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Mercury S8S is now a regular item in the Mercury line up! - Page 39

post #381 of 533
Wanted one of these AquaComputer PowerAdjust 3s for the two DC fans to control fresh demciflex filtered air into the S8S and rear chassis exhaust. Will also use the RPM signal generator off this device to feed the motherboard CPU1 fan input for the bios, its controlled autonomously via usb cable to the motherboard and will appear in the AquaSuite 6.0 software. Believe you can daisy chain a number of these units they basically add another fan/pump channel onto an Aquaero 6 if four isn’t already enough, but can be used separately as a stand-alone device without an Aquaero, and they still work with the awesome AquaSuite software, a free download from AquaComputer.

The heatsink assembly arrives with longer than needed stand offs made to mount into a front 5.25 device bay along with two other PowerAdjust units, so the obverse mounting side has a blue LED and lens to glow blue from the front of your rig. Think I’ll use the shorter stand offs that come with the Aquaero and I’ll shave down the top nubbin on the blue lens, if that is indeed a true nubbin. smile.gif




     
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post #382 of 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenPC View Post

Can anyone confirm that the 190mm max cooler height is true on the S8S? Say I have a 3mm Main Board and a drop in top with a cover plate, would 190mm fit? Or is it 190mm if your motherboard is 0mm and there is no top.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iBruce View Post

I just measured 205mm from my motherboard tray to inner surface of top window, sorry I can’t be more accurate, don’t have my mobo yet.

The S8S gunmetal mid chassis and right side rail parts just shipped from CaseLabs, be here Monday. Oh yea my build is gonna be just like Nicks. (happy dancing) smile.gif

i got 190mm from cpu to glass, no drop top.

I would say 190 is pretty accurate.

Terrible picture, but from CPU to the underside of the glass is no larger than 190mm.

Edited by NKrader - 9/24/15 at 8:57pm
     
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post #383 of 533
OK, Thanks guys. I am at 178mm so hope its ok. The drop in tops don't look that thick.
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post #384 of 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenPC View Post

OK, Thanks guys. I am at 178mm so hope its ok. The drop in tops don't look that thick.

Congratulations on your S8S, amazing decision making powers at work. I predict just as the S8 was the highest selling chassis from CL in 2014, the S8S will be the highest selling for 2015, although my crystal ball has been wrong once or twice. thumb.gif


The knurling is just everywhere on Bitspower fittings, it’s purely subjective of course (grain of salt alert), also had a couple bad experiences with the Bitspower knurls eating my hands alive so there’s that, and prefer the smooth minimalist aesthetic of the Monsoon Hardline fittings, and believe they may have been used with the CaseLabs Zeus, for CPU block, dual XRES, and GPU blocks. Although I do agree Bitspower makes the brightest white of any manufacturer, its way up around 92 brightness vs the Monsoon white hovering around 90.


Also for anyone planning a build, I would steer clear of all the Monsoon 45 and 90 rotary adaptors from a similarly bad experience, unless maybe on a radiator where you have a wide distance between inlet and outlet ports to accommodate the huge bulk of the adaptors, virtually impossible to use on a CPU block or res, they call them rotary adapters, yet two together in close proximity will only rotate so far before they collide with one another, so restricts your direction and approach while building your loop and the excessive weight of the Monsoon rotary adapters is unnecessary when smaller slimmer adapters are available from other makers like EK.


Only trying to assist others moving into their first or second water build from experience gathered from my three previous loops, not trying to give advice to advanced users (of course), those guys can use anything and achieve great results, but if you are just starting out hopefully some of this information will help you avoid some poor decisions I made when choosing fittings in the past.




Using a fastening tool is so much easier. smile.gif

     
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post #385 of 533
Good morning Welly! smile.gif

     
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post #386 of 533
I love bitspower and Monsoon fittings. Either are fantastic options. I'd probably rate Bits as my #1 and Monsoon as a close second. Everything else out there is meh in comparison to both.
post #387 of 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by XNine View Post

I love bitspower and Monsoon fittings. Either are fantastic options. I'd probably rate Bits as my #1 and Monsoon as a close second. Everything else out there is meh in comparison to both.

We all have different varying experiences, I’m only giving my own. Would also add that when beginning my first loop I was eager to find a “single manufacturer” to grab on to and proclaim them “the best” in order to simplify the mental complexity of choosing all my fittings in all subcategories. Now looking back that attempt to simplify was fairly shortsighted on my part.

Now after living with assembly and disassembly of a few water loops I don’t believe any ONE manufacture can be everything to everyone or command all subcategories, there is nothing wrong with choosing and mixing rotary adapters and compression tops and pass-throughs and hard PETG fittings from different manufacturers, they all meet G1/4 uniform standards, as long as you are happy with the matched overall aesthetic don’t be afraid to mix and match companies to make your building experience a nicer one.

That’s all I was trying to say. (places soapbox back into closet) biggrin.gif
     
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post #388 of 533
Picked up the last three EK 120mm Vardar 2200rpm PWM Extended Range fans for the S8S along with an EK 140 reservoir tube, the 2nd of four sizes EK offers, and an EK white reservoir top. Believe one of these tubes should be ideal for the emerging res mod, might have the res tube extend a full 2.5inches above the mid chassis table to feature more coolant and that sexy inner PETG anticyclonic tube (EK ROCKS), yet still not obstruct the left front intake fan to any significant degree.

I’ll place the longer tube on the new EK XRES REVO later today for pics so can get a visual of how different size tubes can look on the REVO res/top.

Settled on this fan configuration for the S8S build.

-Six EK 120mm Vardar 2200rpm PWM Extended Range - four for the EK XE 240mm radiator, one intake (forward 120mm) lower left chamber, one rear lower left chamber warm air exhaust.

-Two EK 140mm Vardar 2000rpm PWM Extended Range - both mounted in front Flex Bay with EK CE 280mm radiator. (These are still part of the EK 140mm fan recall, won’t be replaced until Oct/Nov)

-Two Sanyo Denki 9G1212M1011 120mmx38mm DC-powered industrial server fans - front left chassis unobstructed fresh intake, upper right rear chassis warm air exhaust.

Purchased six Sanyo Denki 120mmx25mm Silent S-Type 9S1212M4011 for the S8S build before discovering the amazing new all-black Vardar 120 ER PWMs. Will sleeve and utilize those six in the Mercury S8 test bench, since its job is to “catch - all” the extra parts. The four Sanyos currently in the test bench will be shelved, 3years of service life with them, still not a single hiccup.

Anyone need a new Sanyo Denki 9G1212M1011 120mmx38mm thick industrial server badboy? Never been used, needs sleeving. PS: It contains a very curious red dot of fiberglass place by the manufacturer for high speed balancing at the factory, Mouser Electronics sent it free of charge. Let me know. smile.gif







     
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post #389 of 533
I never use the fitting tool with my Monsoons. They're made well enough that I can make the connections by hand with zero pain. And should I get a stubborn one I crab for the FrogTape and wrap a bit on the collar and use that to give friction enough to gently torque on the fitting.

With hardline it's simple enough to push the ORing down a tad further, should it hang up the collar. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #390 of 533
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

I never use the fitting tool with my Monsoons. They're made well enough that I can make the connections by hand with zero pain. And should I get a stubborn one I crab for the FrogTape and wrap a bit on the collar and use that to give friction enough to gently torque on the fitting.

With hardline it's simple enough to push the ORing down a tad further, should it hang up the collar. thumb.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Yeah I've never had a problem with fittings, but I also don't torque them down super tight, just tighten with fingers till stops.
My first build I used barbs with no clamps for about two years never had a problem so I'm not to obsessive about that kinda stuff.
     
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7-7700K ASUS ROG STRIX Z270I w/TPM EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Black Edition CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 ... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
SAMSUNG 960 PRO M.2 512GB NVMe  SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 1TB NVMe ASUS External 12X Blu-Ray Writer Corsair H100i GTX 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Professional Samsung - S34E790C - 34" 21:9 Curved Screen CODE 87 - Cherry MX Green CORSAIR SF600 - 600W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Caselabs - Bullet BH2 RAZER DeathAdder Chroma Glorious PC Gaming Race 3XL Mouse Mat - 48X24" Steelseries - Arctis 7 
AudioOther
Bose Companion 2 Series III  CyberPower UPS - PR1500LCDRTXL2U - 1500w 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7-7700K ASUS ROG STRIX Z270I w/TPM EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Black Edition CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 ... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
SAMSUNG 960 PRO M.2 512GB NVMe  SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 1TB NVMe ASUS External 12X Blu-Ray Writer Corsair H100i GTX 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Professional Samsung - S34E790C - 34" 21:9 Curved Screen CODE 87 - Cherry MX Green CORSAIR SF600 - 600W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Caselabs - Bullet BH2 RAZER DeathAdder Chroma Glorious PC Gaming Race 3XL Mouse Mat - 48X24" Steelseries - Arctis 7 
AudioOther
Bose Companion 2 Series III  CyberPower UPS - PR1500LCDRTXL2U - 1500w 
  hide details  
Reply
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