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The 24/7 Sub Zero Liquid Chillbox Club - Page 66

post #651 of 787
There have been a few questions about reducing the noise of the whole or of just the A/C. And the good news is... It can be done, if you don't mind that it all gets a bit bulky.

In its most simplistic form, you could approach it as if you would approach reducing the noise level of a generator : a box-in-a-box-in-a-box (see picture below)

But there are more "elegant" ways op tackling noise reduction ... use the msnoise pages for inspiration .. or if you have too much money, ask them to make something for you smile.gif


Me, i'ld go for a (mini) Split Unit with a disabled/modified thermostat: have the "noisy part" outside bothering the neighbors, while the "cold part" inside just gets integrated into the chill box design.
Of course that limits the "where in the room" and the mobility. But lets be honest... if you consider chillboxes, single stage or multistage cooling designs, etc ... then portability priority is almost non-existent anyways , at best luggability is almost an option. smile.gif


post #652 of 787
Ditching the freezer idea brings me to another choice. A conventional 150qt igloo long chest run about $$120. Not even going down the Yeti or marine cooler route, $$450+ for much less storage. What would you guys suggest as far as insulating goes? Have thought of having some scrap 1/2 inch or thicker copper cleaned and retrofitted. Can't help the ambient temps as much as I like beacuse I live in central Texas. Could a 2 to 3 layer setup help with the AC working overtime?
If it comes down to it, I could always mate two 120 quarts on top of each other if "needed". Around 1200-1500 watt TDP was what I intended to cool with overvolting included. Assuming TDP will drop for next gen cards, maybe 1000-1300 would be more accurate.
post #653 of 787
Nice idea with the triple cover! No real constraints as far as size. Planning to use 1 to 2 upright metal rack shelving back to back. With lockable casters I could wheel it around the room, but that's about it.
post #654 of 787
If you are in TX , then another option -possibly as a pre-cooler stage- is to go Evaporative (swamp) cooling. smile.gif
We been through this with GiveItUP! :
post #655 of 787
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

If you are in TX , then another option -possibly as a pre-cooler stage- is to go Evaporative (swamp) cooling. smile.gif
We been through this with GiveItUP! :

Halfway there to ok'ing it with the girlfriend about the unit staying inside; slowly but surely she'll cave. I would love to keep it outside for noise but not for summer temps of 110F and up. Also not sure if the apt complex would be OK with the idea of an enclosure sitting out on patio. Those MS NOISE enclosures wouldn't be too tough to build at all with some scrap aluminum I have. My concern would be the airflow needed for something like this and will email them sometime. I'll read about GiveItUP's journey and report back hopefully with some results after the move in APRIL.
post #656 of 787
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

There have been a few questions about reducing the noise of the whole or of just the A/C. And the good news is... It can be done, if you don't mind that it all gets a bit bulky.

In its most simplistic form, you could approach it as if you would approach reducing the noise level of a generator : a box-in-a-box-in-a-box (see picture below)

But there are more "elegant" ways op tackling noise reduction ... use the msnoise pages for inspiration .. or if you have too much money, ask them to make something for you smile.gif


Me, i'ld go for a (mini) Split Unit with a disabled/modified thermostat: have the "noisy part" outside bothering the neighbors, while the "cold part" inside just gets integrated into the chill box design.
Of course that limits the "where in the room" and the mobility. But lets be honest... if you consider chillboxes, single stage or multistage cooling designs, etc ... then portability priority is almost non-existent anyways , at best luggability is almost an option. smile.gif



Mini-split units START around $800 for a 1 ton!! Little more than I was planning, but if they are easier to work with than full sized window i'll start shopping around. The reservoir will be large enough at 120-150 quarts if anything i could fit 2 3/4 ton units in easily. Don't necessarily want to sacrifice PC specs for the price of cooling; however, the option of a 2nd AC down the road would be nice. Also see some out there with R-410A which boils at -61F. thumb.gif
Edited by duffm4n - 2/2/16 at 11:39am
post #657 of 787
Quote:
Originally Posted by duffm4n View Post

Mini-split units START around $800 for a 1 ton!! Little more than I was planning, but if they are easier to work with than full sized window i'll start shopping around. The reservoir will be large enough at 120-150 quarts if anything i could fit 2 3/4 ton units in easily. Don't necessarily want to sacrifice PC specs for the price of cooling; however, the option of a 2nd AC down the road would be nice. Also see some out there with R-410A which boils at -61F. thumb.gif

How cold are you trying to get lol.

A Few things, anything over about 18000 btu is going to need 220v, also the higher the BTU the more its going to cost to run it. You realize that this thing will be running alot to keep very cold temps and that will cost alot on your power bill. Also you realize that you cant chill water to -60 lol, Coolant wise the best you can do without getting very unsafe would probably be -30ish maybe -40.

For what I have seen an 18000 btu system should put you around -30 to -35
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post #658 of 787
-25C to -40C would be ideal. Just looking for temps that seem to handle a decent GPU OC between LN2 (-100C??) and a standard (30C-60C) ambient water cool rig. If i do get to the point where they stop accepting my RMA's i'd consider warmer temperatures.thumb.gif

The only two large volt plugs that I know of are for the washer and dryer in this new apt. Don't really want to live without one or the other.wink.gif

Unless you science your way into a propelyne glycol mixture that breaks that barrier i'm going with a methanol blend.

I seriously wouldn't run the PC more than 15 hrs a week, part time college and full time work keep me plenty busy. Hopefully the reservoir is large enough it doesn't have to run more than a few times a day. I would want an AC unit that wouldn't be strained too much. So 12,000 to 18,000 btu are the ones I've been shopping around for.
post #659 of 787
Quote:
Originally Posted by duffm4n View Post

-25C to -40C would be ideal. Just looking for temps that seem to handle a decent GPU OC between LN2 (-100C??) and a standard (30C-60C) ambient water cool rig. If i do get to the point where they stop accepting my RMA's i'd consider warmer temperatures.thumb.gif

The only two large volt plugs that I know of are for the washer and dryer in this new apt. Don't really want to live without one or the other.wink.gif

Unless you science your way into a propelyne glycol mixture that breaks that barrier i'm going with a methanol blend.

I seriously wouldn't run the PC more than 15 hrs a week, part time college and full time work keep me plenty busy. Hopefully the reservoir is large enough it doesn't have to run more than a few times a day. I would want an AC unit that wouldn't be strained too much. So 12,000 to 18,000 btu are the ones I've been shopping around for.

Well if you only plan on running it for 15 hours a week then you need to go with glycol or XT1, If you dont not keep that methanol mixture under 85f it will begin to flash which means make fumes that go boom.

Propelene glycol has zero issues not freezing at -30c it just gets thicker, so its harder on your pumps however IMO if you cant run it 24/7 then losing pumps is better than blowing yourself up.

That windsheild washer fluid is also a good choice not sure its falsh point or freeze points but its safer than a methanol/water mix. for a freezing point of -40 you would need a 40/60 mix of methanol/water that mix will flash at 85f or 29c. That is not very hot, I would be a little Leary of that.
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post #660 of 787
For your post regarding this -->> "I seriously wouldn't run the PC more than 15 hrs a week"

The pumps/ac will be thermostated to some level and be turned ON when temps get to a certain point in the loop DAILY. They would also be sitting in a 24/7 air conditioned home running usually around 68 DEG. I was just saying turning the PC on to use/game on would be for a minimum and 15 hrs still sounds optimistic for a long workweek.

I am interested in alternate mixtures and a fail safe or two(methods for filling/draining the loop in an emergency) for thermostating the system, yet it was not something I have started to look into quite yet. My comment about two A/C units was really only stating that a 120-150 qt igloo chest cooler is LARGE. That it can hold 141.953 liters or 37.5 Gallons of coolant.
Edited by duffm4n - 2/2/16 at 2:23pm
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