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LIAN LI PC TU100 / 200 owners club - Page 131

post #1301 of 1320
Spoiler alert! By pouting a bit of nail polish on top of every knob prevents scratching the standing of surface. biggrin.gif
post #1302 of 1320
The madman Fer strikes again, using doorknobs and nailpolish to achieve victory. lol biggrin.gif

@Zero Clocker

I think those temps are a bit on the higher side, but all things considered, it isn't unheard-of stock i7-7700k temps. I just normally see these types of temps in stress-tests, and not in GTAV or whatever real-life, non-synthetic application. It's possible that the contact between IHS and contact plate of the CPU cooler is suboptimal, but impossible for me/us to say anything conclusive about it.

If I were you, I would try optimizing your voltage. My experience tells me that default BIOS setups are well into the safe zone as far as system stability goes. For my own anectodal evidence, my i7-7700k is running completely stabile at 1.07V vcore @4.2ghz (without turbo, mind you). If you haven't undervolted yet, I would highly recommend that.
post #1303 of 1320
Quote:
Originally Posted by ihateolives View Post

The madman Fer strikes again, using doorknobs and nailpolish to achieve victory. lol biggrin.gif

@Zero Clocker

I think those temps are a bit on the higher side, but all things considered, it isn't unheard-of stock i7-7700k temps. I just normally see these types of temps in stress-tests, and not in GTAV or whatever real-life, non-synthetic application. It's possible that the contact between IHS and contact plate of the CPU cooler is suboptimal, but impossible for me/us to say anything conclusive about it.

If I were you, I would try optimizing your voltage. My experience tells me that default BIOS setups are well into the safe zone as far as system stability goes. For my own anectodal evidence, my i7-7700k is running completely stabile at 1.07V vcore @4.2ghz (without turbo, mind you). If you haven't undervolted yet, I would highly recommend that.


Thank you very much for your help. Did a C-MOS reset. Re-installed cooler and TIM which I've applied a bit more than usually. The temps have gone down noticeable. Mostly around 70°C to 75°C to rare 82°C after 1 hour of gaming. It might be a factor that G.T.A V is very CPU intense. So I've to compare this with my 3930K machine.
Besides my PSU is flipped again and the left side panel is missing to lower the temps and let the PSU breath. .
Furthermore the ODD is uninstalled and the cables are cleaner now. .
Anyhow the TU-200 is a hotbox and maybe not suitable for gaming. Just rediscovered Raijintek Metis Plus. The PSU is much better located there.

What the voltage concerns could you post a BIOS screenshot of the under voltage settings?


@fer9001
I know that I've seen these knobs before. Isn't this a IKEA knob? Good idea to lower the temps and it looks nice antique. I remember having these knobs lying around somewhere.
Edited by Zero Clocker - 4/15/17 at 3:17pm
post #1304 of 1320
Got them from a local store in the near town. No idea if IKEA have the same but it must be some OEM type.
post #1305 of 1320
@Zero Clocker

The Metis Plus is a really underrated ITX case, in my opinion. For my build, I considered 3 options:

TU100B
Metis Plus (can fit long GPU's with a SFX PSU + Corsair or Silverstone ATX to SFX bracket)
Q10WX (window version is WX, non-window version is simply X)

I think either of the last 2 mentions are really good ITX cases for building a solid gaming PC with, but I don't need super high-end GPU's, and I really fell in love with the look of the TU100.

My only issue with the Metis Plus is the airflow design. By default, it's set up as a funneled exhaust in the back, but you can get better thermals by flipping the back to intake, and funnel airflow through to the PSU air intake. Doing so probably requires you to run a blower style reference-style GPU top with an exhaust on the top case fan. That was the build I had planned anyway. Doing the blower-style card isn't really my thing (too loud for me), and since double intake with no exhaust would require modding anyway, I think there's still some work needing to be done on the Metis Plus. Maybe some perforation to allow some passive exhaust, idk.

Regarding vcore adjustments, it's just a vcore offset ("CPU core/Cache voltage" in the BIOS --> offset mode). Just set offset parameter to negative (-) and adjust with between 0.010V to 0.025V (10 to 25 millivolts) at a time until you reach system instability, then go back up one notch. That's the basic idea.

Keep in mind that undervolting is infinitely more safe than overclocking in terms of damaging your hardware. The worst thing that can happen is if you somehow make a 0.250V undervolt (factor 10 bigger than you wanted to) and the system can't boot or somethign liek that. In that case, you just CMOS reset and go try again smile.gif.

Also, I have found that disabling turbo helps with achieving more stability. I'm not too sure about how AVX offsets affect undervolts, but I suspect it has a positive effect on system stability in undervolting if using a moderate AVX offset, but i really odn't know for sure. I would expect most i7-7700K to be able to undervolt to at least 0.100V from stock voltages with turbo disabled, but you will get varying degrees of success. MAybe only 0.050V, maybe 0.200V, depending on your silicone luck biggrin.gif
Edited by ihateolives - 4/15/17 at 4:31pm
post #1306 of 1320
@ihateolives
Thank you for your detailed guidance. The Turbo mode I've disabled yesterday already as I taught be myself that the turbo is already a big overclock and I used the Power Option Power saver if not gaming. My intuition is that this boards overclocks by itself. So I will follow your advice and lower the vcore. Find it a bit confusing which mode to chose and where to fill in the numbers.
Maybe you can post a screenshot.

What the Metis plus concerns I'd like a solid side panel which they do not offer. More and more I realize that Mini-ITX means MAXI-effort.
Edited by Zero Clocker - 4/16/17 at 1:03pm
post #1307 of 1320
51C idle in bios? I hope that was after running some benchmarks and quickly rebooting into bios biggrin.gif

CPU Core ratio I have set as Sync all cores and = 42x multiplier

CPU core/cache voltage i have as offset, negative prefix, and from then on you need to test yourself. Increase the undervolt by 0.010V-0.025V per step until you reach instability, then go back one step.

My final CPU core/cache voltage is 1.070V (undervolted from 1.120V or something, which I arrived at by using the Power Savings Profile autotuning like you did).
post #1308 of 1320
Thank you so much for sharing your values. Yes, that was after gaming a bit. My temps are idling at 38°C to 42°C. Vcore 0.69 @800MHz. Disabled turbo. Energy saver which gave my system peace already. Can game now at about 75°C at performance mode. Just found a video which explains the modes manual/offset/adaptive. As I will not overclock I'll test offset mode as you proposed. Negative value which is subtracted from Vcore Voltage generally while at adaptive mode you can underclock at idle and overclock under load combined.
post #1309 of 1320
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero Clocker View Post

Thank you so much for sharing your values. Yes, that was after gaming a bit. My temps are idling at 38°C to 42°C. Vcore 0.69 @800MHz. Disabled turbo. Energy saver which gave my system peace already. Can game now at about 75°C at performance mode. Just found a video which explains the modes manual/offset/adaptive. As I will not overclock I'll test offset mode as you proposed. Negative value which is subtracted from Vcore Voltage generally while at adaptive mode you can underclock at idle and overclock under load combined.

Funniest thing: I tried running my XMP profile (which had been functional before), just to see how the temperature delta would be like with a more aggressive fan profile, and boom - POST failure.

So now I had to update bios too biggrin.gif. Works now with UEFI BIOS v. 0704
post #1310 of 1320
Quote:
Originally Posted by ihateolives View Post

Funniest thing: I tried running my XMP profile (which had been functional before), just to see how the temperature delta would be like with a more aggressive fan profile, and boom - POST failure.

So now I had to update bios too biggrin.gif. Works now with UEFI BIOS v. 0704
.

That's what I've noticed. 0704 fixed XMP again. Great. BIOS Update is not a big thing if you have an additional power supply like APC Back UPS PRO USV 1200VA. When I update without the supply like the last time it's quite bit unpleasant.

Update:
Today I've entered a new level of experience : Dr. Delid and Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut.
I could not believe the results. To stress the system for reliability I took all the values which I've opted out before. Perfomance Mode 4500 MHz, DDR 2400 MHz, sync all cores, Turbo on,...
Fingers crossed, still hoping my CPU will not say farewell... This hour waiting for the glue to dry was a long asting hour with an uneasy feeling.
The spikes have gone. And at this time undervoltage isn't necessary. If the results will stay I'll apply Conductonaut (liquid metal) at the Cpu-Cooler as well.

Before I hit 100°C after 40 minutes GTA V
28977527ew.png


After De-lidding:
Idle and Turbo. The 76°C happened during CPU-Z Stresstest.
28978135tm.png28977448ff.png

Most of the time about 60°C to 65°C after 40 minutes GTA V.

28977449yp.jpg
Edited by Zero Clocker - 4/21/17 at 1:25pm
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