzerland!
I am using a Be Quiet Silent Wings 120mm case fan, running from a splitter cable from the CPU fan port, so it just kicks in when that does.
The.SSDs are a decent choice but I would have a 128 EVO as a boot and the others as data.The performance difference between the 128EVO and the 128Pro is remarkably close, the EVO is in fact faster in some operations! So you would never know a difference in boot times.
All components and case screws need to be well fixed and tight to stop hums and vibration, and you could use sound deadening mats on the inner case sides.
Heat is your main concern on a silent build, be very aware of it.
post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefik View Post

I'd just like to say that from the reviews of fanless coolers on Bit-tech and my own personal experience, the NoFan IcePipe CR95C is not a great choice. its performance is not worth the price compared to other coolers; even for a fanless cooler.

You'd be better off with one of these:
Zalman FX100 - performs slightly better for £ 52.99 on specialtech in comparison to £ 82.74 for the CR95C
NH-D14 Fanless - much cheaper than the icepipe,
Thermalright HR22

^ this. i'd do the Noctua NH-D14 and remove the fan. even if you go without fans on the CPU and GPU heatsinks, you still might need some air to flow through the case. unless you plan on underclocking all your parts. if you do end up needing some case fans, i'd recommend getting some large (140mm or more if you can) fans from a company like noctua who is famous for making low noise, high performance fans.
The Black Box
(21 items)
 
Area 6
(10 items)
 
craptop (Rev III)
(10 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Athlon II X2 260 M2N68-AM Plus NVIDIA GeForce 7025 / NVIDIA nForce 630a G.skill 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOS
G.skill western digital velociraptor Western Digital Caviar SE microsoft windows vista 
PowerCase
antec 330w rosewill atx mid tower 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Turion 64 X2 Mobile TL-50 30B0 Standard VGA Graphics Adapter g.skill 2x2 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
WD scorpio blue stock optical drive not good enough! windows 7 ultimate 
MonitorPower
it has mercury in it battery. 30 minutes of charge at most on light ... 
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The Black Box
(21 items)
 
Area 6
(10 items)
 
craptop (Rev III)
(10 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Athlon II X2 260 M2N68-AM Plus NVIDIA GeForce 7025 / NVIDIA nForce 630a G.skill 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOS
G.skill western digital velociraptor Western Digital Caviar SE microsoft windows vista 
PowerCase
antec 330w rosewill atx mid tower 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Turion 64 X2 Mobile TL-50 30B0 Standard VGA Graphics Adapter g.skill 2x2 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
WD scorpio blue stock optical drive not good enough! windows 7 ultimate 
MonitorPower
it has mercury in it battery. 30 minutes of charge at most on light ... 
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post #10 of 15
Just a thought on silent PSU. with a pico converter and outboard switch mode power supply running at half its capacity you can get pretty close to no noise. some high frequency whining going off but you can thither dampen that if you foil wrap and PVC tape it like a mummy. obviously its only good for a light use setup more suited to audio and film scenarios. have to watch the wattage which most online calculators seriously over estimate compared to test results smile.gif

If you need fans 140mm low rpm have a much less offensive frequency biggrin.gif
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