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Athlon 860K, any one picking it up? - Page 204

post #2031 of 3195
Is anyone interested with an apples to apples single-rank vs dual-rank memory test specific to the 860K and not an APU with integrated graphics in use? I found that Kingston sells a set of the HyperX I have that is identical in every way (timings, sub-timings, etc) but is a dual-rank 16GB kit instead of a single-rank 8GB kit. I ordered it already, should be here tomorrow. If anyone knows of good tests to run for this let me know.
post #2032 of 3195

All my PSUs are Seasonic KM3 Golds so that my cable sets are interchangeable but I can get them under different badges with lower prices, such as the XFX Pro Black Edition. The place to go to find out who makes whose PSUs is RealHardTechX.

post #2033 of 3195
I have a SeaSonic S12II 620 Bronze 620W that has served me very well. Quiet as a church mouse. It feeds my o.c., a power hungry R9 290x (also overclocked), 5 140 mm fans, & 5 spinning HD's . Never had a single issue.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151096
post #2034 of 3195
Alright, time for a new problem. My 860k is getting cores 2 and 3 stuck at idle. From the time I boot the computer they both stick at 1700mhz and don't move, unless I go into AMD overdrive in Windows and change the multiplier, and then it will stay at what I set it until I reboot, at which time it is back to being stuck at 1700mhz. Anyone else experience this? Its currently in the UP4, even does it with everything at automatic default settings.
post #2035 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpion49 View Post

Alright, time for a new problem. My 860k is getting cores 2 and 3 stuck at idle. From the time I boot the computer they both stick at 1700mhz and don't move, unless I go into AMD overdrive in Windows and change the multiplier, and then it will stay at what I set it until I reboot, at which time it is back to being stuck at 1700mhz. Anyone else experience this? Its currently in the UP4, even does it with everything at automatic default settings.

Thats strange, never would have thought it happens. Have you tried re-enabling CnQ and C6 ?

On a side note, thanx for the advice on PSU. In the end I bought ANTEC TPN 550W and my coil whining problem is GONE. Did some overclocking today and it appears my CPU comes in second place in "worst overclocker" category, right after your replacement one.

4.1Ghz @ 1.48v just to not have random watchdog_bsod errors, BUT, my LLC settings are all at 0% currently, so I will try to squeeze out some more with LLC tinkering these days.
post #2036 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by VordaVor View Post

Thats strange, never would have thought it happens. Have you tried re-enabling CnQ and C6 ?

On a side note, thanx for the advice on PSU. In the end I bought ANTEC TPN 550W and my coil whining problem is GONE. Did some overclocking today and it appears my CPU comes in second place in "worst overclocker" category, right after your replacement one.

4.1Ghz @ 1.48v just to not have random watchdog_bsod errors, BUT, my LLC settings are all at 0% currently, so I will try to squeeze out some more with LLC tinkering these days.

I've seen throttling like this with FX CPU's when they weren't stable, one core will drop off to idle and never come back. But only under stress, I've never seen it happen like this is. Very strange. I put AIDA64 stress test on after using AOD to set it back to my original clock speed and after 1.5 hours the two cores were back at 1700mhz. Something must be unstable but I don't know what, nothing shows up in the WHEA logs either.

Also, glad to hear the PSU solved your problem. Your other one wouldn't cause any damage I don't think but it was not the best you could have had. Now you can keep it as a spare.

EDIT: I fixed it, forgot they sent me a new board flashed with F7 Godavari BIOS, flashed back to F6 and it seems to be fine now.
Edited by Scorpion49 - 10/30/15 at 1:45pm
post #2037 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpion49 View Post

I've seen throttling like this with FX CPU's when they weren't stable, one core will drop off to idle and never come back. But only under stress, I've never seen it happen like this is. Very strange. I put AIDA64 stress test on after using AOD to set it back to my original clock speed and after 1.5 hours the two cores were back at 1700mhz. Something must be unstable but I don't know what, nothing shows up in the WHEA logs either.

Also, glad to hear the PSU solved your problem. Your other one wouldn't cause any damage I don't think but it was not the best you could have had. Now you can keep it as a spare.

EDIT: I fixed it, forgot they sent me a new board flashed with F7 Godavari BIOS, flashed back to F6 and it seems to be fine now.

LOL, so much for my thoughts about trying out the new bios... Glad the solution to your problem was easy.
post #2038 of 3195
Ok, so here we go. People were unhappy when I suggested that the dual-rank business doesn't really have much of an effect on the 860K (in contrast to the article showing an APU with an iGPU showing some significant gains). So, in the name of science I've done some testing.

Test setup:

- Athlon 860k running at stock
- Gigabyte F2A88X-UP4 (F6 BIOS)
- Zotac GTX 950 AMP! (1404mhz boost clock)
- OCZ Arc 100 240GB SSD
- Windows 7 Pro 64-bit
- Rosewill Hive 550W PSU


Memory:
- 1 single rank kit 2x4GB Kingston HyperX (Model number HX318C9SRK2/8)
- 1 dual rank kit 2x4GB Mushkin Redline (Model number 996996FR)

I've used a selection of tests that were easy to get a hold of, including the typically touted AIDA64 to prove the bandwidth difference. Yes, I actually spent $40 on AIDA64 for this. For the purposes of testing, both kits have been run at equivalent settings. Unfortunately, I ran the Kingston kit first and it was able to run at CR1, and the Mushkin kit was having nothing to do with that. CR2 or bust. I ended up having to go back and re-do all of the Kingston results at CR2, so the final settings were standard JEDEC 1600mhz 11-11-11-28, 2T, 1.5V. Sub-timings had minor differences but I wasn't going to fight stability to have them be identical.

Kingtson single-rank proof:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Mushkin dual-rank proof:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

AIDA64 bandwidth test
Warning: Single Rank (Click to show)
Warning: Dual Rank (Click to show)

So we can see here that there is a slight advantage to the dual-rank kit, nothing really to write home about though (if you want to see a gap, try this vs any Intel chip in the past 5 years).


Cinebench 15
Warning: Single Rank (Click to show)
Warning: Dual Rank (Click to show)

No discernible difference here.


Cinebench 11
Warning: Single Rank (Click to show)
Warning: Dual Rank (Click to show)

Same as CB15, CB11 doesn't really show us anything new.

SuperPI
Warning: Single rank (Click to show)
Warning: Dual Rank (Click to show)

SuperPI shows a little bit of a gain for the dual rank kit, but again a tiny margin.

3Dmark Firestrike
Warning: Single Rank (Click to show)
Warning: Dual Rank (Click to show)

Nothing here.

Heavensward Bench
Warning: Single Rank (Click to show)
Warning: Dual Rank (Click to show)

Pretty close the the same result, this bench is fairly variable but it still shows a tiny gain for the dual rank kit.


Conclusion

There seems to be a tiny gain overall using the dual-rank kit at the same settings ( I did several more tests but it shows the same thing over and over and I'm tired of uploading pictures at this point). If you're buying fresh RAM specifically for this purpose it can't hurt, but I wouldn't beat myself up trying to track down and verify the nature of the kit. With scores this close, the fastest/lowest latency kit you can afford is the best bet. A 2400mhz 8GB single rank kit is going to stomp the hell out of a 16GB 1866mhz dual-rank kit performance-wise, so if you're looking to extract every last fps out of an 860k thats the way I would go.
post #2039 of 3195
Thanks for the effort! I still want to put our not so great spare 860's in comparison test where all other components and settings are equal. Someday when I actually have a little time...hopefully not too soon, though. If I'm busy, I'm making money so I can afford to buy the parts that I won't have time to play with. If I'm not busy, I have the time but no parts. Damned vicious circle...
post #2040 of 3195

If your Dimms don't actually show how they are ranked this looks like the only reliable way of finding out.

You need a SPD reader such as RW-Read&Write to read Byte 07 of your Dimm's SPD and then you take the number of ranks  from Bits 3-5 and add 1.

 


Edited by Himo5 - 10/30/15 at 9:01pm
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