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post #41 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by [ShowMe!] View Post

It should be able to move about 1000 watts of heat while maintain an evaporator temp of -30C.
I really don't know the final result, I want the liquid in the reservoir to be around -25C.
I plan to run an x99 setup with a two Maxwell GM200's in SLI.
The new GPU's are very power efficient, so I think I will be able to have a great overclock, and not generate to much heat.
woot woot ?with that small compressor 1000w??
    
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post #42 of 127
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by superV View Post

woot woot ?with that small compressor 1000w??

It looks small but it is a 1hp rotary compressor. Rotary compressors have a different design than a semi hermetic type.
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post #43 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwoodsNC View Post

It looks small but it is a 1hp rotary compressor. Rotary compressors have a different design than a semi hermetic type.

ye i know.i was looking and a 10000 btu rotary compressor for a phase change will do about 400/500w @-30/-40 c.
hows that possible?with water remove more heat ?
    
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post #44 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by superV View Post

ye i know.i was looking and a 10000 btu rotary compressor for a phase change will do about 400/500w @-30/-40 c.
hows that possible?with water remove more heat ?

To be honest I am not the right person to ask this question. Drewmeister who is building this unit for me, builds refrigeration systems for a living, according to him the chiller he is building for me will have no problem moving that much heat. I have only read thru Refrigeration Basics 2 - Standard from http://www.refrigerationbasics.com my self. I have no actual experience building and tuning refrigeration systems.

It not as simple as just a BTU number, many things come in to play when it comes to the performance of a refrigeration system. I will list only the basic stuff that I know, like the horse power of the compressor, the size of the tubing, the type of heat exchangers, the efficiency of the heat exchangers, the refrigerant used, and the ambient temperature of operation, and much much more.

I really don't know, that's what we talked about, and that's what he will tune it to.

Please consider that this is also a custom built / custom tuned unit specifically optimized for this purpose, instead of an off the shelf unit or a window air conditioner.

Also I think that going from -30c to -40c requires a different refrigerant, and more compressor power for the same amount of heat removal. This is why you see cascade systems, that have two stages, when it you want really low temps. The actual numbers are not that easy to pin down.
Edited by [ShowMe!] - 12/30/14 at 12:23pm
post #45 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by [ShowMe!] View Post

To be honest I am not the right person to ask this question. Drewmeister who is building this unit for me, builds refrigeration systems for a living, according to him the chiller he is building for me will have no problem moving that much heat. I have only read thru Refrigeration Basics 2 - Standard from http://www.refrigerationbasics.com my self. I have no actual experience building and tuning refrigeration systems.

It not as simple as just a BTU number, many things come in to play when it comes to the performance of a refrigeration system. I will list only the basic stuff that I know, like the horse power of the compressor, the size of the tubing, the type of heat exchangers, the efficiency of the heat exchangers, the refrigerant used, and the ambient temperature of operation, and much much more.

I really don't know, that's what we talked about, and that's what he will tune it to.

Please consider that this is also a custom built / custom tuned unit specifically optimized for this purpose, instead of an off the shelf unit or a window air conditioner.

Also I think that going from -30c to -40c requires a different refrigerant, and more compressor power for the same amount of heat removal. This is why you see cascade systems, that have two stages, when it you want really low temps. The actual numbers are not that easy to pin down.
thanks for reply.
yes i know that there are lots of variables that comes to the real performance.
i have problems with doing 2 suction lines cpu+gpu,and i think i will go with 2x5000 btu (1.96 hp) to make cpu and gpu with own compressor.
the gas is r504 which i read is the best,and i will go with single condenser with 2 i/o lines and i will put a nice fan.
i will make a custom acrylic case,and a friend who helps me,he sed that will insulate everything with acoustic panels and stuff,and the noise will not be more than 30dB(i hope so smile.gif )
    
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post #46 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by superV View Post

thanks for reply.
yes i know that there are lots of variables that comes to the real performance.
i have problems with doing 2 suction lines cpu+gpu,and i think i will go with 2x5000 btu (1.96 hp) to make cpu and gpu with own compressor.
the gas is r504 which i read is the best,and i will go with single condenser with 2 i/o lines and i will put a nice fan.
i will make a custom acrylic case,and a friend who helps me,he sed that will insulate everything with acoustic panels and stuff,and the noise will not be more than 30dB(i hope so smile.gif )

I will share my personal experience. The two 2x5000 BTU units that I used in my chillbox had no problem what so ever, when I plug in an 845 watt electric heating element, and submerged it inside the antifreeze inside the cooler. I used a watt meter to varify it was pulling 845 watts from the wall, was sold as a 1000 watt heating element on eBay. I wish I saved usb temp probe data plot charts so I can post them, but I did not, so I will describe my experiment the best I can. The ambient outdoor temp was about 75F. The ambient antifreeze temp was about the same 75F. I plotted the cool down time with no load, and then I heated the water back up to 75F with the heating element, and plotted the cool down time with the 850 watt heating element as a load. To my surprise it made almost no effect on the time it took to cool the liquid, maby a 1min difference, what changed is the final low temperature went up by a few degrees.

What I suspect is that the AC units had more the enough power to move the heat, but the limiting factor was the refrigerant used in the AC's. The refrigerant is intended to cool air to about 60F not liquid at -15F.
post #47 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by [ShowMe!] View Post

I will share my personal experience. The two 2x5000 BTU units that I used in my chillbox had no problem what so ever, when I plug in an 845 watt electric heating element, and submerged it inside the antifreeze inside the cooler. I used a watt meter to varify it was pulling 845 watts from the wall, was sold as a 1000 watt heating element on eBay. I wish I saved usb temp probe data plot charts so I can post them, but I did not, so I will describe my experiment the best I can. The ambient outdoor temp was about 75F. The ambient antifreeze temp was about the same 75F. I plotted the cool down time with no load, and then I heated the water back up to 75F with the heating element, and plotted the cool down time with the 850 watt heating element as a load. To my surprise it made almost no effect on the time it took to cool the liquid, maby a 1min difference, what changed is the final low temperature went up by a few degrees.

What I suspect is that the AC units had more the enough power to move the heat, but the limiting factor was the refrigerant used in the AC's. The refrigerant is intended to cool air to about 60F not liquid at -15F.
very interesting +1
in my build it will be contact cooling so is different.i will test like you did to see the real cooling capacity.
i will put a probe and test.
but i don't know what to use as heat and to see the exact wattage.i will ask my friend,for sure he have something.
the sad thing is that i'm not starting the build until the next titan 2 or whatever comes out.i will make a custom block where the refrigerant expands biggrin.gif like a water block .there will be problems because i don't know which parts of the gpu needs to be cooled.i know the core but wondering bout vrms and who knows what design will have and memory where placed.
    
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post #48 of 127
Thread Starter 

 

Just gonna leave this nugget here.  :yessir:

The freezer!
(14 items)
 
My chiller build
(29 photos)
Chiller build 2.0
(48 photos)
CPUMotherboardGraphicsHard Drive
Something LGA-v3 Gigabyte X99-SOC FORCE MSI R-9 280X at 1295mhz Crucial M4 
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Custom made Chiller Windows 8 ASUS VG248QE 144Hz SeasSonic X-850 
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Chillbox G500 Belkin Logitech 4.1 
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The freezer!
(14 items)
 
My chiller build
(29 photos)
Chiller build 2.0
(48 photos)
CPUMotherboardGraphicsHard Drive
Something LGA-v3 Gigabyte X99-SOC FORCE MSI R-9 280X at 1295mhz Crucial M4 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
Custom made Chiller Windows 8 ASUS VG248QE 144Hz SeasSonic X-850 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Chillbox G500 Belkin Logitech 4.1 
  hide details  
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post #49 of 127
The anticipation is building ... is that a top lid i see there of a chillbox .. nice mate biggrin.gif

More pics man lol ...
post #50 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwoodsNC View Post




Just gonna leave this nugget here.  yessir.gif

Just a tip if your going to drill acrylic, start with a small drill bit, and move one drill bit size up at a time, until you reach the hole size you want.

If you start with a big one right away, as soon as the drill bit has enough space to grab, it will try to grab and to screw it self in like a bolt, that will crate pressure because the material is not relived yet, and will crate a nasty crack in the material.

Another tip is to dull the actual cutting tips on the drill bit so they are not so sharp, you actually want it to cut poorly, that way it will have less of a chance of grabbing hard, it will take a little longer to drill thru.

Be careful when drilling acrylic...

Also when tapping acryclic to make a thread, make sure you use a cut tap drill chart, and drill the correctly sized hole for the thread.

When you tap the actual thread, do not go all the way thru, instead go about a quarter of a turn and back off, to clear chips, doing it in one shot, might create to much pressure, and also crack the acrylic.

Source: I'm a cnc machinist...


Edited by [ShowMe!] - 1/13/15 at 10:40pm
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