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post #81 of 2310
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickcooperjr View Post

Ok here you go I bumped my LLC up 1 more notch it gets the numbers you requested and tops out at like 52c to boot with 1.567v according to ASUS AI suite


Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

Sigh, I'm back down to 4.9ghz, the temperature on my socket and VRM is far too much for my system at the moment, I've asked a member for his old VRM heatsink (water) and I've sourced a NB heatsink that will fit for realitvely cheap too so once they're under water and I've more rad space I can bring down my temps and apply more voltage to get stable 5ghz but it takes over 1.6v so you can imagine the heat! biggrin.gif

Do my advice make a duct off back fan off back of tower to pull air across the VRM's don't blow air on the VRM if you blow on it the heat is pushed to the mobo and heat soaks the socket/mobo. That is how I keep my VRM's nice and cool on the same motherboard as you my VRM's never go over 55c-60c max I have ever seen with this method if I blew air on them the socket temps went up drastically and so did the VRM's temps.
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post #82 of 2310
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickcooperjr View Post


Do my advice make a duct off back fan off back of tower to pull air across the VRM's don't blow air on the VRM if you blow on it the heat is pushed to the mobo and heat soaks the socket/mobo. That is how I keep my VRM's nice and cool on the same motherboard as you my VRM's never go over 55c-60c max I have ever seen with this method if I blew air on them the socket temps went up drastically and so did the VRM's temps.

I don't have space to do that in the 500R, I'm going to get some really thin fans for the mesh panel and put that behind the socket, and as I said move the VRM and NB to water because when this gets given to my girlfriend the overclock will be turned down slightly and it will be made to be fairly silent for gaming and video rendering on water.

I agree with you on that one, the VRM heatsink is designed to push heat to the back of the case, and the NB down (this is done with the stock and aftermarket air coolers through air pretty much leaking out the side of the heat sink) so while blowing air down onto them does work, the side effect is increased socket temps. However if you look at the design of the motherboard, the VRM is close to the socket so even with air there moving the heat disserpating from the heatsinks surrounding the socket they will still heat it up a little.

How do I know this? After doing quite a bit of research into how other people cool things down I can see patterns in results etc, my biggest reason for moving the VRM and NB from air to water is to move the heat quicker and try and contain it more through other people netting good results through the conversion. Also the duct idea sounds cool but I honestly couldn't be bothered doing all that work on the 500R when I can just undo 4 screws and then hook up 4 barbs. Could you show us how you have done yours? I'm intrigued! smile.gif
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post #83 of 2310
here are a few of the basics of my cooling setup not pretty but as you have seen with my temps very functional / effective keep in mind I took these pics with my crap smart phone camera and it is very dark in the room. Benji if you ask reasonably I have no issues doing stuff like this but keep in mind benching and such at sec is out doing some heavy gaming recently and don't have the spare time to do them I currently have been playing with professional gaming Team named Team Rush alot recently.http://rush-zone.com/

my duct pulling air across and sucking the heat off VRM's directly out the back of case VIA 140mm yate loon highspeed fan the duct nearly sets level with CPU socket so draws air directly across CPU socket and mobo and pulls cool air hitting lowest point of VRM heatsink closest to mobo on the VRM / CPU socket wicking heat away very efficiently while also giving a chilling effect to rest of the VRM heatsink making the transfer of heat that much more efficient.

PLZ keep in mind the other section of the heatsink which is not the NB is connected VIA heat pipe which uses a liquid to gas transfer of something like acetone inside it the gas rises being cooled then turns back to liquid and falls so the gasses rise to the VRM heatsink which is already very cool then the gas turns liquid and falls down to lowest point of the heat pipe where it makes contact with the other chipset being cooled then it rinses and repeats. My method doubles or triples or more than that the cooling efficiency of the heat pipe cooling setup used on my board keep in mind nearly all high end aircoolers are heat pipe design so my method only strengthens / increases the efficiency already included on the ASUS sabertooth 990FX heat pipe cooling system.

This is also why the ASUS Sabertooth 990FX and many other motherboards with heat pipe cooling when laid flat don't cool properly it is because laying these flat the way a heat pipe functions can't work properly which is why test bench setups and towers that lay motherboards flat with heat pipe cooling have issues with temps and such on the things being cooled VIA heat pipe. PLZ future / present readers keep this in mind motherboards with heatpipe cooling lose a massive amount of efficiency at cooling when laid flat due to the way heat pipes work.


cummins transcooler with fans on it which I use to cool my coolant between GPU's and CPU

car radiator backside + front side


Edited by rickcooperjr - 5/18/15 at 7:06am
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post #84 of 2310
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickcooperjr View Post

here are a few of the basics of my cooling setup not pretty but as you have seen with my temps very functional keep in mind I took these pics with my crap phone and it is very dark in the room. Benji if you ask reasonably I have no issues doing stuff like this but keep in mind benching and such at sec is out doing some heavy gaming recently and don't have the spare time to do them I currently have been playing with professional gaming Team Team Rush team alot recently.http://rush-zone.com/

my duct pulling air across and sucking the heat off VRM's directly out the back of case VIA 140mm yate loon highspeed fan the duct nearly sets level with socket so draws air directly across socket and mobo and pulls cool air hitting lowest to mobo on the VRM socket wicking heat away very efficiently. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


cummins transcooler with fans on it which I use to cool my coolant between GPU and CPU

car radiator backside + front side


Sorry I don't understand what you mean, you're a pro gamer or something? I don't know what you're trying to say? Is that duct sealed around the VRM or is the back open? I'd rather just stick my VRM under water tbh.
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post #85 of 2310
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickcooperjr View Post

here are a few of the basics of my cooling setup not pretty but as you have seen with my temps very functional keep in mind I took these pics with my crap phone and it is very dark in the room. Benji if you ask reasonably I have no issues doing stuff like this but keep in mind benching and such at sec is out doing some heavy gaming recently and don't have the spare time to do them I currently have been playing with professional gaming Team Team Rush team alot recently.http://rush-zone.com/

my duct pulling air across and sucking the heat off VRM's directly out the back of case VIA 140mm yate loon highspeed fan the duct nearly sets level with socket so draws air directly across socket and mobo and pulls cool air hitting lowest to mobo on the VRM socket wicking heat away very efficiently. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


cummins transcooler with fans on it which I use to cool my coolant between GPU and CPU

car radiator backside + front side


Sorry I don't understand what you mean, you're a pro gamer or something? I don't know what you're trying to say? Is that duct sealed around the VRM or is the back open? I'd rather just stick my VRM under water tbh.

No I am not a pro gamer but I have recently been playing alot of games with them and have become friends with several of them and often play with them I have recently started playing alot more games and gaming much more recently and have gotten much more competitive at doing so.

Oh and as for the not understanding the last post I was heavily multitasking and got sidetracked while typing due to alot of people wanting me to jump on DayZ I edited it to where you should understand it a bit better sorry about that.

I made that duct out of the clear plastic cover from the box my ASUS sabertooth 990FX r2.0 had that covered the motherboard and it is open in the back just slightly but it draws 70% or more of the airflow directly across the CPU socket / motherboard / VRM's and the VRM's get the air almost at lowest point closest to the motherboard making the rest of the heatsink get chilled to room temp making it wick the heat away even faster from the VRM's.

To be short where the air hits the VRM heatsink is closest to the heat source making rest of the heatsink like a cooler / double whammy cooling effect stopping the VRM heatsink / motherboard and CPU socket from getting heat soaked as for the back I have my airflow from front fan in case 230mm channeled directly behind the motherboard almost directly at the backside of VRM / CPU socket and back of motherboard has constant airflow across entire back of board.

PLZ look at my motherboard temps they are all very well in the cool side even when ran at 5ghz x8 and pushed 100% load for long periods I believe my cooling method is very effective / efficient and adequate wouldn't you not to mention super cheap my cooling setup cost me like $250-$350 for everything waterblocks / pumps radiators you name it if attempted to do this with regular PC watercooling stuff looking at around $800-$1200 or more to reach the amount of cooling I got according to my math my liquid cooling can handle 5000w-7500w+ of thermal heat and effectively dissipate it.

I am currently dumping around 1500w-1700w of thermal heat into the cooling system with it being ran on silent mode and coolant temps only change 2c-5c when ran for hours at 100% load keep in mind room temps will rise over time so room cooling is required to keep that part in check if I run the cooling system on high mode ( which is nearly whisper silent by the way ) well coolant temps will not change at all unless I let room temps climb which my computer room has its own climate control so that is not an issue unless I let it be.

I want to also say keep in mind I have 2 of these in my tower http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703012 2x 1200w server grade power supplies.
Edited by rickcooperjr - 12/14/14 at 10:29am
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M.2 Toshiba OCZ RD400 512gb ASUS DVD rw  liquid cooled cpu and gpu's windows 10 pro 64bit 
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3 x 32lcd/led 2560x1600 wolfking timberwolf EVGA supernova 1300w G2  Thermaltake core X9 
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My System
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M.2 Toshiba OCZ RD400 512gb ASUS DVD rw  liquid cooled cpu and gpu's windows 10 pro 64bit 
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3 x 32lcd/led 2560x1600 wolfking timberwolf EVGA supernova 1300w G2  Thermaltake core X9 
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post #86 of 2310
Thread Starter 
nice idea there actually... I like it... might try that one myself next time I open up my box. + rep
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post #87 of 2310
I have a 120mm rad there not an exhaust fan so wouldn't work for me. smile.gif
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500R Chernobyl
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EK AMD LTX XSPC Nylon Dual 5.25 Reservoir Inc Laing D5  Coolgate Triple HD360 Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm 
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post #88 of 2310
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minotaurtoo View Post


Thanks to Benjiw for the logo.

interesting form that requests information that would be nice to share in this group... feel free to share either here or there... or not lol.
9590 According to your pictures it seems to prove that its certian that the worst condition of the CPU clock is 1.44V at 5GHZ and if you get the golden bin then it will be 1.33V at 5GHZ or even lower or 1.44V 5GHZ and higher
Edited by Iwamotto Tetsuz - 12/14/14 at 11:59pm
post #89 of 2310
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwamotto Tetsuz View Post

9590 According to your pictures it seems to prove that its certian that the worst condition of the CPU clock is 1.44V at 5GHZ and if you get the golden bin then it will be 1.33V at 5GHZ or even lower or 1.44V 5GHZ and higher

I'm not sure how you came to that conclusion really.... most vishera cpu's take way more than 1.44 to stabilize 5ghz usually around 1.55 or so, so far I've never seen one pass 10 runs of IBT AVX on very high with less than 1.40vcore @ 5ghz. I looked through my photos and all mine were 1.44v or higher volts for 5ghz, maybe there is one that I missed but even if I did, it'd be the energy saving features that dropped it when not under load.
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post #90 of 2310
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minotaurtoo View Post

I'm not sure how you came to that conclusion really.... most vishera cpu's take way more than 1.44 to stabilize 5ghz usually around 1.55 or so, so far I've never seen one pass 10 runs of IBT AVX on very high with less than 1.40vcore @ 5ghz. I looked through my photos and all mine were 1.44v or higher volts for 5ghz, maybe there is one that I missed but even if I did, it'd be the energy saving features that dropped it when not under load.
Diffrent cpu bins since it takes more than 1.6v to do 5ghz on some of the worst bins out there like 8350 8320etc and the worst case sernario should the turbo core frequency on stock voltage on stress no failure
Edited by Iwamotto Tetsuz - 12/15/14 at 2:25am
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