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== Haswell-E Overclock Leaderboard & Owners Club == - Page 1674

post #16731 of 22010
Yeah...you're right. Didn't pay attention.
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post #16732 of 22010
Quote:
Originally Posted by arh-Roland View Post

Coming back with some thoughts :
1st i replaced the Noctua TIM with CLU....the result was terrible...higher temperatures than before, hard to apply, verry hard to remove from the cooler heatsink, i actually had to sand my h100i gtx in order to get all the metal from it.
2nd...replaced the CLU with Kryonaut...temp seem a bit lower than with Noctua.
3rd....I've flipped the rear fan and made it as an intake...didn't saw any change in temperatures.
Here's a screen with temps using Kryonaut:


Will think about changing my cooler to a H110i GTX and hope that my temperatures will decrease 5*C or more.
Or pay more and get better performance with a Predator 360....asumeing this screen is true : Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Those temps look pretty good for what you've got it doing. If you want an aio liquid cooler, definitely give the swiftech's (h240 h220 h320) a look.

CLU scares me, conductive, destroys aluminum, hard to apply, impossible to remove.
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post #16733 of 22010
I live in a 3rd world country named Romania. I do not have access to Swiftech :|.
Regarding CLU...never...ever ...in my life will try and use that stuff....i may applied it wrong... or w/e...but no...never smile.gif)
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post #16734 of 22010
Quote:
Originally Posted by arh-Roland View Post

I live in a 3rd world country named Romania. I do not have access to Swiftech :|.
Regarding CLU...never...ever ...in my life will try and use that stuff....i may applied it wrong... or w/e...but no...never smile.gif)

CLU and CLP are really only useful when delidding a processor - useit between the die and IHS. Other applications require appropriate contact surfaces... eg, perfectly flat. ( and it will form an alloy with other metals). The regular TIMs are so good today there is no need for it between the IHS and block. Stick with Kryonaut, Gelid extreme, PK-3, PK-1. Even NT-H1 is very good! Mount quality affects heat transfer most. thumb.gif
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post #16735 of 22010
Small grain of rice method, and the screws were tighten only with hands.
Was impressed by Kryonaut...verry good, will use only this in the future.
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post #16736 of 22010
That's the thing though, I've never really had an issue with MX-4. But Kryo works really good too. I guess if you need to drop a C or two, Kryo will do that. I should probably do a repaste soon.
post #16737 of 22010
Had to increase to 1.213V for seems to be full stability. :/

It`s a over avg chip do, so i`m happy! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
After a few hours BF4. Ambient is a bit cold tho, 20¤C or so. Playing on 64 bit server, so getting the most usage out of it at least.

Voltage on core is 1.213V. Dunno why Aida64 reads it differently. When i`m under ``overclock`` it reads it normally.
I guess this is more than enough for 24/7. I also guess i can increase to 4.6 without an issue if i want to. Though don`t want to run more than 1.250V for 24/7. 4.6 i think needs a bit over that. (1.265 or so)
post #16738 of 22010
Nice chip. Try and clock your cache to 4.5...you would probably need 1.17 for that...or 1.18
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post #16739 of 22010
Quote:
Originally Posted by arh-Roland View Post

Nice chip. Try and clock your cache to 4.5...you would probably need 1.17 for that...or 1.18
Not at all. Cache on this chip is not that great. 4000 needs 1.125V to be stable. But the core is most important.

I want to sell my mem and get something new, faster mem. But dunno how the IMC can handle it (compared to Skylakes improved IMC)
post #16740 of 22010
I would not bother with the memory...you gonna throw more money and get not so much improvement. Btw what are you cooling it with ?
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