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LIAN LI PC TU100 / 200 owners club - Page 129

post #1281 of 1319
Unfortunately yes. But it's hardly visible.
post #1282 of 1319
Here's the sketch with some color coding. I hope it makes sense. I just noticed a mistake: the red text should say 3.5mm hole, not 3mm hole. I'll jsut fix that for future google searcher's sake.

53v2.1: Sketch of idea for scooting the PSU.

53v3: Moving the PSU will mean there's gonna be a 1.3-1.4cm wide hole on the bakc panel. Using a spare PCIe bracket, which is about the length of the PSU, I hope to be able to cover it up without destroying airflow. It might end up looking a bit botched, but I'm confident it will work, functionally at least.

It's obviosuly gonna look a bit ghetto, but I won't mind A LITTLE GHETTO if it gives me good results. I mean for christ's sake I already have some nasty cuts on the bottom panel biggrin.gif

I can also make 2 more holes for the middle screws if I feel like it, but 4 should be enough.

It's very easy to make it look decent and revert it though. I have some black 3.5mm PSU screws I can put in there. Shouldn't make a giant thorn in my eyes.

Note that the SF600 is 12.5cm long vs the PCIe bracket's 12cm, HOWEVER, 0.5cm of the SF600 is "hidden" by the PSU mounting cutout. The final result may end up looking kinda bad, we'll see! Otherwise, I will have to dye a sheet of perforated aluminium (being sent to me right now from the UK) with some aluminium black paint (as Simmons suggested, also being shipped to me from Germany right now) and fix that to the hole. That will look better for sure smile.gif

The absolute MAX of movement possible is 1.5cm. More than that, and the power plug won't fit, and the PSU will start to hit the side panel-brackets.
Edited by ihateolives - 4/11/17 at 1:49pm
post #1283 of 1319
Use one part of the perforated aluminium sheet to cover the gap. Spray paint it black.
post #1284 of 1319
Quote:
Originally Posted by fer9001 View Post

Use one part of the perforated aluminium sheet to cover the gap. Spray paint it black.

Using a aluminium sheet is my long-term plan, but short term I just want to use whatever's around so I can see if it's doable smile.gif.

The aluminium sheet is in shipping, but I don't know how long time it will take to arrive. Also, I have some birchwood casey aluminium black dye on the way (thanks for the tip, Simmons!). I will probably end up using that for coloring the sheet of aluminium.
post #1285 of 1319
Quote:
Originally Posted by ihateolives View Post

Using a aluminium sheet is my long-term plan, but short term I just want to use whatever's around so I can see if it's doable smile.gif.

The aluminium sheet is in shipping, but I don't know how long time it will take to arrive. Also, I have some birchwood casey aluminium black dye on the way (thanks for the tip, Simmons!). I will probably end up using that for coloring the sheet of aluminium.

As far as I can see the "cover" part would not be taking any mechanical load - so you could get away with something as simple as piece of thick paper or even cardboard spray painted black. If you want to go really fancy and have a makerlab somewhere nearby - most of them have small laser cutters so lasercutting something out of, say, 2mm acrylic would be a fine overkill option as well.
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Crucial M4 64 GB Barracuda 4 TB Sythe big shuriken rev B Windows 7 Pro 64 bit 
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
DELL U2311H (x3) DELL U2312HM (x2) 9.7'' 2048x1536 (x3) IPAD3 retina Asus PB287Q 4K 
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Kohver v.4
(25 items)
 
Kohver v.3
(21 items)
 
Soliton
(23 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i7 3820 X79-UP4 Gigabyte 390X G1 Club3D 7870 Eyefinity 6 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
64 GB Barracuda 3 TB WD Green 3 TB Crucial M4 256 GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial M4 64 GB Barracuda 4 TB Corsair LE 480HB Sythe big shuriken rev B 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Nexxos 280mm radiator DC-LT Alphacool GPX 390M04 Windows 7 Pro 64 bit 
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
DELL U2311H (x3) DELL U2312HM (x2) 9.7'' 2048x1536 (x3) IPAD3 retina Asus PB287Q 4K 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
CM Quickfire TK (red) Corsair AX-1200i Significantly modded Jupiter .. something alumi... Logitech G700s 
Mouse Pad
3M Ergonomic 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i7 3820 X79-UP4 Gigabyte 390X G1 Club3D 7870 Eyefinity 6 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
64 GB Barracuda 3 TB WD Green 3 TB Crucial M4 256 GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Crucial M4 64 GB Barracuda 4 TB Sythe big shuriken rev B Windows 7 Pro 64 bit 
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
DELL U2311H (x3) DELL U2312HM (x2) 9.7'' 2048x1536 (x3) IPAD3 retina Asus PB287Q 4K 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
CM Quickfire TK (red) Corsair AX-1200i Modded Sharkoon VS-3 Logitech G700s 
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3M Ergonomic 
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post #1286 of 1319
Quote:
Originally Posted by ihateolives View Post

Here's the sketch with some color coding. I hope it makes sense. I just noticed a mistake: the red text should say 3.5mm hole, not 3mm hole. I'll jsut fix that for future google searcher's sake.

It's obviosuly gonna look a bit ghetto, but I won't mind A LITTLE GHETTO if it gives me good results. I mean for christ's sake I already have some nasty cuts on the bottom panel biggrin.gif

I can also make 2 more holes for the middle screws if I feel like it, but 4 should be enough.

It's very easy to make it look decent and revert it though. I have some black 3.5mm PSU screws I can put in there. Shouldn't make a giant thorn in my eyes.

Note that the SF600 is 12.5cm long vs the PCIe bracket's 12cm, HOWEVER, 0.5cm of the SF600 is "hidden" by the PSU mounting cutout. The final result may end up looking kinda bad, we'll see! Otherwise, I will have to dye a sheet of perforated aluminium (being sent to me right now from the UK) with some aluminium black paint (as Simmons suggested, also being shipped to me from Germany right now) and fix that to the hole. That will look better for sure smile.gif

The absolute MAX of movement possible is 1.5cm. More than that, and the power plug won't fit, and the PSU will start to hit the side panel-brackets.

I like the scientific calm step-by-step approach of your piece of art. thumb.gif
I've seen the scrapes int the bottom and have been thinking, this man is a daredevil. How about taking 2 cases, one for experiments the other later for perfection.

Just an idea: what about using the perforated side panel and drill 2 or more holes in the top PSU side (as you flip it now) to fix it and take only 2 of the existing rear holes?

As I'll receive my 3 cpu cooler, what I miss most is a motherboard cut-out for the Cooler. I mean I own that Dremel stuff.
post #1287 of 1319
I did actually think about 2 cases, but I honestly just want one TU100. For a second case, I would go for something else entirely, possibly something even smaller with an HDPLEX PSU (S4 mini or something along those lines) or maybe a Streacom DB4.

The TU100 is a very fun machine to build/mod, but if I were to get another case, I would want a case that works in a pure stock configuration for what I want it to do, which the TU100 can't.

Regarding the side panel idea:
Do you mean attaching PSU to side panel? I'm not too keen on doing that because the side panel mounts aren't designed for bearing that much weight. It will also be obstructed by the brackets holding the side panel. I'm not exactly sure what you mean, could you make a sketch of it or something?
post #1288 of 1319
INFO: Today I removed the shroud of my ASUS 970 Mini.
It is usually at 80-81C when playing so I decide to try it out.
The result is -3C (78C) on normal fan speeds of the case. I assume if I crank up the case fan setup to full speed the temperatures will fall more, but I don't like to get higher nois level.
Striped GTX 970 Mini

Striped installed GTX970 Mini in the case

Temp over view


EDIT: The strange thing happens with full fan speed. It seam like the bottom fan get overwhelmed from front intake fan. Cosign the GPU to get again 80C.

Edited by fer9001 - 4/13/17 at 11:31am
post #1289 of 1319
Installed my Noctua NH-L12 tonight and this time it works. Temps about 15°C to 20°C lower while gaming GTA V for 40 Minutes. Mostly at about 75°C with spikes to 82°C for seconds. Fans @100%. No more 90th to 100th degrees like Noctua NH-9i. smile.gif
Have just the single 120 mm fan on top now. Will try other options. Could not use the 90 mm fan because it interfered with the heat sinks, Will try a 80 mm fan. There is only one single position to install. Maybe I flip the fan to suck the hot air out and let flow through the PSU fan. Thought the gain would be bigger so I'll test other settings.
Had to follow a strict route. If installing the cooler at first the top left main board screw gets unreachable. So I had to re-install the stuff. As well as connecting the 8 pin cpu connector before and the cpu fan connector.
Have to manage the cable jungle later.

28890169we.jpg

28890209lg.jpg

28890210ue.jpg

28890408xy.jpg

28890409da.jpg

28890432cw.jpg
Edited by Zero Clocker - 4/13/17 at 2:34pm
post #1290 of 1319
@fer

Nice mate! I always wonder if these heatsinks and shrouds and all those fancy things act more like heattraps in close/confined cases like the TU100. They might be able to absord heat, but since the airflow is poor, they're unable to get rid of the heat. The only net effect is obstruction of airflow, because simply absorbing/redirecting heat doesn't make the components cooler if the heat isn't directed out of the case eventually. That's my theory, anyway biggrin.gif

On a related note, I'm looking so much forward for my RAM/MOSFET heatsinks so I can see if I too can get some easy temperature gains by simply removing **** I don't need biggrin.gif

@Zero Clocker
That's a mighty fine looking setup you got there. I would most certainly go for an 80mm fan, if you think that is doable. I know that on the Big Shuriken 2, adding a second fan (in the case of the shuriken, it's a 60x60x10mm fan if i recall correctly) will lower temps about 2-4 degrees C. I imagine you could achieve better results on the L12 without any issues as there is better fans available for installation.

Also, don't worry about the position. Your position is pretty much optimal: when you have heatpipes, you always want to make sure that the C's are NOT(!) in the top, since this blocks the heat-directing abilities of the heatpipes - heat goes up, and if the C is in the top, there will be a gather of heat in the bend of the heatpipe . In your setup, the heatpipe C is in the bottom, so you're fine.

Also, as long as the heatsink fins are able to let go of the hot air, i.e. there is no "trap" between RAM/CPU heatsinks/Mosfet heatsinks/IO heatsinks/m.2 heatsinks, then you are fine as far as fin orientation goes.

One thing I noticed when flipping the PSU is that load peak temps went down. In my setup, the SF600 doesn't spin at all, so you might not be able to get the same results if you flip yours. AS you said yourself, it's worth trying to install the CPU fan in a pull-config, funnelling air through the PSU (like Fer has suggested).

In short: I doubt repositioning you CPU heatsink will change anything, however, toying around with the CPU fan setup and PSU setup almost certainly will show some room for improvements.
Edited by ihateolives - 4/13/17 at 2:29pm
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