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[build log] "Chessboard" SMA8 - Page 5

post #41 of 495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Yeah I am torn about it. Yesterday I tried to get a good bend 3 or 4 times and screw it up every time....The bend I have was a little bit unaligned since it was a leftover the was weak due to a fail second 90 degree attempt and to get it re-used have to cut too much of the part that was weak and spoiled. So it was (and is still) a little bit short causing the tubes and the whole thing not to be perfectly aligned. I am still trying to get a perfect bend at least for that turn and if I got I will probably use it with one a single dual link 90 degree adapter.


What are you using for your bends? I used the monsoon bending kit for a similar ben on my build and I was able to get it nice and square. thumb.gif
   
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post #42 of 495
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinnedone View Post

What are you using for your bends? I used the monsoon bending kit for a similar ben on my build and I was able to get it nice and square. thumb.gif

Yep, have that one and a custom made wood piece where you place the whole tube in the middle of a sandwich. The problem is that I am probably been to rush and not heating up to the correct point. In several bends I got a sort of belly...
post #43 of 495
Yeah, that usually means it was too cool to bend. I used monsoon tubing (which actually bends a little different to my mcmaster practice tube) for the same bend and only heated up an area about 2 inches or so to get those 2 bends next to each other without messing up the original bend. I know I've read people mention to heat an area alot bigger than your bend but to me that didn't work out to well. I actually only heated up the area that was to actually bend plus 1/2 on either side and it worked out rather well for me.
   
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post #44 of 495
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinnedone View Post

Yeah, that usually means it was too cool to bend. I used monsoon tubing (which actually bends a little different to my mcmaster practice tube) for the same bend and only heated up an area about 2 inches or so to get those 2 bends next to each other without messing up the original bend. I know I've read people mention to heat an area alot bigger than your bend but to me that didn't work out to well. I actually only heated up the area that was to actually bend plus 1/2 on either side and it worked out rather well for me.

Will give another try. thumb.gif
post #45 of 495
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Yeah, but Mayhems Pastel is good for up to 2 years (if I recall correctly) if done it right and can give you a liter. So if you consider the longevity is not that bad as cost goes. It is not a surprise to me that EK went with a partnership with Mayhems to its new line of fluids.

what you mean about the the ek logo? The ones in the acetal brigde/head of the blocks? Oh yeah, the plan so far is either white pastel on the black fittings loop or white Aurora 2.

indeed on the gpu bridge, they are up-side-down (mind you in my rig they are too)
post #46 of 495
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SortOfGrim View Post

indeed on the gpu bridge, they are up-side-down (mind you in my rig they are too)

Correct and thks. I did had noticed before but didn't changed, but since you pointed out I got the drive to do it biggrin.gif. It looks better and the added bonus of the lines are now perfectly aligned (measure with a bubble tool level). +rep Mate thumb.gif
Edited by Gabrielzm - 11/3/14 at 11:46am
post #47 of 495
Thread Starter 
Ok folks this are previous results on the test phase of the planning. I build a test loop with only a d5+reservoir and a MPS400 calibrated (with help from my generous friend @fast_fate) and used to test each block and component individually. Then I moved to 2x d5 in series to test the loops I was planning. From those results I got the final configuration. So for example, I tested one gpu block, then 2x serial and two blocks parallel to check what kind of flow I should expect. Here is a summary of the loops part of the tests. Individual components can be found in the community testing thread here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread


Here we go some pictures of the ghetto floor test bed. Notice that this was also a test of color scheme:








and the results. you can see there is a MPS 400 flow reading and a USB highflow Aquacomputer too in some tests since the limit of the MPS400 is around 2 GPM:












So I am posting this because it might be useful to others. Also because was a lot of fun and work to do it. In the end I think I will have two loops capable of running around 1.5 GPM at 100% and accordingly be able to tune that down to silence even though the capability to reach 1.5 GPM is there. Hope you guys enjoy thumb.gif
Edited by Gabrielzm - 11/3/14 at 12:11pm
post #48 of 495
+1 Rep for the amount of work you've done in planning and testing your loop/components thumb.gif
Makes me Happy biggrin.gif
post #49 of 495
Thread Starter 
Thks @fast_fate. It was a lot of work but it was fun too and you certainly help a lot not only with the mps 400 calibration but been an incentive during the testing phase. Some progress folks:






need to cut the final pass-through and to do that I need to figure the final path. My initial idea was like it is in the pictures above, both lines of the front 240 mm going straight down. The problem is the sr1 560 is so big that conflicts with the front path. I have been searching for the smallest 90 degrees adapter and it seems the koolance and the bitspower slim are the smallest (the bitspower is only 18 mm). However even so with the pass-through I would not be able to do that. I have two potential solutions but still unsure is going to work since will be damn close. One is to cut the bitspower pass-through even to a large extent I did on the two ones below the cpu lines (you can see in the picture above - which I have to do it to not conflict with the PSU). The other is try a bend on the acrylic with a grommet but that would spoil the visual unless I am able to paint the rubber white. You can see the grommet I will be using on the front of the case just below the rad since that is the third option for this problem and my safe fall back plan (the second 240 mm rad line instead of going down would go to the back of the case using the down port on the rad and the frontal one would be closed with a black cap).

cheers.gif
Edited by Gabrielzm - 11/5/14 at 9:25am
post #50 of 495
Thread Starter 
Oh well folks...It is a no go...I have only 19 mm between the mid plate and the rad so no way I am going to fit a 90 degrees there even if using acrylic tube...Unless you guys have a rabbit from the hat to suggest me... Pictures:




you can see the small extension (black and white fitting) I place over the rad to give an idea of the size of the space I have...
Edited by Gabrielzm - 11/5/14 at 2:11pm
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