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The downside of using a Phase change and/or extreme cooling

107K views 209 replies 57 participants last post by  Puck 
#1 ·
So, as some of you know I recent built a super nice rig with a phase change cooled 5960x in it. I did lots of reading and prep work to make aure I had everything insulated and done right.

After about 45 days of running with no issues I started having issues... blue screens, hard chrashean dead dimm slots etc... I tried several things but never could get it to normal, even at stock settings.

Today I finally had time to tear it down and this is what I saw.




I had heavily insulated with kneaded eraser on the front and back of the board, dielectric grease in the socketn with paper towels and armaflex over and around the socket front and back.

Im not complaining, becase I knew the risk going inn but it does suck to loose $1500 worth of equipment.

Be warned, stuff does happen!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1526237/the-downside-of-using-a-phase-change-and-or-extreme-cooling/0_100#post_23185774

Quote:
Originally Posted by MunneY View Post

Here are a few more HQ photos... I still can't get them as good as I'd like, without having to pull out my lighting kit... but you can get the jest.






http://www.overclock.net/t/1526237/the-downside-of-using-a-phase-change-and-or-extreme-cooling/0_100#post_23290760
Quote:
In other news, I took a chance this morning and talked to intel. I told them about the CPU and sent them an image and asked if I could go ahead and use my tuning plan. He just immediately filed me a warranty claim and sent it and told me to hold on to my ITP. I shipped the chip off to Intel in Louisville, KY overnight and he said he though it might ship Friday back. If not, it would ship on Monday. I can't really complain about that. They didn't even seem phased by the damage.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1526237/the-downside-of-using-a-phase-change-and-or-extreme-cooling/100_100#post_23326064

Quote:
Alright everyone! I just got word that a new CPU has been shipped from Intel and should be here Monday/Tuesday! Yippie!

Now, lets all pray to the silicon gods that its not a dud clocker.
 
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#3 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by MunneY View Post

So, as some of you know I recent built a super nice rig with a phase change cooled 5960x in it. I did lots of reading and prep work to make aure I had everything insulated and done right.

After about 45 days of running with no issues I started having issues... blue screens, hard chrashean dead dimm slots etc... I tried several things but never could get it to normal, even at stock settings.

Today I finally had time to tear it down and this is what I saw.




I had heavily insulated with kneaded eraser on the front and back of the board, dielectric grease in the socketn with paper towels and armaflex over and around the socket front and back.

Im not complaining, becase I knew the risk going inn but it does suck to loose $1500 worth of equipment.

Be warned, stuff does happen!
Have you cleaned and tested the chip to see if it is really broken? Could possibly just be the motherboard, since its completely useless because no one will try to fix those pins.
 
#6 ·
That sucks!

Try to wash the components, dry them out really well and see if you can get them back up running.

When I built my chill-box air conditioner chiller. The inside of the chillbox never came up above freezing (32f) even during the off period at night, this prevented any moisture to build up.

I did have leaks in my chillbox due to poor construction, because it was for a test only, however I noticed that the small amount of frost that formed concentrated it self on the radiator that was cooling the inside air, and the rest of the components remained dry and clean.

I think the problem with insulation is that its hard to be 100% no matter what you do, the thermal cycling of the components will create low and high temperature areas, that will lower and raise the pressure around them, and I think it acts like a slow air pump that pulls humid air and traps it inside, and with each cycle more and more moisture accumulates.

I think people put some type of di-electric grease right in to the socket, you have to read up on this because I never done it before.


 
#11 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOPOKE View Post

puke.gif
That has me worried about mine now. I'm not running that extreme (HC500A chiller) but I did the same prep as you minus the eraser. Used Vaseline on the board.. damn
puke.gif
I wouldn't be to worried, I know several peple who never have had issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by malzmidx View Post

Have you cleaned and tested the chip to see if it is really broken? Could possibly just be the motherboard, since its completely useless because no one will try to fix those pins.
I cleaned it pretty well last night and there were some pins so oxidized that I don't think they can be rebent without breaking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by frjoethesecond View Post

What is that? Looks like mold.
Its oxidation
Quote:
Originally Posted by malzmidx View Post

Some kind of oxidation I would assume? Due to moisture getting inside from the phase change.
YUP!
Quote:
Originally Posted by [ShowMe!] View Post

That sucks!

Try to wash the components, dry them out really well and see if you can get them back up running.

When I built my chill-box air conditioner chiller. The inside of the chillbox never came up above freezing (32f) even during the off period at night, this prevented any moisture to build up.

I did have leaks in my chillbox due to poor construction, because it was for a test only, however I noticed that the small amount of frost that formed concentrated it self on the radiator that was cooling the inside air, and the rest of the components remained dry and clean.

I think the problem with insulation is that its hard to be 100% no matter what you do, the thermal cycling of the components will create low and high temperature areas, that will lower and raise the pressure around them, and I think it acts like a slow air pump that pulls humid air and traps it inside, and with each cycle more and more moisture accumulates.

I think people put some type of di-electric grease right in to the socket, you have to read up on this because I never done it before.


Yeah man, I had grease in the socket but apprently not enough... now I know!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwoodsNC View Post

Hate that for you.

Chill box is the way to go. Less risk of that! Got to watch the humidity and that's about it.
I live in Tennessee, we ALWAYS have humidity so it'd be a pain no matter what!
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNOE View Post

Hmmm I wonder if that would have happen if you had the grease ?
I had grease, but apparently not enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rbby258 View Post

You're suppose to really pack the socket with di-electric grease like in the pictures above.
Yeah, I've come to the conclusion that I didn't use nearly enough...
Quote:
Originally Posted by conwa View Post

It looks like the cpu is not damaged.. Try it with another mobo!
I wont have another motherboard for a bit, I'll get some better pictures this afternoon so you guys can really see!

Thanks for all the words, It sucks, but I knew the risk!
 
#12 ·
Pin Rot
frown.gif


Use it as a learning experience - at least it looks like you can clean up the CPU and just swap the mobo and be back up and running!

Sub Ambient 24/7 takes a lot of preparation, stuff like that happens. I almost killed a brand new 1 month old 7970 when the bolts on my block started condensing and dripped onto the back of it. Had the bottom and everything insulated awesome, but the through bolts got cold enough to condense. Was getting BSOD's and graphical errors that I thought was the OC, but when I shut it down to clean the card I noticed a damp green spot on the back of it around the resistors. Cleaned up the oxidation on the card and I am still using it today almost 2 years later.

Get her back up and keep on chugging
thumb.gif
 
#14 ·
I run a single stage all the time and I bench with a 3 stage cascade and i haven't had anymore problems since I started greasing the socket I spray with silcon grease then I pack the socket with di- electrice grease. Unfortunately I learned all this the hard way after 2 Fd up MOB
 
#16 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by GIVEitUP View Post

I run a single stage all the time and I bench with a 3 stage cascade and i haven't had anymore problems since I started greasing the socket I spray with silcon grease then I pack the socket with di- electrice grease. Unfortunately I learned all this the hard way after 2 Fd up MOB
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoL View Post

Seems like you've got good advice.
You really need to pack that socket.
Yup... Now I have to decide what board I'm gonna get to replace this one... Was thinking RVE For the control when benching, but I'm not so sure i wanna drop that coin.
 
#19 ·
Turned my 750D into a chill box. I think you should consider the same thing. I know my setup does not look like a queen but I have always been a function over form type of guy.

Chiller is set at 46 degrees F


















My 850 seasonic died and is on RMA trip







not any fear until 36F

 
#22 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by GIVEitUP View Post

I'm going for the RVE as soon as I sell my 2 4930k's
yeah I'd love the RVE, but I think I'll save some money and get another deluxe.. I'm just praying that my chip isn't fried... I know it works, because I could power the system on, but I'm worried about the corrosion on the CPU contacts
 
#23 ·
What's

Quote:
Originally Posted by [ShowMe!] View Post

That sucks!

Try to wash the components, dry them out really well and see if you can get them back up running.

When I built my chill-box air conditioner chiller. The inside of the chillbox never came up above freezing (32f) even during the off period at night, this prevented any moisture to build up.

I did have leaks in my chillbox due to poor construction, because it was for a test only, however I noticed that the small amount of frost that formed concentrated it self on the radiator that was cooling the inside air, and the rest of the components remained dry and clean.

I think the problem with insulation is that its hard to be 100% no matter what you do, the thermal cycling of the components will create low and high temperature areas, that will lower and raise the pressure around them, and I think it acts like a slow air pump that pulls humid air and traps it inside, and with each cycle more and more moisture accumulates.

I think people put some type of di-electric grease right in to the socket, you have to read up on this because I never done it before.


What's the gloppy stuff? It looks like my CPU after I embedded it in silicone, except yours isn't plugged into the socket(!)

If it's dielectric, wouldn't that cause insulation between the pin and the socket?

I sealed my CPU and waterblock airtight under the rubber, figuring that the only water condensing would be what's there already. I don;t know if that's valid. But it doesn;t take much silicone to prevent ALL external condensation. It shapes itself to the bottom of the waterblock and whatever lives under the socket. It also peels off when you want. I'd use that instead of eraser.

-faith
 
#24 ·
Munney:

What IS that stuff? Don't wash it with water, use electronic parts cleaner. It evaporates completely, and fast. If water gets into the CPU package, it won;t evaporate.

> I'm worried about the corrosion on the CPU contacts

Well don't worry about it. It's not corrosion (a reaction that destroys the metal on the pins). Those contacts are gold, nonreactive. Immortal. It's something else accreted on the pins--something you can wash off.

-helpful faye [curtsies]
 
#25 ·
Sorry to hear about this MunneY! I have not had my socket look like that before, really strange, and I don't pack my socket with grease either, just eraser and electrical tape to keep the eraser from getting all into the caps and stuff. I hope that you can get your rig back up and running again soon!!
 
#26 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwoodsNC View Post

Turned my 750D into a chill box. I think you should consider the same thing. I know my setup does not look like a queen but I have always been a function over form type of guy.
Chiller is set at 46 degrees F


























My 850 seasonic died and is on RMA trip









not any fear until 36F


This is exactly what I want to do with a build. How have you set it up to remove humidity? Are you running a dehumidifier intake into the case or are you running a dehumidifier on the inside using fans to circulate air through it. Or how have you done it? Do you have a build log.
 
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