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post #19421 of 22233
Quote:
Originally Posted by sexpot View Post

Are these all E-Die modules?
No, the 3200c14 are B-die
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post #19422 of 22233
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimir View Post

No, the 3200c14 are B-die

What is the difference between b and e die? Is there a reason to get one over the other?
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post #19423 of 22233
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synik View Post

What is the difference between b and e die? Is there a reason to get one over the other?
It's the difference of revision on the chips under the heat-spreader, if I'm not mistaken, E-die goes higher in frequency ( 3866c18-22-22-42, 4000c19-21-21-41, 4133c19-25-25-45) while B-die get lower timings (3200c14-14-14-32, 3600c16-16-16-36 and newer 3200c13 and 3600c15 as well).
Also B-die only exist in 8GB stick while E-die is available in 4GB
B-die 3200c14 is the following - 5WB:
c63a0075__MG_4847.jpeg
and E-die 5WE:
b9f21c2f_IMG_4007.jpeg

On HW-E, the higher frequency is not what we are interested in as the IMC is what's limiting us, so it's better to get the lowest timing ones. And it was shown multiple times that B-die is pretty much plug & play while the other "die" had stick not recognized at the advertised timing and voltage (which need more fine tuning and can be a pita for those that never touched memory settings).
Edited by Kimir - 6/17/16 at 7:58am
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post #19424 of 22233
The B die sticks are plug in play because 8GB is single sided vs double sided on D and E die 8GB dimms

That said I'm excited for G skills new high density B die skus, or I may just get the highest bin 128GB kit. Just not sure how my IMC will do at that density and 3200 @ C14
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post #19425 of 22233
Hi!

I've installed my XE240 rad now and my temps seems to be a bit on the high side.

When folding Nacl they're about 55-60¤C. Package is on 65¤C. This is with 6x Eloop @780 RPM on EK XTX360 and 2x Eloop 780RPM on EK XE240. My D5 is running on 80%.

OC is 4500/4000 on 1.250V/1.100V, VCCIN 1.900V. GPU is idle.

I find it quite high?

Can some of you with the same CPU/voltage test Folding Nacl? (You can find it online, here )

Cheers! cheers.gif

EDIT: I know your loops are going to be different, but is good to know where I'm at compared to others. I'm using a Supremecy Evo, with the 2011-3 jetplate.
post #19426 of 22233
^ what's your ambient temps like? That will also play a factor into your temps as well. Especially now since it's summer season. With an 8 core cpu oc'd to 4.5/4.0 that seems like a decent temp. I can't give you a comparison right now since my build is on hold due to mobo packaging frown.gif
post #19427 of 22233
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreedyMuffin View Post

Hi!

I've installed my XE240 rad now and my temps seems to be a bit on the high side.

When folding Nacl they're about 55-60¤C. Package is on 65¤C. This is with 6x Eloop @780 RPM on EK XTX360 and 2x Eloop 780RPM on EK XE240. My D5 is running on 80%.

OC is 4500/4000 on 1.250V/1.100V, VCCIN 1.900V. GPU is idle.

I find it quite high?

Can some of you with the same CPU/voltage test Folding Nacl? (You can find it online, here )

Cheers! cheers.gif

EDIT: I know your loops are going to be different, but is good to know where I'm at compared to others. I'm using a Supremecy Evo, with the 2011-3 jetplate.

Those temps seem about right.
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post #19428 of 22233
Hi guys,

So I'm new to watercooling. I got me two EK rads. I "rinsed" them with room temp distilled water and shook them for about 3-5 min and repeated up to three times max. Since there was only like 1 micro spec of black dust that came out, I thought it was clean; however, after reading on some of the other threads, people stated that is not long enough. Should I drain my loop and use hot water on the rads, shake like crazy, and leave water in it overnight to make sure nothing comes out? Or can just do that in a few months when i change out the coolant and hoses? I should have came to this board first instead of reading EK's instructions saying, "...no need to rinse..."

When you empty out the loop for the 6-12 month maintenance, do you guys just drain and refill, or run distilled water through the loop to clean out the parts or disconnect even the waterblocks, disassemble them then rinse with distilled water one by one?
post #19429 of 22233
Ran into a weird problem I had a failed sleep attempt and ive seen it when my overclock is unstable. Went in and messed with some settings but now no matter what i do my 5820k is locked at 33 multipler in the OS. I have flashed to the latest bios and reset all OC settings but still i pull up real temp or hw monitor and both say it is maxing out at 3.3ghz. Im at a loss and dont know why it is locked at 3.3. any ideas?
    
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post #19430 of 22233
windows energysaving settings. i think you are in the "performence mode" that let the cpu run at max cloc kall the time
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