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The 24/7 Sub Zero Liquid Chillbox Club - Page 63

post #621 of 787
I've retrofitted several R-12 automotive systems and have had to flush the entire system and replace the oil with PAG-100. Can something similar be done with a R-134a to R-22 conversion? I'm going to build a chiller box and already have a 12,000BTU Thermo King modular system but it uses R-134a.
Thanks.
John
post #622 of 787
Just won an auction on an Iwaki MD-40RT for my 1st pump in line, will live outside the house specs are pretty good:
(W)MD-40R(T)
Inlet/Outlet Diameter - 3/4 (19)
RPM - 3200
Max Flow GPM(LPM) - 13.7 (52)
Max Head FT(m) -21.3 (6.5)
Max Pressure PSI(mpa) - 14.22 (.09)

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2


Would think with the high volume and fairly good pressure it puts out it shouldn't struggle too much with a chilled loop with a MCP35X2 and MCP50X inside the chilled box to help it out. I expect 1-2GPM at any temp should be reasonably attainable. It's a 140 watt pump... good god it better be able to keep up lmao, might not even need the extra pumps.

Found a 12000 BTU LG 1214ER for $20.00 in pretty amazingly good condition.

Anyone happen to know how LG runs the return lines from the evap, high or low?

Thinking with that AC unit, that pump, a couple sheets of ISO Foam, a 54 quart Cooler, and some odds/ends I will have the outdoor portion complete here pretty quickly.

I really need to sort out what I am going to do for a temporary indoor solution until I buy my house next year.
Edited by tcclaviger - 1/5/16 at 11:23pm
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post #623 of 787
Thread Starter 
Hey TCC , if the iwaki doesn't give you enough flow and i would think it should with the other chillbox pumps then for the same footprint or less a couple of PMP500s would i'm sure.

Specs for the PMP500. 1x. (Put two into series + chillbox pumps would really shine).
Maximum Flow Rate: 16L/min (4.2 gal/min)
Maximum Head Pressure: 7.5m (24.6ft)
Maximum Pressure : 21.3 psi
Motor: Brushless DC
Power Consumption (at max): 32W

The larger industrial pumps don't compare as favorably with the smaller 12 vdc pumps unfortunately (the pmp500 uses 32watts vs 140watts and most likely would do same or better job), the industrial pumps often using more power - providing less pressure and take up more room. The industrial pumps do have a bit more resilience however and possibly less electrical noise. If eventually you go the 12vdc track outside of chillbox immerse them in mineral oil .. that fixes all issues i was having with them. Electrical noise gone - longevity back.

Lets hope the iwaki does the trick , if you get to 200-250 lph thats all you need at those temps.

Re that AC my advice for $20 you buy it and rip it apart and have a look lol .. doubt you will find any pics online unfortunately . The suction lines are best if they are high so your resoiver is not compromised by having piping running through the walls but its not impossible if they are low lying - you just need a rock solid job of the seal in that case.

I just sold my house .. man moving is a pain , in a inbetween place atm and this is what i'm jacking up for temperature chillbox cooling .. unfortunately not very chilly but yeah it will have to do for now as i can't put holes through windows here ;-) Its all old parts , the goal is not to spend anything to get up and running.



So i'll run 3 GTX 360s in parrallel and also use the chillbox rad with lid off for a bit .. gets me running i would think with +3 to +4c liquid temps over ambient for now. Have a few pumps lying around , 2 should hopefully do this.

The noise of running a modded A/C indoors , unless the fan is some sort of super silent one will be rather unbearable - headphone job lol. They normally have large choppy fans which doesn't help , fine if its outdoors .. I would say make your chillbox and test your build on just ambient water cooling. Throw the radiators out the window on a cold night for a trial run - free cooling on a cold night thumb.gif

Have a custom chiller coming for the new house so i can run indoors - water cooled condenser mainly so i can run quieter fans .. but yeah good things take time rolleyes.gif
Edited by Orthello - 1/6/16 at 2:26am
post #624 of 787
So I have a question, Can the Evap be placed horizontally in the reservoir? or does it have to be vertical? I am going to be soon embarking on build one of these bad boys smile.gif. However I want to do it all contained on a Wire Shelf unit, So the bottom shelf will everything aside from the reservoir then right above that the reservoir then above that will be another shelf for some Insulation material and LN2/Dice stuff. Then on top a bench table with the board and all that good stuff smile.gif.

Another question as I stated above I am not going to be building a "Chill Box" if I am correct in assuming what that is? However the club rules are misleading lol. From the ways the rules are worded I only need a water chiller to join? So I am new at this is the waterchiller a "ChillBox" or is the box you put your motherboard in the Chillbox.

I do not like the lack of view in the chillbox and this will be mainly a bench case for me (it will be used for benching mostly, some 24/7 use but not much). However since it is a Bench Rig it will also double as my benchtable for testing as well, So it will consist of a water chiller (which will be used the most) LN2 equipment as well as a regular loop, all contained in a wire shelf unit on casters.

Actually have a few more questions while I am here that have been on my mind that I am having issues finding answers too.

1. So if I plan on dedicating a waterblock to the chiller for the CPU, GPUs I am undecided (as they change so much, so if I do I would have to use Universals). Anyway my question is is there way to permanently Insulate the CPU block? I noticed that the Phase Change guys only use eraser and foam (and LET or whatever but I will nail polish the entire board front and back anyway). So would it be possible to alter a CPU block in a fashion like that, I seen a little info about using silicon I think but they didn't say much.

Basically the goal would be that I could lay down some eraser and some foam and then put on the block and done. I would of course permanently install the fittings to block and insulate them as well. I am just asking if I could insulate it to the point I could skip towels ect and make it look a little better via my insulation job. The block I was kind of considering was a Raystorm as 1, I already have it and 2 I could use the same mount backplate as my pot and mount the block in a similar way thus allowing me to quickly swap between CB/LN2/Dice.

2. The other question is how would you insulate a GPU with a full cover block?

I will most likely be back with more in between my reading. Its just hard to find answers I have been reading pretty much every thread I can find for the past week but I find alot of holes and pretty much the same stuff repeated over and over.
Edited by Cyber Locc - 1/14/16 at 7:23pm
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post #625 of 787
Thread Starter 
Hi Cyber , good to hear you are going to do a build - exciting stuff.

Yes the Evap can go either orientation - horizontal should be no problem as its the pressurized refrigerant is expanding to a gas from a liquid and undersuction (compressor) in a sense once past the capillery tube . The pressurized liquid refrigerant expands in volume regardless of orientation, eventually pulled through all the same by the compressor. There will be better words to describe it , more proper words but that's the essence of it - orientation should make no difference imho.

Shelf idea sounds great , only consideration is weight of the resoiver part on that shelf , but that's dependent on hour much liquid you will buffer etc.

Chillbox is what you put your motherboard in yes . Basically a frost free freezer lol.

Well i think you have found a loophole for entry lol , seriously if you build a 24/7 liquid chiller and do the neccessary block insulation - which won't be easy to get it running 24/7 without condensation issues i'll give you honorary entry due to the effort thumb.gif , i still think you would be better to build a chillbox if it was not for the ln2 / Dice stuff, the effort is almost similar to doing block insulation (its just on a larger scale) and then you get the benefit of faster hardware changes etc. Having done a lot of non chillbox insulation jobs particularly on cpus under negative temps , surviving past the 3-6 month mark without issues is tricky under regular use - smallest flaw in your insulation and gradually it will undo things.

Its all very well to bench , but a 24/7 setup needs to have very robust insulation - really robust.

The Ln2 / Dice stuff is the only thing that stops you from doing the chillbox really in conjunction with the chilled gpus , although you could still do that by making a seal in the chillbox lid and then mounting the pot through the chillbox - would take some work but could be done. GiveItUp used a dedicated phase change system for cpu in conjunction with a chillbox to benefit gpus so you could do a hybrid system. See through chillbox is just a sheet or two of perspex or glass at the top , doesn't have to be too hard. You can just use wood (painted and sealed) or plastic/acrylic and some insulation for the chillbox and away you go.

re question 1, it certainly doable to insulate your gpus without a chillbox , i would suggest it would make them not resellable however as its rather permanent coatings and dielectric grease needs to be used in parts etc. Closed cell foam / eraser / dielectric grease / an outer shell of some sort helps also . It can be done as i use to do this 5-6 years ago - but really its most likely easier long term to build the chillbox in my opinion. If you built the lid of the chillbox right you could use your dice / ln2 pot inserted into the lid with gasket around the pot etc to seal the lid and away you go. You would need very little if any insulation on the cpu then, particularly for dice.

Re (2) it would be much easier to insulate a universal block as it far smaller, the vrm cooling might suffer a bit vs a full cover block , that might need to be large heatsinks with good fan cooling . To fully insulate the card with a full cover block would be difficult just due to the size of it - could be done though i guess.

if you don't use Ln2 often this might be a consideration :

With a chillbox , setup the CPU block on a seperate 100% methanol loop then as an HX of sorts use a radiator dunked in a bath of dice.
Eg take the extreme cooling external to the chillbox rather than through it with it piping and blocks rather than through the lid with the pot. Methanol freezes at -96c , it would need some pumping power however. Another method of this could be do away with the radiator and pump dice cooled methanol directly to cpu block and back . This would not get a cold as straight dice via pot but would not be very far at all i would think.
Dry Ice and Methanol , good for -70c here :
http://scitation.aip.org/content/aip/journal/rsi/37/6/10.1063/1.1720334
If you did that method when you finish with the dry ice simply hook the cpu back to you main liquid loop , no need to change anything inside the chillbox.

The above is just some ideas , if you do a REALLY good job of the insulation it could be faster to just insulate the GPUs / CPUs blocks etc without chillbox. I would think though seriously the GPUs / mobos etc won't be able to be resold later so if you don't mind that then that's no issue then but with a chillbox you could easily resell your gear after use. Its another aspect if you go through a lot of hardware.

Anyway keep the questions coming and hopefully some pics in time to come thumb.gif
Edited by Orthello - 1/16/16 at 7:56am
post #626 of 787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orthello View Post

Hi Cyber , good to hear you are going to do a build - exciting stuff.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Yes the Evap can go either orientation - horizontal should be no problem as its the pressurized refrigerant is expanding to a gas from a liquid and undersuction (compressor) in a sense once past the capillery tube . The pressurized liquid refrigerant expands in volume regardless of orientation, eventually pulled through all the same by the compressor. There will be better words to describe it , more proper words but that's the essence of it - orientation should make no difference imho.

Shelf idea sounds great , only consideration is weight of the resoiver part on that shelf , but that's dependent on hour much liquid you will buffer etc.

Chillbox is what you put your motherboard in yes . Basically a frost free freezer lol.

Well i think you have found a loophole for entry lol , seriously if you build a 24/7 liquid chiller and do the neccessary block insulation - which won't be easy to get it running 24/7 without condensation issues i'll give you honorary entry due to the effort thumb.gif , i still think you would be better to build a chillbox if it was not for the ln2 / Dice stuff, the effort is almost similar to doing block insulation (its just on a larger scale) and then you get the benefit of faster hardware changes etc. Having done a lot of non chillbox insulation jobs particularly on cpus under negative temps , surviving past the 3-6 month mark without issues is tricky under regular use - smallest flaw in your insulation and gradually it will undo things.

Its all very well to bench , but a 24/7 setup needs to have very robust insulation - really robust.

The Ln2 / Dice stuff is the only thing that stops you from doing the chillbox really in conjunction with the chilled gpus , although you could still do that by making a seal in the chillbox lid and then mounting the pot through the chillbox - would take some work but could be done. GiveItUp used a dedicated phase change system for cpu in conjunction with a chillbox to benefit gpus so you could do a hybrid system. See through chillbox is just a sheet or two of perspex or glass at the top , doesn't have to be too hard. You can just use wood (painted and sealed) or plastic/acrylic and some insulation for the chillbox and away you go.



re question 1, it certainly doable to insulate your gpus without a chillbox , i would suggest it would make them not resellable however as its rather permanent coatings and dielectric grease needs to be used in parts etc. Closed cell foam / eraser / dielectric grease / an outer shell of some sort helps also . It can be done as i use to do this 5-6 years ago - but really its most likely easier long term to build the chillbox in my opinion. If you built the lid of the chillbox right you could use your dice / ln2 pot inserted into the lid with gasket around the pot etc to seal the lid and away you go. You would need very little if any insulation on the cpu then, particularly for dice.

Re (2) it would be much easier to insulate a universal block as it far smaller, the vrm cooling might suffer a bit vs a full cover block , that might need to be large heatsinks with good fan cooling . To fully insulate the card with a full cover block would be difficult just due to the size of it - could be done though i guess.

if you don't use Ln2 often this might be a consideration :

With a chillbox , setup the CPU block on a seperate 100% methanol loop then as an HX of sorts use a radiator dunked in a bath of dice.
Eg take the extreme cooling external to the chillbox rather than through it with it piping and blocks rather than through the lid with the pot. Methanol freezes at -96c , it would need some pumping power however. Another method of this could be do away with the radiator and pump dice cooled methanol directly to cpu block and back . This would not get a cold as straight dice via pot but would not be very far at all i would think.
Dry Ice and Methanol , good for -70c here :
http://scitation.aip.org/content/aip/journal/rsi/37/6/10.1063/1.1720334
If you did that method when you finish with the dry ice simply hook the cpu back to you main liquid loop , no need to change anything inside the chillbox.

The above is just some ideas , if you do a REALLY good job of the insulation it could be faster to just insulate the GPUs / CPUs blocks etc without chillbox. I would think though seriously the GPUs / mobos etc won't be able to be resold later so if you don't mind that then that's no issue then but with a chillbox you could easily resell your gear after use. Its another aspect if you go through a lot of hardware.

Anyway keep the questions coming and hopefully some pics in time to come thumb.gif

Hey thanks for the tips smile.gif. So I wanted to fill in some of the things I have figured out, and also ask a few more questions.

To the shelf, The shelve system I will be using is industrial grade (not the walmart ones smile.gif) is shelf is rated to hold up to 600lbs and the casters are rated at 1200lbs. That said not sure how much I would trust those numbers. However even with a 10 gal buffer I am only at 120 pounds cold maybe a little more but anyway still well within 600lbs smile.gif.

Ya the LN2/ Dice stuff is a concern however so is the bench, This will still be a test bench as well for testing components that are having issues. Quick access and ability to swap on the fly is a major concern. Though it will have builds on it that are semi permanent (1-3 months at a time) swapping all the time needs to be considered and a Chill box wouldn't allow that as easily.

Okay so for a CPU insulated block I had an idea that I want to run by everyone here and get input smile.gif. So the CPU block I have decided on is this
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewindercomputers_2266_582130499
There is also a silver model (sterling silver base smile.gif) although I will most likely go with full copper. I will modify a back plate, either its back plate, or a universal one (as I think they are larger). To have posts just like a LN2/Dice or Phase.

For my insulation of the block smile.gif. If you look closely most of the height of the actual block is above the mounting plate its not flush like most are, and it is semi round unlike the Supremacy Evo (I am still considering the Supremacy EVO though with some modification (Rounding the corners myself).

So the plan is to Epoxy the retention plate down to the block, use thermally insinuating silicon rubber around the bottom of plate around the base. This should seal the base and insulate all copper on the bottom, aside from the flat surface.

Top side, I am going to Epoxy the fittings down to the block they will be permanent, Ideally they will be g 1/4 male to 3/8 male adapters that will then have copper/brass supply line acting as the tube. If that wont work out due to fitting size I will go with long barbs and Tygon held with Worm Drives. I will then build a partition around the block and fill it a few inches high with Silicon rubber, this will insulate the top of the block and the fittings and some of the tube.

Top Continued I will put armaflex over the tubes down to the silicon and use silicon to fill the small gaps, and seal the armaflex in. I will then take a bigger piece of armaflex and this will go over both tubes. I will then smear a thing layer of silicon over the sides of the block to add a little more insulation as well as help secure the armaflex. I will follow this up with some epoxy on the outside to mate it to the retention plate so that it will not move. I will then heat shrink a section of the armaflex going up from the retention plate. This will just be to ensure tightness around the block. I will put sleeving over the entire tube and more heat shrink to keep it in place.

If you haven't got the idea that I am portraying it will look exactly like a phase change Evap head. In theory and during my testing I will ensure it, The only area that will frost at all is the copper flat base that will touch the CPU. If I notice frost anywhere else during testing I will tear it down and do it again until it can run for several hours frost free.

I will do the same thing with 3 universal GPU blocks, all blocks will be parallel so it will allow the sleeve to go quite far.

The board will be insulated just like with phase change minus the Dialectical grease as I do not feel that is necessary for builds that will spend a month or 2 at most on the build, There fore as with LN2 cooling the board will be full cleanable and sell able after the fact (I will still fully disclose what it was used for). Honestly it will be for all intents and purposes a quad head phase change unit smile.gif or at least it will look like one but alot cheaper.

Full discloser Ideally I would want a triple cascade Direct Die, and a water chiller for GPUs, but alas the prices of Direct Die systems are extreme, I cant justify the prices. The issue is not with things like the compressor as I know those are expensive. More so while my looking I found Evap heads and I find 100 dollar for the head semi reasonable then they want 170 for the plexi mount though, no thats just stupid.

Does anyone know a machinist that can craft custom water blocks? If I could obtain a custom made water block that resembles that of a phase change evap that would be perfect.
Edited by Cyber Locc - 1/16/16 at 9:56pm
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post #627 of 787
Thread Starter 
With the chillbox swapping hardware is not as bad as you might - especially if its been off a while. I evacuate the liquid , about 5 mins work. remove 6 bolts and pull the lid off. That's about another 3-4 mins. Then basically you're in - in under 10 mins. The real issue is making sure the air temp inside the chillbox is condusive to opening eg around room temperature and without heating via warmer liquid that could take several hours to naturally occur , if you wanted to change hardware often what you could do is simply have a ambient liquid loop to act as a heater . I never bothered as i changed hardware very seldom ~ every 3-6 months or so. I think with the right setup (eg heater loop) you could change hardware every 30 mins with the chillbox if needed , the thing about the chillbox is you would not need to do any GPU insulation so weight that saved time up against having to insulate the gpus. I guess it depends what hardware eg cpu or gpu you are going to change a lot.

Your insulation idea sounds solid. Especially the heatshrink over it all will help. Eliminate all air gaps, it sounds like your on the right path. Polystyrene is also a very good insulator and easily workable which i used back in the day - just watch terpentine around it if you consider it will dissolve it.

I would talk to a fitter / turner or similar , most should be able to drill holes in copper or use a cnc machine and then cap. I've been using a raystorm - ofcourse it needs no insulation inside the chillbox i can't be of much help here. I wouldn't go overkill on the design of the waterblock however especially if you are using a non soldered cpu as whats under that IHS is more the problem with the heat transfer. My preference is to not use a non soldered cpu but that is just my preference there. Delidding is akin to making the cpu very sensitive to movement of the water block and i found mounting issues always came up - temperature swings are huge (during pulldown mainly) running a chiller vs an ambient setup hence i think its much more of an issue with a chiller, culminating in the death of my motherboard socket via broken pins eventually with all the remounting i did with a delidded 3770k. I stick to the soldered cpus now and never had issue , they also have large IHS so that's a bonus.
Edited by Orthello - 1/17/16 at 8:56pm
post #628 of 787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orthello View Post

With the chillbox swapping hardware is not as bad as you might - especially if its been off a while. I evacuate the liquid , about 5 mins work. remove 6 bolts and pull the lid off. That's about another 3-4 mins. Then basically you're in - in under 10 mins. The real issue is making sure the air temp inside the chillbox is condusive to opening eg around room temperature and without heating via warmer liquid that could take several hours to naturally occur , if you wanted to change hardware often what you could do is simply have a ambient liquid loop to act as a heater . I never bothered as i changed hardware very seldom ~ every 3-6 months or so. I think with the right setup (eg heater loop) you could change hardware every 30 mins with the chillbox if needed , the thing about the chillbox is you would not need to do any GPU insulation so weight that saved time up against having to insulate the gpus. I guess it depends what hardware eg cpu or gpu you are going to change a lot.

Your insulation idea sounds solid. Especially the heatshrink over it all will help. Eliminate all air gaps, it sounds like your on the right path. Polystyrene is also a very good insulator and easily workable which i used back in the day - just watch terpentine around it if you consider it will dissolve it.

I would talk to a fitter / turner or similar , most should be able to drill holes in copper or use a cnc machine and then cap. I've been using a raystorm - ofcourse it needs no insulation inside the chillbox i can't be of much help here. I wouldn't go overkill on the design of the waterblock however especially if you are using a non soldered cpu as whats under that IHS is more the problem with the heat transfer. My preference is to not use a non soldered cpu but that is just my preference there. Delidding is akin to making the cpu very sensitive to movement of the water block and i found mounting issues always came up - temperature swings are huge (during pulldown mainly) running a chiller vs an ambient setup hence i think its much more of an issue with a chiller, culminating in the death of my motherboard socket via broken pins eventually with all the remounting i did with a delidded 3770k. I stick to the soldered cpus now and never had issue , they also have large IHS so that's a bonus.

Swapping parts in the chillbox is not really my concern as much as when I need to regular test and dice cool. The box would be in the way for those times.

Thanks I will look into that stuff, and ya I only use E series CPUs to bench (or pretty much at all) so soldered IHS will not be an issue.
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post #629 of 787
Well congratulations, you all killed my dreams of a quad 480 Monsta rad Thermaltake x9 cube. Really amazing builds guys, just completely changed the way I look at extreme cooling for PC's and finally the chance at some substantial GPU overclocks. The fact some of you have kept them up and running for so long as well, I got the bug. I am going to attempt this build in preperation for NVIDIA PASCAL in SLI or TRI-SLI depending how well Direct X 12 games handle frames at that point in time. I obviously still have many months before a flagship comes out, as much as I want to go for Titan X SLI like your setups the money won't all be there as soon as I would like. I work in Aerospace and am in the process of trying to find some mil spec'd sub-zero insulation for the chillbox and reservoir. Will let you know how that turns out hopefully sooner or later.

I have a few variations in mind for my build and wouldn't mind your opinions before a few buys...

First off is the Chillbox:
The mobo I was planning on is the Gigabyte SOC Champion x99 (was capable of handling LN2 at competitions and is or was holding world records for x99)an EATX board and a pain in the ass to find a tray for. The idea was to build a chillbox around a Primochill Wet Bench. Sorry if I am making some of you look this up, not sure quite how to add pics yet. It's EATX capable, can also attach a 360 rad (which i will probably use an Alphacool ut60), it has some mounting options on the side of the mobo for pumps I'd like 3 or 4 that could handle methanol, and possibly a small reservoir to help with temps. I understand acrylic is good to go at -25 and down to -40 and beyond and will be following in your footsteps and attempting a 4 layer LID. Is more than one 360 rad too much airflow? Could I run 6 fans on a rad without causing problems? Where can I go to find out how much PSI are 3 to 4 pumps in PWM mode is the maximum without blowing off the seals?

The chiller:
Hopefully some 12500 or 15000 btu in good shape, made to fit a bookshelf or metal shelving next to my desk. Some quick release options for the tubing maybe? No clue how to start insulating or even how an ac works to be honest. I could tell you almost any sized radiator that could fit in most cases including its width without modding, but this is still beyond me.

The reservoir:
I plan on buying a 5 CUBIC FT Freezer and throwing in some additional insulation inside and end up with around 30 gallons (4 CUBIC FT) of fluid ready to handle whatever I throw at it. The idea would be to keep the freezer powered off, but the amazing insulation would supplement the AC working hard to keep temps lower. Ideally it would have some way to circulate the fluid and be large enough to hold a second ac rad down the road.

I was wondering if sound insulation would be a good idea for the AC or am I just dreaming that it could run indoors at something less than 50 decibels. Mostly the reason to go watercooled with multiple radiators at low rpm.

Will post a build log later once things get rolling. Thanks for any / all feedback feeling better after finishing the thread, but not quite as confident as I'd like just yet.

Also thought one of these would be helpful, not sure if you guys have seen one.
- QDIY Professional Modders Acrylic PSU/HDD/DVD External Rack Tray

Edited:
The problems I can see with the wetbench inside the box are flow restrictions and fan coverage. Looks as if there are extra fittings to go from the top to bottom of mobo. And the radiator fan positions aren't directly onto the board.
Edited by duffm4n - 1/28/16 at 5:44am
post #630 of 787
Quote:
Originally Posted by duffm4n View Post

Well congratulations, you all killed my dreams of a quad 480 Monsta rad Thermaltake x9 cube. Really amazing builds guys, just completely changed the way I look at extreme cooling for PC's and finally the chance at some substantial GPU overclocks. The fact some of you have kept them up and running for so long as well, I got the bug. I am going to attempt this build in preperation for NVIDIA PASCAL in SLI or TRI-SLI depending how well Direct X 12 games handle frames at that point in time. I obviously still have many months before a flagship comes out, as much as I want to go for Titan X SLI like your setups the money won't all be there as soon as I would like. I work in Aerospace and am in the process of trying to find some mil spec'd sub-zero insulation for the chillbox and reservoir. Will let you know how that turns out hopefully sooner or later.

I have a few variations in mind for my build and wouldn't mind your opinions before a few buys...

First off is the Chillbox:
The mobo I was planning on is the Gigabyte SOC Champion x99 (was capable of handling LN2 at competitions and is or was holding world records for x99)an EATX board and a pain in the ass to find a tray for. The idea was to build a chillbox around a Primochill Wet Bench. Sorry if I am making some of you look this up, not sure quite how to add pics yet. It's EATX capable, can also attach a 360 rad (which i will probably use an Alphacool ut60), it has some mounting options on the side of the mobo for pumps I'd like 3 or 4 that could handle methanol, and possibly a small reservoir to help with temps. I understand acrylic is good to go at -25 and down to -40 and beyond and will be following in your footsteps and attempting a 4 layer LID. Is more than one 360 rad too much airflow? Could I run 6 fans on a rad without causing problems? Where can I go to find out how much PSI are 3 to 4 pumps in PWM mode is the maximum without blowing off the seals?

The chiller:
Hopefully some 12500 or 15000 btu in good shape, made to fit a bookshelf or metal shelving next to my desk. Some quick release options for the tubing maybe? No clue how to start insulating or even how an ac works to be honest. I could tell you almost any sized radiator that could fit in most cases including its width without modding, but this is still beyond me.

The reservoir:
I plan on buying a 5 CUBIC FT Freezer and throwing in some additional insulation inside and end up with around 30 gallons (4 CUBIC FT) of fluid ready to handle whatever I throw at it. The idea would be to keep the freezer powered off, but the amazing insulation would supplement the AC working hard to keep temps lower.

I was wondering if sound insulation would be a good idea for the AC or am I just dreaming that it could run indoors at something less than 50 decibels. Mostly the reason to go watercooled with multiple radiators at low rpm.

Will post a build log later once things get rolling. Thanks for any / all feedback feeling better after finishing the thread, but not quite as confident as I'd like just yet.

Also thought one of these would be helpful, not sure if you guys have seen one.
- QDIY Professional Modders Acrylic PSU/HDD/DVD External Rack Tray

I can answer a few questions I think, "Some quick release options for the tubing maybe?" I have also thought about this the glaring issue is insulation. So I do not think there is a way to do this depedning where you want the QDCs at if they are in the chillbox then I do not see an issue.

"I was wondering if sound insulation would be a good idea for the AC or am I just dreaming that it could run indoors at something less than 50 decibels. Mostly the reason to go watercooled with multiple radiators at low rpm." this is a dream, sound insulating does nothing when there needs to be huge gaping areas to allow for airflow. Like you said water cooling uses slow and quiet fans an AC does not., however it would just be like running an AC in your house which isn't uncommon.

Noise insulation only really works on a sealed box, the Ac unit will need to pull in mass amounts of air then Exhaust mass amounts of air therefore you will have either no walls on the front and back or have mesh panels which are not going to be able to be noise insulated. You could theoretically insulate the vibrations to reduce noise however an AC's noise isn't vibration is the extreme amount of air passing through the condenser.
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~Shadow~ V3.0
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Night Hawk
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 6960x Rampage V Extreme Black Edition Undecided x3 Undecided 
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Undecided Undecided EK Sumprecey EVO EK Sumprecey EVO 
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Undecided Undecided Windows 10 Undecided 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer Black Widow Wltimate  EVGA G2 1600w Case Labs STH10 Razer Deathadder (2013)(Modded with Blue LEDs) 
Mouse PadAudioOtherOther
Razer Goliath  Razer Electra, Corsair Vengeance 2000, Kingston... EK Vardars 140mm razer nostromos  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 5820k Evga Micro 2 X99 EVGA Superclocked + 980ti Gskill Ripjaws V 
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Up in the AIR Up in the air still.  Windows 10 XFX 850 W pro.  
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