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Athlon 860K, any one picking it up? - Page 312

post #3111 of 3195
On my A88Xm-A I used some spare heatsinks + Fan from AMD sock cooler * I only used 5V on it, working all the way to 4.4Ghz at 4.5GHz I have throttling ;/

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Cheap VR bulid :)
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post #3112 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadGear View Post

Get some airflow going over the VRMs, and if you can, get a cheap pack of RAM heatsinks to stink on the VRMs (copper or alluminum will do, make sure they come with thermal tape, most do). That is some very premature throttling, probably from the economy of the board. The less costlier boards seem to really skimp on the VRMs, so much so that not much more than basic surfing/media duties are possible without throttling. Though this one at 4+1 is generally considering beefier than a lot of the lower end boards, so it might just be heat. Make sure your case interior temp is under control, or else that extra air and heatsinks wont do that much.

My first FM2 board throttled pretty bad until i did that (i posted pictures from quite some time ago far earlier in the thread) and still performs very well overclocked in my friends hands. I obv dont have the same issue with my XBR.

How do I check my interior case temp? I have no experience with this sort of stuff. This PC was basically given as a gift, so I had no control over what was put inside. The case is CiT1017 and it has one fan at the front of the case.

How would the heatsinks be installed? Do you screw them on, or what?

I mean, I'm just assuming it's the VRMs because I can't think of anything else that would cause the throttling. Research pointed to that as the likely culprit.
post #3113 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabit View Post

On my A88Xm-A I used some spare heatsinks + Fan from AMD sock cooler * I only used 5V on it, working all the way to 4.4Ghz at 4.5GHz I have throttling ;/
lachen.gif that is not gonna cut it for efficient VRM cooling. With AMD it's best to get a board with large VRM capacity and cooling. It goes the same for extreme Intel OC but for normal OC they are way more tolerant due to lower power consumption.
You might want to use either bigger alu heatsink on multiple chips at once or make copper spacer and attach a big alu heatsink on top of that copper spacer so the heatsink is above all the components while copper transfers heat to it fast. Personally I have a copper bar that is kind of good for DIY like this and many various spare alu heatsinks of all sizes.

You really want to beef that cooling up. Maybe the VRMs are running out of capacity can be an issue as well frown.gif
post #3114 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Singularity2 View Post

How do I check my interior case temp? I have no experience with this sort of stuff. This PC was basically given as a gift, so I had no control over what was put inside. The case is CiT1017 and it has one fan at the front of the case.

How would the heatsinks be installed? Do you screw them on, or what?

I mean, I'm just assuming it's the VRMs because I can't think of anything else that would cause the throttling. Research pointed to that as the likely culprit.

Having one fan that is probably intake only (blows into the case) can't be helping. There should be at least one exhaust fan, and if there can only only be one, it should be at the back of the case. The fan at the front is pressurizing the case, but without an active exhaust, the air heated up by your computer parts is probably just sort of languishing around. You need an exhaust fan.

OCing requires attention to heat control, or you will have no measurable success.
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post #3115 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackCY View Post

lachen.gif that is not gonna cut it for efficient VRM cooling. With AMD it's best to get a board with large VRM capacity and cooling. It goes the same for extreme Intel OC but for normal OC they are way more tolerant due to lower power consumption.
You might want to use either bigger alu heatsink on multiple chips at once or make copper spacer and attach a big alu heatsink on top of that copper spacer so the heatsink is above all the components while copper transfers heat to it fast. Personally I have a copper bar that is kind of good for DIY like this and many various spare alu heatsinks of all sizes.

You really want to beef that cooling up. Maybe the VRMs are running out of capacity can be an issue as well frown.gif

Better motherboard give only stable 4.5Ghz on my x4 860k tested on Asus CROSSBLADE RANGER and seriously is not worthy to buy for only 100 mhz difference, anyway heat-sinks temps on full load are around 65-70C bigger heat-sinks do not make difference, this is simple cheap 3+2 phase mobo, second hand buy, still on warranty for only $30 biggrin.gif
Edited by Rabit - 6/11/16 at 4:39am
Cheap VR bulid :)
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Cheap VR bulid :)
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post #3116 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadGear View Post

Having one fan that is probably intake only (blows into the case) can't be helping. There should be at least one exhaust fan, and if there can only only be one, it should be at the back of the case. The fan at the front is pressurizing the case, but without an active exhaust, the air heated up by your computer parts is probably just sort of languishing around. You need an exhaust fan.

OCing requires attention to heat control, or you will have no measurable success.

I think the front one is exhaust. I can see it spinning and when I place my hand over it, it's really cool to touch. I don't have any exhaust fans elsewhere, though. I can see a few mounts on the side and back of the case.

Any particular exhaust fans that would be worth buying for my case?
Edited by Singularity2 - 6/11/16 at 5:52am
post #3117 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabit View Post

Better motherboard give only stable 4.5Ghz on my x4 860k tested on Asus CROSSBLADE RANGER and seriously is not worthy to buy for only 100 mhz difference, anyway heat-sinks temps on full load are around 65-70C bigger heat-sinks do not make difference, this is simple cheap 3+2 phase mobo, second hand buy, still on warranty for only $30 biggrin.gif
It's possible to get to 4.5 on a cheaper board, but the odds are much, much better on one of the 6+2 FM2+ boards, the Crossblade Ranger, A88X-Pro, or the Giga F2A88X-UP4.

You can get a better overclock on a cheap board by adding small heatsinks to the VRM's like he did. It does help. I've done that with Giga F2A88X-D3H boards, which are pretty reliable, but they skimped on the heatsinking for the VRM's. Put some cheap aluminum sinks on them and make sure there's a bit of airflow to that area, and you can eliminate any throttling issues.

As far as whether or not it's worth it to buy one of the 6+2 boards at this point in the game, I'd advise against it unless you get a great deal. FM2+ is a dead-end platform just like AM3+, and spending an extra $30-50 on a better motherboard just for an extra 100 or 200 MHz isn't worth it.
     
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post #3118 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsc1973 View Post

It's possible to get to 4.5 on a cheaper board, but the odds are much, much better on one of the 6+2 FM2+ boards, the Crossblade Ranger, A88X-Pro, or the Giga F2A88X-UP4.

Gigabyte G1.sniper and A88X-Gamer mobos WILL go 4500 MHz stable.
As well as MSI A88X-G45 GAMING and GA-F2A88XN-WIFI (now writing this from that mobo with 7850k@4500 CPU / 1108 IGP / 2400 RAM)
post #3119 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by devl547 View Post

Gigabyte G1.sniper and A88X-Gamer mobos WILL go 4500 MHz stable.
As well as MSI A88X-G45 GAMING and GA-F2A88XN-WIFI (now writing this from that mobo with 7850k@4500 CPU / 1108 IGP / 2400 RAM)
Some will, and some won't. You have much better odds on the 6+2 boards. And a 7850K tends to be better silicon than an 860K (860K's are A10's with bad GPU sections) and isn't a 1:1 basis for comparison between the two.
     
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post #3120 of 3195
Just for gaming, what is the verdict on 880k vs 8350?
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