Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › my new raijintek Triton AIO Water Cooling Solution
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

my new raijintek Triton AIO Water Cooling Solution - Page 35

post #341 of 533
I also plan to get the DCP 2.2 pump and integrate it into the loop. But first a few things that got me worrying :

1. Microbubbles. Its been two weeks since i have flushed out the loop, expanded it and put in fresh coolant. But i still have microbubbles in some areas of the tubing and also some small amounts inside my waterblock. Does this mean it needs further bleeding out ? Should i try adding some dishwasher fluid? Or is this nothing to be too worried about?

2. Large pocket of air at the highest part of the loop when turned off. This was already the case with the default out of the box Triton. I was hoping i could get rid of this after refilling the loop with new coolant. I even tried topping of the reservoir untill it was completely full and overflowing, but the pocket was still there. I then drained some of the coolant so the reservoir was back to the recommended level. I tried bleeding out the air as best as i could untill there where no more bubbles visible (except for the micro bubbles mentionned before). But the air pocket still remains to this day. Ive tried every tip i could find.

As i said my next step is to add another 240mm radiator and an extra pump to the loop. But before i start with that i would like it if somebody could give me some advice on these problems.

P.S. : I realize getting a full custom loop would be allot easier, cheaper and efficient, but the reason i am sticking with the Triton based loop is because of the space restrictions inside the case i am using. I really dont have a lot of room to work with, and the reason why i like the Triton block is because it saves up a lot of space by placing reservoir, cpu block and pump into a single area.

Greets.
Edited by corrosion666 - 9/16/15 at 3:07am
Destiny Impulse
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I5 4960K  Asus Maximus VII Impact Gainward GeForce® GTX 970 Phantom Kingston HyperX  
Hard DriveCoolingOSPower
SAMSUNG 850 EVO SERIES Raijintek Triton Windows 10.0 Corsair 850RM  
Case
Corsair Carbide Air 240 
  hide details  
Reply
Destiny Impulse
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I5 4960K  Asus Maximus VII Impact Gainward GeForce® GTX 970 Phantom Kingston HyperX  
Hard DriveCoolingOSPower
SAMSUNG 850 EVO SERIES Raijintek Triton Windows 10.0 Corsair 850RM  
Case
Corsair Carbide Air 240 
  hide details  
Reply
post #342 of 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by corrosion666 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I also plan to get the DCP 2.2 pump and integrate it into the loop. But first a few things that got me worrying :

1. Microbubbles. Its been two weeks since i have flushed out the loop, expanded it and put in fresh coolant. But i still have microbubbles in some areas of the tubing and also some small amounts inside my waterblock. Does this mean it needs further bleeding out ? Should i try adding some dishwasher fluid? Or is this nothing to be too worried about?

2. Large pocket of air at the highest part of the loop when turned off. This was already the case with the default out of the box Triton. I was hoping i could get rid of this after refilling the loop with new coolant. I even tried topping of the reservoir untill it was completely full and overflowing, but the pocket was still there. I then drained some of the coolant so the reservoir was back to the recommended level. I tried bleeding out the air as best as i could untill there where no more bubbles visible (except for the micro bubbles mentionned before). But the air pocket still remains to this day. Ive tried every tip i could find.

As i said my next step is to add another 240mm radiator and an extra pump to the loop. But before i start with that i would like it if somebody could give me some advice on these problems.

P.S. : I realize getting a full custom loop would be allot easier, cheaper and efficient, but the reason i am sticking with the Triton based loop is because of the space restrictions inside the case i am using. I really dont have a lot of room to work with, and the reason why i like the Triton block is because it saves up a lot of space by placing reservoir, cpu block and pump into a single area.

Greets.
Mine's been that way ever since I added a 290 to it. Doesn't hurt anything!
post #343 of 533
Alright guys. I got the Rev 2 block a few days ago because one of the LEDs blew and wont light up anymore. (There was also a sign of a leak!). I flipped raijintek a email and it was fast and simple. Whole thing completed in roughly 1 week including shipping from Taiwan. Just something I think you guys might like.













First few images above show just how the new block came to me. DHL packaging. Thermis EVO box (Thought I got something different). and lots of packaging material and tape to prevent Gorillas. First things I noticed off the bat was that the pump cable was extremely longer. Upon closer inspection, the bottom of the block has changed in terms of shape (nothing different to change the function or impact performance). The fill port is now higher than the original (you'll see when I compare both blocks) and thats about all the noticable changes.



Preparations. When I took off the fittings, they were like. Rock hard. It is TIGHT. Be careful when taking it off, my fingers are in a bit of pain right now.







Ok Heres the comparisons and the changes. Basically sums up everything that was visually different. nuff said. When I did my loop bleeding, the flow of the water was noticably different. The Rev 2 block seems to have a slightly faster flow for some reason. Maybe my eyes deceive me but this is purely what I saw. The bubbles in the tubing moved faster while bleeding.



Remember to remove that sticker!












Took one for the team and took apart some of the block. These were the microchannels in the Rev 1 block. Maybe my luck is terrible and my channels were poorly milled. I had a part that looked like it had gunk in it but its actually not. The "gunk" was actually just poorly milled channels. Those were the parts that were like cut but then broken off, leaving parts of the channel to look like it had gunk. Few O-rings inside the block and an image of the block that was leaking.

TLDR: Nothing much changed on the outside? Inside I don't know yet.
White Dragon
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4790K Asus Maximus VII Hero GTX 780 DCUII G.Skill TridentX 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
Seagate Barracuda Samsung 850 EVO Raijintek Triton LG 24MP56 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG W1943S Logitech G710+ Corsair CX750M Corsair 760T 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G502 SteelSeries Tyloo Loghtech Z506 CoolerMaster Pulse-R 
  hide details  
Reply
White Dragon
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4790K Asus Maximus VII Hero GTX 780 DCUII G.Skill TridentX 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
Seagate Barracuda Samsung 850 EVO Raijintek Triton LG 24MP56 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG W1943S Logitech G710+ Corsair CX750M Corsair 760T 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G502 SteelSeries Tyloo Loghtech Z506 CoolerMaster Pulse-R 
  hide details  
Reply
post #344 of 533
Quick question guys, if anyone knows.

Which port on the block is the intake? The left or the right?
post #345 of 533
Left port is intake, right port is output, (atleast on my setup).
Edited by corrosion666 - 9/21/15 at 5:07am
Destiny Impulse
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I5 4960K  Asus Maximus VII Impact Gainward GeForce® GTX 970 Phantom Kingston HyperX  
Hard DriveCoolingOSPower
SAMSUNG 850 EVO SERIES Raijintek Triton Windows 10.0 Corsair 850RM  
Case
Corsair Carbide Air 240 
  hide details  
Reply
Destiny Impulse
(9 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I5 4960K  Asus Maximus VII Impact Gainward GeForce® GTX 970 Phantom Kingston HyperX  
Hard DriveCoolingOSPower
SAMSUNG 850 EVO SERIES Raijintek Triton Windows 10.0 Corsair 850RM  
Case
Corsair Carbide Air 240 
  hide details  
Reply
post #346 of 533
I wonder if it would be prudent to get the Gen2 block as a matter of course, even without doing an RMA? hmmm...
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5820k MSI X99S SLI PLUS MSI GTX 1080 Ti Seahawk EK X 16GB GSKILL 2400 Ripjaw 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 EVO 750 Seagate 1TB Seagate 1TB 240GB Mushkin Chronos 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Custome water loop, EK Supremecy MX CPU Block,... Windows 10 Pro 64Bit AOC 4k U2879VF Speedlink Ultor red switched tkl keyboard 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic Snow Silent 750 Platinum Cooltek W2 upgraded to tempered glass window pa... Steelseries Rival 310 ASUS Anniversary Mousepad 
Audio
Fnatic Duel Headset 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5820k MSI X99S SLI PLUS MSI GTX 1080 Ti Seahawk EK X 16GB GSKILL 2400 Ripjaw 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 EVO 750 Seagate 1TB Seagate 1TB 240GB Mushkin Chronos 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Custome water loop, EK Supremecy MX CPU Block,... Windows 10 Pro 64Bit AOC 4k U2879VF Speedlink Ultor red switched tkl keyboard 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic Snow Silent 750 Platinum Cooltek W2 upgraded to tempered glass window pa... Steelseries Rival 310 ASUS Anniversary Mousepad 
Audio
Fnatic Duel Headset 
  hide details  
Reply
post #347 of 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by BakerMan1971 View Post

I wonder if it would be prudent to get the Gen2 block as a matter of course, even without doing an RMA? hmmm...

Maybe. From what I've seen, the temps are not that different compared to the old block. I didn't ask for RMA, i had 1 LED go out on me and I chased them for one because warranty. I can't really test because i think my coolant is so diluted, its not even working properly. SoCal weather is also very hot(I have no AC). Honestly, if you think getting the new block is a safer option for the future, find something you can pick at about the block and send an email asking for a new block. Since I have no idea how strong the pump is, I plan to extract the pump from the Gen 1 block and turn pc into a dual pump custom loop. I'll do a test once I find where to get come clear automotive coolant for the loop. Not really worth to buy too much if I'm only gonna fill it once now and then
White Dragon
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4790K Asus Maximus VII Hero GTX 780 DCUII G.Skill TridentX 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
Seagate Barracuda Samsung 850 EVO Raijintek Triton LG 24MP56 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG W1943S Logitech G710+ Corsair CX750M Corsair 760T 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G502 SteelSeries Tyloo Loghtech Z506 CoolerMaster Pulse-R 
  hide details  
Reply
White Dragon
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4790K Asus Maximus VII Hero GTX 780 DCUII G.Skill TridentX 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
Seagate Barracuda Samsung 850 EVO Raijintek Triton LG 24MP56 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG W1943S Logitech G710+ Corsair CX750M Corsair 760T 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G502 SteelSeries Tyloo Loghtech Z506 CoolerMaster Pulse-R 
  hide details  
Reply
post #348 of 533
Cheers for the reply
At the moment there is nothing wrong other than apparent evaporation of fluid over time, no signs of leaks or any other issues yet.
Wait and see I suppose I think it gets 24months warranty so I have another year, and knowing me I will have upgraded it by then smile.gif
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5820k MSI X99S SLI PLUS MSI GTX 1080 Ti Seahawk EK X 16GB GSKILL 2400 Ripjaw 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 EVO 750 Seagate 1TB Seagate 1TB 240GB Mushkin Chronos 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Custome water loop, EK Supremecy MX CPU Block,... Windows 10 Pro 64Bit AOC 4k U2879VF Speedlink Ultor red switched tkl keyboard 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic Snow Silent 750 Platinum Cooltek W2 upgraded to tempered glass window pa... Steelseries Rival 310 ASUS Anniversary Mousepad 
Audio
Fnatic Duel Headset 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5820k MSI X99S SLI PLUS MSI GTX 1080 Ti Seahawk EK X 16GB GSKILL 2400 Ripjaw 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 EVO 750 Seagate 1TB Seagate 1TB 240GB Mushkin Chronos 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Custome water loop, EK Supremecy MX CPU Block,... Windows 10 Pro 64Bit AOC 4k U2879VF Speedlink Ultor red switched tkl keyboard 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic Snow Silent 750 Platinum Cooltek W2 upgraded to tempered glass window pa... Steelseries Rival 310 ASUS Anniversary Mousepad 
Audio
Fnatic Duel Headset 
  hide details  
Reply
post #349 of 533
Anyone know what type of glue acts just like plastic and is kinda reflective yet clear? Cant seem to find a way to remove the pump from my old block.
White Dragon
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4790K Asus Maximus VII Hero GTX 780 DCUII G.Skill TridentX 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
Seagate Barracuda Samsung 850 EVO Raijintek Triton LG 24MP56 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG W1943S Logitech G710+ Corsair CX750M Corsair 760T 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G502 SteelSeries Tyloo Loghtech Z506 CoolerMaster Pulse-R 
  hide details  
Reply
White Dragon
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4790K Asus Maximus VII Hero GTX 780 DCUII G.Skill TridentX 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
Seagate Barracuda Samsung 850 EVO Raijintek Triton LG 24MP56 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG W1943S Logitech G710+ Corsair CX750M Corsair 760T 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech G502 SteelSeries Tyloo Loghtech Z506 CoolerMaster Pulse-R 
  hide details  
Reply
post #350 of 533
Does anyone know if the fittings are glued into the block? I would like to change to hard tubing and want to know if this is possible.
Ryzen 1
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Ryzen 1700 X370GT7 SAPPHIRE Radeon R9 Nano  F4-3200C14D-16GTZR 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
WD Black 7200RPM Corsair Force MP500 M.2 2280 120GB AMD Radeon SSD Radeon R7 2.5" 240GB SATA III  Water and silent. 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 LG 34UM67-P 34" Class 21:9 UltraWide IPS FreeSync  Logitech G510 CORSAIR HXi Series HX1000i 1000W 80 PLUS PLATINUM 
CaseMouse
Thermaltake Core P5 ATX Open Frame Logitech G402 
  hide details  
Reply
Ryzen 1
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Ryzen 1700 X370GT7 SAPPHIRE Radeon R9 Nano  F4-3200C14D-16GTZR 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
WD Black 7200RPM Corsair Force MP500 M.2 2280 120GB AMD Radeon SSD Radeon R7 2.5" 240GB SATA III  Water and silent. 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 LG 34UM67-P 34" Class 21:9 UltraWide IPS FreeSync  Logitech G510 CORSAIR HXi Series HX1000i 1000W 80 PLUS PLATINUM 
CaseMouse
Thermaltake Core P5 ATX Open Frame Logitech G402 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › my new raijintek Triton AIO Water Cooling Solution